The Joy of Self Sandbagging

Yesterday I was captured from my ordinary week and given the rarest of gifts, The opportunity to introduce new friends to some old ones..

Yep, we got to feed the Brutaliser..

On a rare excurison to England, Alex the Hoff and I took a jaunt to Brimham Rocks, home to a plethora of lovely wide cracks and this benign E3 in particular. Much fun was had, warming up on Desperation Crack, before seiging Bog Crack, and moving down here for a spot of yoyoing. There was not a little blood loss, Particularly from Lord Bertram, who became enamoured by Charming Crack and fed her small morsels of his own flesh. We then tried to feed the Brutaliser a small maiden, but she got spat out...

All In All, much fun was had, woes and cares were draped on the jaws of these noble beasts, and some small victory was shared.

However, the rock always wins, and we now all ache in fundamental ways. I think We'll be back.. (maybe when the Owl leaves Giggling crack?)

Thanks guys for taking me away!

Suncharm Ledge goes public

The news you've all been waiting for...





I.e. We've mopped up all the easy lines and its all yours.

SunCharm Ledge offers a crisp smooth quarried Dolerite Wall, with 4m of highball fun, and a heathery patch to plonk your pads

Calum M and I went down here on Saturday with a pad each and this 2pads + spotter set up Seemed to work really well

Its a traverse off left to get down, The Suncharmer being from a little higher, as can Rhinoplasty if you want too..

1. Flock of flying Butt Monkey's V1 tackles the flying arete on the left.

2. The Groove of Smooth V3 is the flying groove entered from the left

3. Maurice Chevalier V3 the central arete

4. Observation groove V0- the easy central corner

5. Sunshine Swing V4/5 The impressive right arete taken via left side and rock onto ledge to scamper off rather than top out

6. Rhinoplasty V5/6 the right arete taken head on to finish as for SS

7. The Suncharmer V3 the ltr girdle to the proper highball finish

Calum got 5 & 6, the rest yours truly

Just the blank right wall to go..

To Get to Suncharm Ledge:

1.Follow the tourist path from bus stop to Twll Mawr

2. Hop over the right fence, scamper to the hut and look over the edge

3. Take the obvious scramble down to Suncharm ledge.

Giveaway Project of the Month -March

Back in Gods own Country for this month and another Dyffrym Mymbyr boulder, follow the wire fence up for this one. and bring a team of Spotters as the landing is a bit slopey. (mat for scale)

happy landings...

LLAMFF and life stuff

Did my talk "The Daddy club- How to have an epic and still be back for bathtime" to a small but receptive audience last night, Included this awsome slide that proves there's class bouldering in the quarries. Got to climb with a rope today tho' First time outside since October. I will admit itt made me a bit emotional, must be going soft, but there's a lot to be said for this climbing lark.
Must try harder

Never Trust a Hippy part2

Finaly went back to clean this thing with some gear to keep me in. All was going good until I reached a 3m section of Doris. Not for a soon-to-be father of three. Maybe if someone else goes to town with this section It may clean up, but for me I'm off to examine the project list I gave to the aformentioned hippy, to see if there isn't another plum worthy of the name.

Giveaway Project of the Month- January and February

January has been rammed with work and organising the BMC Youth climbing series. Consequently we've reached February and no project was released from the vaults. To pay for this grave error this giveaway is a biggie.
Take note anyone going to host for the BMC International meet this year as these projects are in Haldrine Cove, a couple of minutes scramble from Bosigran, and both are single pitch, so quick to capture.

First on the wave cut platform at the back of the cove is both an overhanging arete, and a corner crack groove thing, both appear Low to Mid Extreme. There is also a blank wall of matchstick edges, and a paddable base.

Secondly the bay on the far side of the wave cut platform is a line I coveted for years, but have not had the chance to seize. The right wall of the bay is a particularly wave polished bulging sweep of prime cornish granite. Bisecting this is a sweeping hand crack, bottomed out in places by a typical bosigran "coal seam". This would provide a stiff challenge in jamming and an aesthetic jewel in anyones crown.

There. Given away a prized posession, I'll try not to forget March's gift...

New Year, New Adventure

Well I seem to have succesfully avoided being tempted out onto the ice for another year, Shame really as the memories of my last ordeal of hypothermic masochism seemed to have all but faded now in the stream of enthusiastic babble my friends are spouting, maybe next year...

I also have news of more mini hosey's on the way so the ultimate adventure seems to be growing somewhat, I'll have to refine and improve the fast and light "expresso" adventure so watch this space.

I've also submitted my title for LLAMFF this year:

The Daddy Club - How to have an epic and still be back for Bathtime
The Adventure of fatherhood, and trying to balance extreme enthusiasm for esoteric adventure with emptying the nappy bin.

I'm feeling in need of more material so anybody want to experiece some lovely adventure, do get in touch..