Monday, 27 December 2010
Traning has yet to start. Clearing the 400m track at work has been dispiriting enough and tends to generally beast me rather than the specific torture required.
and then like sisyphus Ihave to watch it start to snow again..
Normal honing will resume in the new year...
Thursday, 16 December 2010
To combat this, I've decided to set myself a goal, announce it, and get training (more later)
This is Codename: The Beast in Me..
Suffice to say, Its going to be a rather hard offwidth to conquer. All the usual suspects know I've set it in my sights and, are graciously allowing me a good go (cheers G, Stevie and Tom).
So all I have to do is get strong, get it clean and grind to victory... Think Gin Palace on trad.
As to actually getting strong, I'm in the dilema of time management and having to isolate my busted bits.
There's also the fact that training hurts, at least for offwidths it does...
Currently thinking of serial micro sessions of beasting mini-supersets to failure; something like 3 push ups into 3 pull ups-in-pike and continue until puke.
Might take some refining..
If I settle for nothing now..
Thursday, 25 November 2010
Behold the Chasm of the Snowdon Lady Copper Mine!
This impressive hole is found above Ben's Bunkhouse near Nant Peris and has previously been explored by Mr Crook (and Prussiked out of again). I'm sure you have noted its lush colouration and aesthetic rock bridges, mainly a touch too damp for standard climbing, but an exemplary situation for an adventure!
I have theorised that a weighted line may secure protection from the architecture, providing for an unconventional ascent. Also, if this winter follows through on all its promises, a truly memorable winter "condition" line may be experienced.
Sunday, 21 November 2010
Last week I returned to micro adventures, I was granted an hour to investigate a rumour that some sponsored heroes were visiting scrag end..
Scrag end, with the posh Golgotha Buttress at the top
The Alien Space craft (see film one) and my vantage point for the scrag end photo
Wednesday, 10 November 2010
Saturday, 30 October 2010
Wednesday, 13 October 2010
Once again, Craine's law struck and it turned out to be 10ft high and full of unpleasantness. In the end, just to be out on the hill under cobalt blue skies was reward enough.
Friday, 8 October 2010
Currently seeing a physio who has been encouraging and optimistic even about some of me old war wounds. Have been encouraged to pull on a bit indoors and find where the pain ceiling is (about slopey V6) and told not to mope.
All is good, and Logan is 2 next week (and he's done his first new route at the Clegir boulders encouraged by satsuma's)
Friday, 24 September 2010
Saturday, 28 August 2010
Wednesday, 14 July 2010
Tuesday, 13 July 2010
Starts nice and dry right under the boulder on some flakes in the roof, and ends up mantling out at the end after some heel hookery. This pretty much draws my clegir development to a close.
Time to try some classics and find out how off my grading is...
Tuesday, 6 July 2010
Once again the crack house was my destination (soon to be fully public) and I went with Pantontino for an ego sesh; basically show and tell and some piccies. Did the last line I was keen to sire. This was Receding Hairline V4/5; a sitter on the right wall of Barred to the bone. It starts off an undercut and a flatty on the right wall and follows the general vicinity of the hairline crack (pretty obvious in the piccy). Apart from ruling out the jug high and deep inside barred, and a big foot block, It felt very non eliminate and Quite powerfull!
Very happy, I packed up the kit I'd stashed there and moved on to a new shed...
Watch this space
Monday, 5 July 2010
So its going to be quality not quantity for a bit, and this is pure Quality!
The sunny seaside town of Benllech on Ynys Mon is home to a nice beach, some sport routes and this lovely cave....
South of hidden wall, this 40ft deep cave has a nicely flared horizontal chimney running through its entire roof at head height. The rear of the cave is fairly cramped and non descript, but a couple of yards towards the light a chockstone marks a sensible starting point. From here, jamming, back-and-footing, and general squirming will get you to the light and here...
Tuesday, 22 June 2010
A jumble of rather large boulders; the block in front is nice to lounge on and has a sds dyno on its right side The Rake V3 which launches off a phat side pull and a crimpy one for the top. Tucked behind this is the pit which holds:
Toebar V4 goes up the front of the prow from the chalked holds near the vertical pod to top out direct. its a sds which utilises toes cammed into the gap between the prow and the block below.
I finished happy at eleven when I could no longer see the holds ( I didn't pack a head torch to prevent me staying too long) I saw two glow worms on the way home!
Friday, 18 June 2010
Tuesday, 15 June 2010
The Bunker is the new area of retreat after the shed, all still a bit hush hush, as I haven't yet fully plundered its potential. Nothing that hard here, a couple of V3's, some squeezes, but round the corner is the Crackhouse, and that is something special.
Have to enlist a co-conspiritor tho' as the monoliths are a bit bunched.
Watch this space
Saturday, 12 June 2010
Draw lengths all seemed to be about right (tick)
Got on 1st Redpoint and climbed clean to just past the 3rd draw (tick)
Seepage was, however, a problem on the top bit. And I am too weak.
Can't seem to work out the easiest sequence on the top bit, as its all just variations on "can't do" and as such they are hard to differentiate between. I think I'm just going to have to get quite a bit stronger before I can really have another worthwhile redpoint, although just getting to the 4th draw would be probably worth a f7b ego tick on its own... so maybe in a bit I'll try that.
The youth had a sort of go at cleaning project red, but it needs a more workman like approach to bring it into nice climbing condition.
I also did the 1st boulder problem to grace the mini barrel, and buried my nice jumper under rubble securing the top out.
Friday, 4 June 2010
Subtle cajooling got him tied on to lead the stroll that is the wriggler's first pitch. I got to lead the second in temperatures over 5 degree's which was a new and pleasant experience for me (I did the 1st ascent in winter to celebrate the birth of my son). Fraser floated up after me and we were able to take the tunnel to the shed. Always seems to take longer than you expect, especially for Fraser as he doesn't own wellies, and opted to take the cave chilled wading sections in teva's.
At the other end, Fraser once again found himself on the sharp end for "Way down in the Hole" another E1: with an extra wire for dad pro, he romped up the 1st pitch, allowing me to lead through to... the belay for the 2nd pitch (wait for the guide). He was half way up this testing arete before he cottoned on to the sleight of hand, but battled to the top with the minimum of brown trousers. I Guess he's now well and truly back in the saddle now.
After this, I stuck up the rope on the project for my first proper toppy. This is what I found out:
I can get to the third clip clean, and it is about V5.
I have a new sequence for the next section at a more amenable V6.
The Top bit is V6/7 but I am firming up a sequence.
I know what length Quickdraws I want on each bolt.
There are no real rests.
My fingers are a little way off.
My Power endurance is a long way off.
It is Feasable!!!
Must start dreaming up an appropriate training thingumy.
Wednesday, 2 June 2010
However the whole reason I missed my deadline was due to the impending arrival of my zoo of monkeys, so I probably won't have time anyway.
Off to Mount Doom.
The White line is the amazing Wriggler, a classic E1 on the lofty heights of Cefn Du. Consisting of two contrasting pitches of enjoyable adventure; the first an easy dolerite ledge shuffle, the second is a bold and airy slate slab.
A blunt 40ft fontesque arete. The rock is crysaline slate over an ingneous intrusion, solid once clean but not prone to traditional crimps. Can be top roped off the P1 belay of the wriggler.
A blank expedition up a near vertical baldness, through an overlap into a very thin slab, joining the wriggler at its second bolt. The route could be top roped off this.
So there we go. Both would benefit from / require bolts. Both are mondo hard, but dripping in glory.
Might even clean them for you tommorrow...
Friday, 14 May 2010
But It Was Free!!!
The morning was spent next to the Bates motel, cuddling a lovely new boulder problem which should appear here eventually.
Once the Car was captured, I regained my shunt off of Reeves and hot footed it to the shed.
Oh Balls this projects hard...
The good news is I could probably get up to the third clip with current fitness.
The bad news is its probably then V7/8 to clip four, and then V6/7 to the lower off.
Today I ache.
Might have to get, well, better I suppose.
Sunday, 9 May 2010
Well I have a quarry, and this is my project
I revisited the shed last week, got this out of mothballs, chalked it up and put the bolts in. This was no mean feat, however, as:
This quarry, although convienient for parking, is a little exciting to access.
You are required to climb to rig ropes from above.
It overhangs by 1.5m in 10m
I couldn't get to it before 9.30pm.
Much hilarity ensued, with one of the rather useful holds getting pulled off while trying to get in enough to bolt. Still I reckon its still within ( or close to) the realms of possibility with my current fitness.
All I need now is some helpful belayers to spare the odd couple of hours now and then as its too steep/dynamic to shunt!
(there are other available projects to tinker with in the shed by way of sweetener)
Friday, 23 April 2010
Type this into Google maps
Good quality rock
undercut leaning flake line
overhanging peapod with pro
cute blunt arete/groove feature
may harbour mosquitoes
some loose rock
ring fenced within a soon to be busy industrial estate.... Maybe
G Mawr can take a pretty good piccy.
boulder problems don't have to look great to climb great.
I haven't Properly jammed in a while..
Whilst having a constitutional at Mancer Quarry
They're improving the roads within Glyn Rhonwy.
Construction workers don't seem to have great peripheral vision.
My abandoned abb rope is gone from Liquid Armbar (Kids, Council or an attempted ascent?)
I'm still obsessing about potential new routes.
Friday, 16 April 2010
On a rare excurison to England, Alex the Hoff and I took a jaunt to Brimham Rocks, home to a plethora of lovely wide cracks and this benign E3 in particular. Much fun was had, warming up on Desperation Crack, before seiging Bog Crack, and moving down here for a spot of yoyoing. There was not a little blood loss, Particularly from Lord Bertram, who became enamoured by Charming Crack and fed her small morsels of his own flesh. We then tried to feed the Brutaliser a small maiden, but she got spat out...
All In All, much fun was had, woes and cares were draped on the jaws of these noble beasts, and some small victory was shared.
However, the rock always wins, and we now all ache in fundamental ways. I think We'll be back.. (maybe when the Owl leaves Giggling crack?)
Thanks guys for taking me away!
Monday, 12 April 2010
I.e. We've mopped up all the easy lines and its all yours.
SunCharm Ledge offers a crisp smooth quarried Dolerite Wall, with 4m of highball fun, and a heathery patch to plonk your pads
Calum M and I went down here on Saturday with a pad each and this 2pads + spotter set up Seemed to work really well
Its a traverse off left to get down, The Suncharmer being from a little higher, as can Rhinoplasty if you want too..
1. Flock of flying Butt Monkey's V1 tackles the flying arete on the left.
2. The Groove of Smooth V3 is the flying groove entered from the left
3. Maurice Chevalier V3 the central arete
4. Observation groove V0- the easy central corner
5. Sunshine Swing V4/5 The impressive right arete taken via left side and rock onto ledge to scamper off rather than top out
6. Rhinoplasty V5/6 the right arete taken head on to finish as for SS
7. The Suncharmer V3 the ltr girdle to the proper highball finish
Calum got 5 & 6, the rest yours truly
Calum got 5 & 6, the rest yours truly
Just the blank right wall to go..
To Get to Suncharm Ledge:
1.Follow the tourist path from bus stop to Twll Mawr
2. Hop over the right fence, scamper to the hut and look over the edge
3. Take the obvious scramble down to Suncharm ledge.
Sunday, 21 March 2010
Saturday, 6 March 2010
Must try harder
Thursday, 18 February 2010
Friday, 5 February 2010
January has been rammed with work and organising the BMC Youth climbing series. Consequently we've reached February and no project was released from the vaults. To pay for this grave error this giveaway is a biggie.
Take note anyone going to host for the BMC International meet this year as these projects are in Haldrine Cove, a couple of minutes scramble from Bosigran, and both are single pitch, so quick to capture.
First on the wave cut platform at the back of the cove is both an overhanging arete, and a corner crack groove thing, both appear Low to Mid Extreme. There is also a blank wall of matchstick edges, and a paddable base.
Secondly the bay on the far side of the wave cut platform is a line I coveted for years, but have not had the chance to seize. The right wall of the bay is a particularly wave polished bulging sweep of prime cornish granite. Bisecting this is a sweeping hand crack, bottomed out in places by a typical bosigran "coal seam". This would provide a stiff challenge in jamming and an aesthetic jewel in anyones crown.
There. Given away a prized posession, I'll try not to forget March's gift...
Friday, 15 January 2010
I also have news of more mini hosey's on the way so the ultimate adventure seems to be growing somewhat, I'll have to refine and improve the fast and light "expresso" adventure so watch this space.
I've also submitted my title for LLAMFF this year:
The Daddy Club - How to have an epic and still be back for Bathtime
The Adventure of fatherhood, and trying to balance extreme enthusiasm for esoteric adventure with emptying the nappy bin.
I'm feeling in need of more material so anybody want to experiece some lovely adventure, do get in touch..