Wednesday, 22 May 2013

Giveaway Project of the Month May

Keeping in the region of Lost World, Here's the crack of Heaven's Cutting:



Its probably about 12m high and would suit as an aid or trad project. Good hard slate but mainly in the RP1-3 range, and requires a good wind to dry. Its 2 Levels above the suspended railway on the same side. Approach either as for Lost World, or via the Coat Hut Level through Heaven's rickety shelf.

Enjoy

Monday, 20 May 2013

Brewing up!

More Psyche!

Today was a play day for me. Dropped Logan in school then high tailed it to Lost World to give the Beast a spring clean. The winter had done its work and loosened the wobbly bits..

All it took was a bit of work with my precision cleaning tool (Ice Axe)...

An off she peeled..

All that remained was a bit of descabbing, and giving the lower wing section a proper scrub.

Brush, Ecover cleaning spray, brush, towel, and repeat.

Now none of my piccies of the Beast seem to give a clear impression of the project, so here's a Vid:
The bench below the route is part of the flake above. Yes you can now find this beauty, but most of the thugs I know are gentleman, and The Beast is a blue collar bar brawl; complete with gouging and lots of stamping.
Once clean and dry, and I'd had a cup of tea, it was time for the first proper working session. The initial 6-8m to the eagle's nest is a right wing fest, with minimal for the left limbs to grapple with. I fondled the moves but my feebleness prevented actual movement. However, with all the footholds spied, I pressed on. Pockets and gymnastics lead to the high board, and a long long rest if I get here on lead. The newly solidified section above is hand jams and splits, to the last bolt. Funky feet and arête moves push on into the runout, which just becomes unreasonable as the jugs kick in. I made all the moves post eagles nest, and am well chuffed.

This project has every element I love in routes, and if I never do another new route after this, it will be enough.

Watch this Space.
(I need chicken wing exercises folks)

Friday, 3 May 2013

Quack Crack Bloc


Here is the Quack Crack bloc:
The central crack is Quack Crack F6B+, which goes from a sitter. The overhanging nature of this boulder, coupled with its annoying dearth of foot holds make most of the sitter's very hard indeed. I was up here again yesterday playing on a few problems and managed only one other sitter; Fat Duck Arête F6B on the left hand side starting off a pinch on the arête and a side pull for the right hand. Good boppy fun. I also did a stand start on the shield immediately left off opposing arête's. I played on both finishes (the righthand exit is best) and almost linked it from a sitter similar to fat duck arête, although a fist jam replaced the pinch. I was thinking, although fun, my jumpy moves into the standing start position was a bit eliminate, as you could just slope up the right arête. However, looking back at the pic's I think a toe hook could make going into the standing start position the more sensible method.
A couple of stander's on the left hand side; Ball's Groove F6A+ takes the obvious clean hanging groove, and starts with hands on the left arête. The Chalked crimps to the right of the groove are the start of a Fast Cars type thing - Love Battery F6C finishes out right on the nose. Linking into this from the start of Quack Crack would be the send of the Bloc.

I'm quite keen to return with a wad to tidy up some of these bits, let me know if you're up for it.

Tuesday, 30 April 2013

More Mymbyr Info

Well here is the missing piece of the puzzle, the rest of the locations for the Mymbyr bouldering I know of.
This Link has your starters and basic approach, The Mighty 'Tashe is to the left of the stream and visible below the highball slab (this looked about F6a+ last visit but I've yet to fully commit). To the left of this is the boulders in the photo's above:
A) The sentinel boulder, start of the upper boulder field and just in front of Man Like Me.
B) Is Big Bad Bari at the top of the boulder field
C) The Quack Crack boulder, 30m further on from the Mighty 'Tashe.

Let me know what you think.

Enjoy

Saturday, 27 April 2013

Big Bad Bari Lives & Giveaway Project of The Month - April


Here he is. One session cleaning, one flabby session working and Today...
I managed to get up it. It seems that 4 consecutive days route setting at the Beacon, and a minor nod to improving my flexibility, is enough to make the difference. I warmed up on the top out, then linked from the chockstone into this. Then it was time to ride the Rig...

Big Bad Bari Font 6C+ish
Start from a hand fist stack at the obvious constriction at the back of the crack, invert and shuffle to the chockstone, swing round on undercut jams and yard up to the top.

The Boulder itself is also Big, Bad and home to Bari. This Months giveaway is the compression, slopey slappy thing that rears out from below Bari. It will be hard. It should also be very good. Get it touch for details.

Enjoy

Sunday, 31 March 2013

The Joys of Getting Beaten up

Yesterday was My first day out climbing since, I think, November. This has been due to bad things such as injury, weather and illness in the family, and the good things that having a family of three wild boys brings.
By 1130 I was stepping out the car, strapping on the gaitors and a pad stack and stomping up to Dyffryn Mymbyr. The goal was this, which in my mind has become Big Bad Bari. The snow was very patchy and generally avoided, but those bits I had to tussle with were of unpredictable depth and firmness. All good adventure. I stopped at the Mighty 'Tashe to warm up. This was lovely and warm in the sun and apart from a drippy philtrum was bone dry.
However, its extreme slopeyness meant it wasn't that great for a warm up. maybe back when I was a feidr fw devotee I could have lapped a few things. But I'm soft. Like Feta. Shame too as the snow had made a great platform under the crux section of the traverse.
I repacked everything and slogged up the snow encrusted heather to the main event. Good news; it was dry and snow free, and all it took was a little light brushing to return it to condition.
With my Borrowed pad, I had enough encouragement to give it a proper try. The first tussle commenced, or rather would have commenced if I could have seated the initial stack properly. Soft hands along with a soft body, not enough fighting, too much playing. A tighter fist and an enquiring eye, lock thumb against extensors and rotate. Feet are up and Wales is upside down once more.
Thrust legs deep, crunch the flabby core into action, hands grapple and crush untempered holds, but the memory of ability kicks my abbs back into gear and hands back into action. Lungs and Lactic, however, drop me to the pads.
Promising, I pant for a while and flex wooden digits, water and cake imbibed I bury my limbs into the duvet jacket. I Wait.
Round two. Stack and kick, keep the stack and pike thrust deep. Dangle and reset, clamp, thrust, shuffle, release, flick. I've got the pinch on the Chock.
Nice moment, pause, hooray..(small h)
Time reconvenes. My gut is taking a punching, lead legs swing and stab, a constricted upper cut gains a pinky bar. crap. Flailing fists gain flared pinky first cup jams. Rubbish, stab, crunch, swipe..
Splat.
Well that was interesting, the pinky bar was just an inch below a proper pinky jam, The game changer was just out of reach that attempt. I wait, raw hands throbbing under the duvet. Extend, retract, repeat. Flush out the lactic and lymph, slow the breathing.
Round three. Couldn't lift my legs in.
Knock out.
Bruised and Battered, I grinned my way back down the slope, wading the drifts and skidding over the weepy bogs, my head now throbbing with all familiar exertion, (no puking this trip). Deep breaths over the pass and off to bed, an hour sleep.
Next time I hope to catch Bari. a bit more sleep beforehand, a lack of lurgy, and maybe some more effective fitness and I'll flipping 'ave 'im.
I've realised looking back on past endeavours how much of an effective training ground Feidr Fw was, I was nursing pulley injuries at the time and was seeking jamming as a distraction, so nearly all    the climbing I was doing was out here rather than indoors. I spent a lot of time up on the hillside, So much that a friend rang my missus worried that I'd disappeared  as every time he drove to work at the Brennin, my car was in the same place. A lot of effort, but my futile return trips to try problems I did at the time has shown it certainly toughened me up, like its Vedauwoo namesake, I think I'll be making more regular trips there now, to see if it will redo its magic.

Thursday, 28 March 2013

Giveaway Project of the Month - March

Scrag end. The left overs of the quarry- a series of isolated buttresses below the entrance to Twll Mawr, Golgotha.


After the sport offerings of last month I thought I'd offer something more trad. Most pitches here that are trad suitable are a bit chinese takaway; nice at the time but ultimately disposable. However there is a vein of dolerite that starts next to Chitra and could be linked up all the way to Golgotha. Individual pitches that may be fun at the time (in fact I think the 1st pitch may have been done) but together as a ground up experience would be something special. With all pitches being not completely inaccessible from top and bottom, its even on the right side of committing too.

Enjoy