Never Trust a Hippy part2

Finaly went back to clean this thing with some gear to keep me in. All was going good until I reached a 3m section of Doris. Not for a soon-to-be father of three. Maybe if someone else goes to town with this section It may clean up, but for me I'm off to examine the project list I gave to the aformentioned hippy, to see if there isn't another plum worthy of the name.

Giveaway Project of the Month- January and February

January has been rammed with work and organising the BMC Youth climbing series. Consequently we've reached February and no project was released from the vaults. To pay for this grave error this giveaway is a biggie.
Take note anyone going to host for the BMC International meet this year as these projects are in Haldrine Cove, a couple of minutes scramble from Bosigran, and both are single pitch, so quick to capture.

First on the wave cut platform at the back of the cove is both an overhanging arete, and a corner crack groove thing, both appear Low to Mid Extreme. There is also a blank wall of matchstick edges, and a paddable base.

Secondly the bay on the far side of the wave cut platform is a line I coveted for years, but have not had the chance to seize. The right wall of the bay is a particularly wave polished bulging sweep of prime cornish granite. Bisecting this is a sweeping hand crack, bottomed out in places by a typical bosigran "coal seam". This would provide a stiff challenge in jamming and an aesthetic jewel in anyones crown.

There. Given away a prized posession, I'll try not to forget March's gift...

New Year, New Adventure

Well I seem to have succesfully avoided being tempted out onto the ice for another year, Shame really as the memories of my last ordeal of hypothermic masochism seemed to have all but faded now in the stream of enthusiastic babble my friends are spouting, maybe next year...

I also have news of more mini hosey's on the way so the ultimate adventure seems to be growing somewhat, I'll have to refine and improve the fast and light "expresso" adventure so watch this space.

I've also submitted my title for LLAMFF this year:

The Daddy Club - How to have an epic and still be back for Bathtime
The Adventure of fatherhood, and trying to balance extreme enthusiasm for esoteric adventure with emptying the nappy bin.

I'm feeling in need of more material so anybody want to experiece some lovely adventure, do get in touch..

Giveaway Project of the Month - December

Went for a walk with the family on Christmas Day. The quarries was all snowy and seemed a popular destination for crimbo jollies with foot and paw prints going off in all directions. We got as far as looning the tube before the Boys tummy was rumbling, But Got a couple of snaps off that reminded me of an old project..


Now above the Oildrum Glacier is an Water course that freezes each year, Its in the shadows in the above photo (important), I've blown it up below off a different angle.

You can see the bottom half is well whited up; this is a forty five degree slab, above it the water runs over blocky ledges and often mushrooms in winter, It looks a little lean in this piccy.

Of course Its all thawed now, but it does seem the right time of year to giveaway a winter project, and I'm sure it'll return.

Enjoy

Two steps forward..

Had a rare afternoon to flog myself up to the Mighty 'Tashe boulder last sunday, This is my current vaguely secret pebble obsession on the lovely hillside of Wales somewhere. Despite the cold I still found myself puffing a bit on the slog in (wellies this time -top kit) although that might be because I was also dragging up my new bouldering pad, a 4ft by 8 stunt pad curtesy of "Clash of the Titans".
The 'Tashe itself is a 30ft long sliver of slopeyness, that I started toying with last year, getting two upward lines, and half the traverse (left hand 'tashe) done. With a feeling of leaness, and doing rather well in this pulling on plastic stuff, I thought I may have a chance at the Full 'Tashe itself.

It took a whole session to get the Left hand bit..

Plastic strength don't mean much, I've got to get up in them thar hills.

Once again praying for babysitters..

Never Trust a Hippy

Well Its about time I moved onto my next project...
About 2 years ago I gave a friend a list of about 5 unclimbed trad projects in the slate quarries as he said he was quite keen to do one. As of today they are all still unclimbed. I thought I'd have a go at this one:


My memories of it were a widish crack going up a corner, So blessed by babysitting I had 2 hours to run in abb down, clean and run out again. I set off fast and light, with abb rope, helmet, harness, a few screwgates and my cleaning kit. This was 15:30, I was in place by 4 with the light fading. The crack seemed steeper than I remebered. Once over the edge I saw that the abb rope was touching down 2m from the face, With me without a rack to stitch myself in.
Arse.
With the bottom 2m cleaned, I had to get out in the dark, scaling 2 pipes in the process and was back at the homestead in 1hr 58. nice if frustating day.

Operation "never trust a hippy" will continue....

Giveaway Project of the Month - November

I had a bit of difficulty picking this months freebie. I seem to be increasing in my enthusiasm for getting stuff done lately, and correspondingly my Optimism that I might actually try any of these has risen. However, snow has fallen on these thar hills and a winter mindset is now required. I have two Plum winter lines to give away, but these require more research (I.e have they been done already).

The long and the short of it is this month I'm giving away an entire unclimbed crag, although you might have to wait until its unfrozen / dry.
Meet Mynydd Drws y Coed:

This piccy is from that font of all knowledge Geograph. This is due to me forgetting my camera on my first aquaintence. I was out scrambing and the sun hit those crags on the right and made them glow like a box of Terry's all Gold. Further extensive research has failed to find any sign of prevous routes so fill your boots. The aretes look pretty clean, but I reckon the undercut butress could yield the best results.

Enjoy the walk in.