Wednesday, 27 September 2017

Enjoy the Silence

Life can get too busy. I've come to treasure the small moments of calm, even better when they coincide with a lack of rain..

The morning mist gave way to warm autumn sun, a nod from the wife and I was released back up to Marchlyn. The blog title song has become synonymous with this place for me. It was even a working title for The Big Project. However, I'm beginning to be worn down by that. If I get very strong, I can envisage myself making most of the individual moves, but linking them together seems another step up altogether. I also may have to admit my arms are too short, there is a big span I can make with my face pressed against the rock, but it would involve a massive throw to gain this.


Instead on dwelling on fading dreams, this visit was to try and nail the properly feasible projects. My opening up of the left side of the boulder, had exposed a whole new line, and made controlling the swing on the low start to Seamus less crucial. Upon arrival, I found the early morning fog, the blazing sun, and lack of breeze, had reduced the boulders friction somewhat. It was the worst conditions I had encountered up here to be honest, the usual spiky velcro friction reduced to the consistency of a drowned mouse. Chalk and lots of brushing removed some of the summers green, but the conditions made my warm ups proper battles. I'm looking forward to return here once the winter bites a bit more.

Still. I continued to enjoy the silence, a protracted and pant filling battle saw me topping out on the original Seamus in preparation for an attempt on the low start. However, it was all a bit touch and go, and when the mat was in position for the low start, the top was unprotected. That and I couldn't get off the deck.

Not wanting to leave empty handed I turned my attention to the unclimbed sitter to the left. This depended on two poor holds reached from a sitter. the first being a directional curved crimp held in a gaston, the second a hand position dependent pinch (fingers needing to be in a blind rail). unfortunately, the feet meant the slap into the pinch was a bit all or nothing.

The Cutter was about 6B+/C

I really need some company up here next time, just someone not too chatty..

Saturday, 16 September 2017

Territorial Husbandry

Thought it best I get another blog out, as I try to get back into the swing of things now schools back in. However it appears September is not playing ball. Rather than an indian summer, we seem to be getting a soggy one.

However, if you turn back at the first sign of defeat, you'll never get anywhere... And there is always something to do in North Wales.

"If You Settle for Nothing Now..."

So off I Headed into The Mizzle.

The Plan was to tidy up my Marchlyn projects so that I can Start actually ascending some. They got a brief mention in NWB, and this has spurred me into action to get the two lines I've emotionally invested in done. Okay, it should be noted that I do bang on about projects, included these fairly publicly on this blog (and at work, the pub, bus queues etc.), But seeing it in printed on the page has got me jittery..

So back to slogging through the mizzle..

It stopped, which allowed me to admire the view, and play candy crush, which took my mind off the slogging. Usefully, my slight vulnerability to addictive behavior, seems only to apply to  boring things like rocks, comics and kids games, rather than heroin.

I even got a rainbow...

Once at appropriate Altitude, I was pleased to discover a new alternative approach to my bloc (always learning), and settled down to two hours of moving things from one place to another.

The Result!

The Patio is now higher more level, and well on its way to being wider too. I've also opened out the left side of  the boulder, which has presented exciting new opportunities. My main focus is now the sit start on Seamus (the vertical seam in the foreground). It will start off the flake in the steepness below. Its merely quit hard, whereas the true sit into the Tumbleweed stand is still feeling beyond feasibility. However, whilst lugging rocks on this trip I concocted a mishmash sequence based loosely on my original fantastical plan, with just enough bits of my cop out beta to market it to my cynical creaky self.

It may even work, but I need a pilgrimage to Feidr Fw to get a training montage on. Historically this is where I beat myself fit, as I've yet to keep myself off the ouchy stuff indoors enough to sustain a serious unbroken montage.

Meanwhile...  There's nothing to see here...

Thursday, 7 September 2017

Summer Luvin' Part Two

Almost got to this before September...

As I Type, The gorgeous wifey has escaped to the climbing wall to prevent herself murdering our  tribe (or me).
The boys have had a spirited bedtime with much throwing of toys out of the proverbial pram..
All is now silent as the first week of the school term takes its toll.

However the second half of the hols was still ace!
Taking the boys to RAC boulders, Logan actually wanted to climb this with no prompting from his old man, he did some sensible climbs too. Ethan however was more into making  camps with bouldering mats.

I even got to tie a rope on. Around my birthday, Wolf dragged me out and  we went slate climbing. Its been a while, and  we settled on doing a classic neither of us had tried yet; Central Sadness. Strangely, I had no mojo to lead, its been far too long since I've lead trad, certainly since anything remotely challenging anyway, and I had no desire to get scared. Wolf cruised it, although I did get to introduce him to ballnuts and how to secure slings with tensioned skyhooks...

Next Adventure was camping at Rhoscolyn!
I can't recommend the campsite at Outdoor Alternative highly enough. All the mod cons, and once there, all the family adventure you could need just a walk away. (There's even B-Active on site if you want some new outdoor experiences, or forgot your gear...)

Mini crags to conquor

Marshmallows by the campfire

Seren admiring the Sea

Proper Bo, as Fatneck Might Say..

Most of our time was spent doing things in a wetsuit, so I hadn't taken piccies. Lots of Coasteering, getting dad nerves as my 8 yr old jumps off cliffs I wussed out of...
Also a lot of rockpooling. Theres a large pool that drains slowly as the tide falls, and for the second year a row I found it complete with a swirling shoal of hundreds of tiny blue fish. Proper special.

After recovering from this active week, I picked up My copy of the new bouldering guide. I'm certainly very chuffed at the volume of my boulders to have made the cut. I promptly photoed some pages and sped off to Pacman Boulders, which I had yet to visit. he directions made sense, although as usual I doubted and reinterpreted them on my approach attempt and ended up scrabbling a bit (I'll behave next time). I was pleasently suprised to get a few 6C's second go, and generally enjoyed myself.

All bodes well for this winter.

We even walked the boys a way up Elidir.. (looking at our tiny house)

Major event. We Bought Chickens!
Although not this mini one (yet..)

Will's Chickens is on Anglesey, and has hundreds of varieties. Will has 7 kids himself, so was happy to let our lot loose to hug a chicken.

Our 5 Girls exploring our garden.

So there you go, Summer holidays survived, all I need now is the rain to stop so I can start my Autumn Campaign!

Watch  this space.