Wednesday, 22 May 2013

Giveaway Project of the Month May

Keeping in the region of Lost World, Here's the crack of Heaven's Cutting:

Its probably about 12m high and would suit as an aid or trad project. Good hard slate but mainly in the RP1-3 range, and requires a good wind to dry. Its 2 Levels above the suspended railway on the same side. Approach either as for Lost World, or via the Coat Hut Level through Heaven's rickety shelf.


Monday, 20 May 2013

Brewing up!

More Psyche!

Today was a play day for me. Dropped Logan in school then high tailed it to Lost World to give the Beast a spring clean. The winter had done its work and loosened the wobbly bits..

All it took was a bit of work with my precision cleaning tool (Ice Axe)...

An off she peeled..

All that remained was a bit of descabbing, and giving the lower wing section a proper scrub.

Brush, Ecover cleaning spray, brush, towel, and repeat.

Now none of my piccies of the Beast seem to give a clear impression of the project, so here's a Vid:
The bench below the route is part of the flake above. Yes you can now find this beauty, but most of the thugs I know are gentleman, and The Beast is a blue collar bar brawl; complete with gouging and lots of stamping.
Once clean and dry, and I'd had a cup of tea, it was time for the first proper working session. The initial 6-8m to the eagle's nest is a right wing fest, with minimal for the left limbs to grapple with. I fondled the moves but my feebleness prevented actual movement. However, with all the footholds spied, I pressed on. Pockets and gymnastics lead to the high board, and a long long rest if I get here on lead. The newly solidified section above is hand jams and splits, to the last bolt. Funky feet and arête moves push on into the runout, which just becomes unreasonable as the jugs kick in. I made all the moves post eagles nest, and am well chuffed.

This project has every element I love in routes, and if I never do another new route after this, it will be enough.

Watch this Space.
(I need chicken wing exercises folks)

Friday, 3 May 2013

Quack Crack Bloc

Here is the Quack Crack bloc:
The central crack is Quack Crack F6B+, which goes from a sitter. The overhanging nature of this boulder, coupled with its annoying dearth of foot holds make most of the sitter's very hard indeed. I was up here again yesterday playing on a few problems and managed only one other sitter; Fat Duck Arête F6B on the left hand side starting off a pinch on the arête and a side pull for the right hand. Good boppy fun. I also did a stand start on the shield immediately left off opposing arête's. I played on both finishes (the righthand exit is best) and almost linked it from a sitter similar to fat duck arête, although a fist jam replaced the pinch. I was thinking, although fun, my jumpy moves into the standing start position was a bit eliminate, as you could just slope up the right arête. However, looking back at the pic's I think a toe hook could make going into the standing start position the more sensible method.
A couple of stander's on the left hand side; Ball's Groove F6A+ takes the obvious clean hanging groove, and starts with hands on the left arête. The Chalked crimps to the right of the groove are the start of a Fast Cars type thing - Love Battery F6C finishes out right on the nose. Linking into this from the start of Quack Crack would be the send of the Bloc.

I'm quite keen to return with a wad to tidy up some of these bits, let me know if you're up for it.