So after a few days reflection I realized someone might want to actually repeat it, so I thought I had better include a description:
The Beast in Me - Hard Very Marvelous F7+ 20m
The Offwidth groove system leaving the tunnel of the penultimate belay of Scorpion- Mordor side.
Approach by abseil, climbing Scorpion, or deathly traverse (Twll mawr Side).
Protection is bolts and a Cam#2.
Climb the bolted offwidth groove to the Eagle's nest. Rest, then boulder past the roof to the highboard. Ponder, then tech your way to the summit via a jam or two (cam), some head scratching (bolt) and some welcome jugs (a way above the bolt).
Mark Dicken 24/9/2013
The timid could reduce the run out with a fiddly wire, but they are unlikely to arrive at this point.
The Collected Saga in Posts
I guess looking back at all the nerding and noodling certain lessons could be learnt:
1) Know yourself and accept yourself. I'm not the lunatic I once was, I don't think I could have ever climbed it trad, and no one would be bothered to repeat it anyway.
2) Accept pain.
3) Refining technique and protecting your skin is a lot more valuable than dangling from a wooden box.
4) Flexibility is great, but technique and craftiness is easier.
I intend to return at some point to see if I can improve my style on the vice section, and I'd like to get some piccies as a memento, so watch this space.
“It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end.”
― Ernest Hemingway
Blankety Blank 8A
1 week ago