Friday, 23 April 2010

Giveaway Project of the Month - April

Due to my current Obsessing, I'd better giveaway wholesale, an unclimbed quarry I've just noseyed around.

Type this into Google maps


The Positives
totally untouched
Good quality rock
Interesting approach
undercut leaning flake line
overhanging peapod with pro
cute blunt arete/groove feature

The negatives
may harbour mosquitoes
some loose rock
ring fenced within a soon to be busy industrial estate.... Maybe

Things I have noticed

Whilst sussing the Moves on Jammerock

G Mawr can take a pretty good piccy.

boulder problems don't have to look great to climb great.

I haven't Properly jammed in a while..

Whilst having a constitutional at Mancer Quarry

They're improving the roads within Glyn Rhonwy.

Construction workers don't seem to have great peripheral vision.

My abandoned abb rope is gone from Liquid Armbar (Kids, Council or an attempted ascent?)

I'm still obsessing about potential new routes.

Friday, 16 April 2010

The Joy of Self Sandbagging

Yesterday I was captured from my ordinary week and given the rarest of gifts, The opportunity to introduce new friends to some old ones..

Yep, we got to feed the Brutaliser..

On a rare excurison to England, Alex the Hoff and I took a jaunt to Brimham Rocks, home to a plethora of lovely wide cracks and this benign E3 in particular. Much fun was had, warming up on Desperation Crack, before seiging Bog Crack, and moving down here for a spot of yoyoing. There was not a little blood loss, Particularly from Lord Bertram, who became enamoured by Charming Crack and fed her small morsels of his own flesh. We then tried to feed the Brutaliser a small maiden, but she got spat out...

All In All, much fun was had, woes and cares were draped on the jaws of these noble beasts, and some small victory was shared.

However, the rock always wins, and we now all ache in fundamental ways. I think We'll be back.. (maybe when the Owl leaves Giggling crack?)

Thanks guys for taking me away!

Monday, 12 April 2010

Suncharm Ledge goes public

The news you've all been waiting for...

I.e. We've mopped up all the easy lines and its all yours.

SunCharm Ledge offers a crisp smooth quarried Dolerite Wall, with 4m of highball fun, and a heathery patch to plonk your pads

Calum M and I went down here on Saturday with a pad each and this 2pads + spotter set up Seemed to work really well

Its a traverse off left to get down, The Suncharmer being from a little higher, as can Rhinoplasty if you want too..

1. Flock of flying Butt Monkey's V1 tackles the flying arete on the left.

2. The Groove of Smooth V3 is the flying groove entered from the left

3. Maurice Chevalier V3 the central arete

4. Observation groove V0- the easy central corner

5. Sunshine Swing V4/5 The impressive right arete taken via left side and rock onto ledge to scamper off rather than top out

6. Rhinoplasty V5/6 the right arete taken head on to finish as for SS

7. The Suncharmer V3 the ltr girdle to the proper highball finish

Calum got 5 & 6, the rest yours truly

Just the blank right wall to go..

To Get to Suncharm Ledge:

1.Follow the tourist path from bus stop to Twll Mawr

2. Hop over the right fence, scamper to the hut and look over the edge

3. Take the obvious scramble down to Suncharm ledge.