Open Project - first visit to Neverneverfall

Got a dry moment yesterday to reacquaint myself with this, as its been a few years since took it seriously. First impressions were Noooooooooo! as it looked death.

The Slab looked like this

No real grips, futuristic like I thought, and a bit high, very high, too high? well its an open project so maybe not for someone. Also, as the slope leading in is quite steep, there was lots of patio material. I set to work  on the ground works, as this is the fun bit, none of that updown updown struggle for me.. Just giggling as I destabilized the slope and rained boulders down into the pit, proper juvenile adventure.

A Before Piccy

And Afterwards

Still lots to do but come and have  a trundle as its good fun, if a little "exciting"

Next mission is to make it possible to top out...

Fortunately there is a bomber belay

Then its clean the wall and play...

I understand that the previous post was a little vague on the location. Its below the tourist path in the back of the cereal bowl (lower tier). I'll take a better piccy next time.

Enjoy

Giveaway Project of the Month - January

This month is a departure of sorts for the giveaway's, and one that I intend to try and continue for this series. As I have stated, all my new routing type ventures for this year are being confined to ropeless adventures of the pad protected kind. Ladies and Gentlemen, I intend to Boulder.. A lot.

Now to give me a little push, and hopefully prevent me from attaching too much to any particular project, I intend to announce each one of my targets. Each month, I'll be declaring them open projects, for you lot to join in the fun. If I clean it, patio it, chalk it, and you get it. Well Horaah you. As only two or so of my giveaways have been snapped up over the years I'm hardly quaking in my boots. However, It'd be nice to have some company.

To maintain the spice, I'm also aiming high. The Beast in Me was a project I really thought was beyond me, and consequently, the journey was amazingly rewarding. Therefore, the proposed twelve open projects will be also suitably futuristic.

Ah. Suddenly realized I've set myself quite a big task. So I'd better get searching...

Open Project No. 1

The Neverneverland Highball

Just below and right of centre is a blank rippled and crystally slab. I'd originally considered it shortly after I did My Secret Garden, but passed it by as it looked to hard (how would you clip?) and short to be worthwhile as a sport route. But If a patio is possible (I am after all a dab hand with a spade) then it could be a really accessible and fun adventure, and close enough to Suncharm Ledge to attract traffic. So The Game is highball, so no bolts please. Watch for updates.

Enjoy

First Pootle of the Year

I got out for a bit of a wander yesterday...
I have declared that this year will be the year of the classic, the year of the repeat, and in general, a year of reducing the new routing obsession that has signified previous years.
To prevent complete cold turkey I am allowing myself to pursue new boulder problems, as long as I do more established boulder problems than new ones (something I struggle with).

So obviously the first thing I do is go bushwacking for new stones...
Arse end of penllyn Padarn, Tick! one nice boulder to revisit.
Depths of the seiont river, No tick but a nice ramble over abandoned railway workings.

I then broke for some socialising at the Beacon, and managed to ascend Pete Robins new red route in the routing roof. Pleased with this as its classic ledge shuffling and 3D thinking. Suitably psyched I drove off to Benllech and found a new path to the shuffling cave. This is a former Giveaway of the month and something I'm keen to get done so watch this space. I then came over all Hillebrandt and started bouldering a section in my wellies. Needless to say, wellies are fine for big barnicle slopers and chimneying, but once I was 20ft up above the boulders, their ability on wet little edges came into doubt. Some furious reversing returned me to the ground, and a return match has been booked.

Watch this space....

Giveaway Project of the Month, and 2013's Giveaway list!

Right, a good year was had; The last 2 personal projects were sent, (Big Bad Bari and The Beast in Me) and all others have been given away.... On the negative side, concentrating on these has probably reduce my climbing time this year to an all time dribble, but that means that 2014 can be all about getting out, enjoying repeats and reducing obsession... a bit.
However, If you are too slack I might have to revisit some of these Giveaways... Speaking of which:

This little buttress is between Crib Goch and Crib y Ddysgl, and boasts a "fear of infection" style pitch just left of centre of the photo. Mountaineering in approach (especially this time of year) but a stout pitch nonetheless. There seem to be many single pitch possibilities on this crag, so maybe a leisurely visit is in order...

This Years other Giveaways

November

http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/giveaway-project-of-month-november.html

Red wall Promontory Trad Action

October

http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/10/giveaway-project-of-month-october.html

Mordor groove slate sport potential

September

http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/09/giveaway-project-of-month-september.html

Lost world slate slab.. May have sprung bolts already so hold back for news...

August

http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/08/giveaway-project-of-month-august.html

Dinas Mot Trad arete

July

http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/getting-out-and-giveaway-project-of.html

Cwm Uchaf Highball Craglet

June

http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/giveaway-of-month-june.html

The Upper boulder field of Dyffryn Mymbyr

May

http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/05/giveaway-project-of-month-may.html

The Thin slate crack of Heavens cutting

April

http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/04/big-bad-bari-lives-giveaway-project-of.html

The Boulder keel next to Big Bad Bari

March

http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/giveaway-project-of-month-march.html

The multi pitch dolerite vein of Scrag End

February

http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/giveaway-project-of-month-feburary.html

Scrag end slate sport project

January

http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/giveaway-project-of-month-january.html

The overhanging slate wall sport project of Vilca Pampa

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Enjoy!

Giveaway Project of the Month - November

Well as I've just been there and have now done the research, it seems fitting that this months giveaway is on the Red Wall Promontory:

I spent a happy afternoon traversing the base here. Into the light looks really nice and has the appearance of a nice VS... The groove I intended to use as an alternative to jugging the ropes (below the n of Promontory) turns out to be a well protected E4.. Its clear that appearances can be deceptive on the promontory.

There are a few variations of Into the light that probably aren't worth a separate name, but might amuse some on a sunny day, they involve a hand crack in a deep groove and a hanging fin. However, this months giveaway is the entire Righthand Red wall side of the Promontory! A tad generous I grant you, but its almost overhanging enough to DWS and festooned with Jug "like" holds. The rock on the Promontory is good, more Holyhead Mountain than Red Walls, and unlike the slabby side, it has plenty of cracks for gear. I can only imagine the slight inconvenience of access is the reason it remains clear of routes thus far.

Enjoy

Hat's out, all out

Hat came out of the box today, Two weeks later than the last year, due to warmth and wetness. Today was sunny and crisp, and I wasn't at work.. HOORAY!!! I was given strict instructions by my lovely wife to go out and have fun, and as luck would have it.. I did.

Messrs Caffity and Cal were having a crack at some hard thing on the red walls promontory, Woo was along as lensman, and I was invited as general chummer company and passenger.

The sun was balmy, the rock solid, the project nails. I enjoyed traversing back and forth along the lower fringes of the promontory, soaking rays and spotting lines (more research needed) as Caff looked for handholds (small) and footholds (poor). There was even some insitu gear (rusty). Cal had a play on top rope and then they thought they'ed let the passenger have a go. Blow me, I even managed to climb some of it....

Anyhoo, Caff then dispatched it with minimal fuss and the long jug back to red walls began, tiring for someone who's only trained for trying hard over a max of 10 meters. The real treat was that Caff pottered up Anarchist in his trainers dragging a rope, and therefore I got to experience red wall for the first time ( I know, I've a lot of non quarry experience to catch up on..) By Light house and sunset, up an amazingly enjoyable, interesting and a little adventurous route.

Yes I need to get out more, and I think I will.

happy place

Giveaway Project of the Month - October

With the Beast now a reality, who want's the animal next door?

You'll probably be more on the arete than the groove, but the rocks good, and the neighbors are nice..

This is very useful for cleaning slate projects

Enjoy