Wednesday, 14 July 2010

Tuesday, 13 July 2010

Quick sesh

Go a couple of hours in occasional light drizzle and bagged this roof problem Gimme Shelter V5

Starts nice and dry right under the boulder on some flakes in the roof, and ends up mantling out at the end after some heel hookery. This pretty much draws my clegir development to a close.

Time to try some classics and find out how off my grading is...

Tuesday, 6 July 2010

Me Day (well, morning anyway)

The boys are now 11 days old, and Nain took Logan so I could take off for the morning and forsake my familial duties - Bliss.

Once again the crack house was my destination (soon to be fully public) and I went with Pantontino for an ego sesh; basically show and tell and some piccies. Did the last line I was keen to sire. This was Receding Hairline V4/5; a sitter on the right wall of Barred to the bone. It starts off an undercut and a flatty on the right wall and follows the general vicinity of the hairline crack (pretty obvious in the piccy). Apart from ruling out the jug high and deep inside barred, and a big foot block, It felt very non eliminate and Quite powerfull!

Very happy, I packed up the kit I'd stashed there and moved on to a new shed...

Watch this space

Monday, 5 July 2010

Giveaway Project of the Month - July

I thought I'd get this in early this month as I have a spare twenty minutes and things are pretty busy since the twins arrived. I'm very happy and tired, but the adventures are going to be mainly parental.
So its going to be quality not quantity for a bit, and this is pure Quality!

The sunny seaside town of Benllech on Ynys Mon is home to a nice beach, some sport routes and this lovely cave....
South of hidden wall, this 40ft deep cave has a nicely flared horizontal chimney running through its entire roof at head height. The rear of the cave is fairly cramped and non descript, but a couple of yards towards the light a chockstone marks a sensible starting point. From here, jamming, back-and-footing, and general squirming will get you to the light and here...
For the highball topout. There is a couple of downsides to this amazing discovery (and why I didn't snap it up when I found it)
-Tidal; needs a fairly low tide.
-Holds damp; will require a good coastal breeze, and as the crack goes all the way, some dry days. a Towel might help too.
-Landing is bouldery; probably solved by 2 mats stacked on a leash and a spotter to drag it.
There we go. Please report back.