Thursday, 28 July 2011

(personally) Significant Repeats!

Liquid Armbar got its 2nd and 3rd Ascent this week from Mssrs Randall and Whittaker who both led, and confirmed its grade and quality. This brings the number of my routes that (to my knowledge) have had more than 1 repeat up to 5!

First a giveaway being taken up and then this within the same month!

Heady times indeed

Wednesday, 20 July 2011

Giveaway Project of the Month - July

Flushed with the success of a project being taken to completion, This month see's some thing a bit different.

You see most of these giveaways are surplus bounty, that would require a divorce and a gratis boarding school for me to complete in their entirity.

This month its something I'm quite keen (and Able) to do

Some of my more dangerous stalkers may remember this

Now The last winter has done its work and the Offwidth in question is prime for a quick abb, lever, brush and garden..

...then it would be ready.

Now I'm focussing on the Beast, I'm quite happy for it to go to a loving home.

Back left of the bay on the far right, once clean (or go au natural for the XS tick) approach by the Liquid Armbar Abb. At the Belay continue abbing to the base of the gully on the left looking in. Belay here. From here it will be 10m of easy slab and crack, followed by 30m of vert to overhanging snaking 7inches to body swallower.

Maybe if you were in the area Filming?

Sunday, 17 July 2011

The Gestation of an Elephant..

I have just had the chance to give a final read through to a full paper copy of the Llanberis Slate Guide.
Once more dilligent and awake fellows have done the same.....

The Printers Beckons!

Friday, 15 July 2011

Repeatedly banging your head against a wall..

..Occaisionally knocks through at least a small hole!
The First of My Giveaway Projects has been completed.. Sort of.

Yes Black Hole Sun climbs the left arete rather than the Groove, as part of a bigger route.

But after a flurry of texts regarding the influence of the Giveaway, I received the text:

"Hmm go on then. Ian says thanks for the inspiration"

Nuff Said

Get on the Giveaways
Every one a winner... Sort of.

Thursday, 14 July 2011

Tales of the Golden Monkey

Last evening was at last a chance to mainline some adventure. Adventure, like fire needs 3 main ingredients: A suitable band of adventurers, Suitable weather, and a suitable target.

The weather was warm and dry, Fraser Ball; father to wads, and cracker of obscene jokes was on hand to hold the ropes and destroy my belays, and at last I was revisiting Here.

With Fraser along I could approach the right Eye direct this time (this line was a bit damp last visit) and once through the tunnel we could tackle this:

This was another one of my "probably HVS" projects (the last one was Taith Mawr) that I thought would be a suitable jolly for me and Fraser. It turned out (as usual) to be a bit exciting and tricky. Proper good value, all in all. The sort of thinky, scary, body achey climbing I enjoy. Unlike the Midges that the humid evening invited out to eat us, reppellant left in the bags.....

Ho Hum, Here's the full Description of sorts:

Tales of the Golden Monkey E2 4c, 5c. 20m, 30m.

Named after This, But My memory prefered the cadence of golden to gold.

1. 20m 4c. Start Golgotha side right of the mouth of the skull. Scramble then climb dirct in to the right eye socket.

Follow the tunnel to the Twll Mawr side.

2. 30m 5c. Exit left looking out to find the groove round the corner. Climb this on small to diddy gear with much head scratching and muttering to a ledge, where a continuation groove above (staggered right) spits you out onto the tourist path.

Mark Dicken, Fraser Ball (13/7/11)

Friday, 8 July 2011

The Beast Abides - Diary of annoyance

Sunday - My Climbing partner bails, as in his enthusiasm he forgot he hadn't checked in with the missus since 3 weeks of glastonbury odd jobs. Last minute trip to the cromlech boulders for the company, and pulled on a weekends worth of smeggy chalk.

Monday - Bought the kids a new ball which is less sqidgy. One hand on one hand off is harder, but both hands on is easier. Beginning to be able to hop.

Tuesday - Got the block down to 1 min 45 secs. Still feel weak so must move on to something else..

Wednesday - inverted squats. The Wyde boys are due for a tour and my foot is still niggling. The Offwidth volume at work is put to good use as an venue for foot jam physio / torture.

Thursday - Logan woke at five, next door's building work during the day prevented much cat napping, and tea to keep me from killing the kids, and their teething meant a 1am finish.

Friday - Set some nice boulders at the wall, Saw Ian's been busy in Twll Mawr. Excited to try it but feeling a bit territorial. It doesn't take much to make a tired 36 yr old act like a todddler.
Good on him, hope he gets the grooves to the right done too.. and maybe leaves me some trad..

Here's to dry days and the time to enjoy them