Thursday, 23 January 2014

Open Project - first visit to Neverneverfall

Got a dry moment yesterday to reacquaint myself with this, as its been a few years since took it seriously. First impressions were Noooooooooo! as it looked death.

The Slab looked like this
No real grips, futuristic like I thought, and a bit high, very high, too high? well its an open project so maybe not for someone. Also, as the slope leading in is quite steep, there was lots of patio material. I set to work  on the ground works, as this is the fun bit, none of that updown updown struggle for me.. Just giggling as I destabilized the slope and rained boulders down into the pit, proper juvenile adventure.

A Before Piccy

And Afterwards

Still lots to do but come and have  a trundle as its good fun, if a little "exciting"

Next mission is to make it possible to top out...

Fortunately there is a bomber belay

Then its clean the wall and play...
I understand that the previous post was a little vague on the location. Its below the tourist path in the back of the cereal bowl (lower tier). I'll take a better piccy next time.


Tuesday, 21 January 2014

Giveaway Project of the Month - January

This month is a departure of sorts for the giveaway's, and one that I intend to try and continue for this series. As I have stated, all my new routing type ventures for this year are being confined to ropeless adventures of the pad protected kind. Ladies and Gentlemen, I intend to Boulder.. A lot.

Now to give me a little push, and hopefully prevent me from attaching too much to any particular project, I intend to announce each one of my targets. Each month, I'll be declaring them open projects, for you lot to join in the fun. If I clean it, patio it, chalk it, and you get it. Well Horaah you. As only two or so of my giveaways have been snapped up over the years I'm hardly quaking in my boots. However, It'd be nice to have some company.

To maintain the spice, I'm also aiming high. The Beast in Me was a project I really thought was beyond me, and consequently, the journey was amazingly rewarding. Therefore, the proposed twelve open projects will be also suitably futuristic.

Ah. Suddenly realized I've set myself quite a big task. So I'd better get searching...

Open Project No. 1

The Neverneverland Highball
Just below and right of centre is a blank rippled and crystally slab. I'd originally considered it shortly after I did My Secret Garden, but passed it by as it looked to hard (how would you clip?) and short to be worthwhile as a sport route. But If a patio is possible (I am after all a dab hand with a spade) then it could be a really accessible and fun adventure, and close enough to Suncharm Ledge to attract traffic. So The Game is highball, so no bolts please. Watch for updates.


Friday, 3 January 2014

First Pootle of the Year

I got out for a bit of a wander yesterday...
I have declared that this year will be the year of the classic, the year of the repeat, and in general, a year of reducing the new routing obsession that has signified previous years.
To prevent complete cold turkey I am allowing myself to pursue new boulder problems, as long as I do more established boulder problems than new ones (something I struggle with).

So obviously the first thing I do is go bushwacking for new stones...
Arse end of penllyn Padarn, Tick! one nice boulder to revisit.
Depths of the seiont river, No tick but a nice ramble over abandoned railway workings.

I then broke for some socialising at the Beacon, and managed to ascend Pete Robins new red route in the routing roof. Pleased with this as its classic ledge shuffling and 3D thinking. Suitably psyched I drove off to Benllech and found a new path to the shuffling cave. This is a former Giveaway of the month and something I'm keen to get done so watch this space. I then came over all Hillebrandt and started bouldering a section in my wellies. Needless to say, wellies are fine for big barnicle slopers and chimneying, but once I was 20ft up above the boulders, their ability on wet little edges came into doubt. Some furious reversing returned me to the ground, and a return match has been booked.

Watch this space....