tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2756685377728039792024-02-18T21:16:34.372-08:00Hosey BThese are my meandering musings on Climbing, Adventure, Esoterica, and Rocks of both types; solid and notHoseyBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07146986140129451636noreply@blogger.comBlogger359125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-275668537772803979.post-59961470204266719882024-02-08T02:00:00.000-08:002024-02-08T02:01:01.935-08:00Conditioning Culture <p> So.</p><p>Six months after coming to the realisation that I had to change my climbing mindset, I think it's going ok.</p><p>I'm doing things I'd always cocked a snook at, like weighted pull ups and regular targeted fingerboard sessions.</p><p>My fingers are feeling healthy, I restarted outdoor climbing in November, visiting <a href="https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2017/11/its-been-wet.html?m=0">Mindhorn</a> with this Wad</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL2XpbpWzRpWtJDP1lH9T1zEhQuaxcVP03FNYYlWKlXVOU-kHE6EY9QujYC6RTVwwX1q0SZRx8KT3NnKeJM-rg7mRDSHiBmZO-JMKrfy6APIlXZ7Iss3uv7jyeH9LCY4bgInUjsB1GTDiz7rzCI7E3WDhAex7sD0u_TunBylURfHNYuDl8RVeAIkVmaujO/s4608/IMG_20231130_132527060_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL2XpbpWzRpWtJDP1lH9T1zEhQuaxcVP03FNYYlWKlXVOU-kHE6EY9QujYC6RTVwwX1q0SZRx8KT3NnKeJM-rg7mRDSHiBmZO-JMKrfy6APIlXZ7Iss3uv7jyeH9LCY4bgInUjsB1GTDiz7rzCI7E3WDhAex7sD0u_TunBylURfHNYuDl8RVeAIkVmaujO/s320/IMG_20231130_132527060_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><p>I then didn't get out again until January when this wad invited me to slog up a mountain</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxc2q7EH4MsY18kRTSmmoRG6tchJNyrbwtdh28O7wirVqKP0E2T9_R3mM1KQSLRq3aVvd_XryL90FLky6rPgA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /><p>In between these sporadic micro adventures, I've been chipping away at my weakness indoors, getting volume and trying to get some consistency in my bouldering. This far that's meant doing a lot of 6C/+ with some low 7's occasionally being gifted.</p><p>As previously stated, this year I turn fifty, and I'm keen to make myself into a more robust bouldering machine. Further to that I am aiming to climb harder than I have done before because of this.</p><p>To that end I have set myself the goal of climbing a 7B+ before my birthday in August. I have nominally selected Ultimate Warrior as a target as it ticks the following boxes:</p><p> ✔️ Its a very good problem that looks pretty</p><p>✔️ It's been 7B+ for ages</p><p>✔️ I'm not shit at bouncing between crimps on a slightly overhanging wall.</p><p>✔️ The hard bits at the bottom </p><p>Yesterday's weather was a rare window in the rain and I decided to take my first visit. Due to the wonderful logistical set up I have in North Wales I was able to spend an hour warming up at the wall, then jump on the new bypass and be putting on my boots and hour later.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqvmOLunsqfLjiOlP5jxdib2bNAMfJQ9EzaB1N9QgnEVnQcsAOnjnvKF2RzemCe-MppF5ZF0uQIG8rKSedaMj2sAYR79qymD5uXVZgPhkViBoNm49cNs7LhZ7Y9I0k9huaizHbzkeMd2ng9yUPOPELqlv0qa0gVaM_LA7lFId5ZsY2I4NjmI39h5Z2ekBS/s4608/IMG_20240207_122708647.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqvmOLunsqfLjiOlP5jxdib2bNAMfJQ9EzaB1N9QgnEVnQcsAOnjnvKF2RzemCe-MppF5ZF0uQIG8rKSedaMj2sAYR79qymD5uXVZgPhkViBoNm49cNs7LhZ7Y9I0k9huaizHbzkeMd2ng9yUPOPELqlv0qa0gVaM_LA7lFId5ZsY2I4NjmI39h5Z2ekBS/s320/IMG_20240207_122708647.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><p>It was a very still day and the north facing wall hadn't shed all it's dampness. I was unsure as to whether I should pull on, but gave the holds a good feel, and was happy the handholds were dry enough to use without damaging them ( I know it's dolerite not grit, but being such a famous problem I was a bit paranoid).</p><p> There is a hollow foothold out right that I excluded from my attempts on the stand as it looked to damp and fragile. I think it would be really useful for my attempts at the full thing, but I can work that into my sequence in better connies.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlaqQNb2BpG0nvHdQHa-utouHwCdTsQ1vAM0m7zaJ_tyDBbOUVzwJiiJm-lMyKVcn1-mKe9YLzuDbCUynVF377GPjwPy6Awx9UXtmHDT3gK5K7LkmqEy1YnFXEcBLGOlFW2D363hjXsjGdTF6Lj6XBt2PHAkBA6jMqNyvE3BVgcB98QxzGOMLTxIlpwkjC/s4608/IMG_20240207_123833793.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlaqQNb2BpG0nvHdQHa-utouHwCdTsQ1vAM0m7zaJ_tyDBbOUVzwJiiJm-lMyKVcn1-mKe9YLzuDbCUynVF377GPjwPy6Awx9UXtmHDT3gK5K7LkmqEy1YnFXEcBLGOlFW2D363hjXsjGdTF6Lj6XBt2PHAkBA6jMqNyvE3BVgcB98QxzGOMLTxIlpwkjC/s320/IMG_20240207_123833793.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><p>A bit of beating and a brush on a walking pole and I was ready to try. In my slightly brash thinking in my head, I'd decided to give it full beans and go all out for the flash on the stand version.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/jZTbGc1xm5I" width="320" youtube-src-id="jZTbGc1xm5I"></iframe></div><br /><p>I arrived at the lip and got a bit scared, grinding it out on my knees. However, another mini goal ticked.</p><p>The whole thing is another kettle of fish.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzlKeQlys_TBa8L3DP3FpXcNptz2gJwLLnJr7aXnsd5TXO-SHATRI4PV5znVWKWTZ7JLtvFg9S4H_NWrMKBqw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /><p>Another climber called Tom arrived, and it was really cool seeing him get the stand also. We spent some time playing with the full version, and I started pulling on with one hand on the stands rail and the heel in. </p><p>Once it was lunchtime I decamped to another hillside to open this year's account on a couple of other goals for the year. Some long term projects near <a href="https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2019/07/approaching-official-operating-speed.html?m=1">Dutch Trance</a>. I was pleased to climb both stand versions ( I couldn't last year), and also pleased that the moves I had done in the past on the full versions looked no harder than those on Ultimate Warrior. I don't think I'll be double sessioning these venues again for a while though.</p><p>This is the middle bit of Gabber Gabba</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dw2buHpCmVDlvThqlyiDJgz9xQhbJg-TqwPRAKIaZSfuQCQE6YryC1GsU2vpH5iOkNJwUVXqJPbzXCPBFEuZg' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /><p>So all positive and good motivation to get back to conditioning.</p><p>Watch this space.</p>HoseyBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07146986140129451636noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-275668537772803979.post-68918243078654731132023-10-23T15:54:00.001-07:002023-10-23T15:54:33.804-07:00Crafting Contentment amidst Caca<p> It's actually been a pretty ok year. On paper it looks utter dog shit of course.</p><p>Having to move house, stress at work, serious family illness and the day to day struggles of neurodiverse kids have meant the minor snatches of adventure have been gold dust. Both in value and scarcity. </p><p>To top it all off a niggling wrist flared up and then POp another pulley injury. Quite possibly the cortisol contributed.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX3StAbIJJqAmJMARN9S6ZQPokCqSmxa0jew-RDr4ZdED_N9FhyphenhyphenY_8rrBK60S81qwM5DBcADgG2RUsyjA7k5fJ_G3b6UUuBNQ4WezdjX9nYJBSFUMS9zHEt7-CyR7jjg8SwtRUzQtrizrxflRtoV4-WGqLngJlDZ5n_mW9HCMYe3XLy10lpT4V41XraHHR/s3840/IMG-20230821-WA0004.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3840" data-original-width="2160" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX3StAbIJJqAmJMARN9S6ZQPokCqSmxa0jew-RDr4ZdED_N9FhyphenhyphenY_8rrBK60S81qwM5DBcADgG2RUsyjA7k5fJ_G3b6UUuBNQ4WezdjX9nYJBSFUMS9zHEt7-CyR7jjg8SwtRUzQtrizrxflRtoV4-WGqLngJlDZ5n_mW9HCMYe3XLy10lpT4V41XraHHR/s320/IMG-20230821-WA0004.jpeg" width="180" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>So how's it been ok? Well I've found treasure in the small things, prior to temporarily disabling myself it was easy days bouldering with friends, daft mini adventures with the kids. Post injury it's the planning...</p><p>Next year I turn 50. I'm a little fed up with the last two years of injury, and have decided to do something about it.</p><p>All my life I've saught adventure, when the going got hard I specifically excersised to overcome the chosen objective, but there wasn't a culture training as we know it. </p><p>Consequently I'm ashamed to admit there's many gaps in my climbing game, and it's quite possible that as I'm no longer "just climbing lots" I'm cashing cheques I can't write ( flip I'm showing my age). </p><p>First I asked a physio to hold me accountable with bi monthly check ups.</p><p>Secondly I goal set; to get back to 7B and hopefully beyond by my birthday.</p><p>This means infiltrating my life with a culture of training. Not sure what that looks like yet.</p><p><br /></p><p>Thirdly, as I can't climb yet, I need to have alternative adventures!</p><p>Cue digging <a href="https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2015/08/birthday-antics.html?m=1">Binky the Wonder Boat</a> out of storage..<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgthYyNtDIYGrQxJ2kfBic7-EaLPT_X8Yfy0RRP7BoSSRb2gDIHoI1GMpG22yAx-vRH82GOWPYkvQeWtSUNMV-ZptTqZtEu9QARlSYWCkyNTpZoLDwuzTriuPsG4GpJnJIPr2ZBaq49kifJV5uiL5e7hsSmeFPekfNzcIgvr09NHTBNvrrNUqJb8riw3A9h/s4608/IMG_20231022_143132285_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgthYyNtDIYGrQxJ2kfBic7-EaLPT_X8Yfy0RRP7BoSSRb2gDIHoI1GMpG22yAx-vRH82GOWPYkvQeWtSUNMV-ZptTqZtEu9QARlSYWCkyNTpZoLDwuzTriuPsG4GpJnJIPr2ZBaq49kifJV5uiL5e7hsSmeFPekfNzcIgvr09NHTBNvrrNUqJb8riw3A9h/s320/IMG_20231022_143132285_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>The target was Craig y llam, the site of my first <a href="https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2009/08/day-one-7-days-of-adventure.html?m=1">ill fated coasteering session</a>, and source of a massive niggle of unfinished business. I'm sure there's some projects waiting for me.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMbJ9YGMz0QcjqUMwg8OH_wdDjgEQ192xCwaLyo8yCU2DcSWD6fLdOSV694RMqu60EAXgGwUhTsJu5ODZ6Sn6s0Y7Y96rALKIoanQZTWinfGJrIrd81T7tIItThUIuuCwZyKOW8ouCWbuNxK59nbPj_46L8-eOR5kfNBHFRRn5pChsyDbE5FzvWtHF7Xdn/s4453/IMG_20231022_145855850_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3340" data-original-width="4453" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMbJ9YGMz0QcjqUMwg8OH_wdDjgEQ192xCwaLyo8yCU2DcSWD6fLdOSV694RMqu60EAXgGwUhTsJu5ODZ6Sn6s0Y7Y96rALKIoanQZTWinfGJrIrd81T7tIItThUIuuCwZyKOW8ouCWbuNxK59nbPj_46L8-eOR5kfNBHFRRn5pChsyDbE5FzvWtHF7Xdn/s320/IMG_20231022_145855850_HDR.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">First thing I learnt was I've forgotten how to row. It may not have helped that the electric pump didn't quite have the guts to get it totally rigid, so the oar holes were flapping a bit.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggd1RJJbkwDp6YPj0kzDeivrooVq-VIbB28G7rvka_fWQC07rR5d8eraGxJzlRIV3l2Vz8bev7mxtnAByml3PYpl56Ya4MtDZjGUQPLCDopU8ilaCwSh7kyfVBVdeGZxFPwmkuiJ6wLrM0OM0gvAtPazO0XWlWskFvGR-PyilNePQJQDbVQkUm1KC9z0CG/s4396/IMG_20231022_152153172_BURST000_COVER.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3297" data-original-width="4396" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggd1RJJbkwDp6YPj0kzDeivrooVq-VIbB28G7rvka_fWQC07rR5d8eraGxJzlRIV3l2Vz8bev7mxtnAByml3PYpl56Ya4MtDZjGUQPLCDopU8ilaCwSh7kyfVBVdeGZxFPwmkuiJ6wLrM0OM0gvAtPazO0XWlWskFvGR-PyilNePQJQDbVQkUm1KC9z0CG/s320/IMG_20231022_152153172_BURST000_COVER.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">It took quite a lot of whirligig type buffoonery to get round the fishing rock and to the cliff proper.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaSAOreqG8TuSH7mbJbJz8eaPDo2m8XbwzA4D1-yd9xvONfqTMcwZ-kJslQNE_e5eILh0pq9EZqiC6VxJZ6o76Epafw6C7T-dXYG1BYiIInzFwc79jb33anYlHfsjJi1PC5I2oxAqQE8sLRNP130JJRdr3UWkwSZyS0WmH-PbxxUBhiCEA7BbfRWKZ7SZW/s4306/IMG_20231022_152444605_BURST001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3229" data-original-width="4306" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaSAOreqG8TuSH7mbJbJz8eaPDo2m8XbwzA4D1-yd9xvONfqTMcwZ-kJslQNE_e5eILh0pq9EZqiC6VxJZ6o76Epafw6C7T-dXYG1BYiIInzFwc79jb33anYlHfsjJi1PC5I2oxAqQE8sLRNP130JJRdr3UWkwSZyS0WmH-PbxxUBhiCEA7BbfRWKZ7SZW/s320/IMG_20231022_152444605_BURST001.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Some signs of DWS potential </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoKK-oZFqVKEaWFbf5mfgNVNWCWdReSNLaa-JiLPY7zuCRWbKfvD0QhcJcGofB8qNjCd0YMCdJvQdrjifEttF_AvNHC9hptmYv5gfB4p5Y3xVgf9bx57gyaH1rGAFfX2MEykLgGBmfiSqFq-RmmQNz5_CyTXiq-EpzHAn70kD1i2TiijO8MwUsNHzdiQsL/s4608/IMG_20231022_153132377_BURST000_COVER.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoKK-oZFqVKEaWFbf5mfgNVNWCWdReSNLaa-JiLPY7zuCRWbKfvD0QhcJcGofB8qNjCd0YMCdJvQdrjifEttF_AvNHC9hptmYv5gfB4p5Y3xVgf9bx57gyaH1rGAFfX2MEykLgGBmfiSqFq-RmmQNz5_CyTXiq-EpzHAn70kD1i2TiijO8MwUsNHzdiQsL/s320/IMG_20231022_153132377_BURST000_COVER.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Ahoy! An offwidth memory from 14 years ago </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitF5Z53pS8TVqAYaz3EYM2xO-FgzGIQlUcawa9J7oYR3Ngxatx1JhvBKCvpR0wMIyh90vGR3k6F0QJUrJxO1io6Vaz-gCmzLpEdCk485PYuGVT5q96I2LwZvLtqZubrlNppXR24yjm63OC6M9B_JsYXegDCBMvco3lthskNnu0OeFm4lMdDCwbmAu30ySp/s4608/IMG_20231022_153302302_BURST008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitF5Z53pS8TVqAYaz3EYM2xO-FgzGIQlUcawa9J7oYR3Ngxatx1JhvBKCvpR0wMIyh90vGR3k6F0QJUrJxO1io6Vaz-gCmzLpEdCk485PYuGVT5q96I2LwZvLtqZubrlNppXR24yjm63OC6M9B_JsYXegDCBMvco3lthskNnu0OeFm4lMdDCwbmAu30ySp/s320/IMG_20231022_153302302_BURST008.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">All I have to do now is work out how to pull on. Water seems deep enough and walls are all at least vertical. The chimney extends to an unknown depth within the cliff.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I didn't want to risk popping Binky trying to row to the back. It just occurred to me that I could have swum in, but I had nothing to moor to in any case.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Basically I need to visit in the company of fellow adventurers. Unfortunately being a very birdy cliff, this probably means next autumn.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">At least I'll be a 7B boulderer by then.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Keep Exploring </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />HoseyBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07146986140129451636noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-275668537772803979.post-38069004268258510662023-05-17T00:24:00.000-07:002023-05-17T00:24:14.410-07:00Punch Drunk but Happy<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Once I get the bit between my teeth, I tend to doggedly pull myself along towards death or glory. I will admit to being a little obsessive in that way. I was keen to get this crack done, I didn't want to distract myself with a myriad other projects. Get in, get the job done, then move on. First I had to get the crack clean, that meant cutting the log out. I borrowed an old pruning saw and went back with Ethan and Dave Fidler, a good man for boulder esoterica.</div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>Ethan got a rope around it. It didn't pull out, the rope was a natural fibre fat hawser of shipping detritus. It got stuck.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5phMAb7hG9b-U1BE34fTQarmLNeGaLDSyetDcRdff3T9pUQBkT7Y-ujirp1OjNumF2DgGXUN0nB_GCqp3tfkoFEYO30RA0k0dJKvodmnc13SzydXggzLilnjYZcT8M81I5iG5jIoeNyXInM-I2uDSOVwaJxn2jG0py2GUrVYd8FZCpuUNiN6YP3pVJw/s4608/IMG_20230219_155440771_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5phMAb7hG9b-U1BE34fTQarmLNeGaLDSyetDcRdff3T9pUQBkT7Y-ujirp1OjNumF2DgGXUN0nB_GCqp3tfkoFEYO30RA0k0dJKvodmnc13SzydXggzLilnjYZcT8M81I5iG5jIoeNyXInM-I2uDSOVwaJxn2jG0py2GUrVYd8FZCpuUNiN6YP3pVJw/s320/IMG_20230219_155440771_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYIfhSvN2cnH661rNsWGh1klUtUPyIMWQgtUPEADXaLmRL__luYrOCNO-ktIHgnnoUlRPzOzp72OwRIb7S74MMwfCwaMqGy_b2g_1BLyacyLn1MBmm2bIsDpaDjnBmOER5HnrUSejRYJANHBBdEQqG_YNU6xCBG3-Y-OAOYHgi5EuAJcS_3zNOM_MwRQ/s4608/IMG_20230219_155950283_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYIfhSvN2cnH661rNsWGh1klUtUPyIMWQgtUPEADXaLmRL__luYrOCNO-ktIHgnnoUlRPzOzp72OwRIb7S74MMwfCwaMqGy_b2g_1BLyacyLn1MBmm2bIsDpaDjnBmOER5HnrUSejRYJANHBBdEQqG_YNU6xCBG3-Y-OAOYHgi5EuAJcS_3zNOM_MwRQ/s320/IMG_20230219_155950283_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">We sent Ethan up with the saw. It was slow going. After we all had a go we stomped off to find something less frustrating to do.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Next month I was back with Dave, some large cams, a grigri and a shiny new pruning saw..</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfeDX8lCMfbDpbyLDo2ZQPYvBEzIVxZBXqQfzRLQgHfYT9Tt7CFUIU1jsE3eX5qCMyIF4UxSDjUKfMor8o3Pnb-eXXZ5oZe7qxnVzWt1Wrn4r9cDprXUgvJKPWlkFvP-ufHVHdCwoOl5BmYNscm62MRETMnqWaoUU1luO0edey9fLu_bRKXFeILXkJ4g/s2016/IMG-20230420-WA0000.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfeDX8lCMfbDpbyLDo2ZQPYvBEzIVxZBXqQfzRLQgHfYT9Tt7CFUIU1jsE3eX5qCMyIF4UxSDjUKfMor8o3Pnb-eXXZ5oZe7qxnVzWt1Wrn4r9cDprXUgvJKPWlkFvP-ufHVHdCwoOl5BmYNscm62MRETMnqWaoUU1luO0edey9fLu_bRKXFeILXkJ4g/s320/IMG-20230420-WA0000.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Unfortunately, the rope had been mashed by the tide into all sections of the crack. Cutting the log out was the easy bit. The rope was slow going, and I mashed my knuckles. Eventually it looked like we could tuck the worst of the rope out the way and have a go.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_DQQt3_hYBfZiP-jJIsBGoSjPJC0Vhm7dzkEDBRzWNZruNTGYYCV99OicJZQhRLby6iDoyg6bTnokyvxlbOc4WbQrOQ6NDzZ-n5-ienuBZdq9UodgT3lq6CIgQ5kWThbWjRzRE4_pg82Y3CbpGu2xChbkcAQcYfutryjSWOyQmXbB6hpiRBPR1EmH8g/s1920/VID_20230419_172032466_exported_47613.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1920" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_DQQt3_hYBfZiP-jJIsBGoSjPJC0Vhm7dzkEDBRzWNZruNTGYYCV99OicJZQhRLby6iDoyg6bTnokyvxlbOc4WbQrOQ6NDzZ-n5-ienuBZdq9UodgT3lq6CIgQ5kWThbWjRzRE4_pg82Y3CbpGu2xChbkcAQcYfutryjSWOyQmXbB6hpiRBPR1EmH8g/s320/VID_20230419_172032466_exported_47613.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Buggrit, yet again the rope was found to be still in the way. One key jam was blocked. I was pretty cut up. Literally in fact. The blockage of jams meant my attempts were mainly leg driven, and the enevitable back and footing shredded my back. I checked the tides and gave myself a month's peace for psyche and skin to re grow.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">May saw me furiously watching the forecasts. My supposed perfect tide day was at the end of a dry spell well enough. However, the rain was a-coming. It would be just my luck to put all that effort in only to be rained off. Taking inspiration from Caff, who'd managed a successful winter of first ascents by going to bed dead early, then sending in a series of weirdly dry dawn raids. I vowed to emulate this to get a tide window when the kids would be sleeping and easy for my wife to manage.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">The rope was still a bugger, and the early morning dew had yet to completely evaporate, leaving the reversal of the down climb to set the cam a little eerie. The rope was hard to reach but I was able to remove almost all, and expose a key jam. I was on my own this time, and was a little perturbed that the pebbles had dropped again. Well, I'd brought all four of my pads, so I'd better make them count.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dw0dLdwnBbH-RKn5Kno-UPyYwWjf5JRTjHQM5j3xk4ZexUIY5B_C7_Qe_AbDZOehqmCXOqJIX7C49fAg1KoDg' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">This was the first go. On reflection it was a good thing as since as far back as following my accident on what became the shard, I've been nervous about proper awkward lobs from height onto pads. Well this was that, and I coped. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I was going to leave that as that. My analytical brain however chose to blame my left tape glove, which had gotten chunky through reuse and reapplication of tape. Out came the shears and I jointed and butchered it, and rebuilt something from its guts. I also realised I've fallen on my most squidgy highball, pad, so swapped it over, bringing the newest pads in my most likely fall zone. Comfy now eh?</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Round two:</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/6XqkOgnpJjg" width="320" youtube-src-id="6XqkOgnpJjg"></iframe></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I called it Cherry Bomb, because it was fairly punk and rowdy. Also the beach is Porth Ceiriad. That, and Ethan is a big Guardians fan. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I think 6C+ to fit in with other boulder cracks. It's easier than Tosheroon and requires less precision than Randy Roof, harder than Big Bad Bari and Maneater. Probably similar difficulty to Nefoedd Wideboy. Boulder crack grades seem so compressed with a world of difference between 6C and 7A. Maybe if there was more of them it would spread out a bit.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">So happy and content, I can hobble away, wash away the blood, and look for my next fight. Probably a little closer to home.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">There's Treasure Everywhere </div><br />HoseyBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07146986140129451636noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-275668537772803979.post-7308734771505313122023-02-05T14:24:00.006-08:002023-02-05T14:24:38.516-08:00Burying the previous year <p> So another silent 6 months has passed, I've popped the odd thing on Instagram, but not really felt up to splurging on here. .</p><p>Rewind to October:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn7COXNFY31vXEGa2BBnVzvkAowzLrP9kuaDn1sW2Qt8MKczpPkCI4D-pEddZkzs7AuZp87Y7vLBYi-HfTEtTPZgQDW2iLlbAiDb0oS_E1HhJVayPXNVcnY3QM68lxE5ML3U9DPhxd8ZJDsyJCSmhgeLvzSagv1f4hvZlKLFHjU2c3Hsca1VsTMUdTsw/s622/VID_20221008_161818496_exported_48679~2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="585" data-original-width="622" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn7COXNFY31vXEGa2BBnVzvkAowzLrP9kuaDn1sW2Qt8MKczpPkCI4D-pEddZkzs7AuZp87Y7vLBYi-HfTEtTPZgQDW2iLlbAiDb0oS_E1HhJVayPXNVcnY3QM68lxE5ML3U9DPhxd8ZJDsyJCSmhgeLvzSagv1f4hvZlKLFHjU2c3Hsca1VsTMUdTsw/s320/VID_20221008_161818496_exported_48679~2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">By this point I'm trusting my ankle, having good sessions at the wall, I even started to try this new crack project..</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Then got carried away.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzw6S13kLCnd03Eon7YCUXV0WWvJjaTevAwRUdcpOPvl_MIkDqpq_t_dhRNH3-WRh72WiIjdXtmXSYArznII_onzAYC1KTueGvx29Mj_w01iCVI4hII5OZP-t0EClSNPAVFlcuVKtFpIcxCeTGiX-E4BRBBdS_YEDBisNEsyQ-RZN99OliK7e0t6eQTA/s3840/IMG-20221021-WA0005.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2160" data-original-width="3840" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzw6S13kLCnd03Eon7YCUXV0WWvJjaTevAwRUdcpOPvl_MIkDqpq_t_dhRNH3-WRh72WiIjdXtmXSYArznII_onzAYC1KTueGvx29Mj_w01iCVI4hII5OZP-t0EClSNPAVFlcuVKtFpIcxCeTGiX-E4BRBBdS_YEDBisNEsyQ-RZN99OliK7e0t6eQTA/s320/IMG-20221021-WA0005.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Basically, while I was dealing physically and mentally with my bust Achilles, I had stepped away from climbing.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">This meant no maintenance, no conditioning, I needed to compartmentalize that away.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">When I returned to climbing I was surprised by how little form I'd lost, possibly something to do with how long I'd been maintaining at a certain level of form. However what hadn't stayed the same was my connective tissue. 6 months of stress free living had made my pulleys soft.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Lesson learnt, a little maintenance goes a long way.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhGCgTw6Hk1sFVGZhhR7FaO3d7clW63fDZrrMLDfEamykfIqXVA3PFRvo8BwKwk45A1kBfgfCwgqeHLODnicERisLTeo3Q-pjHKfe3wAovlb5UMsVDfxfXWYT75t_K7vrFNjkZ3tqETLqxy4MfjhmJY8STHIzYXLOEdKDGcTYU8GlXWz3GaC3jHrLd7A/s4608/IMG_20221106_101033757_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhGCgTw6Hk1sFVGZhhR7FaO3d7clW63fDZrrMLDfEamykfIqXVA3PFRvo8BwKwk45A1kBfgfCwgqeHLODnicERisLTeo3Q-pjHKfe3wAovlb5UMsVDfxfXWYT75t_K7vrFNjkZ3tqETLqxy4MfjhmJY8STHIzYXLOEdKDGcTYU8GlXWz3GaC3jHrLd7A/s320/IMG_20221106_101033757_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">One finger max density hangs have been a real eye opener. I use bungies and a home made edge so I can just make myself uncomfortable. I consider these exercises key to my recovery. 10 seconds of pulling in half crimp, then rest a minute. Repeat 5 times.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I did this twice a week for two and a half months. Now I just do it once a week as conditioning and will do indefinitely.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">In the meantime I was going for the odd adventure with the kids, like exploring the woods </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDiNiz8ZGgZ4tRN-LgjpbPlfozmZAULwsF0z6x6CkklFc6XvLljoPTHiRpaf_aRa10ohhKAyUIesHz-k4ZCAydOfTHxycYPiiUzwkIxEfR8ocVJz9swqQ7JQLNijXsxmV_a6MXmKyBec4Hbnv5Ms87SX9_Lwpi7OFzwd3E-VH0eJGcWw2NG6L11A-YDA/s4608/IMG_20221206_150443365_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDiNiz8ZGgZ4tRN-LgjpbPlfozmZAULwsF0z6x6CkklFc6XvLljoPTHiRpaf_aRa10ohhKAyUIesHz-k4ZCAydOfTHxycYPiiUzwkIxEfR8ocVJz9swqQ7JQLNijXsxmV_a6MXmKyBec4Hbnv5Ms87SX9_Lwpi7OFzwd3E-VH0eJGcWw2NG6L11A-YDA/s320/IMG_20221206_150443365_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I even got an opportunity to walk up a mountain looking for cracks </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk_0OjWB3EsoEn8WUYmF7dP5TtyvfvrHD9vcjJ5L5C954rfYIqCiwQIAEZmJe6J9OS1sZpQ4LyeN_LuKJXmHtrk7hGAit6u5FeRYUURgnHCPm4CvySHqm5IIzDLUyyhRFXIXx11-tDxHGJ-66xBjL7w6jn-Js41W1ow0Yzvz7aMFdYeooUFqmMEDAp4A/s4608/IMG_20221125_132518499_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk_0OjWB3EsoEn8WUYmF7dP5TtyvfvrHD9vcjJ5L5C954rfYIqCiwQIAEZmJe6J9OS1sZpQ4LyeN_LuKJXmHtrk7hGAit6u5FeRYUURgnHCPm4CvySHqm5IIzDLUyyhRFXIXx11-tDxHGJ-66xBjL7w6jn-Js41W1ow0Yzvz7aMFdYeooUFqmMEDAp4A/s320/IMG_20221125_132518499_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjenSuzcz5TWcPZ0y43YHbo3UZscsI_7EyRG4opJlxVwCTAoEi_mo9BNtEl6V4NtaPNxb-PhhqZJF3jwTQK6W5THpS4-A4acv7yRP3_78KoG48gUft4U7MzRwmMq_HVuUfwLk8OcZ7CneJaUOB8fu4jOUsxbzce9r1tTRDGsqo7t60MZpLNq303xUPlrw/s4608/IMG_20221125_132409026_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjenSuzcz5TWcPZ0y43YHbo3UZscsI_7EyRG4opJlxVwCTAoEi_mo9BNtEl6V4NtaPNxb-PhhqZJF3jwTQK6W5THpS4-A4acv7yRP3_78KoG48gUft4U7MzRwmMq_HVuUfwLk8OcZ7CneJaUOB8fu4jOUsxbzce9r1tTRDGsqo7t60MZpLNq303xUPlrw/s320/IMG_20221125_132409026_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">They're a bit tall, not sure if they will be highballs or trad. I've not really tradded for 5 year's or more, so that might be interesting.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Finally this weekend Ethan and I returned to the crack</div><br /><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcYdVMKllgzG-_mXSw78yIaP4xhwW_UxxXj36gf4bv6omDJV6DCrDNYdDJ7Ob-PUTPuhtvQS7EX5-Gb_omMct5eDGHj1hwOiUfnEm22HIApRPI1NvnozHI8NSGaTpS9NDLAT0vyAwTaFzzVwtgs7-mzhNg629ssnyIg6Q9Bp6qECBCSnv9Runp1x1MwA/s4608/IMG_20230205_134450005_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcYdVMKllgzG-_mXSw78yIaP4xhwW_UxxXj36gf4bv6omDJV6DCrDNYdDJ7Ob-PUTPuhtvQS7EX5-Gb_omMct5eDGHj1hwOiUfnEm22HIApRPI1NvnozHI8NSGaTpS9NDLAT0vyAwTaFzzVwtgs7-mzhNg629ssnyIg6Q9Bp6qECBCSnv9Runp1x1MwA/s320/IMG_20230205_134450005_HDR.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div>Unfortunately, it was a bit wet and the tools I'd brought to remove the stuck log were insufficient. Even our make shift swing didn't pull it out.<div>Still, I had a good play, and was reassured that my fingers were back up to this sort of shenanigans.</div><div>Something for another visit.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPqUkxiCnmOeHpclV3zGxheUlIlCpxV5WLbYgGiqA5OPjt0fSRhfBynoyHJpwE8JY8mIIHs9MGD_Ib4eXOjxhSBftbnPfzr3xu1romyZAsPK1L719oqtRMLKV0GL1XB17eebxp8u7rbWOKLdlxbP9x1G_n5DvQBQsHxKXUyzsz-Tgyl1SPgiIkxYOw3A/s4608/IMG_20230205_142745187_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPqUkxiCnmOeHpclV3zGxheUlIlCpxV5WLbYgGiqA5OPjt0fSRhfBynoyHJpwE8JY8mIIHs9MGD_Ib4eXOjxhSBftbnPfzr3xu1romyZAsPK1L719oqtRMLKV0GL1XB17eebxp8u7rbWOKLdlxbP9x1G_n5DvQBQsHxKXUyzsz-Tgyl1SPgiIkxYOw3A/s320/IMG_20230205_142745187_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I'm really enjoying these adventures with the kids though. They have very little filter so are quite forthright and refreshing.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/IPQX0x0rwkU" width="320" youtube-src-id="IPQX0x0rwkU"></iframe></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Adventure awaits </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><p></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p></div>HoseyBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07146986140129451636noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-275668537772803979.post-29978296217469449842022-08-05T14:57:00.001-07:002022-08-05T15:04:51.172-07:00Back in the Saddle <p> So six months (ish) have passed. Lots of baby steps in physio, lots of little exercises. Walks and wanders, dreaming and scheming.</p><p>However, today I have returned to my love. Our of the asylum and back to the wilderness; boot and pad in hand.</p><p>Mr Fidler ( soon to be Dr no doubt) joined me in returning to a tentative loose end, found while on <span face=""Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #666666;"><a href="https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2019/05/deep-recon-on-a487.html?m=1">Deep Recon on the A487</a>.<span style="font-size: 24.48px;"> </span>The dolerite dominoes of Llyn Cymystradlyn may well be sandstone (I'm sure a geologist will tell us), but semantics aside, I can assure you of there provision of quality entertainment.</span></p><p><span face=""Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #666666;">The approach for starters, takes in an inordinate array of bracken and bog. It wasn't until our retreat that the local fishermen imparted the arcane knowledge that boulder hopping the shoreline was a lot drier and ultimately swifter then balancing hummock to hummock across the sprawling bogs.</span></p><p><span face=""Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #666666;">Once there, Dave got stuck into the big prize while I tentatively pulled on my comfy boots and looked for a lowball to toy with:</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dx9_L4A8Lw2ug_R8lzyOY5cFP5xgeIoSc5BMS9DbC1EX4ooX3Cjj70hFKq-skSBSqZwuICMsjNB_ZZuMvdrlA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /><span face=""Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #666666;">I was amazed how much I had to fight on the lowball, so low it probably deserved a ¡ After its lowly 6A¡.</span><p></p><p><span face="Trebuchet MS, Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="color: #666666;"><span style="background-color: white;">Dave fought hard to make links on the giant roof, but settled on its soaring arete, which jutted proudly over a jumble of distant death blocks, definitely a !!</span></span></p><p><span face="Trebuchet MS, Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="color: #666666;"><span style="background-color: white;">We had only taken a pad each, as we both had aspects of crippled on. These we placed under the bits where they could actually make a difference, leaving the void to take care of itself. Fortunately the finish was fairly straightforward. So he tells me. I didn't even attempt to pull on.</span></span></p><p><span face="Trebuchet MS, Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="color: #666666;"><span style="background-color: white;">This became Brithyll Saithliw 6C!!</span></span></p><p><span face="Trebuchet MS, Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="color: #666666;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span face="Trebuchet MS, Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="color: #666666;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/UAoW5kXVRr8" width="320" youtube-src-id="UAoW5kXVRr8"></iframe></span></div><span face="Trebuchet MS, Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="color: #666666;"><br /><span style="background-color: white;">All the while I kept flailing on my slopey ground hugging traverse, eventually it relented to give the Inconsequential Traverse 6A¡</span></span><p></p><p><span face="Trebuchet MS, Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="color: #666666;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span face="Trebuchet MS, Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="color: #666666;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/C8bjpCJAvQI" width="320" youtube-src-id="C8bjpCJAvQI"></iframe></span></div><span face="Trebuchet MS, Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="color: #666666;"><br /><span style="background-color: white;">Amazed at the heady heights I had achieved after only 6 months of semi-recumbant woodlice husbandry, Dave had a go:</span></span><p></p><p><span face="Trebuchet MS, Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="color: #666666;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span face="Trebuchet MS, Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="color: #666666;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/gMjAMNVkV7Y" width="320" youtube-src-id="gMjAMNVkV7Y"></iframe></span></div><span face="Trebuchet MS, Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="color: #666666;"><br /><span style="background-color: white;">Both flushed with this success, we retired to the lower tier, where I quickly scored another prize.</span></span><p></p><p><span face="Trebuchet MS, Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="color: #666666;"><span style="background-color: white;">This time it was Slopey Topscrittle; a lurchy F5</span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span face="Trebuchet MS, Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="color: #666666;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ppmajsrSBnQ" width="320" youtube-src-id="ppmajsrSBnQ"></iframe></span></div><span face="Trebuchet MS, Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="color: #666666;"><br /></span><p></p><p><span face="Trebuchet MS, Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="color: #666666;"><span style="background-color: white;">I then spent some time trying to be a wad, by brushing the holds to its right. This was mainly in vain. Although it did help to spur Dave onto furthering his efforts to cross the horizontal steepness:</span></span></p><p><span face="Trebuchet MS, Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="color: #666666;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span face="Trebuchet MS, Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="color: #666666;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/uBuclzmTTw4" width="320" youtube-src-id="uBuclzmTTw4"></iframe></span></div><span face="Trebuchet MS, Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="color: #666666;"><br /><span style="background-color: white;">Long video, but Well worth it for the banter.</span></span><p></p><p><span face="Trebuchet MS, Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="color: #666666;"><span style="background-color: white;">In between banter, I jolly well got another first ascent- This ones called Moby Dick (there's a whale..) another 5 probably.</span></span></p><p><span face="Trebuchet MS, Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="color: #666666;"><span style="background-color: white;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span face="Trebuchet MS, Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="color: #666666;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/7ZVX6Ipws98" width="320" youtube-src-id="7ZVX6Ipws98"></iframe></span></div><span face="Trebuchet MS, Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="color: #666666;"><br /> </span><p></p><p><span face="Trebuchet MS, Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="color: #666666;"><span style="background-color: white;">Laughter. That's what characterized this trip, that and joy, and bog. Plus a bit of choss.</span></span></p><p><span face="Trebuchet MS, Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="color: #666666;"><span style="background-color: white;">At this point Dave pulled himself together and climbed this:</span></span></p><p><span face="Trebuchet MS, Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="color: #666666;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span face="Trebuchet MS, Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="color: #666666;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Px_6cqpP_rY" width="320" youtube-src-id="Px_6cqpP_rY"></iframe></span></div><span face="Trebuchet MS, Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="color: #666666;"><br /><span style="background-color: white;">He called it Throwing Sheeps, due to my mistaking a herd of sheep for seagulls, and claimed it was 7B. I suspect he was being modest.</span></span><p></p><p><span face="Trebuchet MS, Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="color: #666666;"><span style="background-color: white;">We finished up a delightful afternoon by hunting for signs of the mysterious G Mawr, and stumbled on this rather pretty boulder that shows signs of cleaning:</span></span></p><p><span face="Trebuchet MS, Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="color: #666666;"><span style="background-color: white;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span face="Trebuchet MS, Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="color: #666666;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAUjT8Lq6Z2UluICY66U9lqfQMQb2BVEAofPfs9v0Xrx3hcHvT21DMNwIBSGN7bsZdr9CPdwlAWBWB-b50lmf6Rxgd82l-5OU7Yy6ATPOpDOXL3pFia_MO7he3YWEk3HwNMqPwfuSQ2JU3Sk91fNLTY4IoID9v-OhsWxn8zKLHzIP42Bb0CjWJKBjisw/s4608/IMG_20220804_162824309.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAUjT8Lq6Z2UluICY66U9lqfQMQb2BVEAofPfs9v0Xrx3hcHvT21DMNwIBSGN7bsZdr9CPdwlAWBWB-b50lmf6Rxgd82l-5OU7Yy6ATPOpDOXL3pFia_MO7he3YWEk3HwNMqPwfuSQ2JU3Sk91fNLTY4IoID9v-OhsWxn8zKLHzIP42Bb0CjWJKBjisw/s320/IMG_20220804_162824309.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div><span face="Trebuchet MS, Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="color: #666666;"><br /> If it hasn't been done before, you can call it Eog and it's about 6Bish ( the jumble of dominoes is in the background). It was too high for me to risk, and has a bum puncher block at its base. Shame really, if it was dug out it would be 3 stars good.</span><p></p><p><span style="background-color: white;">A great first return, I still have to be careful, lower my expectations, as well as the risk and the height. However, I'm reassured that by keeping a steady pace I can be back to being a loon by next spring.</span></p><p><span style="background-color: white;">A happy place.</span></p><p><span face="Trebuchet MS, Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif" style="color: #666666;"><span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span></span></p>HoseyBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07146986140129451636noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-275668537772803979.post-48228190925559915752022-07-01T02:35:00.004-07:002022-07-01T02:36:34.114-07:00I (still) Ate'nt Dead<p> I'm just over 4 months into my recovery from a ruptured Achilles tendon. I think I will be able to safely return to climbing in August, maybe.</p><p>It's been a bit of an emotional journey with lots of dips. I thought I'd be able to return sooner, once I could fully weight my toes. However there's more strengthening to do and a rerupture would be back to the beginning again.</p><p>Well reasoned words. What actually happened was I tried to climb, I even sneakily pulled on some holds outside </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz2aDXY0nbLqC1GIDCHgxuN4LB8Jka7Q66u2jZ0Kp2-GXiHOs9i5_dQztzcez8XCIPulstoP5ryQK1JbnT7atDpM8Dhw4h8Y3TZYMavrjxmFcgfH2uzYzgvPLkVfCLfXKW-DLjlPra4DmbQue1MatCyQ45Lm8OBwA_H0ytOkxnXsXMvEC-if6VrcyJmg/s4608/IMG_20220609_123713395_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz2aDXY0nbLqC1GIDCHgxuN4LB8Jka7Q66u2jZ0Kp2-GXiHOs9i5_dQztzcez8XCIPulstoP5ryQK1JbnT7atDpM8Dhw4h8Y3TZYMavrjxmFcgfH2uzYzgvPLkVfCLfXKW-DLjlPra4DmbQue1MatCyQ45Lm8OBwA_H0ytOkxnXsXMvEC-if6VrcyJmg/s320/IMG_20220609_123713395_HDR.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Nothing serious, just a damp visit to Porth Howel. All excited I went to my physio the next day.<p></p><p>"Returning to climbing would be a bad idea"</p><p>What does he know. . I'll text a bouldering physio..</p><p>"Not yet"</p><p>Next climbing physio.</p><p>"Keep strengthening "</p><p>Begrudgingly I aquiesced.</p><p>So it's been quiet on here, quiet on my Instagram too, just pictures of my distraction hobby; isopod breeding.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLP449kgXWfVbHRq6vTEfDTGtI126DgwKGRqZrLflZrI1Sfdzdsu1R603bmDIZFeI9aQ-8SmXIMi0RJvX6aKDuVfiQLHiaiukafg-Y0l9ulKKp083EDsburimfZHnS_OdBIiCo6Txzc89gRzdkfDXZy9G_hbGFIjvDWSfTkDLOM0uxonZTWC_AN1ViKg/s4608/IMG_20220629_191257586_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLP449kgXWfVbHRq6vTEfDTGtI126DgwKGRqZrLflZrI1Sfdzdsu1R603bmDIZFeI9aQ-8SmXIMi0RJvX6aKDuVfiQLHiaiukafg-Y0l9ulKKp083EDsburimfZHnS_OdBIiCo6Txzc89gRzdkfDXZy9G_hbGFIjvDWSfTkDLOM0uxonZTWC_AN1ViKg/s320/IMG_20220629_191257586_HDR.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>It's the invertebrate enthusiast equivalent of pigeon fancying, very geeky.</p><p>Other than that I've been trying to score parenting points, took one of my boys for a wild camp.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVZ7obhMSJ8PTdah55Axi6l9wsgqIRj2kgIMN_dtpEz_F4UGesQM4jNV47HnqZdUNojAx4lpkum0I3aiFMLPbHnDDbacwnDb42haFzFpuXMD6_CV9jgQxBUR6G5uQWeU0zVB0z5ZHUlzjU2sC1TaDOoSu3vyDxXbRYobSqhO1fWskioYX6aLLwqaH5XA/s4208/IMG_20220624_210455175_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4208" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVZ7obhMSJ8PTdah55Axi6l9wsgqIRj2kgIMN_dtpEz_F4UGesQM4jNV47HnqZdUNojAx4lpkum0I3aiFMLPbHnDDbacwnDb42haFzFpuXMD6_CV9jgQxBUR6G5uQWeU0zVB0z5ZHUlzjU2sC1TaDOoSu3vyDxXbRYobSqhO1fWskioYX6aLLwqaH5XA/s320/IMG_20220624_210455175_HDR.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>We got wet.</p><p>Other than that, micro-exploration continues. I have even made a second cleaning visit to <a href="https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2016/01/inspre-jan-16.html?m=1">This</a> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqDY0YceopLx1PA26hGwyQOw7TUZl1y_dkmnvfcN3NliKgKZILpaAgMCFwe8TtPjIgzrL9VpH6LLAiyF7fhC-NEOqW4p8yYa5_1YmjgjtvMTfIninj48biNv5ve7N1ee3PernymWyV8K9UVrRQqN6cW27epjfVSFBXOoPfns8huPXpPUK8d8DaF_u5tQ/s4608/IMG_20220630_204129234_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqDY0YceopLx1PA26hGwyQOw7TUZl1y_dkmnvfcN3NliKgKZILpaAgMCFwe8TtPjIgzrL9VpH6LLAiyF7fhC-NEOqW4p8yYa5_1YmjgjtvMTfIninj48biNv5ve7N1ee3PernymWyV8K9UVrRQqN6cW27epjfVSFBXOoPfns8huPXpPUK8d8DaF_u5tQ/s320/IMG_20220630_204129234_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>I was surprised to find some of the holds still clean</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikH9MU-Z_4odLZu5d59dpN_UORqUlUgJZG-186cWgTJ7ce-01A55U-7JEsok5juckKbWvFomCrxAvAF1XmxDDUtOXGiykioe5exjqOhWlVOKm41r1iv7L2_nXUzxMvILduwal_VSDv7d2zFwNP6o-mwrVqSVeHlr3Wu0J37nKq6qjFeIySzHeV3FWt8g/s4608/IMG_20220630_210149478.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikH9MU-Z_4odLZu5d59dpN_UORqUlUgJZG-186cWgTJ7ce-01A55U-7JEsok5juckKbWvFomCrxAvAF1XmxDDUtOXGiykioe5exjqOhWlVOKm41r1iv7L2_nXUzxMvILduwal_VSDv7d2zFwNP6o-mwrVqSVeHlr3Wu0J37nKq6qjFeIySzHeV3FWt8g/s320/IMG_20220630_210149478.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Has anybody done the second ascent? I'd love to know, I've never been sure of the grade.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Ho hum. Hopefully more news next month </div><br /><p></p>HoseyBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07146986140129451636noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-275668537772803979.post-16262877473874651602022-04-08T14:49:00.003-07:002022-04-08T14:49:26.547-07:00Here be Really Tiny Dragons<p> Well I'm now free of the boot and hobbling free. It's still early days, I'm certainly miles away from actually climbing again. However, I have discovered it's all in pretty good shape considering. </p><p>I took it for a test drive.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtCpLTa4BRTwXjT6xcXPEHKcg2JBlB5OcZsQTXcWGLyFRwYvYrQFHQ2HA8UCiynE2GKpzyCKRTpqd0hlV7xG7b4KLwmsUI9qWt8EAWxQI-cVKjDoQ6l1ergMXy5nnEKuhis3nKYNZNKwLIBNX6UNaMGcfBeIntQBrNc6b_azP00UfiP16z3TsIt5r5Jg/s4608/IMG_20220401_102334401_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtCpLTa4BRTwXjT6xcXPEHKcg2JBlB5OcZsQTXcWGLyFRwYvYrQFHQ2HA8UCiynE2GKpzyCKRTpqd0hlV7xG7b4KLwmsUI9qWt8EAWxQI-cVKjDoQ6l1ergMXy5nnEKuhis3nKYNZNKwLIBNX6UNaMGcfBeIntQBrNc6b_azP00UfiP16z3TsIt5r5Jg/s320/IMG_20220401_102334401_HDR.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div>Turns out with appropriate footwear I can get around a bit.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIbhZdwK_GbcmhXOLRrx1UE2Ezo0ET15oMw-kvdnfJQ4u2XP2PLC0dDbGL0PS-1YxPNMYjwHdsetdzVMGnNDddPZ0M2_Glvw0h3aAXsH9FImJWNjEGj0OzU_w-xyZC0TPSYT5C9Dzq9sk1kjaB8oti8e3YR3CXbePfxnMHaEpm-PaPTbqQzlhA7KvGZg/s4608/IMG_20220401_104155923_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIbhZdwK_GbcmhXOLRrx1UE2Ezo0ET15oMw-kvdnfJQ4u2XP2PLC0dDbGL0PS-1YxPNMYjwHdsetdzVMGnNDddPZ0M2_Glvw0h3aAXsH9FImJWNjEGj0OzU_w-xyZC0TPSYT5C9Dzq9sk1kjaB8oti8e3YR3CXbePfxnMHaEpm-PaPTbqQzlhA7KvGZg/s320/IMG_20220401_104155923_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Yep I also used a walking pole, and had to sit down occasionally, but with care and caution..</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEwP2zMTilxNCuHiWFQF_us7oxBg9zeqOwm95I7SxW9456SsgB9sgUoBniDxEP3xV2x1V-aCfVebvkyUNX1ePrrxr9kVLNeVF3zNDOzpBRQbq4_u5_ORD-AGsbg_mjpcT7MZRUEvq4goVc_o9NEh_tJhI0VKqaq7HyMKel35Mo9kvwDK9saRbT3aWuoA/s4608/IMG_20220401_112714900_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEwP2zMTilxNCuHiWFQF_us7oxBg9zeqOwm95I7SxW9456SsgB9sgUoBniDxEP3xV2x1V-aCfVebvkyUNX1ePrrxr9kVLNeVF3zNDOzpBRQbq4_u5_ORD-AGsbg_mjpcT7MZRUEvq4goVc_o9NEh_tJhI0VKqaq7HyMKel35Mo9kvwDK9saRbT3aWuoA/s320/IMG_20220401_112714900_HDR.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>I even coped with a little wilderness terrain.<div><br /></div><div>So early days, but the joy of going somewhere I haven't been before, (especially as it felt like somewhere people didn't go often ) Well. It made me feel myself again.</div><div><br /></div><div>The same time I was filling in the blanks on my personal map, a good friend and wind up merchant James Caff McHaffie was polishing off the original <a href="https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2009/07/give-away-project-of-month-july.html?m=0">Giveaway Project of the Month</a> from 2009.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_LYvs50k0rM8V1mh06_rbzaS1Wg-LwMZ7-QdRXBNGt8IaCcDM_ehVS2M0NxdOpcSG2_zkmcbCj9wNe83-gefbDNY_Ps6MXMLkBM9yokznqacUODKnJe9NTG-NPXMIeG5gRee_thp0ZT31c9NVBp0xBnuMSpFvBLAvnTfrhPBS3DYzZoJpeykZP7A43g/s848/IMG-20220330-WA0003.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="848" height="181" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_LYvs50k0rM8V1mh06_rbzaS1Wg-LwMZ7-QdRXBNGt8IaCcDM_ehVS2M0NxdOpcSG2_zkmcbCj9wNe83-gefbDNY_Ps6MXMLkBM9yokznqacUODKnJe9NTG-NPXMIeG5gRee_thp0ZT31c9NVBp0xBnuMSpFvBLAvnTfrhPBS3DYzZoJpeykZP7A43g/s320/IMG-20220330-WA0003.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div><br /><div>I was incredibly made up, as I'd been banging on about the Superprow for, well, 13years. I'd even tried it myself ( too scary) and was building a patio for future highballers. Caff of course added a couple of token stones and cracked on regardless.</div><div><br /></div><div>Since lockdown Caff has polished off four of my "Too much for Hosey" projects.</div><div>It's been really gratifying passing them on and seeing other people catch the vision I had.</div><div><br /></div><div>This got me thinking about how much I've explored versus either finding anything, or if I do, actually getting round to climbing these lumps.</div></div><div><br /></div><div>From the new perspective of temporary crippledom I'm realising that the hunt is as valuable (sometimes more so?) Than the capture.</div><div><br /></div><div>A bit of a Google search found I was not alone. <a href="https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.zhangschmidt.com/microexploration/the-new-age-of-microexploration/amp/">Micro exploration</a> has been coined to describe these events. In the past adventurers were drawn to the blank bits of the map. In the modern world, the blank bits are still there. You just have to zoom in a bit, basic chaos theory innit?</div><div><br /></div><div>All this is weighing on my mind, as climbing seems a long way off ( my gimpy toes only can take about 30% bodyweight). I'm coping with this by concentrating on being an explorer.</div><div><br /></div><div>My project book is all full of ticks ( mine and other people's) and some unclimbed rock has to be discovered to refill it.</div><div>Today I went here:</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcVj8j9sZpqnurvWPz2oT8gJJvMxtsOklM3goC2_OOHtpHtfw2XoLCDKhx9NGqr8219_-PqEerwhHkQw4Y14P-8p1pNJ_6lgJy3MCmGGSJt9iWjjeLxdyIf3ssGDK-eEeCt8ywLhU4YbVaewGNXq93pn6IKlLgpnZ6MyrIpXW3LPoUvAKt2dvGsYexHQ/s4608/IMG_20220408_123338802_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcVj8j9sZpqnurvWPz2oT8gJJvMxtsOklM3goC2_OOHtpHtfw2XoLCDKhx9NGqr8219_-PqEerwhHkQw4Y14P-8p1pNJ_6lgJy3MCmGGSJt9iWjjeLxdyIf3ssGDK-eEeCt8ywLhU4YbVaewGNXq93pn6IKlLgpnZ6MyrIpXW3LPoUvAKt2dvGsYexHQ/s320/IMG_20220408_123338802_HDR.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Random woods on the edges of the map. Not so much a blank bit, as a bit that's been doodled on, had some tea spilt on it and then dropped down the back of the bookcase.<div>It's these forgotten places that occasionally turn up treasure.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxr0BtnY792uMqS0JWksdIoVJDf7UynP17Qb9-eUeIAz8-WjvTxR7hr9_7COLb8BOV4-6saJpPsdAVFHfF9k9saHn5vo4jRj6uUw3k3t-M6fyegNH07t3gwXavUV601jyh4f3TtvqTnPxv7MAZDQdy0Vsc9HSfpK3Zg3ujyxORONeGDw5R68LQ_heqZw/s4608/IMG_20220408_122803444_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxr0BtnY792uMqS0JWksdIoVJDf7UynP17Qb9-eUeIAz8-WjvTxR7hr9_7COLb8BOV4-6saJpPsdAVFHfF9k9saHn5vo4jRj6uUw3k3t-M6fyegNH07t3gwXavUV601jyh4f3TtvqTnPxv7MAZDQdy0Vsc9HSfpK3Zg3ujyxORONeGDw5R68LQ_heqZw/s320/IMG_20220408_122803444_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQy-yIe3xRzYBaOMW3o1jXSwXRQKbtSdQ_co8RYzSHwMF5EnrLLwsG5KXOI5bW-dTwKs9hqxuUEphl4UfhttMllC_QwlJQ1a22kT0GGGiFlIeptpRdqbrvWQWcOm-inTe-drmh02aYRqTSBrJhTH5Veg-l6hnBzuIPw-12ba6gEmDMdiEtOZl2H_r1Yg/s4608/IMG_20220408_123938310_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQy-yIe3xRzYBaOMW3o1jXSwXRQKbtSdQ_co8RYzSHwMF5EnrLLwsG5KXOI5bW-dTwKs9hqxuUEphl4UfhttMllC_QwlJQ1a22kT0GGGiFlIeptpRdqbrvWQWcOm-inTe-drmh02aYRqTSBrJhTH5Veg-l6hnBzuIPw-12ba6gEmDMdiEtOZl2H_r1Yg/s320/IMG_20220408_123938310_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsFi8AW-_Yi5f0RckoGMfLvUCFgH6Q00B8WS2oZ5jAeBpYh5VkUHoKOktWp848rMB-PL12ogwJYZDCbdHcEXj1OhI9CKQuyb4aY2-1UeGMzRR3wiTSvaDRfOFvTKmn_fvbJPboyUM37nNLh-UMh6sqWq5EXpzHE546R3bGkYDRGq8RADNoNZ303BAIuA/s4608/IMG_20220408_125424385_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsFi8AW-_Yi5f0RckoGMfLvUCFgH6Q00B8WS2oZ5jAeBpYh5VkUHoKOktWp848rMB-PL12ogwJYZDCbdHcEXj1OhI9CKQuyb4aY2-1UeGMzRR3wiTSvaDRfOFvTKmn_fvbJPboyUM37nNLh-UMh6sqWq5EXpzHE546R3bGkYDRGq8RADNoNZ303BAIuA/s320/IMG_20220408_125424385_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrpAL4wIRQX8wDQyGSpLuZkEzcR1bRujpqkQTdx2f9PVqrhWklnMf7KqlV6GPVNaWT0luaRXPUgaoSSsaERS8G2h9UH00yCPi8HYtSRbx4kniH6lEA6dPcOILx8RBZPztHMmQMmOayyGxodqucKpsCwK_C4jCwKE1L7e_SjbI46BU3h1TD-SiMxb3P9A/s4608/IMG_20220408_132409948_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrpAL4wIRQX8wDQyGSpLuZkEzcR1bRujpqkQTdx2f9PVqrhWklnMf7KqlV6GPVNaWT0luaRXPUgaoSSsaERS8G2h9UH00yCPi8HYtSRbx4kniH6lEA6dPcOILx8RBZPztHMmQMmOayyGxodqucKpsCwK_C4jCwKE1L7e_SjbI46BU3h1TD-SiMxb3P9A/s320/IMG_20220408_132409948_HDR.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg14ygkPSMS8tRxEcIwS5-IYp3-pjyptkZNRQawvS0nAmKMqNbFk5yxDHfXcLjQgzaxmzjwpLAwPltJf8FV97Qq2I4exBJy2cGmyoEO2Oq2TPlRikBC0KBfAnEBZLs8t4kbssGsq7C5byDuvnr-rNsZZxp8SW_h0Y8slu6tqJUbheND6CDUq2fe5GkhPA/s4608/IMG_20220408_134156123_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg14ygkPSMS8tRxEcIwS5-IYp3-pjyptkZNRQawvS0nAmKMqNbFk5yxDHfXcLjQgzaxmzjwpLAwPltJf8FV97Qq2I4exBJy2cGmyoEO2Oq2TPlRikBC0KBfAnEBZLs8t4kbssGsq7C5byDuvnr-rNsZZxp8SW_h0Y8slu6tqJUbheND6CDUq2fe5GkhPA/s320/IMG_20220408_134156123_HDR.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioE76ZiqC3Hf1O7G66Sges4zSq3ifAK7TamPZeu6QD1pd6GzlhCXvqVJ3UReE6-YuHxiriexUl2tEvt7t1Bc7HVitGobl52UqYg-laF3C6YE7RTBpZWxJMii0ZZtITVTwR4SMnZzcxxTJRo0pUBLd3lzebfVljzJlZ6c29hrQ8Qbenje2RvzHhBr5cvA/s4608/IMG_20220408_135435248_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioE76ZiqC3Hf1O7G66Sges4zSq3ifAK7TamPZeu6QD1pd6GzlhCXvqVJ3UReE6-YuHxiriexUl2tEvt7t1Bc7HVitGobl52UqYg-laF3C6YE7RTBpZWxJMii0ZZtITVTwR4SMnZzcxxTJRo0pUBLd3lzebfVljzJlZ6c29hrQ8Qbenje2RvzHhBr5cvA/s320/IMG_20220408_135435248_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><div>So the gimpy foot generally behaved, apart from when a hidden stick snapping under my heel and shocking the system a tad. I can keep exploring and finding new happy places.</div></div><div><br /></div><div>There's treasure everywhere</div>HoseyBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07146986140129451636noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-275668537772803979.post-87795586105386316072022-03-03T02:56:00.003-08:002022-03-03T02:56:50.845-08:00Das Boot<p> Well last blog post I was exiting a low patch and combating the trials of a Welsh winter.. Spring is on its way and I'd started trawling through the memory sticks and phone caches for this year's motivation. Turns out I've got a few reasonable projects squirrelled away.</p><p>Unfortunately on a family day out I managed to perform a complete rupture of my right Achilles tendon while showing off to the kids.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi8c5ScmdBjTcGeEr5R5WYFw1nX9Kzfw-Hmnqo6eUVr6zrv7nEQgxyfU7x39-6ARAiAnhlt-XrpINCcsha7-djbajV00wQi2FU9Y8Ga_P4lzFbNyD-7AXS2RugCpHWUNyuTw6sd-fOUVIzjU1J5VhVn27laJcMcqNqodX83S-ahrQrfXJbomfMfhS6J9g=s3840" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3840" data-original-width="2160" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi8c5ScmdBjTcGeEr5R5WYFw1nX9Kzfw-Hmnqo6eUVr6zrv7nEQgxyfU7x39-6ARAiAnhlt-XrpINCcsha7-djbajV00wQi2FU9Y8Ga_P4lzFbNyD-7AXS2RugCpHWUNyuTw6sd-fOUVIzjU1J5VhVn27laJcMcqNqodX83S-ahrQrfXJbomfMfhS6J9g=s320" width="180" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>So I'm now in a bit of a pickle.</div><div>Given my recent low patch, you'd think I'd be circling the drain right now, but I'm somehow feeling quite chipper.</div><div>Ok this year is written off for bouldering. I think I maybe have climbed my last highball.</div><div>But..</div><div>This is a pretty good challenge...</div><div>As someone who has always been drawn to the adventure and challenges of climbing rather than the difficulty or max gainz, my immediate worry was that my drug of choice was cut off and I was going to fall down a toilet like Ewan McGregor in Trainspotting.</div><div><br /></div><div>But adventure is in the eyes of the beholder. I'm known for the esoteric side of adventure as it is, so exploring over nice level ground and sea cliff reconnaissance in my dinghy on very calm seas should provide suitable methadone adventures.</div><div><br /></div><div>Rehab, the process and what's ahead.</div><div><br /></div><div>I'm 2 and a bit weeks in, I was fortunate to be seen straight away in Ysbyty Gwynedd by one of their very experienced nurse practitioner's whose expert lining up of the ducks meant I saw the specialist the next morning and was straight into a vacuped boot rather than an Equinus cast. The first 2 week's were rough with self injecting the anticoagulant meds and enforced rest.</div><div>I'm now beginning a very tentative transition to weight bearing and leaving the confines of the crutches. I'm thinking this process will take 2-3 weeks. The coach in me has established I can currently support without pain about 3 stone of my body weight so pretty early days.</div><div><br /></div><div>In two weeks I get to adjust the boot to allow a heady 15° of movement in my ankle.</div><div><br /></div><div>I'm hoping to start driving again early April</div><div>Physio will start around this time.</div><div><br /></div><div>Easy walks are tentatively pencilled in to start around May refilling the project folder.</div><div><br /></div><div>Refilling as I've started giving away the higher or awkward to access ones.</div><div><br /></div><div>Summer I get the dinghy out.</div><div><br /></div><div>So yes. Chipper. New kinds of adventure, I'm even tentatively returning to my childhood hobby of exotic invert collecting, wife allowing.</div><div><br /></div><div>There's treasure everywhere..</div><div><br /></div><br /><p><br /></p>HoseyBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07146986140129451636noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-275668537772803979.post-73135445163342675132021-12-03T15:18:00.007-08:002021-12-03T15:18:57.041-08:00Dark Autumn <p> Well it rained a lot. And the family got Covid (all except me bizarrely)</p><p><br /></p><p>To be Frank, my motivation took a bit of a nose dive, I went back to Porth Howel, which was nice..</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1M3JlNdYDMbk_OJLMfVRmyF5unChZoKqY5if7zDzlToy4rYo3XHM2gS9oLeQ1GsC7iVru3cdbO5wEgYjvVNEzk1vlBXqntPF8_MgzWt52Fw98afLPNr3wiCZrlrIJim5KKcN74_JZ7_xw/s2048/IMG_20211011_094920.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1M3JlNdYDMbk_OJLMfVRmyF5unChZoKqY5if7zDzlToy4rYo3XHM2gS9oLeQ1GsC7iVru3cdbO5wEgYjvVNEzk1vlBXqntPF8_MgzWt52Fw98afLPNr3wiCZrlrIJim5KKcN74_JZ7_xw/s320/IMG_20211011_094920.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>The autumn storms had brought winter pebble levels. I was pleased to confirm that it didn't really make <a href="http://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2021/09/gabba-gabba-hey-or-how-everything-is.html?m=0">Barcode Punk </a>easier, and I got to repeat What a Difference a Wave Makes, which again was nice.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxDjJf9FECgnfBzKT9PH_SLUV_9NKL2mOHqMasbgXgW-PdrIVtE7_7s2okN1CNoTMGoCXRPnzutGu6MhT1WiQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>I also followed up a hunch and checked the prow project at the old Trefor pier.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEDrjAFTkvNs6RJA4WLtyG4qQI-HXwgvrcbP2KuOpNaJwzdXxhgav-n8c_sS-A4wk890AmtDV3AOoLtWH4bYD04JzSYwj7E86rmnxseJN6ARmtAgKc0dRcfGtU6tHq7gygrrgIRDwAi440/s2048/IMG_20211011_123925.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEDrjAFTkvNs6RJA4WLtyG4qQI-HXwgvrcbP2KuOpNaJwzdXxhgav-n8c_sS-A4wk890AmtDV3AOoLtWH4bYD04JzSYwj7E86rmnxseJN6ARmtAgKc0dRcfGtU6tHq7gygrrgIRDwAi440/s320/IMG_20211011_123925.jpg" width="180" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLblTREiV_FdJ-cHS5_pJWwPMs8VRN8WB-dYtLQ6boeh2PYE2WD2gRL36kRlOeaZPkTGmTRwz2lmKh_giapAEmO35x-iu3unAKlO-sSsjY2PtHvGmr89q72aS3xnbs6QyuRo4pilUBk0x2/s2048/IMG_20211118_135506%257E2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1354" data-original-width="2048" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLblTREiV_FdJ-cHS5_pJWwPMs8VRN8WB-dYtLQ6boeh2PYE2WD2gRL36kRlOeaZPkTGmTRwz2lmKh_giapAEmO35x-iu3unAKlO-sSsjY2PtHvGmr89q72aS3xnbs6QyuRo4pilUBk0x2/s320/IMG_20211118_135506%257E2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>So the big prow project is back on... There is a niggle in the back of my brain, and at this point I think the seeds of discontent were sewn. </p><p>I'll explain. </p><p>I've had a great year. Properly Stonking. The motivational boost provided by the new bouldering guide has meant that I've ticked a humongous amount of long term projects this year. </p><p><a href="http://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2021/04/business-time.html?m=0">The shard</a></p><p><a href="http://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2021/04/the-awkward-shuffle.html?m=0">George's crack</a></p><p><a href="http://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2021/08/the-tosheroon.html?m=0">The Tosheroon</a> </p><p><a href="http://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2021/09/gabba-gabba-hey-or-how-everything-is.html?m=0">Barcode Punk</a>... </p><p>But there is still so much to do, and the wave of success has to reach the beach at some point. Fear of Failure has been a long-term foe, one I have repeatedly defeated only for it to jet off like The Claw. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9CsQVbtvtjZXldjd-8EnJSQNzGmkAx0B774ogHVN8y5KlDgWsxWih6a1U0dLInNfAo-71ZA15n6AmUL7IeSCxduAW0nlGkLiuT1YoMjcObFSDA-MQWy13VADBs_AAP-1l-Y3HRXo39-1e/s450/Doctor_Claw+%25281%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="280" data-original-width="450" height="199" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9CsQVbtvtjZXldjd-8EnJSQNzGmkAx0B774ogHVN8y5KlDgWsxWih6a1U0dLInNfAo-71ZA15n6AmUL7IeSCxduAW0nlGkLiuT1YoMjcObFSDA-MQWy13VADBs_AAP-1l-Y3HRXo39-1e/s320/Doctor_Claw+%25281%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>Throw in some external stress, and it's quickly becoming a bit black. </p><p>Feeling burnt out is OK, feeling incapable and vulnerable is OK. Withdrawing a bit is not bad... But I'll be damned if I relinquish control.</p><p>So to try and break this low patch I went back to exploring. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">A bit of Google Swooping* found me a wood with a cliff in it and an adjacent public footpath.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">*flying round Google Earth with help from <a href="http://Geograph.Org.Uk">Geograph.Org.Uk</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPwbpcrgm6aAxEB77W0xrIM0cxGSNo1Fa6jqzzBsrhA5_mPh6wXKzxxP6GhT1avol7wxNK4HUIIZokuAU4D6GvXjyhtbw0QRv4F4Opc9x9SboZPBw0qIcOS_kFlJHWNrsd_F6mUnu9BXbL/s2048/IMG_20211118_095147.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPwbpcrgm6aAxEB77W0xrIM0cxGSNo1Fa6jqzzBsrhA5_mPh6wXKzxxP6GhT1avol7wxNK4HUIIZokuAU4D6GvXjyhtbw0QRv4F4Opc9x9SboZPBw0qIcOS_kFlJHWNrsd_F6mUnu9BXbL/s320/IMG_20211118_095147.jpg" width="180" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Path was closed due to an exciting bridge (well I enjoyed it).</div>Turns out the interesting path wasn't exactly public.. <br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNtwJ4Tph86_YBda5OQq5IfNI1uaGutJ1E93ClRu2vr33nlx5Ev6gW_JIkYfcVhKTAU8ni75URId41S60wsj1TAcva7ktIm2XqZWksrjCoip0b4H4nHh5ulsHAF5jUUXIP4vDxBpxOEcpg/s2048/IMG_20211118_114009.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNtwJ4Tph86_YBda5OQq5IfNI1uaGutJ1E93ClRu2vr33nlx5Ev6gW_JIkYfcVhKTAU8ni75URId41S60wsj1TAcva7ktIm2XqZWksrjCoip0b4H4nHh5ulsHAF5jUUXIP4vDxBpxOEcpg/s320/IMG_20211118_114009.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtq-bgjYiQygCS1DDuqV8cTLU-pbRhEi2DOwjO8xnr91omiqeZYlhAlwQU_46fXGNmlPY5cgVIkUVeMcqIw_nMbdt254j3qBlsqJpWU3Z98uu0NVf8J-jvesHu5QOIkPt-1KRu01gTheAL/s2048/IMG_20211118_112420.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtq-bgjYiQygCS1DDuqV8cTLU-pbRhEi2DOwjO8xnr91omiqeZYlhAlwQU_46fXGNmlPY5cgVIkUVeMcqIw_nMbdt254j3qBlsqJpWU3Z98uu0NVf8J-jvesHu5QOIkPt-1KRu01gTheAL/s320/IMG_20211118_112420.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Proper mushroom circle </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1yRkRWoX_5L4RR15jltComhGBSvxErJMwn5q9GmrJFcuFuNU3hXjCoCKpWJIQqevqPF0L-L_DXt1OMZRlXzudAWKeVs3FuOkNptU3PKxei8wWsCHyolLN4LGLza7TL7c7JzJx3VmcPutP/s2048/IMG_20211118_112809.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1yRkRWoX_5L4RR15jltComhGBSvxErJMwn5q9GmrJFcuFuNU3hXjCoCKpWJIQqevqPF0L-L_DXt1OMZRlXzudAWKeVs3FuOkNptU3PKxei8wWsCHyolLN4LGLza7TL7c7JzJx3VmcPutP/s320/IMG_20211118_112809.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Slightly too small boulder. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">There was a <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CWffcJHNZS9/?utm_medium=copy_link">massive and inaccessible cliff</a> in the wood, but by that point I'd had enough, and diverted myself along a contour to check out a dark roof in a cwm. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwz9zxGlK9zVQBpFXoEWhG_QHUImgNfyY_QoapGIqUBb_I3dE0qHh7OyeJ5NHMXvLNN-Ti2YALIqB_jIjvndK9WcZibu8DMFWyfWhCWZZRcxRh-aC1p-66ZIjyDC5zkT6QRK3bcWQ0R4xo/s832/IMG_20211118_121506%257E2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="701" data-original-width="832" height="270" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwz9zxGlK9zVQBpFXoEWhG_QHUImgNfyY_QoapGIqUBb_I3dE0qHh7OyeJ5NHMXvLNN-Ti2YALIqB_jIjvndK9WcZibu8DMFWyfWhCWZZRcxRh-aC1p-66ZIjyDC5zkT6QRK3bcWQ0R4xo/s320/IMG_20211118_121506%257E2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">English Sheepdog Sheep! </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgnznOBTi0evnsIV1l9Ri3lV356tWtNIiIZnu-2askkRo0JbSLiwolK1oLNwxuGtR0urIY-g43q4dJi0OTylSTdmSzQbussOTlkRwllwfbg7hc5Xr0877N0WvG5gtk3mjvywHCFMjKYKp2/s2048/IMG_20211118_123808.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgnznOBTi0evnsIV1l9Ri3lV356tWtNIiIZnu-2askkRo0JbSLiwolK1oLNwxuGtR0urIY-g43q4dJi0OTylSTdmSzQbussOTlkRwllwfbg7hc5Xr0877N0WvG5gtk3mjvywHCFMjKYKp2/s320/IMG_20211118_123808.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Turned out to be a slatey hole.. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">All in all a tad disappointing. I was lucky enough to get an actually sunny day, but with little psyche I diverted to more Google Swooping and a hunt for Tone's Golden Boulder. I found it, was underwhelmed, and quested on to see these reprobates:</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR_BWmzRwaiwX2fzQb07BgfAP8IB742WGUd86Lls4Jb8pznJvNRudW2SbEZi8EF6HyB7G2z5rqAA4wagpu3gPZltbKNDQf-X2d3t1o2BAisYON61KF2yp-GaUOdqLiedryVYAFPf62NOKc/s2048/IMG_20211122_123708.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR_BWmzRwaiwX2fzQb07BgfAP8IB742WGUd86Lls4Jb8pznJvNRudW2SbEZi8EF6HyB7G2z5rqAA4wagpu3gPZltbKNDQf-X2d3t1o2BAisYON61KF2yp-GaUOdqLiedryVYAFPf62NOKc/s320/IMG_20211122_123708.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqVrIT9ZczGf7EVx03qk6_IvsTZIoZsP_2Qr6HP_2gSZ23lkN4JPMq39kGqxWMKqrWkz1XG5SjoYJfpo7Chv3ZmuB-euVSVfVEmLNvhq9Glan_cguQXtEI6wsywKAbGFPdB50rjdF0zD0F/s2048/IMG_20211122_130718.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqVrIT9ZczGf7EVx03qk6_IvsTZIoZsP_2Qr6HP_2gSZ23lkN4JPMq39kGqxWMKqrWkz1XG5SjoYJfpo7Chv3ZmuB-euVSVfVEmLNvhq9Glan_cguQXtEI6wsywKAbGFPdB50rjdF0zD0F/s320/IMG_20211122_130718.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6ErCyrNY0urwUez6yXj96KYr1Mo6rkqRGgnaTFhZ9rjdRuAGHzUgDm3u4zsXSET6Jnw14NWwIlMZe_tR8HX1GpXg6plK8jgPIqInwZPYVmgt9UXMKDl5t1NpRtob510OtRseNSO01N98V/s2048/IMG_20211122_130703.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6ErCyrNY0urwUez6yXj96KYr1Mo6rkqRGgnaTFhZ9rjdRuAGHzUgDm3u4zsXSET6Jnw14NWwIlMZe_tR8HX1GpXg6plK8jgPIqInwZPYVmgt9UXMKDl5t1NpRtob510OtRseNSO01N98V/s320/IMG_20211122_130703.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Not rubbish, but not enough to pull me out of my slump. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Driven by a unhelpful desire to add to the forthcoming Nwb3.2 idid a last bit of Google Swooping and decided to check out <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CWq9tFCoGWD/?utm_medium=copy_link">Carreg Lefain</a>. I'd seen on ukc that the parking described in the Llyn guide was no longer welcomed by the land owner. Fortunately, the excellent work on the Mynydd Nefyn footpath network had meant easy access via a carpark just south of the crag. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Vbr3nBrLcSlOeKNl-iRyjeIvs5URHyaTe4fGUb12y20HIw3LteNxl2pygeNmIvptS1-2-NoKZ0wn0sGgMBKeZn2Ynv-e8v5xBSTzGgAaMuRfusz8NaYHMf6Wb8lZDuKL6iE2gFxXBFpM/s2048/IMG_20211124_092600.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Vbr3nBrLcSlOeKNl-iRyjeIvs5URHyaTe4fGUb12y20HIw3LteNxl2pygeNmIvptS1-2-NoKZ0wn0sGgMBKeZn2Ynv-e8v5xBSTzGgAaMuRfusz8NaYHMf6Wb8lZDuKL6iE2gFxXBFpM/s320/IMG_20211124_092600.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">The crag itself looked ace, almost tempting me to dust off my rack and revisit in the Spring ;</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5vIZQdQKjTqXqgg2fbCsXOGAp9MEA1qTh8uDAknDI89K_XWTIgU-gTw6VFFdugvx_vAt_jiCYSjDQznWVM-UsGrpA_RqbdrrLQF-G7lzGGu8hFhCxmisorpT9x8lmROTmIagF5ZPsjl7R/s2048/IMG_20211124_102350.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5vIZQdQKjTqXqgg2fbCsXOGAp9MEA1qTh8uDAknDI89K_XWTIgU-gTw6VFFdugvx_vAt_jiCYSjDQznWVM-UsGrpA_RqbdrrLQF-G7lzGGu8hFhCxmisorpT9x8lmROTmIagF5ZPsjl7R/s320/IMG_20211124_102350.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Slight digital photobomb.. A couple of boulder bits at the bottom, but no pot of gold. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDck0PcLQR7mS6C82ySXVhSjatMFVCaBqOkroEFMlkG9AjA9mOn_vBUKwJUm8qjQyvVh1guG47gmpK0kr3M_zj-07ELL8D6tn1JZRnroIp8VJVMQBz0v8FUedyafHkzfkNeOqTl68dOJWc/s2048/IMG_20211124_103107.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDck0PcLQR7mS6C82ySXVhSjatMFVCaBqOkroEFMlkG9AjA9mOn_vBUKwJUm8qjQyvVh1guG47gmpK0kr3M_zj-07ELL8D6tn1JZRnroIp8VJVMQBz0v8FUedyafHkzfkNeOqTl68dOJWc/s320/IMG_20211124_103107.jpg" width="180" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">In nearby mynydd nefyn quarry I found a cool looking crack.. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmF1THNHe2uHwa7r7Kfdy7d8d9aKdqxHdIZmbdp4ftMEpmYlQ7lxSzHhd73aTxpy6ai-eeETpgxsnJ0usoggtTTdvo81J8F73szJ2ywrazAesvbLKA68-Gctrj_PJz4JIyqDrXim-jOtyn/s2048/IMG_20211124_103155.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmF1THNHe2uHwa7r7Kfdy7d8d9aKdqxHdIZmbdp4ftMEpmYlQ7lxSzHhd73aTxpy6ai-eeETpgxsnJ0usoggtTTdvo81J8F73szJ2ywrazAesvbLKA68-Gctrj_PJz4JIyqDrXim-jOtyn/s320/IMG_20211124_103155.jpg" width="180" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">And a too small but perfectly formed microgranite boulder. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">So yet another disappointing ramble, at this point I swore off further Llyn exploration.. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkxfLQcbfIq7ApBXyKn2FXkLj48Mi6bjizQJMWoFM6YsOC-zWfOGFWiKtCdrvVlssj2UOLc1eHIFRPO8Khqpu2Qluf11uXo9gIknQdgBTjPal6rXk6LlEXDPU57gHLDa-1WnAOjRctNzO8/s2048/IMG_20211124_094444.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="270" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkxfLQcbfIq7ApBXyKn2FXkLj48Mi6bjizQJMWoFM6YsOC-zWfOGFWiKtCdrvVlssj2UOLc1eHIFRPO8Khqpu2Qluf11uXo9gIknQdgBTjPal6rXk6LlEXDPU57gHLDa-1WnAOjRctNzO8/w480-h270/IMG_20211124_094444.jpg" width="480" /></a>(though I might come back for Gwylwyr quarry). </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">What finally snapped me out of the doldrums was an indoor climbing session with my wife. I hadn't lead climbed apart for when I was setting for months, and it was fun just trying stuff and getting pumped.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It's OK to fail if you're having fun.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Find your own fun, this may not be the same as other people's fun. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">That's OK too (within the usual societal boundaries ofc). </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Thus I found myself going to an old venue, in an unfashionable out of the way spot. I'd told myself that I'd try some of the easy stuff I'd scoped out. However, I soon got sucked into old projects. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzt8NFUgYGJ1Iq3nhPvJp7Fap2OfiNjrYOmDaGDXwzkcPkN5wgvGJXqozaTEnAevHQCpAfobgMUpmX3SfSEXA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So I'm now looking forward to trying, Failing and maybe succeeding on random things that I find fun. I'm putting aside tick lists for a bit (save some for next year). </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I hope the rest of the winter will be a bit drier, but I won't base my happiness on it. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Finally I probably wouldn't have exited this wallow quite so speedily without the support and heckling of my wife and kids, and the shadowy network of professional banter merchants known as the Pebble Helms (cheers lads). </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Keep me posted on any virgin offwidth sightings.. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I'll try not to leave it so long between blogs, but there's always the <a href="https://instagram.com/mark.hoseyb.dicken?utm_medium=copy_link">Instagram</a>.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Forward Always </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>HoseyBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07146986140129451636noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-275668537772803979.post-76699343462689930062021-09-12T01:43:00.001-07:002021-09-12T01:43:14.379-07:00Gabba Gabba Hey! Or how everything is better when Listening to the Ramones<p> "Punks not a product, its zest for life" </p><p>-Milky Wimpshake "<i>Barcode Punk</i>" </p><p><br /></p><p>Once more I find myself poured utterly into a project. Riffing on training ideas an Macgyver-ing myself any advantage I can scavenge. It all sounds very romantic, but it's mainly blood and sweat and dribble.. However, there are worse situations to be in than sitting on my favourite beach in the drizzle. </p><p>The following was written live from the trenches, as it were... </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ1Ab_cIdahuOOmmdTVn4mNkQR9A9T2816zyjyKa2Q6fzzRlXfTTv_o9wrf2hMM9hNJ0Kn9jopp2_5hNC9rQNrpkjHpeqMDuaqDCEwJ6weT4r6spDWSAFC7M5Cyxznx1JrY7jtHMW1vLsy/s2048/IMG_20210818_110638.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ1Ab_cIdahuOOmmdTVn4mNkQR9A9T2816zyjyKa2Q6fzzRlXfTTv_o9wrf2hMM9hNJ0Kn9jopp2_5hNC9rQNrpkjHpeqMDuaqDCEwJ6weT4r6spDWSAFC7M5Cyxznx1JrY7jtHMW1vLsy/s320/IMG_20210818_110638.jpg" width="180" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb7lVy7EqzGWtyyJ7UZhUK_8nAT600qirLEEv7QhvtLQ2WXQNi-Se0qKbdWMPn4lwscUD0UvJ19nJRNUNJf1fYaI3zhM-pJXAF9zU53zaC0nnLd-sVlxTA6n7nrPXducS2jPemQZtF56xL/s2048/IMG_20210818_122330.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb7lVy7EqzGWtyyJ7UZhUK_8nAT600qirLEEv7QhvtLQ2WXQNi-Se0qKbdWMPn4lwscUD0UvJ19nJRNUNJf1fYaI3zhM-pJXAF9zU53zaC0nnLd-sVlxTA6n7nrPXducS2jPemQZtF56xL/s320/IMG_20210818_122330.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p></p><p>Once more I lounged below the roof of the Idiot Kings, watching the drizzle turn the grey beach into a riot of colour as the pebbles gloss and shine. For a moment it was like a <a href="https://instagram.com/kevinloweryart?utm_medium=copy_link">Kevin Lowery</a> painting. It's never a chore at Porth Howel, although getting out the car into drizzle was an exercise in will power. However, there was beautiful sun over Trefor, and it was dry in Pistyll. Yr Eifl was just toying with the clouds that's all. As I write this the birds shrill out and the drizzle clears. Hope springs eternal.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA4sCG6wXy_GDyoq9ErH5_Ly17H_BhvIlEi8HxhvI3D8sW7yjp8mWes9lNralTnrbNz3HvD_xT3Nj2KIdMLdHuvZeTWJ_U6TZvHy0eqcJEHBdpTRYakOJ7G7heHSHgRw6Ek9ujKw6AO-mB/s2048/IMG_20210818_113711.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA4sCG6wXy_GDyoq9ErH5_Ly17H_BhvIlEi8HxhvI3D8sW7yjp8mWes9lNralTnrbNz3HvD_xT3Nj2KIdMLdHuvZeTWJ_U6TZvHy0eqcJEHBdpTRYakOJ7G7heHSHgRw6Ek9ujKw6AO-mB/s320/IMG_20210818_113711.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtzH05bpsE_QkmCEo7znDpo-4sbJ7q9HNlKRzCN-Z-7O94bHJv5kVfXQzK70IV2ZSloksJazdvpIPMzTTXUnzwXXz48b3YRIt6glho9n6I8DAcHISWqzyHNYIIXsIK0DBMUxb-0VNFpcIe/s2048/IMG_20210818_114832.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtzH05bpsE_QkmCEo7znDpo-4sbJ7q9HNlKRzCN-Z-7O94bHJv5kVfXQzK70IV2ZSloksJazdvpIPMzTTXUnzwXXz48b3YRIt6glho9n6I8DAcHISWqzyHNYIIXsIK0DBMUxb-0VNFpcIe/s320/IMG_20210818_114832.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>The rake works well on the smaller pebbles, but it's length (breadth?) means big pebbles can dislodge it from its path. A change in grip and some close work soon deals with this. The traverse is excavated, all is required now is the connies.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Exw_jsN7yOnV4ux2nEX3YWsys5BLagTblkNswZLLGP8qSEBTNfsXF8ASFmZ49d90dXFKjOCy30W42zdkRTCL-UUaiFHU3De51OkGOWdGWJMK4EHIkgS1yrvc_ExSvy1YJDt3N8lLIY7X/s2048/IMG_20210818_120412.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Exw_jsN7yOnV4ux2nEX3YWsys5BLagTblkNswZLLGP8qSEBTNfsXF8ASFmZ49d90dXFKjOCy30W42zdkRTCL-UUaiFHU3De51OkGOWdGWJMK4EHIkgS1yrvc_ExSvy1YJDt3N8lLIY7X/s320/IMG_20210818_120412.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p>I was very close to packing it in, in fact I'd packed up and was just noseying around the other side of the bay which I'd yet to focus on. Walking back to the bag I saw the pebbles were starting to grey again.. Let's not jinx it, time for lunch.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimd85uPVxbtXHwUAG0dzrpJiTtcGKsUwtM7v0tPk4vw2EouldUXG6KsMPyaM0vfW0irnQLho-34CUwRXM7Dihzkyw0Udt2zamM-swpM6NQUyU40tsZK6PsBnY2F2W6xo_tCA2-mmpE9oCB/s2048/IMG_20210818_123759.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimd85uPVxbtXHwUAG0dzrpJiTtcGKsUwtM7v0tPk4vw2EouldUXG6KsMPyaM0vfW0irnQLho-34CUwRXM7Dihzkyw0Udt2zamM-swpM6NQUyU40tsZK6PsBnY2F2W6xo_tCA2-mmpE9oCB/s320/IMG_20210818_123759.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>The drizzle returned. I packed it in.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnD5yrgrPP49tkUmaeW8rNKEddFel9k2ZxI2iJOnCgMl0f4HrJ59Bpjm6pf4l0q7UDZ-85CGAGcyWWWFvCOu8Lv3BWokn_GAjbHrzCCdwQBXb6GFCFvoVM4QANnRzWefTo_4EQxCPVFpIu/s2048/IMG_20210830_104656.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnD5yrgrPP49tkUmaeW8rNKEddFel9k2ZxI2iJOnCgMl0f4HrJ59Bpjm6pf4l0q7UDZ-85CGAGcyWWWFvCOu8Lv3BWokn_GAjbHrzCCdwQBXb6GFCFvoVM4QANnRzWefTo_4EQxCPVFpIu/s320/IMG_20210830_104656.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>Next visit I returned rake in hand to be greeted by a lack of rain and unfortunately a lack of breeze. </p><p>My previous work with rake (my Macgyver-ing outside the box) seems to have stuck. </p><p>I still set about improving the crater around the lowest foothold, chuckling that by Christmas it would be 2 foot up the wall. The traverse project on the Wall of Something Dead is something I'd toyed with for years, always trying left to right. The moves through the alcove were nails and I never really got that far. It wasn't until <a href="https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2021/06/broken-hallelujah.html?m=0">earlier this year</a> that I tried it right to left and the moves unlocked.</p><p>The subsequent burying of the footholds by the summer migration of the beach was something that I had initially reconciled myself to had niggle at me following success with the Tosheroon. Hence my purchase of the uber Rake. It was soon altered to my needs; chopped to fit better in a pad, and a rubber foot so it could be used as a walking pole /crutch.</p><p>This first dry visit back was a bit of an eye opener, as it all felt loads harder. Basically I'd spent the intervening months climbing on my fists, and I now had to remember how to use my fingers. It wasn't a complete waste though, as I was able to throw myself repeatedly at the crux and work out exactly what was required for success.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyfqcsKcIeB3tJNuTNwJ7ZtT-Cd4PVZe-RZy9jK9JtyaN_PzojAPh7BvLR9uq8wDj-4dXl8brwqYsYgrqr7pp7Al_yuiG5dLR13nhVd2arUw_6VoPxTY9gdESH_lUDWpaiIdnMBoiTxOeZ/s2048/IMG_20210628_110834%257E2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1716" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyfqcsKcIeB3tJNuTNwJ7ZtT-Cd4PVZe-RZy9jK9JtyaN_PzojAPh7BvLR9uq8wDj-4dXl8brwqYsYgrqr7pp7Al_yuiG5dLR13nhVd2arUw_6VoPxTY9gdESH_lUDWpaiIdnMBoiTxOeZ/s320/IMG_20210628_110834%257E2.jpg" width="268" /></a></div><p>The traverse is about 23 hand moves long, with a jug one third in. Past this I've never really been able to Chalk up, so took my bag of at this shake point. Leaving the jug the moves get steadily more dynamic and powerful switching from crimps to pinches to fat slopey layaways. The key was positioning your body to enter the next move, and that meant foot work. Footholds required attention. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpjMghPZNyIhF39kxCEdnNah9SPb6BSJrHc-LsaI03ec1xulhxjv-Uq3oh3f7Qx9uxBM4KgGcy8MFH1fpBddAELPT3frDKn-9CM8iRadgVbbvtmlfMCkELaRycNRe38KD5DpYKViukVDfE/s2048/IMG_20210628_110826%257E2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1764" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpjMghPZNyIhF39kxCEdnNah9SPb6BSJrHc-LsaI03ec1xulhxjv-Uq3oh3f7Qx9uxBM4KgGcy8MFH1fpBddAELPT3frDKn-9CM8iRadgVbbvtmlfMCkELaRycNRe38KD5DpYKViukVDfE/s320/IMG_20210628_110826%257E2.jpg" width="276" /></a></div><br /><p>Brushing off the sand, Washing off the salt crystals, squeaking the hell out of them. Triaging their value, and marking the important ones, tactics and tricks, trying really hard.</p><p>Having exhausted my time there I trudged back to the car, past some walkers with a dog, who started barking excitedly. I commented that he must have loved the cows further up. The owner replied it was fine with livestock, it was that I was walking up the hill with a massive rake..</p><p>The following week and a half I bouldered lots at the wall, crimping and pulling and throwing myself around. Of course this hurt, and I overdid it, causing various old man issues. However, it did leave me feeling a bit more prepared. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWyNxA8FyKXd_D253kYnAoJ1PHKDRu2OPXKNg_m-_fM8YE-vA7R7epxS3Vohezj6hj5dascj8H-Gix0QoyiVmzezVuTHaIFlCgaaIExBBgvpzK1lddy0OAGd9iL1BOxDvocKMxo9JbmA5g/s2048/IMG_20210908_104459.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWyNxA8FyKXd_D253kYnAoJ1PHKDRu2OPXKNg_m-_fM8YE-vA7R7epxS3Vohezj6hj5dascj8H-Gix0QoyiVmzezVuTHaIFlCgaaIExBBgvpzK1lddy0OAGd9iL1BOxDvocKMxo9JbmA5g/s320/IMG_20210908_104459.jpg" width="180" /></a></div><p>When the next session opportunity presented itself, I decided to instead take a small hand fork.. It was very effective, and could be hidden from canines. The opportunity was more driven by availability than conditions, as it was still unseasonably hot, and the tide was large and swiftly encroaching.</p><p>Confident that the actual traverse would be non tidal I set out to have a play, give my fingers a workout, and continue my footwork on its journey from pantomime horse to primo ballerina.</p><p>The waves were gently lapping over the Seaward wall as I did my little pilates session. The beating I'd given my body during the week was proving to have been positive as I flowed through my little crimpy set pieces. Although after these preparations I still took 8 or 9 goes to latch the crux.</p><p>I changed the foot positions for an earlier hard bit on a whim and found it made it much less dropable. After this I had exhausted all my little bits of noodling prep, and it was time to set up the camera, stare at the sea for a bit, an then have a proper go.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwu5_h68j1wHkrPx62bOuJmpStHwSyRPuvq5o56KLmVdMEkTHmytDLMJFT4g6SNuOL-3Tsb6ulvFjZodh57wg' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><p style="text-align: center;">Dab.</p><p>Following that I had a bit of a digging session. I was feeling OK, and keen not to loiter too much at the jug. Rather than dragging my chalkbag to this point, I just put a little pile on the jug itself. Tadah!</p><p>Flushed with innovation I rubbed some into my trousers like the cool kids.</p><p>Next go.. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/D812_YMBOZc" width="320" youtube-src-id="D812_YMBOZc"></iframe></div><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://youtu.be/D812_YMBOZc">Barcode Punk 7A</a> </p><p>I'd deliberated over the name as most of the wall was Ramones themed, and I was initially keen on R.A.M.O.N.E.S. for the songs energy. In the end it was Milky Wimpshake's word smithery that won out. I'd also convinced myself that it would be 7A+, but no way I could have done that grade in these connies with this body. </p><p>Another tick on my post lockdown To Do list. Might have it finished by Christmas. </p><p>There's Treasure Everywhere. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcPax9XNnHD48Vte67W-PogrnzvUdZZFHofPOKQvw0fI-B3Jk_kQyHYegQG8bLE0upyCLFf9IdzDTTTNmOzP3pLGG_rE4k69UT8tUKzrPrqTGOX0aM9cuM5NbbCBz0Rzq22wDPdXT9X9ZS/s917/IMG_20210830_142842_907.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="917" data-original-width="917" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcPax9XNnHD48Vte67W-PogrnzvUdZZFHofPOKQvw0fI-B3Jk_kQyHYegQG8bLE0upyCLFf9IdzDTTTNmOzP3pLGG_rE4k69UT8tUKzrPrqTGOX0aM9cuM5NbbCBz0Rzq22wDPdXT9X9ZS/s320/IMG_20210830_142842_907.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p>HoseyBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07146986140129451636noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-275668537772803979.post-50018187239233865282021-08-25T15:02:00.009-07:002021-08-26T09:26:59.361-07:00The Tosheroon <p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3e14vAXGpZQZbQzyT-G25DLg1dsRMUsWq1Bja9vYa27s1hrDobc-NxlWNFnCBKZsL7lv3KMyim1viW4kO-GeUaSwHqGl3b6zcjLruMtdO8OZVd_0V_0nS-XWkGaAuqWEBINZpCI82kjDm/s1440/Screenshot_20210824-224013.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="720" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3e14vAXGpZQZbQzyT-G25DLg1dsRMUsWq1Bja9vYa27s1hrDobc-NxlWNFnCBKZsL7lv3KMyim1viW4kO-GeUaSwHqGl3b6zcjLruMtdO8OZVd_0V_0nS-XWkGaAuqWEBINZpCI82kjDm/s320/Screenshot_20210824-224013.png" width="160" /></a></div>This is my phone. I've had this wall paper for about 7 years, passing from phone to phone.<p></p><p>The picture was taken on <a href="http://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2015/04/tosheroon-opening-this-years-account.html?m=1">this trip</a> in 2015, however, my first discovery of this special sea cave was in <a href="http://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2010/07/giveaway-project-of-month-july.html?m=1">2010</a>, I think on new years day, when a man mate took me out for some Anglesey sport climbing. The climbing turned out to be a little too chilly to be enjoyable, but a gentle wander at low tide with a much needed flask of coffee led to its fortuitous discovery.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2-L0tOY8WYayLJPwozE4GVGxemMbjFBN5tm2qmv_nLlXyQKEyg1MQ9t9JbgaQzUrgz3HJ8-lZ61VWp7JIe9An7Tl5HDAzViQ1u2Fmg6ha_EbZdInbUTaqA0_v5LfdXgY8vWQ7YC6njJ3K/s320/sea+crack+out.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="320" data-original-width="240" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2-L0tOY8WYayLJPwozE4GVGxemMbjFBN5tm2qmv_nLlXyQKEyg1MQ9t9JbgaQzUrgz3HJ8-lZ61VWp7JIe9An7Tl5HDAzViQ1u2Fmg6ha_EbZdInbUTaqA0_v5LfdXgY8vWQ7YC6njJ3K/s0/sea+crack+out.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>Put off by... Well everything really, it took 4 years almost to the day for a <a href="http://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2014/01/first-pootle-of-year.html?m=1">return inspection</a>. That first trip I had campused the entrance to the cave and looked at the exit. I was sufficiently excited to return that I talked some friends into returning later that <a href="http://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2014/02/open-project-of-month-february.html?m=1">month</a>. The climbing deep in the cave turned out to be really interesting, possibly fun even. Accepting the nature of the challenge was key, it was never going to dry out, chalk was pointless. Barnacles added to the 'fun' adding much needed friction, until you applied too much pressure and they dissolved to slippy paste. The high point of this initial session turned out to be a familiar one. Boxed and flailing at the end of the constricted section.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKt6DQurPcJHrojDPIMZmr-Pdr5SpEFdjlZWCe6kw93QZeL15FdpBaGe4IhBydYWZQ8dm9vRInBcTgjeEbiM03Gpg_J0ixEunN0ft3jUjaVhmKaAcISbtf-MlYBnzeCJWxuZWmcTxTpqaD/s2048/IMG_0132.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1367" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKt6DQurPcJHrojDPIMZmr-Pdr5SpEFdjlZWCe6kw93QZeL15FdpBaGe4IhBydYWZQ8dm9vRInBcTgjeEbiM03Gpg_J0ixEunN0ft3jUjaVhmKaAcISbtf-MlYBnzeCJWxuZWmcTxTpqaD/s320/IMG_0132.JPG" width="214" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>Some time in 2014 two things were decided.. </p><p>Firstly, that trips should be undertook in the warmer months, as the cold trip meant major gashes off the barnacles due to lack of sensitivity in the hands. This also led to myself almost breaking my hand squeezing the life out of a jam I couldn't feel for fear it would slip.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI6TChHULeRTWpYSTJd83sQFd-83VsGoHsNF2YRvqymAuvriVyMqVTlM7821m5ua2vhcd6e6erm6qBeYWAVeZn9J-jXVQIU9Yc3fRNlNh3aV1DejsZMMsuJV8T18EwNNGi2u4F_1bLNZjW/s2048/IMG_20210810_180542.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI6TChHULeRTWpYSTJd83sQFd-83VsGoHsNF2YRvqymAuvriVyMqVTlM7821m5ua2vhcd6e6erm6qBeYWAVeZn9J-jXVQIU9Yc3fRNlNh3aV1DejsZMMsuJV8T18EwNNGi2u4F_1bLNZjW/s320/IMG_20210810_180542.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p style="text-align: center;">Denizens of the Tosheroon cave.. </p><p>Secondly, the name of this project. As a keen new router, I often find a name presents itself well before eventual success. Furthermore, it often helps to spur me on to greater efforts. The Tosheroon was a term appropriated by Terry Pratchett in his</p><p> book 'The Truth'. Officially an old English name for a half crown, in the <a href="https://wiki.lspace.org/Tosheroon">Pratchett universe</a> it is defined as:</p><p>"a lump of debris and rubbish made of the mud and gunk found clogged in drains. While they appear worthless, tosheroons can contain valuable items, such as old coins, lost rings and alike." </p><p>It seemed fitting, as while this project on first appearence should on paper be everything we run away from, it contains treasure.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTgi6Z9g6l3Bcyjm1OY-VIJczF_iAcLDUT3M-Ch7JdhhlAqc_yPGoFo-Ge0PP3YG2H0Ev2LU3ybnCkYS41DPU-ggpMC4YoxfzyktcpIacLp_buEGxTZsopFzubOyWv05qrLx6OGJhtWRqv/s1024/11+nothing+left.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="684" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTgi6Z9g6l3Bcyjm1OY-VIJczF_iAcLDUT3M-Ch7JdhhlAqc_yPGoFo-Ge0PP3YG2H0Ev2LU3ybnCkYS41DPU-ggpMC4YoxfzyktcpIacLp_buEGxTZsopFzubOyWv05qrLx6OGJhtWRqv/s320/11+nothing+left.JPG" width="214" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>So first trip back after that was in April 2015 during an unfavourable tide. I took the opportunity to scare myself and SWS down the crack reversing the (thankfully dry) HVS ground deep into the wider squeeze section. This left me with only 2m of uncovered ground.</p><p>Looking back, I was still doing a lot of bold trad at the time (I'd climbed <a href="https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2014/09/this-is-bat-country.html?m=1">Twll Love</a>, a bold E5 in Twll Mawr the previous autumn) and attempts this year to repeat this feat resulted in whimpering retreat.</p><p>Next proper attempt was that <a href="https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2015/05/tick-report-april.html?m=0">May</a>. Once more I failed to clear the constriction. That September Seren my daughter was born and thoughts of offwidth fitness were put to bed for a while. I visited in <a href="https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2016/03/t-is-for-tosheroon.html?m=1">2016</a>, but only to shoot some beta footage. </p><p>Fast forward to <a href="https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2019/07/approaching-official-operating-speed.html?m=1">Father's day 2019</a>, and one of my son's Ethan, having flicked through the pics on my phone, decided I should go back to Benllech. It got me re-energised for the project, especially as the pebble level had risen and evened out making it feel more boulder and less intimidating.</p><p>Returning at the end of the month, it was the <a href="https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2019/08/grinding-to-finish-line.html?m=1">old team</a> again. Back with some form of fitness, and having a couple of years of digesting tactics and possible options off all the previous decades footage, I felt hopeful. However, the crux exit of the constriction still eluded me, as the previous 4m was knackering me too much to try a whole lot of things before I plopped off. Another issue was the narrow tide window which only allowed 3-4 goes before retreat became necessary.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIIM6G6YOs7V_hCBJiUJU67iTQKUe4f41_i0w5w6KTH4NTUyDqCEoFHwBJw2CC41VsaSOGsc5m7b0ugWH4cVtmer2R4fLvlVyNU-doiuRpWnuBv8LjPKMTjVfCH-Jfh0PdzODs9C3dp7y4/s280/FB_IMG_1566235804486.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="280" data-original-width="186" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIIM6G6YOs7V_hCBJiUJU67iTQKUe4f41_i0w5w6KTH4NTUyDqCEoFHwBJw2CC41VsaSOGsc5m7b0ugWH4cVtmer2R4fLvlVyNU-doiuRpWnuBv8LjPKMTjVfCH-Jfh0PdzODs9C3dp7y4/s0/FB_IMG_1566235804486.jpg" width="186" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>Another year and covid came along, the Mountain volume of NWB took my time and attention and The Tosheroon bubbled away at the back of my mind. It had been suggested that my ground up approach might be supplemented by a step ladder, that opened my eyes a bit. With the coming of the summer and the coastal NWB looming, I was keen to put this monster to bed, and with a favourable tide window for 16th July 2021 it was scribbled on the calendar. Post covid, the old team had gone their separate ways and I was given the challenge of enticing new faces to the project.</p><p>Fortunately for this opening salvo the reliable Mark Reeves was willing to come and heckle. We were also joined at short notice by that lover of all things niche; the Fiend. Needless to say the session was banter heavy, and I somehow managed to get out of the construction into the wider squeeze. However, in my 1000 yard stare state I'd become fixated on the right wall of the cave (possibly due to the extensive examination of it from the step ladder - didn't bring it again). The video is a bit long, but worth it for the running commentary :</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/fY_Hz3riSmc" width="320" youtube-src-id="fY_Hz3riSmc"></iframe></div><br /><p>At about midnight that same evening I came to the realisation that I should have switched to face the other way. Picture Dr Emmet Brown exclaiming "Great Scott!" and you get the idea.</p><p>Next visit (25th July) was with a mutual acquaintance of Fiend and myself, who Mr F thought would be keen. He wasn't wrong - Rafe turned out to be a power house of enthusiasm and encouragement. The ladder was left at home, and instead a rather large stack of pads was bundled to the beach. Once more I'd cleared the constriction, but by then the barnacles had managed to rip both my tape gloves off:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dylasXPvsfAu_PzTsjzV2ooRkbdVN1w0MceSNHpU8HN2XYJmPG1wp3sPz09wjaeZoaYa4eFy0oYBhJKa3pYsQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzbCNYqAYRPgMU-6_ZL4oiW8hW6L6HDsbsc-YjL3DoNb9OgyKGD50KbExDk9TDgXXzACtlAKgdajvY4UTepeS30deckpLIwaMI-jr-GefMD4APHiKYmKQMfoK68tcB4vNUu0YmnoTo1J58/s2048/IMG_20210725_204718.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzbCNYqAYRPgMU-6_ZL4oiW8hW6L6HDsbsc-YjL3DoNb9OgyKGD50KbExDk9TDgXXzACtlAKgdajvY4UTepeS30deckpLIwaMI-jr-GefMD4APHiKYmKQMfoK68tcB4vNUu0YmnoTo1J58/s320/IMG_20210725_204718.jpg" width="180" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Rafe giving it some </div><p><br /></p><p>For the next trip (10th August) I was to be joined by both Fiend and Rafe, and I set about retiring my old foamies and traced some new 2mm foam rubber templates. I've been building my tape gloves around these foam pads for about 18 months now and I'm finding they give a good compromise between the efficiency of a pure tape and the convenience, and let's face it bulk, of a jamming glove (I have small fists).</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju8JgL5e5c8KSpMTijnMhZpYx9fVKUFYbiE8BGOtpA1CXe77jhFGIuid2SD32kNsu25YblWvptAHvnt8Y8cCuc-JLAyYRiC65vz7lmJyrwxPs5fu8rrvUqHS7SkKWHgmc55s-eWQa0TOoS/s2048/IMG_20210726_191532.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju8JgL5e5c8KSpMTijnMhZpYx9fVKUFYbiE8BGOtpA1CXe77jhFGIuid2SD32kNsu25YblWvptAHvnt8Y8cCuc-JLAyYRiC65vz7lmJyrwxPs5fu8rrvUqHS7SkKWHgmc55s-eWQa0TOoS/s320/IMG_20210726_191532.jpg" width="180" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9l9Z7WQOzqzVKAh-8LmQe9cO0ahrDPFG-TYk-Kx0FiUjynuAIpguuQR0JPeFCwSOaOhyphenhyphen-n5_m0Su8w8NliCcBQbgGDsw9jNeYiqL5QRhwSsYzt9IQ4Ot6JOEeg-IOEKyA3AIiPsp-uz_W/s2048/IMG_20210726_200511.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9l9Z7WQOzqzVKAh-8LmQe9cO0ahrDPFG-TYk-Kx0FiUjynuAIpguuQR0JPeFCwSOaOhyphenhyphen-n5_m0Su8w8NliCcBQbgGDsw9jNeYiqL5QRhwSsYzt9IQ4Ot6JOEeg-IOEKyA3AIiPsp-uz_W/s320/IMG_20210726_200511.jpg" width="180" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2P4Okun9wZPSHOStz98r0jrSUMYzRvdM-y_iDST76A-sp8ZsXHtNxbGw7sMULh-JCpXX6W_TqiY8q0-DPz7K_L3rmdlP4ToqTxqIpXzp3d50PwZcptgNFx8PJaIL20A7hNhWA9t0gK4JE/s2048/IMG_20210726_200745.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2P4Okun9wZPSHOStz98r0jrSUMYzRvdM-y_iDST76A-sp8ZsXHtNxbGw7sMULh-JCpXX6W_TqiY8q0-DPz7K_L3rmdlP4ToqTxqIpXzp3d50PwZcptgNFx8PJaIL20A7hNhWA9t0gK4JE/s320/IMG_20210726_200745.jpg" width="180" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>Once again Fiend bought the banter, but I was still unsure of the exact sequence of circus tricks required to establish me firmly on the left wall. I also prevented an early ejection from the roof with a dyno-bar of my right knee.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiamaVCJ47mbcXkBZOLa0isbJWMT1V9iTTbRs7B8CnmnTo7vEPOtTnS0HZKOPBS05EGip0kqIduSQJrp-7HE3_ZDfbP-K-jNzoknZzDo2oL4Iwj7VMmn5KaMWjRIYwi5_6HgN0-jk9Yj4Oy/s2048/IMG_20210813_144655%257E2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1586" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiamaVCJ47mbcXkBZOLa0isbJWMT1V9iTTbRs7B8CnmnTo7vEPOtTnS0HZKOPBS05EGip0kqIduSQJrp-7HE3_ZDfbP-K-jNzoknZzDo2oL4Iwj7VMmn5KaMWjRIYwi5_6HgN0-jk9Yj4Oy/s320/IMG_20210813_144655%257E2.jpg" width="248" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">The aftermath </div><p><br /></p><p>After that I was running somewhat on fumes. Good laugh though:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyQnOxETEGsrw0yeh21CzIoaFCcJz_90jILcGSuDsabySZntFytki7GrtsDlPwO6RhLaDZsoa28L_iqdgKTNA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>The next available tide window was the 23rd of August. Unfortunately nobody could come with me that date. I felt quite nervous about this as the tide window is narrow. A low spring tide is needed which gives about 3 hours of access before completely submerging the cave again. Not somewhere to have an accident. However with only about 2 tide windows a month being available to me, and winter looming, I needed every session. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikgptajdjr_GUhv5XQi7X2wmF-aFZw4Pv2vviYBdcXkKPvCkO8BMtdENU32T3s-KgskRolhj2RnNqTyOOrWnTioYUkantpCCpUFwDL5y1ycfdLU8d8RWOXHqQN06BsOmMQOxUcZQ5E6zw4/s2048/IMG_20210725_204741.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikgptajdjr_GUhv5XQi7X2wmF-aFZw4Pv2vviYBdcXkKPvCkO8BMtdENU32T3s-KgskRolhj2RnNqTyOOrWnTioYUkantpCCpUFwDL5y1ycfdLU8d8RWOXHqQN06BsOmMQOxUcZQ5E6zw4/s320/IMG_20210725_204741.jpg" width="180" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>I set about finding as many things that could provide an edge as possible. MMA knee sleeves under my trousers, a slimmer £3 headtorch off ebay to stop it catching. Hell, I even bought an led dog collar (not useful in actual action unfortunately). I also flicked through P-Widdy's crack book and set about converting my foamies to a vedauwoo wrap. </p><p>I had some kind words of encouragement from fellow jam heads and general deviants, and although still nervous, I stumbled onto the beach to find a lone fisherman toying with his rod. Although I left him to his practice and scuttled into my cave. Knowing that he was there had a calming effect. </p><p>Once the four pads I managed to Sherpa down were in place, I did a bit of pilates and a couple of pull ups, and set about the rigmarole of taping up. After this I did a bit more pilates and reacquainted myself with the technicalities. This basically meant bashing a few bits with a towel and adding some tick marks with a fat stick of Chalk I'd nicked off of Seren.</p><p>First go. First meter felt really good, once into the kneebar pivot from feet first to burying myself head first horizontal in the roof.. Well the pump and scrabble kicked in a bit. However, I got to the crux and had a bash until the wheels came off and I dabbed while suspended by a solitary teacup jam.</p><p>The first go had done its job and the blood was pumping into all the nooks and crannies. I lay on the pads and thought about all the peeps who believed I could do this. I waited for the heavy breathing to subside, and then waited some more. </p><p>This is an unabridged video of the second go. It's very long, and there is no Fiend to liven it with commentary. Also the lighting was a bit poor so you can't make out loads of the initial bit. However, here it is :</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/9jPc2y9LZpI" width="320" youtube-src-id="9jPc2y9LZpI"></iframe></div><a href="https://youtu.be/9jPc2y9LZpI">Arghh it's not embedding, the link is here</a><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">I wasn't smooth in starting and almost lost my kneebars getting into the roof. The jams through this bit are hard won and I kept slithering onward, expecting them to rip. Getting to the end of the constriction I was on two teacups bumping my left kneebar forward and it slid out. </span></div><p>Slight wolverine moment, primal driving rage. Not sure how but next thing I know my right kneebar is buried in the roof and I feel solid. I can bump the right teacup to a high fist and twist out onto the left wall. </p><p>My foot is on the first tick mark. Please don't skid off the barnacles. Next thing I'm extending into the rafters, open barring and feeling for help. Holds appear, I can pull into an upright squeeze position. The balcony at the end of the horizon is near. Slowly deliberately, I slide on a bum cheek. I'm there. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2aRvVqARRVe3xZqS5GuJXjfqoD1NwBNu9ZpsH-CLgeIDG61sc4gOjPCTKEkcbY-yVXTx92MGBYvpQK3l7i1B4GkKjY9I-L85bczRw7eLLaem15YDA6GjvlCVEKJ5SOMiA5F3KZblaqER9/s1920/VID_20210823_5247036293170349653.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1920" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2aRvVqARRVe3xZqS5GuJXjfqoD1NwBNu9ZpsH-CLgeIDG61sc4gOjPCTKEkcbY-yVXTx92MGBYvpQK3l7i1B4GkKjY9I-L85bczRw7eLLaem15YDA6GjvlCVEKJ5SOMiA5F3KZblaqER9/s320/VID_20210823_5247036293170349653.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>Having a moment just to be happy I took in my surroundings. It was a still and humid day, the crag above was still wet from sea spray, not the dry hvs I soloed 6 years before. I could just plop of the ledge and call it done. The Tosheroon I had envisioned was a crack climb, pulling off the deck and climbing until at the top of the crack, or at least the crag. I probed out, up and further outwards trying to breach the soggy defences. A stretch off a fist gave a dry jug and I swam back into the crack where I could bridge and get some more jams (best weapons against the sogg).</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJxdyyxyvGInQkCegMuX7MxEl0eVlp3SpTg0_n22uzPQzaW_CWCkhE3NcZAxlQCVbSmVhW6vgBEBaWCsF0ACi9txfiVYtquDNyE4FRfDb7o7vn9BM1JoULDecZrBZrU1WkzrRW-zxGOUsC/s1920/VID_20210823_3291009001796302399.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1920" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJxdyyxyvGInQkCegMuX7MxEl0eVlp3SpTg0_n22uzPQzaW_CWCkhE3NcZAxlQCVbSmVhW6vgBEBaWCsF0ACi9txfiVYtquDNyE4FRfDb7o7vn9BM1JoULDecZrBZrU1WkzrRW-zxGOUsC/s320/VID_20210823_3291009001796302399.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>A whimper and a grunt and it was over. The memories remain. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqXBtkNygJppj7n8h7Tu3hjGBtsWl12L1rgzs93xPYjnevEXl-FcvpbWL4ixSjkgvha1B-80gK6SZS5XlTYnqFt1TxcjBMR5kxbM4Jg958ihTewrxGOCaYxr7kiG1M3hPVC8MFFgv5K6-S/s1087/VID_20210823_6423380695360024484%257E2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1087" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqXBtkNygJppj7n8h7Tu3hjGBtsWl12L1rgzs93xPYjnevEXl-FcvpbWL4ixSjkgvha1B-80gK6SZS5XlTYnqFt1TxcjBMR5kxbM4Jg958ihTewrxGOCaYxr7kiG1M3hPVC8MFFgv5K6-S/s320/VID_20210823_6423380695360024484%257E2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>The Tosheroon 7A+! </p><p>(could be MXS 6b, might be easier although my support team scoff at this. Let's just say Hard Very Marvellous) </p><p>Benllech hidden wall beach, around the corner. Needs a tide window based around a sub 2m low tide. No Chalk required, maximum skin protection advised. </p><p>Start 8m in at a chockstone in the roof. Leave the ground and battle bravely to the light and the jutting balcony. If you get here, pat yourself on the back and feel free to hop down. Those mad enough may, like the first ascentionist, want to battle to the top of the crack, but unlike him, please have someone to rearrange your pads. </p><p>Mark Dicken (23/8/21)</p><p><br /></p>HoseyBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07146986140129451636noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-275668537772803979.post-51841745394497804392021-06-30T09:13:00.000-07:002021-06-30T09:13:04.082-07:00Broken Hallelujah <p> So intention versus reality. Life and work have once again conspired against me, as well as an unhelpful dose of apathy. I'm still down on my offwidth training, hard to motivate myself to boot the kids out the way after a late shift.</p><p>Instead I've been focusing my attention on Porth Howel, sprucing it up for the forthcoming Coastal volume of North Wales Bouldering.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq1s1pT6B9WwppDwUqF3KyoxCaQEc0iVQPYLYtvMwuNMCi6cR_u-4sBbXfrOSv4l1Ex2yamvVPdrRTRwJf1ZEEfEYSGInr9JYMpkoPD07Tp_mIDvCIsMXVP9iEhQgs9YCmjwatxjOvvPNk/s2048/IMG_20210429_200523.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq1s1pT6B9WwppDwUqF3KyoxCaQEc0iVQPYLYtvMwuNMCi6cR_u-4sBbXfrOSv4l1Ex2yamvVPdrRTRwJf1ZEEfEYSGInr9JYMpkoPD07Tp_mIDvCIsMXVP9iEhQgs9YCmjwatxjOvvPNk/s320/IMG_20210429_200523.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>I am deeply smitten with this tucked away quarried cove. Despite the fact its at the bottom of a big hill, and the height of the pebble beach varies seasonally by over 2 metres! At least it is vaguely predictable.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9SnaUfYxwgHtgWlvsyVvZO1OLwYtmHq5ZJCLH18DGJg3VOQ6iZNS3ENN3dvszVs22z5x2plHLGPf1pFgHJ4v77WAyWhXeNdpJtmfA_kVfM2oIuVwxwv-Jlcs8XZnja9hEmgqjDShxeW5q/s2048/IMG_20210429_195108.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9SnaUfYxwgHtgWlvsyVvZO1OLwYtmHq5ZJCLH18DGJg3VOQ6iZNS3ENN3dvszVs22z5x2plHLGPf1pFgHJ4v77WAyWhXeNdpJtmfA_kVfM2oIuVwxwv-Jlcs8XZnja9hEmgqjDShxeW5q/s320/IMG_20210429_195108.jpg" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>First port of call was the Seaward wall, and having another go at a highball arete that scared me off last time, as I could not work out how to top out, and had to reverse to ground. Having scoped out the top and decided that discretion was the better part of valour, I scoped out a flying ramp of footholds leading into the top of paradise groove. This proved to be key, but still very scary, and The Dread Pirate Roberts was born (at about 6A+!) </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Sv8avGwbh3Y" width="320" youtube-src-id="Sv8avGwbh3Y"></iframe></div><br /><p>The pebble level had risen on the Seaward wall. One move less required on Seams Dynamic, and 2 Jugs was now a sitter. I had intended to try the lower seam traverse, but it had become too bumshuffly. However, the upper seam gave a lovely traverse I dubbed Bird is the Word as the tide was coming in, and couldn't risk a mat. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/TnCETLMoHrM" width="320" youtube-src-id="TnCETLMoHrM"></iframe></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>I then started working the low level traverse of the wall of something dead early this May. I'd always been unable to work out how to cross the alcove below Blitzkrieg Bop, and a bit of a seige was taking place.</p><p>A eureka moment occurred when I stopped trying left to right and switched direction. A series of big dynamic throws between pebble smoothed side pulls deposited me at the starting jug of 53rd and 3rd - the game was afoot!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6eOof6g366ZdXb7w0SOPsLAM98Sq0Y6cnHVAFT8GYFugy4bbaf0fs57qMH_lozjotvZW7YLRBMk7wr6glTUT4K9zCNXSDa3iiLpjKELgQ4IVf1wB-afKonybRSgL8x31R3esRr6szkoif/s2048/IMG_20210628_110737.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6eOof6g366ZdXb7w0SOPsLAM98Sq0Y6cnHVAFT8GYFugy4bbaf0fs57qMH_lozjotvZW7YLRBMk7wr6glTUT4K9zCNXSDa3iiLpjKELgQ4IVf1wB-afKonybRSgL8x31R3esRr6szkoif/s320/IMG_20210628_110737.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Starting jug of 53rd and 3rd </div><p>However 2 weeks later when I could next visit the pebbles had begun their inevitable march towards summer height. The crux section was unchanged, but a berm of pebbles had swiped the footholds of the easy section. Even worse, I couldn't repeat the crux. Like the enthusiastic beta hound I am, I dove into unlocking the new challenges, and surprised myself by linking to the start of the crux. I was however now out of beans.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKVVqzR2rf9_ZGi-NrsyhJT4r7XS02lo5RjpfiV1lLp0XYpbOZE3aU6pR1BsC8d2hRVH5AonWAiHY5ukBHbVbmZ4g0qH5XJLx-hRlPCHMYn0CqsHuWyI8faKtYaJuzzJbkSSRh6XC0AUqD/s2048/IMG_20210628_110826.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKVVqzR2rf9_ZGi-NrsyhJT4r7XS02lo5RjpfiV1lLp0XYpbOZE3aU6pR1BsC8d2hRVH5AonWAiHY5ukBHbVbmZ4g0qH5XJLx-hRlPCHMYn0CqsHuWyI8faKtYaJuzzJbkSSRh6XC0AUqD/s320/IMG_20210628_110826.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Key pinch #holdnerd</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p>Next session I found all was as before, and I buckled up for the red point. Starting with a proper core and flexibility warm up I moved onto nailing the crux a couple of times. Then it was rest, rest, try, rest.</p><p>It was not to be, however I was made up that on my last go I made it as far as blowing the last hard move of the final crux. I was sure it would go next session.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvOw0HjlkpfzjsAuAfQXkHUTvXjrp2pb4W7uUJSY7kjMTYdFh6kO8RUi6J-iNa9j4l7G3auLzrV2L9BksHCoo6arPYWKGSfHD14bkfNlNbKmaoe_3E5sIxAdh1-OHe26I0ZWLtV03VHAfi/s2048/IMG_20210628_094351.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvOw0HjlkpfzjsAuAfQXkHUTvXjrp2pb4W7uUJSY7kjMTYdFh6kO8RUi6J-iNa9j4l7G3auLzrV2L9BksHCoo6arPYWKGSfHD14bkfNlNbKmaoe_3E5sIxAdh1-OHe26I0ZWLtV03VHAfi/s320/IMG_20210628_094351.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>Next session the pebbles has swallowed the footholds of the alcove. End of play until they recede in the autumn.</p><p>Having made the journey all the way here I was somewhat disappointed. I was determined to turn these lemons into lemonade. The higher pebbles meant the line over the alcove was less scary than usual. The natural higher line over the alcove would lead into The Rail (down to a nice 5C with this pebble height). After looking at right to left, I decided it would flow better as a natural extension to The Rail starting at the 53rd and 3rd jug. This still necessitated me to dig out a starting foothold, luckily not too deep.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0lHw-w764kyjr-QcnkYpG6DUnr6vMnL5DDIaHBP66fStm-wvW98q4tnEkAIPX6AkRZi2udy2Xsnw4_8pN98MmDi4jeg-5OQp5hN7KLUQVczLxXVs2mAkFRl2dD4cibBio9dFtYh95RP8X/s2048/IMG_20210628_100423.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0lHw-w764kyjr-QcnkYpG6DUnr6vMnL5DDIaHBP66fStm-wvW98q4tnEkAIPX6AkRZi2udy2Xsnw4_8pN98MmDi4jeg-5OQp5hN7KLUQVczLxXVs2mAkFRl2dD4cibBio9dFtYh95RP8X/s320/IMG_20210628_100423.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> The moves into the launch crimps of Blitzkrieg Bop were quite strung out for me, but a cunning foot jam (and a bit more digging after a pebble dab) led to:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Overarched 6C </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/P1ka8Ia2xNs" width="320" youtube-src-id="P1ka8Ia2xNs"></iframe></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Satisfied, I retired to return once the summer pebbles sucked away.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Next is Tosheroon. The imminent arrival of a guide is always a double edged sword; Excitement at a chance to be documented is tempered by the anxiety that your house is not in order. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Despite my troubles in motivating the necessary training ethic, I intend to role the dice and hold things lightly.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Do or do not, there is no try. </div><p><br /></p>HoseyBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07146986140129451636noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-275668537772803979.post-70675912748750516052021-05-30T06:32:00.001-07:002021-05-30T06:32:14.138-07:00Training montage <p> With the <a href="https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2016/03/t-is-for-tosheroon.html?m=1">Tosheroon</a> clearly in my sights for this year, the month of May heralded a special little trip. I had, during lockdown, identified a series of crack boulders I hadn't tried. With 3 of them all being down the end of the Lleyn, I had hatched a plan to try and get them all done in a day. A suitable tide was found at the end of May and duly written on the calendar..</p><p>Well blow me if the weather actually played ball and all the green lights flashed. Of course all the suplimentary training I had planned leading to the event failed to materialise, but this could be a benchmarking exercise instead. I wasn't going to waste the weather!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhijzVoAPJ-X4YZKNSj7sGK_3px8LKmRQ6za3PHJ8lZ0Ozf8S_r2nPWKpw6EGynb-HNHUcWNEwVIWqsHhbCNbhSziJ2jCgS4UPGP3pjzMRowWEswc6Y2jSHieio-WOTmLW46IOuZrOurxJg/s2048/IMG_20210525_103937.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhijzVoAPJ-X4YZKNSj7sGK_3px8LKmRQ6za3PHJ8lZ0Ozf8S_r2nPWKpw6EGynb-HNHUcWNEwVIWqsHhbCNbhSziJ2jCgS4UPGP3pjzMRowWEswc6Y2jSHieio-WOTmLW46IOuZrOurxJg/s320/IMG_20210525_103937.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>Porth Ysgo looking lovely, however my first target was Maneater at Talfarach. This venue is not the easiest to negotiate on your Todd, but once the big orange was located and its spongy patio made base of operations, I could get taped up and crack on.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3CVTb2gj_vzbSFv0kimCjVwAWOhm9A4WnSFos0mIo_OCl3rbaAsUfkIpgd30fBGjT4gBYfxw6J_2wsTQxPV7Vm4f2NEQYQ9wixFTkyaP1z0RkZzT-8dNLEpG_v973a-EZaz7F5QJ6jn9q/s1920/VID_20210525_3095358344481315181.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1920" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3CVTb2gj_vzbSFv0kimCjVwAWOhm9A4WnSFos0mIo_OCl3rbaAsUfkIpgd30fBGjT4gBYfxw6J_2wsTQxPV7Vm4f2NEQYQ9wixFTkyaP1z0RkZzT-8dNLEpG_v973a-EZaz7F5QJ6jn9q/s320/VID_20210525_3095358344481315181.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Not posing (honest) but identifying feet. I was very pleased to get this onsight (it's about 6C) although once committed above a typical talfarach landing I wasn't planning to come off. It played well to my strengths as it was basically fists and bars. The low crux being leaving/ mantling the fists into the bar /squirming section. The vid is below for geeks and insomniacs, although it took 5 minutes to to cover a little over 6m so you've been warned. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ymak60Q6hTI" width="320" youtube-src-id="ymak60Q6hTI"></iframe></div><br /><div>Chuffed by my initial success, I scrambled back to the cliff path and quested round to Porth Nefoedd. This turned out to be a drudge, and I fell in a bog. Fortunately it was hot, so I crusted off quickly. Nefoedd is a lot tamer underfoot than talfarach, however the approach is a fair bit sketcher. It's also hedged in by a maze of brambles and gorse. </div><div><br /></div><div>I located Nefoedd Wideboy and quickly got stuck in working out a plan of attack. This stretched into a prolonged head scratching exercise as its far from a standard block. Once tucked under the initial constriction you can stand into a narrow triangular slot between the boulders. At the back of this is the starting point (a jammed boulder). Once off the deck, you have to dive under the constriction. Needless to say a variety of strength sapping options were applied before the award of "most likely to succeed" was claimed. Unfortunately by this point, I was knackered. I took this to be a benchmarking success and noted the requirement to get better core endurance. </div><div>This is my highpoint. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0hM1RZmT9nF-osFa3sd-18d85EdyZB_cjFEYBSVvnj8ST4Tr48nJgnjIbevhhNSO95ThnI-pkW4uZwDw1SXMHP9KruLeiBTJGEjCxfLGn6On4gVGXMGPDjI6GWo7l2vYJmtsbUU5xNc2T/s1920/VID_20210525_6973749938580926882.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1920" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0hM1RZmT9nF-osFa3sd-18d85EdyZB_cjFEYBSVvnj8ST4Tr48nJgnjIbevhhNSO95ThnI-pkW4uZwDw1SXMHP9KruLeiBTJGEjCxfLGn6On4gVGXMGPDjI6GWo7l2vYJmtsbUU5xNc2T/s320/VID_20210525_6973749938580926882.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The next venue was on the North Coast, so leaving the tape on (got some funny looks driving) I sought out what I thought was a direct path back to the car. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Never do this. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">First rule of Rhiw bouldering : never leave the described path! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The resulting hour of psychological warfare as I negotiated 100m of dense brambles (no sleeping beauty was worth this) reinforced the first rule, and my cunning idea of bridge building out of my pads meant I'm still picking spines out of them.. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So anyway next venue. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt0Aej3g_29Prgcwm70RrQChpN3p-eAyBWJoDTDyBXhmCKrKN2hrIfkMuls57qrFx6VFk_4zeRkfZOe6GV64bRRqdSfslNC81YqJ-c13z9BIRbIRBeJTxSq0oa14kbXaBmbHj13lkw6H3Y/s2048/IMGP0012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt0Aej3g_29Prgcwm70RrQChpN3p-eAyBWJoDTDyBXhmCKrKN2hrIfkMuls57qrFx6VFk_4zeRkfZOe6GV64bRRqdSfslNC81YqJ-c13z9BIRbIRBeJTxSq0oa14kbXaBmbHj13lkw6H3Y/s320/IMGP0012.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This was the fabled Jellybowl cave, old school and rarely in condition. It was a bit damp, but I was here and keen for Jellybowl Crack</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzVTEHPOYbQwXmTO7A8wocKSmfmKi02r4QdTIFC7wpYNPtDn7VBX3LdqAyjjh4pggYq3Zyo3tS8kwruB-bXtQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This was definitely an old school V6, and I was spent. Short and brutal, it was a bit damp, but really had I been fresher, it probably would have been a different story. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">There’s loads of untapped potential in jellybowl cave if you have industrial fans to get it dry.. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxUGHP0EDqZzsIFi63WYTQT7uJnYkg0DAEaqGpmSZ2VmpWt-R3J9Dyt_p_MCU-L5-K7RTrzvIgdivWdn5YQkQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">My well planned tide window was coming to a close. The sea lapped at the ceiliog's feet and work beckoned. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg37ZS0crCLVaPN_BU_hRiTUsgR9LBPeyAg-YNfhy4vXJmSjR6aUDCaCQSr38qJpVJSlmv2WcgDwZYPCi36N63TUGOBRjNinri_0fK8PcYcOGvSCIXHVfBOfAGOblvyI4XxIQ9GOKbIpUeF/s2048/IMG_20210525_170902.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg37ZS0crCLVaPN_BU_hRiTUsgR9LBPeyAg-YNfhy4vXJmSjR6aUDCaCQSr38qJpVJSlmv2WcgDwZYPCi36N63TUGOBRjNinri_0fK8PcYcOGvSCIXHVfBOfAGOblvyI4XxIQ9GOKbIpUeF/s320/IMG_20210525_170902.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Moving forward, I've identified some good tide windows for the Tosheroon in July, so June is to be mostly about core endurance and maximising beans. Hopefully I'll have some fun too. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Watch this space </div><br /><p><br /></p></div>HoseyBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07146986140129451636noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-275668537772803979.post-44963730189163502202021-05-01T05:34:00.002-07:002021-05-01T05:34:55.674-07:00Purple Patch <p> Things are going pretty well lately. Firstly finally surmounting George's Crack, then putting The Shard to rest. I've been using the progressive psyche like Spengler's proton pack, hosing down neglected projects.</p><p><br /></p><p>First up was a trip to the hidden valley. There was this rather massive boulder there by the river. Landing wasn't great, but the rock was rather cool; a mass of grit like slopes with an undercut base:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyRjOyH3f3Q95TONrCxna32EoBcQvDt9EUIXoJtheGPN7VrRgtOwfAYIv2TddO4B81bC7zdLJhwficDK-QL3JOwxGOmiSpCe8LQL7NGMjwqs_aKa3zoafcD_FCQg27wgsfGkGR1RiifXyA/s2048/IMG_20210419_141408.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyRjOyH3f3Q95TONrCxna32EoBcQvDt9EUIXoJtheGPN7VrRgtOwfAYIv2TddO4B81bC7zdLJhwficDK-QL3JOwxGOmiSpCe8LQL7NGMjwqs_aKa3zoafcD_FCQg27wgsfGkGR1RiifXyA/s320/IMG_20210419_141408.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>There was a cool cave at the left end with some flat ground and a well defined start. I made this my goal for my first foray.. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/5C3q_EYXFUE" width="320" youtube-src-id="5C3q_EYXFUE"></iframe></div><p>The result (after many many attempts) was Bumshuffler, a high F6/7A. So many attempts in deed, that my camera ran out of memory as I topped out (and I was slightly late for the school run). </p><p><br /></p><p>Spurred on by this my next adventure was up to Marchlyn, as I was well keen to push forward on some of the projects there.. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhlZ3nbsyOD2y1oNvDYQCJ3yF-bIEoIALQFYTa9FJy6Fq6ExHTRLY0nEfr_iqes6x889WhaEiwWpkQlOHWUQK9fCSXf2cntebit1jS1s1AxdMdQTaHDCpgy4ORJahnevB-RARlDZCwrC8O/s2048/IMG_20210425_160713.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhlZ3nbsyOD2y1oNvDYQCJ3yF-bIEoIALQFYTa9FJy6Fq6ExHTRLY0nEfr_iqes6x889WhaEiwWpkQlOHWUQK9fCSXf2cntebit1jS1s1AxdMdQTaHDCpgy4ORJahnevB-RARlDZCwrC8O/s320/IMG_20210425_160713.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>On reaching the dam, I saw the water level unusually high... <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJopyIoxbKh7z0WMjf2zdX03bLnEwjBbQtBl5GVk8qpduu-QIfxmK0dn6KkHwGGio4JXE6qaADN5hyOi7Jan_kNpYPQ1sI1CGSm0Wbt5yulOuc6tsD3dJ52YAzcDQzN7oUzsZxsWMM8Lra/s2048/IMG_20210425_161046.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJopyIoxbKh7z0WMjf2zdX03bLnEwjBbQtBl5GVk8qpduu-QIfxmK0dn6KkHwGGio4JXE6qaADN5hyOi7Jan_kNpYPQ1sI1CGSm0Wbt5yulOuc6tsD3dJ52YAzcDQzN7oUzsZxsWMM8Lra/s320/IMG_20210425_161046.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Oops, the landing for the Super boulder was under water! First time in seven years I've encountered this. After some research I had found that the moving away from nuclear power has meant that its not always the best economy for them to pump up at night, and sometimes (especially when green energy, solar and the like, is doing well), they keep it up top to get the best price... <div>Some further sleuthing has shown that you can predict the up top Connie's by looking by fishskin wall (a drive rather than a long walk). It's a closed system, so if it's empty down here it's full up there and vica versa. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibzZdGZ3ertGluPm4pmscsyOosoHJhf_j_W9jRo2K-QG-blTiZKRh2q09IGp9LTClYj-miLhI1PRor-E-GXuhffB3RiPl-rh-yb5ZnUDYltzz7mkNVMehB-bk30hpmKzImBesyQXR0CuWw/s1073/IMG_20210428_145632%257E4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1073" data-original-width="1070" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibzZdGZ3ertGluPm4pmscsyOosoHJhf_j_W9jRo2K-QG-blTiZKRh2q09IGp9LTClYj-miLhI1PRor-E-GXuhffB3RiPl-rh-yb5ZnUDYltzz7mkNVMehB-bk30hpmKzImBesyQXR0CuWw/s320/IMG_20210428_145632%257E4.jpg" /></a></div>As a rule of thumb, this boulder here is a good marker, if the level is so low that it is linked to the promentary behind, it probably not worth walking in. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR-GG4ltpxV-uKZrKmPCP_Kp5kQ9NikzVIxPJGpzAhQs3EtY_OcTWrFunenQYInfWypcch1qls0rFDXidWhBuxTwCVY8wt_Sv7T5IIOU4KyUr6Hdd97X5FFECMq7-QHetJ3Z4dZQorRL5Z/s1440/Screenshot_20210428-220850%257E2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="720" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR-GG4ltpxV-uKZrKmPCP_Kp5kQ9NikzVIxPJGpzAhQs3EtY_OcTWrFunenQYInfWypcch1qls0rFDXidWhBuxTwCVY8wt_Sv7T5IIOU4KyUr6Hdd97X5FFECMq7-QHetJ3Z4dZQorRL5Z/s320/Screenshot_20210428-220850%257E2.png" /></a></div><br /><p>This screen shot shows the same boulder on Google earth. The level here is still good for the super boulder, so lower than this is bad... </p><p>So back to a peed off Mark at the Dam.. I had remembered some unfinished business at a boulder on Elidir Fach, on the same contour as the dam. Some time in 2011 I had done this :</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/4RegAMZYPac" width="320" youtube-src-id="4RegAMZYPac"></iframe></div>I had given away the full traverse as a project in <a href="http://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2012/01/giveaway-project-of-month-january.html?m=1">2012</a>, then in <a href="http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=678">2013</a> Big G named it The Biscuit Tin of Marchlyn Bach and highlighted it as the Boulder of the Month. I'd assumed he'd climbed it and promptly let it fall behind the bookcase of my mind.. </div><div><br /></div><div>So a decade after doing the short version, I returned for the complete slopes. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/M2Exd4p6ICo" width="320" youtube-src-id="M2Exd4p6ICo"></iframe></div>Turned out he hadn't climbed it, but I liked the name so.. <br /><p>Biscuit Tin of Marchlyn Bach (might be 7A)</p><p><br /></p><p>So man made tidal systems are a little tricky, but good old lunar tides sometimes bless you with a perfect meeting of wind, time and tide..</p><p>I'd been intrigued by the seaward wall at Porth Howel, but on previous visits it was either in the sea, or wet and Teflon.. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8NxEtVr8zFrgPs4EBiSHJep7NeGWhHeuv_aH9esGKWFDdLsxohsV2mKHg2e2QxHWoL170YenpQLN5mr8AfTtYris7zk9Y2kkG61nuK_Fyv1Gacg_0oZrI0_brAgbT3OT8XaE9jsgj2zv4/s2048/IMG_20210429_174818.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8NxEtVr8zFrgPs4EBiSHJep7NeGWhHeuv_aH9esGKWFDdLsxohsV2mKHg2e2QxHWoL170YenpQLN5mr8AfTtYris7zk9Y2kkG61nuK_Fyv1Gacg_0oZrI0_brAgbT3OT8XaE9jsgj2zv4/s320/IMG_20210429_174818.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Not so today. Bone dry! <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpPnRnQz2mwQov6RkEwFuDsY2Zgr_5DP_rVap4gYSSHBeh7Q8k9BnYklPYNPBd5a5R5CSxH49mwzcbnYVF0rsFK-2xFq1zLNX1gX-L4AAZ225hDOrFvv5eq8MPSM-QviWBAUmujiqz5X8z/s2048/IMG_20210429_175752.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpPnRnQz2mwQov6RkEwFuDsY2Zgr_5DP_rVap4gYSSHBeh7Q8k9BnYklPYNPBd5a5R5CSxH49mwzcbnYVF0rsFK-2xFq1zLNX1gX-L4AAZ225hDOrFvv5eq8MPSM-QviWBAUmujiqz5X8z/s320/IMG_20210429_175752.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>The main wall was at its spring level and that made it high... Even Richie Crouch's 6C sitter on the far right; What a difference a wave makes, was exposed and climbable. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWrXvaWF0jGGykEle41vKzYbzqbg2KpQ97Po5WDXCZgp_2-7VhEs-giLnec782mak3fq59CiKSnb8PNaAm2ySDnMgVtxq_Ri9BwCKKR4x3dPx9yT5sV6ExzPuGxORpbPgot5BnZ0af6JV7/s2048/IMG_20210429_195108.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWrXvaWF0jGGykEle41vKzYbzqbg2KpQ97Po5WDXCZgp_2-7VhEs-giLnec782mak3fq59CiKSnb8PNaAm2ySDnMgVtxq_Ri9BwCKKR4x3dPx9yT5sV6ExzPuGxORpbPgot5BnZ0af6JV7/s320/IMG_20210429_195108.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Peering round the corner to the seaward wall. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAsNiKGugM8qfcbr0Ls5T45KupFaAJUS2M4XVKQ68RQaLP1CAMwHq9qtFM9OoWljwq3RxjSkq8MCP_zE-wqrlLGHusui6RQMGSmEU9gUmkPiGRgfeQp8l779SDSkCSO5_g5aBhOw5xNJj3/s2048/IMG_20210429_175856.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAsNiKGugM8qfcbr0Ls5T45KupFaAJUS2M4XVKQ68RQaLP1CAMwHq9qtFM9OoWljwq3RxjSkq8MCP_zE-wqrlLGHusui6RQMGSmEU9gUmkPiGRgfeQp8l779SDSkCSO5_g5aBhOw5xNJj3/s320/IMG_20210429_175856.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>In all its glory! </div><div><br /></div><div>Bashed by waves an pebbles, it was as smooth as the Tubes; that Beddgelert Esoteric gem. As usual I was drawn to the highballs, and the groove looked awesome and Jammy. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/za8kFN0o1RM" width="320" youtube-src-id="za8kFN0o1RM"></iframe></div>This became Paradise Groove 5+!</div><div>A mix of slippery slabbyness, Jams and udgeness. Oh and slopers! This wall has class/impossible slopers, flatties are the jugs here.. </div><div><br /></div><div>Next easiest thing to try was at the other end of the wall, thankfully the lower end. </div><div>Here lay the two biggest flatties in the insipid lower seam that slashes across the wall. They weren't actually that big but to me they were.. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxuzJrZzINTplZpbqWt40o2RXPeAdUgyfu3N5HNTfKe9DZQrYwNONdZZKlXohnppYwTZmkxuQDTYLAAFTQDnA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> T<span style="text-align: left;">wo Jugs 6B</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><p>Now I had a style I turned my attention to the other end of the seam. The last holdable edges that I could reach from the ground. This dyno was a little bit bigger and the upper break was not disclosing where I could actually hold it. Finally spotted a less slopey bit.. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/HzGM_b03JKI" width="320" youtube-src-id="HzGM_b03JKI"></iframe></div><br /><p>This is Seams Dynamic, might be 6C. </p><p><br /></p><p>I also spent some time failing on other stuff, but that just made me more keen to return. All I need is my skin to grow back.. </p><p>What this space.. </p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p></div>HoseyBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07146986140129451636noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-275668537772803979.post-60789932717100658972021-04-14T02:42:00.005-07:002021-04-14T02:42:37.561-07:00Business Time <p> So today I have dealt with a few issues..</p><p><br /></p><p>About 9 months ago I tried a project on a whim, on my lonesome, with two pads. The result was a bust ankle and is <a href="https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2020/07/the-lockdown-diaries-fear.html?m=0">documented here. </a> </p><p>The project in question was nicknamed The Shard and I had first latched onto it in <a href="https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2016/10/into-wild.html?m=1">2016</a>, and actually started the process of considering actually climbing it in <a href="https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2017/02/stepping-off-once-again.html?m=1">2017</a>. </p><p>However I soon <a href="https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2017/02/taking-bite.html?m=1">stalled</a>, as it was scary, and I didn't feel up to it. Shortly after that Max Dickens, <a href="https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2017/05/the-cut-throat-world-of-esoteric.html?m=1">Mark Lynden, and Noel Craine</a> started developing things in cwmffynnon, Max had tried The Shard and got as far as the shelf. I sort of let it drift to the back of the cutlery drawer. </p><p>Come forward to 2020, and the new guide is in the works, and expanding to cover many of the wilder mountain blocks, including Cwmfynnon. It seemed like a strong stimulus to get my affairs into order, and complete my dormant projects before someone else did, and claim that ego buffing reward of getting it in the guide.. </p><p>So I bust my ankle. </p><p>It still made it in the guide though, page 442, the project marked 8...</p><p>I was resigned to letting it go, I was not up to the task. Some kind people persuaded me otherwise, and 9 months passed as first I healed, then painstakingly got my head back in the right place. </p><p><br /></p><p>The issue with predominantly bouldering on your own, is that:</p><p>a) you can only lug so many pads, and b) there isn't anybody to give encouragement/a spot/a note of caution.</p><p>Highballs need these, and I'm certainly going to be more of a team player in this regard from now on. </p><p>Mark Reeves and Dave Fiddler graciously agreed to pad Haul and stomp into cwmffynnon with me. I was fairly anxious, not sleeping well in the previous nights, and I abbed to chalked it in a poorly warmed up state. For me the pulls of the ledge to the top were the crux, certainly psychologically. I rehearsed these on the abb, but my left forearm was still tight, and the moves were creaky and sore through my elbow. Determined not to ruin our efforts, I switched to warm up overdrive. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm87n27_7564zRlDHlCgK6LsAHU7t_snhMKnOfTRQYG6WHMNa6JXFvVi5pctgpW8YvJIR1ayfn-YsbGwFJjdeG-Yo_R78vD8EgSUwqkWQGvy8-2QNJ80N20rMGQ4FsMMakzDWD5ZkO7BGg/s2048/IMG_20210413_122033%257E2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1350" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm87n27_7564zRlDHlCgK6LsAHU7t_snhMKnOfTRQYG6WHMNa6JXFvVi5pctgpW8YvJIR1ayfn-YsbGwFJjdeG-Yo_R78vD8EgSUwqkWQGvy8-2QNJ80N20rMGQ4FsMMakzDWD5ZkO7BGg/s320/IMG_20210413_122033%257E2.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">The chalked up Shard. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">When it came time for the first go, I was still anxious. I knew my fingers were not as strong as last time. First go I fell off at the big crossover. However, this was where I fell on my first go 9 months previous, and the extra pads and guiding hands (5 pads and a spot pad rather than a lone wolf's 2) gave me a boost. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Next go I latched the crossover, but the stretch for the bootstrap pocket above eluded me. I was climbing in my miura's as I thought the solution's contributed to my bust ankle, and the miura's were flatter and less turned in. Dave suggested I put a solution on the foot I didn't bust, and that gained me some form through the moves. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The boys took a break to climb The Goodie, and I had a proper rest and studied the foot options. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">A slightly higher nubbin and this happened :</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">The Shard 7A! (I think..) </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/smFjdr7oowE" width="320" youtube-src-id="smFjdr7oowE"></iframe></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Sorry for the swearing, I was a little emotional. Dave repeated it afterwards to the ledge (as Max & co did) and agreed it was 6C to there. So it depends on how much those last moves are worth. It may be a soft 7A or a hard 6C+. I reckon it's better approaching it as a 7A as the tough moves at the top need beans in reserve. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So I've got over the hurdle of asking for help, and I've got my fighting head back in gear. Hopefully this will lead to good things this year. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Watch this space.. </div><br /><p><br /></p>HoseyBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07146986140129451636noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-275668537772803979.post-49594759944195888202021-04-05T14:17:00.002-07:002021-04-06T02:57:24.417-07:00The Awkward Shuffle <p> So when you're a self confessed North Wales based offwidth climber, you do tend to get asked a lot about one climb..</p><p>I first tried George's Crack probably about the first time I owned a bouldering mat (bought 2nd hand off Ray Kay of all people). Actually if memory serves me I had also acquired a stunt mat from the 'set' of Clash of the Titans by that time. So that puts it as around 2009/2010. I remember lugging them both up with the stunt pad (spot pad thickness, but size of a single mattress) protecting the along, and my little battered Holdz pad protecting the up.</p><p>First session I think I got about 2 feet.</p><p>Second session was a year or so later with a pair of wide boyz who were touring the UK cracks on their road to free the chocolate starfish. They had repeated <a href="https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2011/07/personally-significant-repeats.html?m=1">Liquid Armbar</a> which made me happy, and proceeded to lap George's in a weight vest. I'd tweaked my ankle trying to repeat <a href="https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2021/03/lockdown-diaries-dusting-corners.html?m=1">ToeBar</a>, and was unable to emulate their fabled fix-all "the wide pony". Still made a foot of progress. </p><p>Session three was 2015, and is documented <a href="https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2015/06/training-part-2-georges-crack.html?m=1">here</a>. I'd sacked off wide pony in favour of leading heals first and following with the stack; known as Trench foot. However I was convinced that I needed to emulate other www ascents; hang lower and be more flexible to reach into the crack.. </p><p>I've really struggled with my flexibility over the years, and blamed my inability to fix it for my perceived general crapness. Some of it is left over niggles from my groundfall accident in 2004, some of it is age and motivation.</p><p>However, as babies and life got in the way, I sort of believed it was just beyond me. I moved onto fixating about the <a href="https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2016/03/t-is-for-tosheroon.html?m=1">Tosheroon</a> project instead.</p><p>First significant kick off the bench was getting the first ascent of <a href="https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2017/05/aint-nothin-but-g-thang.html?m=1">Randy Roof</a>. It's totally my style, flared with fun invert footwork, and while tricky I didn't think existentially at the time, but fast forward to 2020 and getting involved with the NWB3 feedback team. Kick off the bench number two was that Randy roof was supposed to be harder than George's Crack, and lots of arguing about my desire to see GC in the guide as 7A (it is, yipee!). I also was being asked opinion on other bouldering cracks I hadn't done yet..</p><p>Basically I had to stop the moping and get crack climbing!</p><p>Black County Crack went first (<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CMuVck8jjXF/?igshid=1lhir0h3ccfqr">pics on my Instagram</a>) and I knew I had to get my finger out and put George's to bed.</p><p>Trip number one (session four) was last Thursday, I was on my own and struggled up with three mats. I was going to stay trench foot and keep as close to the crack as possible.</p><p>Here's the fail vid..</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Hoat8USMrBI" width="320" youtube-src-id="Hoat8USMrBI"></iframe></div><br /><p>I was psyched, as I had battered all the tech into submission. I knew where not to Jam and what to try at various points to Wedge my mitts in..</p><p><br /></p><p>Enter the bouncing ball of Welsh Crack Psyche ; Eben! (you may remember him from <a href="https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2016/03/inspre-2016.html?m=1">Pinnochio Crack</a>). So he sacked off a family day to be my wingman and pad assistant.</p><p>And Fifth session, second go, I dry heaved over the top..</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfvHUvOQOYAw94zUFnMQ070PUDl2gvA7bRkLHg5f3yj0gHvfB7UlQVKB0oNyVZ9Q2MwdeutrUzmWbtKm8UBC4ygh1YLVw-jYx_-YAA9t02CrdWCmha_23fO868oGYU4ah6rPQR0lXMANhg/s1599/IMG-20210405-WA0015.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1186" data-original-width="1599" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfvHUvOQOYAw94zUFnMQ070PUDl2gvA7bRkLHg5f3yj0gHvfB7UlQVKB0oNyVZ9Q2MwdeutrUzmWbtKm8UBC4ygh1YLVw-jYx_-YAA9t02CrdWCmha_23fO868oGYU4ah6rPQR0lXMANhg/s320/IMG-20210405-WA0015.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYBDp-j5wrJaA4R-BGXPUQLyX03YjMW6oMt9kBUHtKqwasHYHeuFpVXM2G31Dfj5oqXrF1W9N9dSvKb5kNMX6LbKBRtBDMdTGcA0lI-ZFxZPvUUPlHYAZhaZ1PnBLFwwC8ow6Wb9vC7Jnb/s1600/IMG-20210405-WA0012.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1562" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYBDp-j5wrJaA4R-BGXPUQLyX03YjMW6oMt9kBUHtKqwasHYHeuFpVXM2G31Dfj5oqXrF1W9N9dSvKb5kNMX6LbKBRtBDMdTGcA0lI-ZFxZPvUUPlHYAZhaZ1PnBLFwwC8ow6Wb9vC7Jnb/s320/IMG-20210405-WA0012.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo2uLFvyR44-MRTa97PAw9W-w2zShAfXBxj20QJgtZnq8bbZqRZQzGQyeVizXS8_6H1fxnbGestZy7RYULcgQWAjbermtS0S6HIblx7eUIvy8I7wqVG8K-grKAkKqvhydmdLdmZCeiOQSy/s1599/IMG-20210405-WA0009.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1186" data-original-width="1599" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo2uLFvyR44-MRTa97PAw9W-w2zShAfXBxj20QJgtZnq8bbZqRZQzGQyeVizXS8_6H1fxnbGestZy7RYULcgQWAjbermtS0S6HIblx7eUIvy8I7wqVG8K-grKAkKqvhydmdLdmZCeiOQSy/s320/IMG-20210405-WA0009.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5ieLzIvSWqrXmwNtKE9-KwzQBKHg4rdDrnNQLSDMAWehRk3-j3y89m0OoI5XWorGVCKVcMV3ulufE3Qs2J7ZReLXfBTF6W_GqxkGGXNdusaXfshtNACxPzlgxFsrSMHZb2Xk4wFga2nzB/s1599/IMG-20210405-WA0011.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1186" data-original-width="1599" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5ieLzIvSWqrXmwNtKE9-KwzQBKHg4rdDrnNQLSDMAWehRk3-j3y89m0OoI5XWorGVCKVcMV3ulufE3Qs2J7ZReLXfBTF6W_GqxkGGXNdusaXfshtNACxPzlgxFsrSMHZb2Xk4wFga2nzB/s320/IMG-20210405-WA0011.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Wd8JMHJQtCc" width="320" youtube-src-id="Wd8JMHJQtCc"></iframe></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Definitely indebted to Eben (topping up his account with session 2) on this frabulous day. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEWu4sStzYOVHXiEb94XNv1MMZOCb57pAlqEB014QdJ_LlsYlH9aLLGKigQe5Gz4o6uZEYkgKANeCMRBrA-iu2_HkB346_XODWLo0zuXLGV0u72FVLCb17h-eSKb09vhNWMduLYi9yYX6r/s2048/IMG_20210404_145231.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEWu4sStzYOVHXiEb94XNv1MMZOCb57pAlqEB014QdJ_LlsYlH9aLLGKigQe5Gz4o6uZEYkgKANeCMRBrA-iu2_HkB346_XODWLo0zuXLGV0u72FVLCb17h-eSKb09vhNWMduLYi9yYX6r/s320/IMG_20210404_145231.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So this milestone marks the start of a new road, gaining in confidence, bagging some more cracks, and ultimately leading to the Tosheroon.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Watch this space </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><br /><p><br /></p>HoseyBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07146986140129451636noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-275668537772803979.post-43855988056321704522021-03-24T09:02:00.005-07:002021-03-24T09:02:50.096-07:00Lockdown Diaries: Dusting the corners<p> So with travel restrictions relaxing and the <a href="https://www.v12outdoor.com/north-wales-bouldering-3rd-edition-volume-1.html">awesome new guidebook</a> is sending everybody out on their own personal SparkleHunt's for all this new shiny treasure. This has left me with the opportunity to poke around some old corners, those briefly mentioned and and dimly lit, and revel in their obscurities. </p><p>First though, was a visit to quack crack, as there were a couple of lines I still desired. With the relocation of a block at the end of the crag, a bunch of sits that I've been coveting the last decade became available. </p><p>First off (pre kerfuffle) was the <b>Niche Problem</b> at about 5B:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/g1DxkXGxmQU" width="320" youtube-src-id="g1DxkXGxmQU"></iframe></div><br /><p>The remaining two lines had to wait until things quietened down. Ball's Groove was a stand I did way back when, and was a standard bit of my warm up here. Unfortunately the right hand starting hold broke off, which meant that you either had to start too high, or too similar to the adjacent problems. The route was lost until the new sds gave it a clear line into the original. </p><p>Here is the all new <b>Ball's Groove 6C+:</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/iKOUBrDN8QI" width="320" youtube-src-id="iKOUBrDN8QI"></iframe></div><br /><p>The last one up at Quack Crack is the <b>Love Battery sds</b>, its about 7A and I'm very happy with it :</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/odr8skDqpek" width="320" youtube-src-id="odr8skDqpek"></iframe></div><br /><p>So back I scurried to that dustiest of corners, and star of last posts <a href="https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2021/03/lockdown-diaries-sparklehunt.html?m=0">SparkleHunt</a>; The Clegir Crackhouse. </p><p>Having realised I couldn't follow the footsteps of my youth, I put some effort into repeating some of these Esoteric blocks. If you wish to do the same it's mentioned on page 89 of North Wales Bouldering : Mountain Crags. </p><p>It's the localist of venues, and due its strong lines all packed in on each other, it has few proper "use everything" lines. It's strength is in the vast amount of options and eliminates it provides. </p><p>First thing we initially couldn't get off the ground is <b>Shed Party 6B</b> fairly non eliminate as long as you don't resort to chimneying:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/YR97S7_MuzU" width="320" youtube-src-id="YR97S7_MuzU"></iframe></div><br /><p>Opposite Shed party is an ace eliminates wall that I gave a spring clean to, should stay clean ish till next winter. Here are a couple of examples of the sort of eliminates that you can do :</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/-nToAFzkS8E" width="320" youtube-src-id="-nToAFzkS8E"></iframe></div><br /><p>The entrance to the "shed" is one of the highest blocks here. <b>Doorway 5C! </b>uses all aretes, face holds and chimney-able surfaces to struggle to the top. More elegant eliminates are possible, but the pure thin slab still awaits an ascent. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/V0NWSJia8ug" width="320" youtube-src-id="V0NWSJia8ug"></iframe></div><br /><p>The purest line is that of its offwidth <b>Barred to the Bone 6B+</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ifnhTL_GPbQ" width="320" youtube-src-id="ifnhTL_GPbQ"></iframe></div><br /><p>I did do an eliminate up the right wall which was quite hard, however it was also a bit contrived. </p><p>The keel of the crackhouse boasts its hardest current line. I originally gave the central sds <b>Toe Bar</b> 6B. At the time I was doing a lot of inverted offwidth; either <a href="https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2016/05/adventures-in-editing.html?m=1">Happy Feet</a> at Feidr Fw (p.444 in NWB3. 1) or working on Big Bad Bari or George's crack. Consequently, I had overdeveloped ankles and literally levered myself through the first move (hence the name). It's probably 7B in reality, and I haven't been able to repeat it. (luckily Simon Panton witnessed a repeat for a <a href="http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=464">news article</a> at the time). Here's the stand at 6A+ish:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/qkcKpvBKVzQ" width="320" youtube-src-id="qkcKpvBKVzQ"></iframe></div><br /><p>All this journeying down memory lane gave me a new appreciation of the place, and with a little more landscaping, a new line was unearthed :</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/wEUZZKD8vYQ" width="320" youtube-src-id="wEUZZKD8vYQ"></iframe></div><br /><p><b>Exhausted 6B</b> takes the left arete and gives some nicely squeezed slopers. Like Toe Bar it uses the break below the boulder for feet to get off the deck, unlike Toe Bar it may be possible without. Something to work on.</p><p>There's Treasure Everywhere!</p><p><br /></p>HoseyBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07146986140129451636noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-275668537772803979.post-41181081614162320072021-03-04T11:36:00.003-08:002021-03-04T11:39:17.317-08:00Lockdown Diaries: SparkleHunt<p> This has been a good week. While this lockdown has been generally rubbish, this week has provided gifts of happiness; those given (<a href="https://www.v12outdoor.com/north-wales-bouldering-3rd-edition-volume-1.html">NWB Mountain blocs is out!</a>) as well as those actively sought and captured.</p><p>I have come to the conclusion through all this that rather than waiting for good things in these dreak times, I need to be actively mining out positivity like an oletimer panning for specks of gold is the way.</p><p>For every base unit of fun (joie?) we can scrape together, our life has to be enriched. Every nanojoie generated contributes to our reserves, building towards gigajoie goals..</p><p>The week started with an visit to an old project, one I thought was at risk of discovery with the arrival of the new guide. This has unfortunately added to my distant circling pack of black hounds, so it was important for me to draw a line under it, as it were.</p><p>I'm sure I will report further at a later date, but suffice to say I succeeded by trying very hard, and was now happy, sore and creaky.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWkPDABL6N3Q-hfzFQSqoR2AupinPP3s9eQgsKH5I7vjvE8fhlr0X5k7K4P8-cxe7yYIKApM2Jgot7BckqO1-cUs20CAbmiBJ2QEEAYCaF6OrC7ioIJLXwuufPIh4j7R5aRN6JsTM17UUE/s2048/IMG_20210304_192535%257E2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1566" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWkPDABL6N3Q-hfzFQSqoR2AupinPP3s9eQgsKH5I7vjvE8fhlr0X5k7K4P8-cxe7yYIKApM2Jgot7BckqO1-cUs20CAbmiBJ2QEEAYCaF6OrC7ioIJLXwuufPIh4j7R5aRN6JsTM17UUE/s320/IMG_20210304_192535%257E2.jpg" /></a></div><p>Tuesday marked the arrival of the new guide. It is truly a work of great love. For myself personally I was so proud of of how the author delved into the zeitgeist, as well as embracing the distant and wilderness venues, which while always out of fashion, are forever bursting with passion for me (a megajoie top up guaranteed). The guide is also dedicated to making bouldering accessible, with clear directions, GPS coordinates and really helpful lists and comparison charts to steer your choices. It's giving me loads of Psyche to visit even the classic areas with new eyes.</p><p>Wednesday I dragged myself out to hang out with an old friend. Mark and I met years ago in Llanberis and have both worked in the climbing world for almost two decades. We were both having a low energy day, and were keen for an easy day away from the socially distanced crowds. I elected to take us on a tour of the more <a href="https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2010/06/time-to-change-hats.html?m=1">obscure venues</a> from Clegir's already Esoteric selection.</p><p>Judicious use of my new loppers cleared a path to the Crackhouse (coords in the new guide). This was a spot I tinkered in when the twins were little. A bit of a playhouse, it has few strong lines but loads of options to muck about with eliminates.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4x41nHzzCsMaXAxAjF2s7nyx9HrweoLgfFJKa4Eax-ec2satIvhmoUlIIo5MBwToOOjk_I5XEuBy3AODr1zqZRXQgDZSb8IpWWzIkLGT9udYsakH1hqXno1mYxmL6p35YLqfTkPt0ybxx/s2048/received_255872856001756.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4x41nHzzCsMaXAxAjF2s7nyx9HrweoLgfFJKa4Eax-ec2satIvhmoUlIIo5MBwToOOjk_I5XEuBy3AODr1zqZRXQgDZSb8IpWWzIkLGT9udYsakH1hqXno1mYxmL6p35YLqfTkPt0ybxx/s320/received_255872856001756.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><p>Today I was nowhere near matching the performance of my <a href="http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=464">younger self</a>, but enjoyed being schooled by these fun problems (and by Mark whose footwork was much better than mine that day).</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinaaeTuV9K0E-tcxuyDRHovv96WlCthif6DxisX_kbU6Ms-0Bb0ShVISK40_pLaMxqXGa89WNZznsUXytAt-Q4bVLNTJpwNj1BCjnqSGftVlBjaGfp84hyYAsOuMLfgPJ-sx6RWT5cfX1d/s1298/Screenshot_20210303-171832%257E2.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1298" data-original-width="720" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinaaeTuV9K0E-tcxuyDRHovv96WlCthif6DxisX_kbU6Ms-0Bb0ShVISK40_pLaMxqXGa89WNZznsUXytAt-Q4bVLNTJpwNj1BCjnqSGftVlBjaGfp84hyYAsOuMLfgPJ-sx6RWT5cfX1d/s320/Screenshot_20210303-171832%257E2.png" /></a></div><br /><p>I was particularly chastised by Barred to the Bone, a blue collar offwidth I could hardly start. Something to come back to for a rematch. </p><p>Having tired ourselves in the crackhouse I thought I'd show Mark an easy slab I'd discovered about the same time as I was hiding from the kids in the crackhouse. </p><p>Indeed, you can see it from the Crackhouse, just down hill. I hadn't even rock boots when I found it, and fooled by its easy angle, woke up near its top in my trainers. An inelegant lunge secured the day, and I reckoned our return visit in rockshoes should be a relaxing jaunt.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWffKNezi3W1LK2mC6T95QBQbuJo9JXE1fdoTh5SfRKSG-gale2mKjpiM3sgOe-1XikRUB0x5zvj6gZQCuJlbyd88eNdtC77uYj60E3bWXw6ROjjYEmWcpNte_gSOWRK6MlkF-Qt17xfKC/s1080/IMG_20210303_163410_953.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWffKNezi3W1LK2mC6T95QBQbuJo9JXE1fdoTh5SfRKSG-gale2mKjpiM3sgOe-1XikRUB0x5zvj6gZQCuJlbyd88eNdtC77uYj60E3bWXw6ROjjYEmWcpNte_gSOWRK6MlkF-Qt17xfKC/s320/IMG_20210303_163410_953.jpg" /></a></div><p>Still got scared..</p><p>But it's highly recommended</p><p>A Friction Romance 4+!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZy7cxmAY7Z4U6S4SEZte2jiEOClVG9No8rYgrHE-4Lkrf8rcuDf8Q01qnnA_9N0B8Vkmu039Ymr8x1wLnTKrOuT_qNYaHxASD34-A9vh0JsGQdUR96Su-eFl4PO6GkSEpjTGQv19sWWdD/s1080/IMG_20210303_163410_967.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZy7cxmAY7Z4U6S4SEZte2jiEOClVG9No8rYgrHE-4Lkrf8rcuDf8Q01qnnA_9N0B8Vkmu039Ymr8x1wLnTKrOuT_qNYaHxASD34-A9vh0JsGQdUR96Su-eFl4PO6GkSEpjTGQv19sWWdD/s320/IMG_20210303_163410_967.jpg" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>On our way back we stopped at the Bunker, another "<a href="https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2010/06/barred-to-bone-lampyridae-and-further.html?m=1">shed</a>" venue (coords in the guide). Rock is variable, but the right prow (huggy bear) is good value and a mid 6ish. For those slight enough, the through trip behind it is coolio (however I got temporarily stuck this time..)</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA6tNW0ist-PN-mEPdOGLt1BlzDhwPgIAEt5u1r4qydfWMdPKEpA8Mw3YoiziovRs2zUOaZFECQjapOZPyZVmHNgg6GnLbT-Hk7JGWJ29qu4bfVd7v13HHfmt_QTya4UkvRdxozOqYQQHv/s2048/IMG_20210303_130400.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA6tNW0ist-PN-mEPdOGLt1BlzDhwPgIAEt5u1r4qydfWMdPKEpA8Mw3YoiziovRs2zUOaZFECQjapOZPyZVmHNgg6GnLbT-Hk7JGWJ29qu4bfVd7v13HHfmt_QTya4UkvRdxozOqYQQHv/s320/IMG_20210303_130400.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLcOcw-K0UyQst4IkWg80WeNeVPzm3Yjs_ym81ciLi5kSOGjL2Za-zm4Cm6u3K7jMqvPVF4g_Q8RplfqxztclApc9RgQYsL4ale9Ymw-xw_YozE5jo1sZEF2QGHplzc8hi8vTzko4FKSGN/s2048/received_487272868937022.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLcOcw-K0UyQst4IkWg80WeNeVPzm3Yjs_ym81ciLi5kSOGjL2Za-zm4Cm6u3K7jMqvPVF4g_Q8RplfqxztclApc9RgQYsL4ale9Ymw-xw_YozE5jo1sZEF2QGHplzc8hi8vTzko4FKSGN/s320/received_487272868937022.jpeg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaKyeZHLZj_oX3S6XTFAYiWSkdNvMxtgIWkG8nX4lUkUvxlwB2_AeSJa-ObbH2uKUH8TuKoqVLNpWTiDGip0rVv29XptPpkl493qj1Mdf20WrmCXMLklJKZxZ8h3QO2eHY1cv9asrX-1C3/s2048/received_2889631814614990%257E2.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaKyeZHLZj_oX3S6XTFAYiWSkdNvMxtgIWkG8nX4lUkUvxlwB2_AeSJa-ObbH2uKUH8TuKoqVLNpWTiDGip0rVv29XptPpkl493qj1Mdf20WrmCXMLklJKZxZ8h3QO2eHY1cv9asrX-1C3/s320/received_2889631814614990%257E2.jpeg" /></a></div><p><br /></p><p>All in all, much fun was had, and this week has certainly recharged me (although I feel a little battered) I'm looking forward to some more fun mining out some fun from these gems of obscurity. Enjoying the play, rather than trying to produce any product.</p><p>On that note I really enjoyed <a href="http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2021/2/16/jcpc-095-jude-spancken">Jude Spancken's interview on Jam Crack</a>. A proper breath of fresh air and a reminder as to why we all do this.</p><p>Finally, it has not escaped my notice that the blog has been getting a few more visitors than usual of late. Whether this is just robots, people searching for obscure places to play, or just relieving lockdown boredom, you're all very welcome. </p><p>There's treasure everywhere! </p><p><br /></p>HoseyBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07146986140129451636noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-275668537772803979.post-51305839530561560532021-02-04T13:20:00.000-08:002021-02-04T13:20:02.814-08:00Lockdown Diaries : Dementor's Kiss<p> So the last blog was November, Lockdown number three kicked in and it all got a bit rubbish. I don't mean Christmas and all that, but this lockdown certainly feels more oppressive and negative than those before it. Fear and self doubt are well known adversaries of the climber, and since lobbing off of the Shard I've struggled to rediscover my confidence at height.</p><p>With the Lockdown reducing where I could play, I found myself returning to some local venues that also happened to be high... </p><p>Obviously this involved me getting rather scared and gibbery, but it also provided the opportunity for me to expecto petronum their ass and claw back some confidence.</p><p>First spot was Ponc Yr Haul Coll; new name for an old school highball venue. Blooming scary for solo visitors, but could be tamed by a pad party. However it's lockdown, so scary it is. Great climbing though. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/HzU6PN2SCR0" width="320" youtube-src-id="HzU6PN2SCR0"></iframe></div><br /><p>Climbs in order are:</p><p>Flock of Flying Butt Monkeys 5C!</p><p>Best line here, in escapable and delicate with a pop at the top. </p><p>The Groove of Smooth 6B!</p><p>Baffling and sadly escapable (although you can't return once gone chicken). Still very satisfying to complete. </p><p>Maurice Chevalier 6A+! </p><p>Very aesthetic line although fizzles a little after the crux. </p><p>Got very scared here, but ultimately it was a very rewarding experience, and I'm looking forward to a return visit with a post lockdown pad party. </p><p><br /></p><p>Following this I got the opportunity to revisit Ymyl Gwyn, and take an appropriate number of pads. Unfortunately it started spitting on the walk in. The long walk in wearing wellies. Carrying a couple of pads. </p><p>Maintaining happy face I slogged on and arrived dripping (abet mainly sweat) at the boulder. Apart from a bit of damp lichen it was climbable so fun was had.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Dd03AmY8bNY" width="320" youtube-src-id="Dd03AmY8bNY"></iframe></div><br /><p>I gibbed last time here on the niche nose project. An extra pad meant I didn't worry about jumping off this time. This became Buster Crabbe 6A+ and is a little balancey with higgar like crimps.</p><p>The next problem right was Death by Monkeys 6B! It has a cool move to the upper arete, however, on the first ascent the top was wet and I quivered into the offwidth at the top rather than elegantly styling it out. This turned out to be just as hard as a dry regular top out would be, and was proper brown trousers. </p><p>The offwidth is The Pig of Happiness 5. It's great fun and yields to good technique in its lower half and determination to fight through the top out.</p><p>So from dark times new resilience grows and perhaps a little self confidence. I'm looking forward the next step, whatever that is. </p>HoseyBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07146986140129451636noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-275668537772803979.post-77556819457223275602020-11-28T01:41:00.005-08:002020-11-28T01:41:57.638-08:00Brief Moments Throttled<p> So the last couple of months have been pretty dry in terms of adventure, mainly due to being wet in terms of weather.</p><p>However, enough brief windows of opportunity have occurred to slap together into a report.. </p><p>So here it goes:</p><p>Ymyl Gwyn (not it's real name) </p><p>I discovered this little cluster of gritstone during lockdown, and have been meaning to return. October afforded a morning so I got my stomp on. First highball mission since the Shard debacle and I picked this one.. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmc1fpDL05G6OVv-a_GXKvjpZejBe_MoGBeO87XCzvTFC-C4uDhrxLkz3FVsE5_ArZpz4qMJqjkl5iW1uzf5wKMqQ6nHVArmE7ju7MFQQn6PZd0-PzsI1N-sYqiOOMuqwsh9t5Jky-ngXX/s2048/IMG_20201106_113606.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmc1fpDL05G6OVv-a_GXKvjpZejBe_MoGBeO87XCzvTFC-C4uDhrxLkz3FVsE5_ArZpz4qMJqjkl5iW1uzf5wKMqQ6nHVArmE7ju7MFQQn6PZd0-PzsI1N-sYqiOOMuqwsh9t5Jky-ngXX/s320/IMG_20201106_113606.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/k1lT6P2ulWM" width="320" youtube-src-id="k1lT6P2ulWM"></iframe></div>Turns out it needed more than a single pad, and once committed, it was impossible to fall on the one I had. Beautiful arete though, called it "Arrietty" after the studio Ghibli version of the borrowers, as it initially felt small, then I felt very small.. About 6B!<div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/DKO9H7lZdUk" width="320" youtube-src-id="DKO9H7lZdUk"></iframe></div>This is Wellington Drudgery, about 6A+. I'm seem to spend an inordinate amount of time on long boggy walk ins. Fortunately it occasionally pays off. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxUko69kVF0Qfa5OnDSgxpsUWMzfJGGwNcoauED0LwqSMWc3MlM_NkqLAnggZ4r_qNo8K3G65nrhZLeC-BxvQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">An attempt on the niche to the left, a decent side pull that just happened to be on the edge of a hollow pocket.. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Crack ambition! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I've decided to spend the next few months ticking off and mopping up the last of the major North Wales crack based boulder problems. I'd forgotten how much I loved crack climbing. This little puppy did a </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">good job of reminding me. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAbltzKiYaNcDTuurpBLOlUjT8sEh2O54gIqgqZHc_Ek6i6fll-JykOH5DpY9WwFyRiNrBYmZjcihnR5ta39C633C71OTbdtMgXkMWYhqzJTYhsuWEIvz8oV0iHr3txMTswJH3AykrOGvr/s2048/IMG_20201110_104837.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAbltzKiYaNcDTuurpBLOlUjT8sEh2O54gIqgqZHc_Ek6i6fll-JykOH5DpY9WwFyRiNrBYmZjcihnR5ta39C633C71OTbdtMgXkMWYhqzJTYhsuWEIvz8oV0iHr3txMTswJH3AykrOGvr/s320/IMG_20201110_104837.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Crack Ahoy! Black Country Crack in Parc Dudley</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I'd also been having some thoughts about taping up, and happened across a big sheet of 2mm foam rubber.. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglRZISoLVIbnOQ83ho8GutkSA6qXaz-TzJ-CfqtdusUbt-rwL_Mg2Etnb7CKqqoPdZn9fc9NiGzDRGIw-6GoQBfrKEkm034Lm96njG3mIZbS0QHgiT6IZmY4Wagi3V6RS3LdYDiXs0NqAB/s2048/IMG_20201109_194729.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglRZISoLVIbnOQ83ho8GutkSA6qXaz-TzJ-CfqtdusUbt-rwL_Mg2Etnb7CKqqoPdZn9fc9NiGzDRGIw-6GoQBfrKEkm034Lm96njG3mIZbS0QHgiT6IZmY4Wagi3V6RS3LdYDiXs0NqAB/s320/IMG_20201109_194729.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>While it is too delicate to form a glove by itself, I was able to fashion templates to build a tape glove over.. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdqmtUNZgwZIQSFiH4dI07GE-8PNHrjRZp7R-zMugMF3qX8R6U_3VMoo0ZwQMb2CJkWoS7zKtfniZlM9weWS_r8SZa1YypPeQp2OaA4GCSuRHz_1F-AJ-HmHpHQNwfBjWwHtARYPDMrfs3/s2048/IMG_20201126_105036.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdqmtUNZgwZIQSFiH4dI07GE-8PNHrjRZp7R-zMugMF3qX8R6U_3VMoo0ZwQMb2CJkWoS7zKtfniZlM9weWS_r8SZa1YypPeQp2OaA4GCSuRHz_1F-AJ-HmHpHQNwfBjWwHtARYPDMrfs3/s320/IMG_20201126_105036.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim6b99w7bJO7H2XQ9pHODe5BySXsl6TGgdZMsZX_ZOTB4zk1PU5BrdSewITQjPEcVude6Yrswjnycx7vsHoLTajiVhIroywy4YqMTf96Wm-QhDVuYISL8byv2M6RlgH1IECjqwY5GTTO8R/s2048/IMG_20201126_105051.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim6b99w7bJO7H2XQ9pHODe5BySXsl6TGgdZMsZX_ZOTB4zk1PU5BrdSewITQjPEcVude6Yrswjnycx7vsHoLTajiVhIroywy4YqMTf96Wm-QhDVuYISL8byv2M6RlgH1IECjqwY5GTTO8R/s320/IMG_20201126_105051.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Boom! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Unfortunately, while the bottom 2 thirds of BCC were dry and lovely, the top third was not... </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/h6PbWlqCmOk" width="320" youtube-src-id="h6PbWlqCmOk"></iframe></div>However, it made a lovely excuse to revisit this three star fist crack at a drier date. </div><div><br /></div><div>I also foolishly attempted a through trip behind it... <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/GN6pJP5AIz0" width="320" youtube-src-id="GN6pJP5AIz0"></iframe></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Foolishness continued as I forgot shears to get the gloves off. I ended up driving home in them (via the Spar to get milk). </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx0Jhst3QSVFACTG1Dsnw3MDDQxIwbJYhXJarhXg692p8dz8Ue5907ocLTLs7Wu6OjjIey13lLCt_1ZemdAyCWKKI0k7J7kt1h-_nXbxf0R1j_7tF406hbEZ9lg1AT103iL_2veBi6gfht/s2048/IMG_20201126_123525.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx0Jhst3QSVFACTG1Dsnw3MDDQxIwbJYhXJarhXg692p8dz8Ue5907ocLTLs7Wu6OjjIey13lLCt_1ZemdAyCWKKI0k7J7kt1h-_nXbxf0R1j_7tF406hbEZ9lg1AT103iL_2veBi6gfht/s320/IMG_20201126_123525.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Came off lovely though.. Hand hair intact. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Finally, revisiting Craig yr ecs (surprisingly also not its real name) </div><div><br /></div><div>So a year blighted by restricted travel has past, and yey! I've started revisiting some of these scattered play areas. First job was sorting the landing adjacent to <a href="https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2019/07/approaching-official-operating-speed.html?m=1">Dutch Trance. </a> I was keen to play on another line on the same block, but it was blighted by a big spike and a jumble of smaller boulders. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhje80bOyxLsoy3bDQVl2NHCKGZ9GYuc7b-2NOrDXuZbRbMYqnKYC8m5Ph4xjNP94qjNLAdXbDSVaOg4LLFqKceXud4sM9w3e15VdhXp_AZ8XsqeUVGtfPFrzMY42PGf9FGp2Vj7j8VgUbc/s2048/IMG_20201125_104819.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhje80bOyxLsoy3bDQVl2NHCKGZ9GYuc7b-2NOrDXuZbRbMYqnKYC8m5Ph4xjNP94qjNLAdXbDSVaOg4LLFqKceXud4sM9w3e15VdhXp_AZ8XsqeUVGtfPFrzMY42PGf9FGp2Vj7j8VgUbc/s320/IMG_20201125_104819.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Firstly move and roll the small boulders and level the ground.. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-x_zfAcxDglsozB9_wCcI4FUnUjEHvBwHyKmaw4q7ifPTnD_CGfZ4kRnkM2e3hc0IhxpoNZQq6R87MifSlFW9OVs7cqxhZKEQyubY2NOECT6KoUyu_FZPX3zJQOrup4PJSR5K2VHTIaBN/s2048/IMG_20201125_110715.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-x_zfAcxDglsozB9_wCcI4FUnUjEHvBwHyKmaw4q7ifPTnD_CGfZ4kRnkM2e3hc0IhxpoNZQq6R87MifSlFW9OVs7cqxhZKEQyubY2NOECT6KoUyu_FZPX3zJQOrup4PJSR5K2VHTIaBN/s320/IMG_20201125_110715.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Then build up between the Spike and the boulder behind to platform it a bit and soften its pointy ness. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilZQ2ijaNw6SusBbTAZaoxbXoF40OQUCftJU8nmnvzQoQnF6SjyRjhjopTCyHiBrNJs3BfkZ9RmdhX5zx2AKCqX4o_z4kVpDag2x5n_m0r-vI3cgbfZIAuWIWfy0dAWHV9NIIUBdKciQnh/s2048/IMG_20201125_112721.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilZQ2ijaNw6SusBbTAZaoxbXoF40OQUCftJU8nmnvzQoQnF6SjyRjhjopTCyHiBrNJs3BfkZ9RmdhX5zx2AKCqX4o_z4kVpDag2x5n_m0r-vI3cgbfZIAuWIWfy0dAWHV9NIIUBdKciQnh/s320/IMG_20201125_112721.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>It'll need two pads at least but safe enough now, just need to get somewhat stronger... <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzQ2nz9PCor1pe0MtMR4kItzKGS7ZmhMcMMKgPzdZanLw2FKaUz_MplK7g_UKo0ZI9iI7HGu2-mcMXJfTfD8A' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">First go. </div><div><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0-CfOAyKkR2fWcngi2BQjkwiC4bfo_WjPNgRqI9_-yWBWCwZq-t5OQF4Bc8KVcpgwL7YDgN4J8XSYTTCASFz3V8qn7do5kMjIDSne0FiUVV7X7r93SdaD4i0QPaz_NTX1iCjDWnRS7OEu/s2048/IMG_20201125_114649.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0-CfOAyKkR2fWcngi2BQjkwiC4bfo_WjPNgRqI9_-yWBWCwZq-t5OQF4Bc8KVcpgwL7YDgN4J8XSYTTCASFz3V8qn7do5kMjIDSne0FiUVV7X7r93SdaD4i0QPaz_NTX1iCjDWnRS7OEu/s320/IMG_20201125_114649.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Sharp holds, soft skin. There's work to do. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Finally tried a project from previous visits. The sit I tried before was still too hard, but I found it had a logical stand, with a tricky dyno.. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dw8DfInbsMr-AbSxx6CNs7lLYbIBgH52tQ8RXcMTwazYIxMhHgGrZ6yHw93D5qofSifYn-sXVSApJ214GwGJA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>First time I got it, my wife decided to call (that's my ringtone) and I kinda went to pieces. Happily I topped it 2 or 3 goes later. </div><div>Slanted Enchanted, 6C or there abouts. The sit adds 2 moves, but probably bumps it to 7A+ ish. </div><div><br /></div><div>So there you go, a few snatched moments, I'm looking forward to a future meeting up with others, getting some pads down. However, for now I'm just loving getting out. </div><div>There's treasure everywhere! </div><div><br /><p><br /></p></div>HoseyBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07146986140129451636noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-275668537772803979.post-91802884294881652602020-09-28T04:24:00.002-07:002020-09-28T04:24:18.060-07:00Testing, Testing!<p> Well it had been 10 weeks to the day that I spannered my ankle. It had been settling down nicely, and was usable to climb. Indeed, I had even accidentally fallen on it with no serious repercussions.</p><p>Therefore, I decided it was time to rescue my spare pad from Marchlyn. It had been skulking up there for several months, and I was sure it would need some tlc. Furthermore, I'd need it as part of my pad stack when I revisit the Shard.</p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU6itdhm_-EfLGD3kbL5cKildutJz6ob08r7vezxAfABmyWSzJVzQnWIBjRvJEHw7Ld8ohiZulVNRev8hshbYDS4DMvDUGwMpQO-oyl_t19APkKfUaQnZw9ej9_P_htHqBOhmrsssRtqkq/s2048/IMG_20200927_154012.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU6itdhm_-EfLGD3kbL5cKildutJz6ob08r7vezxAfABmyWSzJVzQnWIBjRvJEHw7Ld8ohiZulVNRev8hshbYDS4DMvDUGwMpQO-oyl_t19APkKfUaQnZw9ej9_P_htHqBOhmrsssRtqkq/s320/IMG_20200927_154012.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>I made it up OK, the ankle felt a little stiff, but certainly wasn't shouting at me. The gully was interesting, but OK.. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKCBBNkUTG_BIW0MG4TsteecAvWBNnS8jzAE-FjnJahLXsxRMFJPTo6pC9J7Wg4yra1JAnGZA8ZYYCNZWXB6C_0nib9QdWreB88P0YFkyY2Ikm0OzUCw3D0gsHf09n3njMxemWLtZyyRbG/s2048/IMG_20200927_154252.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKCBBNkUTG_BIW0MG4TsteecAvWBNnS8jzAE-FjnJahLXsxRMFJPTo6pC9J7Wg4yra1JAnGZA8ZYYCNZWXB6C_0nib9QdWreB88P0YFkyY2Ikm0OzUCw3D0gsHf09n3njMxemWLtZyyRbG/s320/IMG_20200927_154252.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>The path had been washed somewhat by the rain since my last visit. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiRM5OzO4lQ-lmesAcUtFB3EqoRw9QKFsUDkWEfh2BMZ9GjayHo-hxpTvpfIy1HDbm1Cjjk0n-iVJM6jrKsB6tYXK8R48oXcdiYg26FvG32DlyFmcgSY8HyZyMdJRDRfJ1NyQLgE1CEzY2/s2048/IMG_20200927_155421.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiRM5OzO4lQ-lmesAcUtFB3EqoRw9QKFsUDkWEfh2BMZ9GjayHo-hxpTvpfIy1HDbm1Cjjk0n-iVJM6jrKsB6tYXK8R48oXcdiYg26FvG32DlyFmcgSY8HyZyMdJRDRfJ1NyQLgE1CEzY2/s320/IMG_20200927_155421.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">The pad was still there! Visitors subsequent to my accident failed to spot it, so I was a little worried. It looked a little damp, and as I pulled it out, I got a bit of a surprise.. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxufuFlShA4S2TkRuE8n9EDJ0rx1DrPx84xyjCIUQeWK6jJRJTslZaUH9NGY_fEHg2dA190Ep5-JqtI4Nsydw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>I don't know if that was just rain, or if the hydro scheme had maximised their cheap electricity and boon of rainfall, and got the level of the storage reservoir over my little stash spot.. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGDdPGQ5kfBVnLv3tBNbzOBmOwODc76p_l-47kXL7guaL2F8RCzctefBXkUO7Fhp-LXZTNLDL-s2R3DmMrSRdJZUnZ-YJ-Fe6sOiMVY-ps9OIukeJ1uRPzh8e0Zsvt3Y37BFpKL2QFHPQD/s2048/IMG_20200927_175651.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGDdPGQ5kfBVnLv3tBNbzOBmOwODc76p_l-47kXL7guaL2F8RCzctefBXkUO7Fhp-LXZTNLDL-s2R3DmMrSRdJZUnZ-YJ-Fe6sOiMVY-ps9OIukeJ1uRPzh8e0Zsvt3Y37BFpKL2QFHPQD/s320/IMG_20200927_175651.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Needless to say, there was much wringing out, even then it still weighed a ton. <div><br /></div><div>Keen to play, I had brought another pad up, and also my posher camera (ie not my phone). It had a 10sec timer, so I got to set up some vignettes and scamper into frame. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFACMxK3Ajidzjy_nUHaORuGCnZ-2Y7WBGQKLy3z_UEub8B38w93JlzUijNA9QTVZg-ZzC_iUr7gugkAlD__IclRhpHeqzYgY_q5Z2Aj4_jsLiSWCEMagYUax6Jsh9RTb4fIdZl1N1eQDb/s2048/IMGP0037.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFACMxK3Ajidzjy_nUHaORuGCnZ-2Y7WBGQKLy3z_UEub8B38w93JlzUijNA9QTVZg-ZzC_iUr7gugkAlD__IclRhpHeqzYgY_q5Z2Aj4_jsLiSWCEMagYUax6Jsh9RTb4fIdZl1N1eQDb/s320/IMGP0037.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEine8Vz5pNTzWlTuAXzRuY2l6YD7-zl-vfcdJ8d40XYcP5xavVKlhrB0kNRYmwcjv_0_r4Biln4NorehEZ7hp0N15piUENZ2C5HtgofABHATyzjSbeEeaNLdd025JZcQYUm-Ugcx0N0UYw1/s2048/IMGP0038.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEine8Vz5pNTzWlTuAXzRuY2l6YD7-zl-vfcdJ8d40XYcP5xavVKlhrB0kNRYmwcjv_0_r4Biln4NorehEZ7hp0N15piUENZ2C5HtgofABHATyzjSbeEeaNLdd025JZcQYUm-Ugcx0N0UYw1/s320/IMGP0038.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>These are Erodeo 5C<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpxl3FpRVbkuYq_uyCHTn_EpRBeqgO-_gZmZlBUztjVjYIlodIO_nZDJhiPLWd25HburYkq8SdcgK1JEz5gEm7pFP9FdcG_sjdpcnFqc7A4b4MuSTxHPP1QfReo0SI78d-7hlJSzAcaEi_/s2048/IMGP0039.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpxl3FpRVbkuYq_uyCHTn_EpRBeqgO-_gZmZlBUztjVjYIlodIO_nZDJhiPLWd25HburYkq8SdcgK1JEz5gEm7pFP9FdcG_sjdpcnFqc7A4b4MuSTxHPP1QfReo0SI78d-7hlJSzAcaEi_/s320/IMGP0039.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Tumbleweed 6B<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwbExQ1OHKwZHLtsbIJP6tijZeS6BYIWbsoehkIskWWBDzPFMf_2o6NcwLZeTDSimzDZPE2YKsP8kg4HEup76MGY8meBr1fxuz9I286lKw9yNvBovXB80DjlwqKhLtbtu3cWT3CknnJhQr/s2048/IMGP0041.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwbExQ1OHKwZHLtsbIJP6tijZeS6BYIWbsoehkIskWWBDzPFMf_2o6NcwLZeTDSimzDZPE2YKsP8kg4HEup76MGY8meBr1fxuz9I286lKw9yNvBovXB80DjlwqKhLtbtu3cWT3CknnJhQr/s320/IMGP0041.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Seamus 6C<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXh-oAU8NGmnvecpFgnYxxy0TZbWG8vkK62hZW6UTgamCnq1AJje-IjpfNr8E9Bc1jVltr_GA8QE4yS3Y53PV7lIJzwoaOucaNMviZiW0GbUVOuVf_-1lt7COcdniFFUXOIx8K5tC2R-RU/s2048/IMGP0042.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXh-oAU8NGmnvecpFgnYxxy0TZbWG8vkK62hZW6UTgamCnq1AJje-IjpfNr8E9Bc1jVltr_GA8QE4yS3Y53PV7lIJzwoaOucaNMviZiW0GbUVOuVf_-1lt7COcdniFFUXOIx8K5tC2R-RU/s320/IMGP0042.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitEgozNS5XL2vgbLAfvN0qUMMvoB4f3ILSXxZVlJIt7xgILYEz2jwLZOqGmHLznzOAs3x6f2HRoPaopSkxSmMdovz9rFjbHsgLW7Z6m6yoSspYJhYbGUd_q21m1HuFg3p3zNpkqw0ege0H/s2048/IMGP0044.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitEgozNS5XL2vgbLAfvN0qUMMvoB4f3ILSXxZVlJIt7xgILYEz2jwLZOqGmHLznzOAs3x6f2HRoPaopSkxSmMdovz9rFjbHsgLW7Z6m6yoSspYJhYbGUd_q21m1HuFg3p3zNpkqw0ege0H/s320/IMGP0044.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>These are Trev's Last Wave 7A </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Following that, and being a little warmed up, I turned my attention to the easiest of the remaining projects. To get the juices flowing so to speak. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxghdG7yGAo9AAw_xYKBGNgu-oWzkU7SRCkzsqiXBe7FkkuLMfvLD6SGsGdAZtQOoO2asTwSZbJpCECIfrtWg' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>This was one attempt of many many. Some falls more controlled, a lot less. However, the tumbles down the hill didn't result in too much ignominy or injury. I just didn't seem to be able to keep the weight on my heel, and this led to a little heel scrapage and blood letting. Next time I'll bring one of my solutions up (I'm still weary of putting one on my wonky foot).</div><div><br /></div><div>The walk down was slow due to all the excess water my stash pad was carrying. I didn't fancy risking coming off my scooter. It's the next day now and the ankle is complaining a bit. I think this was mainly due to heavy porterage on the descent. Something to avoid I think. </div><div><br /></div><div>Hope you're all overcoming your personal challenges, it's all part of the game. Psyched for the next episode. </div>HoseyBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07146986140129451636noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-275668537772803979.post-53351249126870167202020-09-23T03:37:00.005-07:002020-09-23T03:37:50.112-07:00I.N.S.P.R.E. 2020 <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Back in 2016, I ran a series of blog posts called I.N.S.P.R.E. This stood for Its Not Shit, Please Repeat Everybody. It was a lot of fun at the time, however, as Seren was only just coming up to 1 year old, inevitably I had more choice gems than I could get round to visiting (or indeed, revisiting). </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">One such under rated masterpiece was Pinnochio Crack. I first became aware of this obscure Paul Pritchard route when Rob Greenwood, who was working in Joe Brown's at the time, directed me to its entry In the Llanberis guide:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFDQeCZUMhfvWfqpzOfXMoooFqc1g-9GPKjdYTyPJ-tx0bFnNy5fk9ej0qXfewbJzA51QhRO8H1Wuk9SMwGsOJlSnyNnuSj_7divkIX9JYF4Q21qRc9Pq5Pdw5zZMPjLC8eSffVLRONVCb/s2048/IMG_20200923_095123.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFDQeCZUMhfvWfqpzOfXMoooFqc1g-9GPKjdYTyPJ-tx0bFnNy5fk9ej0qXfewbJzA51QhRO8H1Wuk9SMwGsOJlSnyNnuSj_7divkIX9JYF4Q21qRc9Pq5Pdw5zZMPjLC8eSffVLRONVCb/s320/IMG_20200923_095123.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Rob knew my love of offwidths, and it was intriguing to see one listed thus. A 3m route, eng6b difficulty. This was around 2010, and the twins had just been born. Most of my adventures around this time were very constrained by time and it was very hard to align the stars enough to bag an offwidth partner for the 60 min window I may have been able to secure tomorrow morning (you get the idea). Spending probably too much time on Widefetish; an American offwidth site, I came across a pusher set up for soloing offwidth chimneys. Basically a big cam linked to your harness with some via ferrata type shock absorption In between. <div>I got inventing... <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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My safety assured, I set off to the meadow of Ithel. This, it turns out was above Ben's bunk house, halfway to Nant Peris. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlaD_lSMZEZZZAbpOBtyffc-ntU8cLOtxzpSFaUeAdy7X3Ahg0EBLw7iZsixUnhFpv__eVxAjWQhoObS-d6s-0v6kkvB8KVaWnsRftErOO57Xn2iFBy3ZoyGpfRn_7g7zeK07sTsIiKKZg/s1600/ithel.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlaD_lSMZEZZZAbpOBtyffc-ntU8cLOtxzpSFaUeAdy7X3Ahg0EBLw7iZsixUnhFpv__eVxAjWQhoObS-d6s-0v6kkvB8KVaWnsRftErOO57Xn2iFBy3ZoyGpfRn_7g7zeK07sTsIiKKZg/s320/ithel.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
The middle crack is Pinocchio, with little foos being to the right. The lefthand crack is blind and bottomed and desperate. </div><div><br /></div><div>Full of enthusiasm and confidence, I climbed aboard the ravens nest, chucked in some cams and got swimming... <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheoeqDxAi43MjxcTN5buU_breIJdxSBQK5StA4XFFqFJIj993nPU9EKBxd4DQyKHW0u7fd-DDpR8lVPfys61SHxGWQzzdjlc_lLGnYa_Skoa7dXn5f95HIUBuD4_6zzMZzvzs-rG7pZbxI/s1600/DSC02934.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheoeqDxAi43MjxcTN5buU_breIJdxSBQK5StA4XFFqFJIj993nPU9EKBxd4DQyKHW0u7fd-DDpR8lVPfys61SHxGWQzzdjlc_lLGnYa_Skoa7dXn5f95HIUBuD4_6zzMZzvzs-rG7pZbxI/s320/DSC02934.JPG" width="239" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">My next adventure arose shortly, when I flumffed out the crack, and found myself suspended in space, swinging by a sadly out of reach monster cam.. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqtE17KPDScEt9nTqCBWVw0Lj2FGhNxWvGLeFNs4O19XFfIF6UU2xqVBnCQbTL6PXtmdjAhhoFSV-Kk4vOqw50390rPUYCUu9t9wZYf6UKQGV9DWB4W1VJR_SsQCFJ6jPBihJJkSpcJzZe/s1600/DSC02929.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqtE17KPDScEt9nTqCBWVw0Lj2FGhNxWvGLeFNs4O19XFfIF6UU2xqVBnCQbTL6PXtmdjAhhoFSV-Kk4vOqw50390rPUYCUu9t9wZYf6UKQGV9DWB4W1VJR_SsQCFJ6jPBihJJkSpcJzZe/s320/DSC02929.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
The crack turned out to be 45° overhanging.</div><div><br /></div><div>Obviously, this was one to come back to with an actual belayer, and some more information. Although Pinocchio crack wasn't listed in the fa history section, little foos was, and it was a George Smith, Paul Pritchard effort. I sought out George for more info. </div><div>Apparently Pinocchio was an unkind nickname of Paul's, interesting that even he had his doubters. Pritch had found the crag and enlisted George for the jolly. Little foos was named after foos at shale City (this immediately put me off it), both led pinnochio. Might be E3 might be E5, definitely 7m not 3.</div><div>Food for thought. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>Fast forward to this year, and heaven forbid, North Wales has another offwidth addict. Eben has been ticking things off here, paid a pilgrimage to Vedawoo, and even survived my sandbagging on Striapach at fairhead. Perfect partner for Pinocchio.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFic-cPnVR9kK-f-M9zT-U0Z5b2d4RKt0OmQ9wZmLszITX2a5BpbuBIh3CuOPJJiCL4m524RFl5lYMnz8iZD70dqFpp9FlG9XG6M3m6Jyelw9PHO9wQqbNy20VmWPQ6pqHNiceCOmHlMOO/s2048/IMG_20200921_143422.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFic-cPnVR9kK-f-M9zT-U0Z5b2d4RKt0OmQ9wZmLszITX2a5BpbuBIh3CuOPJJiCL4m524RFl5lYMnz8iZD70dqFpp9FlG9XG6M3m6Jyelw9PHO9wQqbNy20VmWPQ6pqHNiceCOmHlMOO/s320/IMG_20200921_143422.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiykCfE38NDDFXxoz4ubL-KKd23TSo3BeR9c215bm3ISP3g_MQ3sHo1q4bU4Ch5FocorBkVbyLnMr5GeymTcei5oUpaujw40lgc6J4u6JVCDnqRuqRAT8-3FMcSv_QLBXwFM-kAaXt6TISF/s2048/IMG_20200921_144106%257E2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiykCfE38NDDFXxoz4ubL-KKd23TSo3BeR9c215bm3ISP3g_MQ3sHo1q4bU4Ch5FocorBkVbyLnMr5GeymTcei5oUpaujw40lgc6J4u6JVCDnqRuqRAT8-3FMcSv_QLBXwFM-kAaXt6TISF/s320/IMG_20200921_144106%257E2.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">The brave adventurers approach our target. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqusqB7V59SMy8YUFjrbd2s3s__268axt_ogYZVPJzTQublWQiZg88FdpVhEIZ8MBCrMDFidi6sxfO7ZZi4Q2B3AF2jKm_8NJNMolZkphMDaSvUOQtcAkvQy4cZSF0uH19-0r3o42XjfXO/s1793/IMG_20200921_174100%257E2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1793" data-original-width="1595" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqusqB7V59SMy8YUFjrbd2s3s__268axt_ogYZVPJzTQublWQiZg88FdpVhEIZ8MBCrMDFidi6sxfO7ZZi4Q2B3AF2jKm_8NJNMolZkphMDaSvUOQtcAkvQy4cZSF0uH19-0r3o42XjfXO/s320/IMG_20200921_174100%257E2.jpg" /></a></div>Approaching our target also involved a steep grass scramble via boggy ledges. We wisely racked up at the gully floor.. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivd4Q63GoDCt8M4_FhKEj93X6TxfcVVkKIbL3KT-BLFZNXLgDqMIY_wQRYiInV_bw9OXrMi0DDWqFXMI7UkJQLhyphenhyphenl2jtUwZurTkPBBiYQ77Sm7popTmLGJdjnY6Qnn2MrGKPl96nc45bn1/s2048/IMG_20200921_150924.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivd4Q63GoDCt8M4_FhKEj93X6TxfcVVkKIbL3KT-BLFZNXLgDqMIY_wQRYiInV_bw9OXrMi0DDWqFXMI7UkJQLhyphenhyphenl2jtUwZurTkPBBiYQ77Sm7popTmLGJdjnY6Qnn2MrGKPl96nc45bn1/s320/IMG_20200921_150924.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Another view with Pinnochio standing proud. <div><br /></div><div>I was first up to mount the now prestigious raven's nest. The crack was narrower than I remembered but the cam #6 slotted nicely (with a bit of wiggling) to protect the overhanging bit. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyEf4sgA9S0axX7GhjyjmAx92q0xPZ3vvGDP_iBswnhr8eqx_WAgTv5wWzxYrxV0jLCR6P5flTlSnj4PUqhfy8EbbsRxarqxKTu5XNkD1_5NsxKM9gjlJH1I6KjfPLLA7jX3KpoYR7odpr/s2048/IMG_20200921_154925.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1518" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyEf4sgA9S0axX7GhjyjmAx92q0xPZ3vvGDP_iBswnhr8eqx_WAgTv5wWzxYrxV0jLCR6P5flTlSnj4PUqhfy8EbbsRxarqxKTu5XNkD1_5NsxKM9gjlJH1I6KjfPLLA7jX3KpoYR7odpr/s320/IMG_20200921_154925.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">What didn't slot in nicely was me! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGC6yvpYeKYbmuEWdnT79OUbWq-HH7gCyyOFHKZN7vCUcmNA8sssZYpzZyn9QiswyzHRQTWfpDycUQffx9e0RO1u1BIsXuJJCWlETSfxG9jZZo40G4IqGH3MuuRanlu-zt3Z7tGEs-DpRZ/s2048/DSCN5791.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGC6yvpYeKYbmuEWdnT79OUbWq-HH7gCyyOFHKZN7vCUcmNA8sssZYpzZyn9QiswyzHRQTWfpDycUQffx9e0RO1u1BIsXuJJCWlETSfxG9jZZo40G4IqGH3MuuRanlu-zt3Z7tGEs-DpRZ/s320/DSCN5791.JPG" /></a></div><br /><div>Unfortunately a couple of months off with my ankle had diminished my offwidth powers somewhat, and my t-rex hang up led me to discount a key hold near the back of the crack (nearly all the jamming on Pinocchio is lower body). Back down to the gully for refreshments, then it was Ebens turn. He also had a plop onto the rope, but a bit of dangling and ferreting around gained him the hold at the back!</div><div><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRGeTn3aGQiaNOCGgAZLKMrkDmValncIn_hHegoJqUwZqh_d96DOKGYszdPK1ENwHbG5s-ijRCNO6yecVfRnV_asBCuAWJgQw3AMb00qsH-Fy9Ur1Q-6y48IHYjZgdVhZ_YqSGF7a6rl04/s2048/DSCN5793.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRGeTn3aGQiaNOCGgAZLKMrkDmValncIn_hHegoJqUwZqh_d96DOKGYszdPK1ENwHbG5s-ijRCNO6yecVfRnV_asBCuAWJgQw3AMb00qsH-Fy9Ur1Q-6y48IHYjZgdVhZ_YqSGF7a6rl04/s320/DSCN5793.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">At this point the rabbit kicked in and he was driven to the top by basic life preservation. Or at least a love of intact legs. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Great great route, which we are both keen for a second round of cleaner ascents. The belay at the top is a thread, so the kit list is;</div>A #5, #6, a rock 4 & #. 5 for securing the belayer. </div><div><br /></div><div>Our bodies have cleaned it. Enjoy! <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /></div>HoseyBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07146986140129451636noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-275668537772803979.post-65206680814974667812020-09-04T08:38:00.006-07:002020-09-20T14:01:01.373-07:00Footwork, and Before the Fall<p> Sooooo. Rehab is happening, and the foot is gaining in normality. Spannering myself mid July wasn't a cool move, especially with the kids at home. My wife was quite clear about that. However, lessons in patience and asking for help have been learnt. </p><p>Loads of proprioception work as well as strengthening and massage going on. I'm happy to be top roping up to 7b without too much discomfort, just need to get impact proof before the rematch. </p><p>This pause has given me an opportunity to bring you up to date with some of the other lockdown shenanigans that went un reported. </p><p>Firstly I spent quite a lot of time here:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvCsQbc-kvb9tYEQ_-a0iTfzjTkNyfDlUgjjbu8kYCXdLCkmY9c1NNgTJdFMqo1n2UidKQahp7zTuTs8gqiBP9wHcKHMIzjFs2ocrrKOBMWg7-tKY_g-Yft2T9wFsbbm6du9bcmi7SzsXD/s2048/IMG_20200519_171226.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvCsQbc-kvb9tYEQ_-a0iTfzjTkNyfDlUgjjbu8kYCXdLCkmY9c1NNgTJdFMqo1n2UidKQahp7zTuTs8gqiBP9wHcKHMIzjFs2ocrrKOBMWg7-tKY_g-Yft2T9wFsbbm6du9bcmi7SzsXD/s320/IMG_20200519_171226.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>The Marchlyn super boulder is likely to make its proper debut in the new bouldering guide, and I was keen to mop up any lines that I could sensibly do. I turned my attention to the satellite blocks, especially the Atlantis block, that spends its mornings Submerged, to emerge into the summer sun in the afternoon. First job was a massive patio.. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj9BTQD-COLjN7-ZsjL4VmqGF_T8bOyNe42kfR0mnDqpIJxElIocHDc7sKy_GXj7s22DU1f59gmL5h-VWSJNWeli-CVLhKYefOsHNPNV4sONxJEIlIY21qe7H4bb7xz1EHRKUpRQP5dexz/s2048/IMG_20200519_171838.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj9BTQD-COLjN7-ZsjL4VmqGF_T8bOyNe42kfR0mnDqpIJxElIocHDc7sKy_GXj7s22DU1f59gmL5h-VWSJNWeli-CVLhKYefOsHNPNV4sONxJEIlIY21qe7H4bb7xz1EHRKUpRQP5dexz/s320/IMG_20200519_171838.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/M6SgSwj7oEE" width="320" youtube-src-id="M6SgSwj7oEE"></iframe></div>Then I got these two done. Proper class slopes. <br /><p><br /></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMkGjy-m-1eTT9ouGGevqWs80trvm5iC0j-o7bl7QGBxpdG9VjlcMHIKYa6ewsZmykn4p0NyW1M_Eay47EB1W4C1Q0bC_n-Eqnq_RPqsmmOwBxOSVzp-dq-wTgOa0hYHjgsIITDHxuJJc9/s2048/IMG_20200519_175649.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMkGjy-m-1eTT9ouGGevqWs80trvm5iC0j-o7bl7QGBxpdG9VjlcMHIKYa6ewsZmykn4p0NyW1M_Eay47EB1W4C1Q0bC_n-Eqnq_RPqsmmOwBxOSVzp-dq-wTgOa0hYHjgsIITDHxuJJc9/s320/IMG_20200519_175649.jpg" width="320" /></a></div> The dark side didnt need the same landscaping, but was more overhanging. One scary highball arete, and a heart felt tribute to an old mate who passed over that month. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/O-v2XgYBqOc" width="320" youtube-src-id="O-v2XgYBqOc"></iframe></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>I even stashed a spare pad up there, couldn't seem to keep it dry though.. <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjiTOtSKLwn-bn7Xf0w_2Kk_Csj7blp54ljZshzJLkK1ivum5NlRmKuWd8UlVn7-UrVfqdbnfLyskVXpxvWjHnKbr88Y2KurdOkAzWFe3REob8mCdyylrWk4Zbx0yWPQngdywyp3ahFUQF/s2048/IMG_20200519_180125.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjiTOtSKLwn-bn7Xf0w_2Kk_Csj7blp54ljZshzJLkK1ivum5NlRmKuWd8UlVn7-UrVfqdbnfLyskVXpxvWjHnKbr88Y2KurdOkAzWFe3REob8mCdyylrWk4Zbx0yWPQngdywyp3ahFUQF/s320/IMG_20200519_180125.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHEhBUOS4Qnq7wVKCiflNKac5lWL_bTTkOBiYcwbS2jIDsBhRAgJhKW1X9x5DHbyNGJL2VU7E7j2WeBBib5k6dXkuHoHSUw20A_A9m2haFSeXKtglGJOeazpeC_LvJgbuA8lZV9SnWKMCP/s2048/IMG_20200608_175512.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHEhBUOS4Qnq7wVKCiflNKac5lWL_bTTkOBiYcwbS2jIDsBhRAgJhKW1X9x5DHbyNGJL2VU7E7j2WeBBib5k6dXkuHoHSUw20A_A9m2haFSeXKtglGJOeazpeC_LvJgbuA8lZV9SnWKMCP/s320/IMG_20200608_175512.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Fairly well hidden though.. <div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>A couple of things escaped me. This toothy techy crack<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaJ8jMuQXa158mMphbYjrc3OXG_UT5k9Na3efcM6XGHqXbZ7nOBwoZDKCKN5QE0Q18V2Vb1BjGpMHAYY9G47KQF3hSK2ME2ppCqrO9W0dffN_V9qeUfU2GqmOcyfAOYFytIIjJmFWZhkrw/s2048/IMG_20200512_164558.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaJ8jMuQXa158mMphbYjrc3OXG_UT5k9Na3efcM6XGHqXbZ7nOBwoZDKCKN5QE0Q18V2Vb1BjGpMHAYY9G47KQF3hSK2ME2ppCqrO9W0dffN_V9qeUfU2GqmOcyfAOYFytIIjJmFWZhkrw/s320/IMG_20200512_164558.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">And this slopey flailing top out:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzIC0NrPkoGVAihNDSQOb4_Bjys8sfirHTu_Kg6CCYJvzk9YAZtiGlkTAvdiVIqVDDeidNxLJ99ol60-FIHwQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>A cool place that I hope will not fade back away into obscurity.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTO_-vxECq-w1opbBLVQMFxyFWTQjmjyaKG5s_gHODW70q1RWRJIM1gsGAdZWz-XyZFK7q1MIZTSLjV4WH-dPGGUIwjZIAXQFj6syhA_65sAEKKLNFfiK6up5CSV7PR3Sb1FmsfUti7JXy/s2048/IMG_20200608_205920.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTO_-vxECq-w1opbBLVQMFxyFWTQjmjyaKG5s_gHODW70q1RWRJIM1gsGAdZWz-XyZFK7q1MIZTSLjV4WH-dPGGUIwjZIAXQFj6syhA_65sAEKKLNFfiK6up5CSV7PR3Sb1FmsfUti7JXy/s320/IMG_20200608_205920.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>A slightly spooky trick of the light on the way down. </div><div><br /></div><div>Another thing I was playing with was patioing here:<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNqaKfKgoSl18frQIR0aUXYmjGWu8OxhNwiUdJ_MJvhCDNneJEdYGES2ku7M8X0V6My4LY8AiouA0xLEz7FDYyTIJF8K6_H4y4DC-Ebu1BgjskDySQ3uIvvGZuPn6464_rtWZerndoDtQ7/s2048/IMG_20200706_180011.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNqaKfKgoSl18frQIR0aUXYmjGWu8OxhNwiUdJ_MJvhCDNneJEdYGES2ku7M8X0V6My4LY8AiouA0xLEz7FDYyTIJF8K6_H4y4DC-Ebu1BgjskDySQ3uIvvGZuPn6464_rtWZerndoDtQ7/s320/IMG_20200706_180011.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic0D9I6UaIjZoQTDFqfl2F-Czy6gd5V7Kqnp04agfSZxiYgRP97fMrXGdw55G5dTUHkveSHrNf_De8J6gGkK9xLy-kh-IOtYy5NgPx_Yny3mwDCSQa1RCu5o98792EF9I_cNN3mfpTaeUZ/s2048/IMG_20200706_180124.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic0D9I6UaIjZoQTDFqfl2F-Czy6gd5V7Kqnp04agfSZxiYgRP97fMrXGdw55G5dTUHkveSHrNf_De8J6gGkK9xLy-kh-IOtYy5NgPx_Yny3mwDCSQa1RCu5o98792EF9I_cNN3mfpTaeUZ/s320/IMG_20200706_180124.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Another work in progress I'm looking forward to revisiting. <p></p></div><div><br /></div><div>However, for now, it's rehab rehab rehab. </div>HoseyBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07146986140129451636noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-275668537772803979.post-78020815817263048682020-07-31T13:34:00.000-07:002020-07-31T13:35:17.646-07:00The Lockdown Diaries; Home Schooling So lockdown meant were were suddenly all supposed to elevate our abilities to teaching our own darlings. Nevermind this was not "life as normal" for them or us, and we'd been thrown into Confined quarters with them, let's have another thing to argue about. <div>Fortunately, my lot were all still primary, and not really in the sausage factory yet. Throw in some smart alec-ness and a smattering of additional needs, and we felt it was best to follow "child led education".. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1MF9rwB2Z4W7i7jxxTX6EZxKYuMXfzlqKUJocbIcT9lJEBvcZOTCdNINSfNHp-H0DsNKZAD0eWUbjNq0DkPY1U-fuuG-ASypKsqjJY0Tf6fMJa_D-CZm_h41Bri8FhjgbIPBlikmMZTdQ/s2048/IMG_20200609_141200.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1MF9rwB2Z4W7i7jxxTX6EZxKYuMXfzlqKUJocbIcT9lJEBvcZOTCdNINSfNHp-H0DsNKZAD0eWUbjNq0DkPY1U-fuuG-ASypKsqjJY0Tf6fMJa_D-CZm_h41Bri8FhjgbIPBlikmMZTdQ/s640/IMG_20200609_141200.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div>Ethan wanted to go new routing! It just so happened I had the ideal venue. Short walk in, easy to escape from, good rock and all Ethan sized. </div><div><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivbp2tEOrCMPZOT5BIU9xK54JZc6jG5qPVn7N6-oGZuMV2nMYdnEHcVoF8OWjA7MH5vdALIwShE1L-KPMBwu772zV8S3CYHkVTXpWiBjCKoVeX8_xF0Y6cTDbQfaoiZlXAoGCS2r60XC5o/s2048/IMG_20200609_134633.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivbp2tEOrCMPZOT5BIU9xK54JZc6jG5qPVn7N6-oGZuMV2nMYdnEHcVoF8OWjA7MH5vdALIwShE1L-KPMBwu772zV8S3CYHkVTXpWiBjCKoVeX8_xF0Y6cTDbQfaoiZlXAoGCS2r60XC5o/s640/IMG_20200609_134633.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>Impressed maybe? Hard to tell with these cool types. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz0JRYStYzUdGya66r_7j032fPG7e2G5v_VDaCqVii7qvCMRmJ2BpwCWfIbRuTzZ8qYpEBJLEnBmKvY4xptx2G9XhbMk-fHueMq554WdqwMf6ue4ZDwKR2LUD059GLV4JYI6ajtl65PHBc/s2048/IMG_20200609_135329.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz0JRYStYzUdGya66r_7j032fPG7e2G5v_VDaCqVii7qvCMRmJ2BpwCWfIbRuTzZ8qYpEBJLEnBmKvY4xptx2G9XhbMk-fHueMq554WdqwMf6ue4ZDwKR2LUD059GLV4JYI6ajtl65PHBc/s640/IMG_20200609_135329.jpg" /></a></div>First off was the left hand crack, and a quick lesson in jamming. He took to it, eventually.. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9hVQYmxGBJmQGOkx0QZPl_7Idx4Z9QyQwMxtmwPGdn8spTqx97_6y4MeUnlDHntuZKueJ5Uom7xpXtoTAvhEWb5UmM0jyMIc5Ch0eIF7vEUIT2RliiBocNCb9Nq359LitOmy4ylIWZJC2/s2048/IMG_20200609_142456.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9hVQYmxGBJmQGOkx0QZPl_7Idx4Z9QyQwMxtmwPGdn8spTqx97_6y4MeUnlDHntuZKueJ5Uom7xpXtoTAvhEWb5UmM0jyMIc5Ch0eIF7vEUIT2RliiBocNCb9Nq359LitOmy4ylIWZJC2/s640/IMG_20200609_142456.jpg" /></a></div>He chose to name this first foray "JamRock" , and hence crag had a code name. </div><div>We'd go once or twice a week, concentrating on a different line each time, picking off the low hanging fruit. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dx1caixqV-HRYQexWmXMsXL3bCTtmLOVF5bYIFFWwKqZPJLNssX_wMimEJjt2IATf5jOXReAgIt-jtnWmDYGw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><div>This is Sequencer, the key turned out to be using the holds in the right order (who'd of thought?) </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dy6CU8ETWoXlbNhAeOSGgcDtIgga_UBVhIkmQ6s9MoST4n2g95vSJeP2CIKTnbHuCzIFIQvsRDDpRZzNReQsQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><div>One of my favourite named problems of Ethan's; Doper Sloper. </div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOGP5keZYLiRJyoRRPlEWlD6gqeY98m7n-4kpiBqbhZw1TxTPJ8z0DPCRBMr_cJpnD7nhQ2iPqut8pJtaCguasX7vSQqG-YxCQ4IOvvDxXhJtBleUdndp3Dcd4mT5lGFO0pIRl7ODIB1p0/s2048/IMG_20200609_135025.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOGP5keZYLiRJyoRRPlEWlD6gqeY98m7n-4kpiBqbhZw1TxTPJ8z0DPCRBMr_cJpnD7nhQ2iPqut8pJtaCguasX7vSQqG-YxCQ4IOvvDxXhJtBleUdndp3Dcd4mT5lGFO0pIRl7ODIB1p0/s640/IMG_20200609_135025.jpg" /></a></div>This was the first line that slowed him, tenuous direction holds meant he had to think about his feet a bit. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTlFEYQQ6NQirrBHYTbNl6CEZGZxbiPN4E2DzWimZh35UGqEU6trNb8TGTpm09U11oLiUrdwjtc-Jj1AZODO8BOj9bumPjkT-B3oIL1B0fz-YYjfgVXEZrG2WGO6iH9KkgqxSyAm6WO5kM/s2048/IMG_20200613_140238.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTlFEYQQ6NQirrBHYTbNl6CEZGZxbiPN4E2DzWimZh35UGqEU6trNb8TGTpm09U11oLiUrdwjtc-Jj1AZODO8BOj9bumPjkT-B3oIL1B0fz-YYjfgVXEZrG2WGO6iH9KkgqxSyAm6WO5kM/s640/IMG_20200613_140238.jpg" /></a></div>His first split tip! <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNX44lirOtlMm3bfTV81i7Y-U4HU-f9O8-8TSGywIMB2CatPdtGwY8hmDLNNrH58e6iUkyzs9Ryy5g523_Y-VmGi0dr9RFDvrUOIFwzjbPqPtwRNLDhjQaUCrJ-8JthgqDyjHGKt9d0W0Y/s2048/IMG_20200613_142316.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNX44lirOtlMm3bfTV81i7Y-U4HU-f9O8-8TSGywIMB2CatPdtGwY8hmDLNNrH58e6iUkyzs9Ryy5g523_Y-VmGi0dr9RFDvrUOIFwzjbPqPtwRNLDhjQaUCrJ-8JthgqDyjHGKt9d0W0Y/s640/IMG_20200613_142316.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>This route became "First Blood" and has a lovely selection of slopers at the top. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6r8xDonf_k-gYtu9v_Zlw5xDLIRUEeNkZ3UU_Q4sHo6oIMN9zof0CW6ajFmySD1GnOWNLEQsWOAxv0VdDUGDmUMzyOVATdEvOnPg0UABwqKj-7ukHUROpRJXsH_pqazcr4PN5f4XdLL5T/s2048/IMG_20200621_131229.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6r8xDonf_k-gYtu9v_Zlw5xDLIRUEeNkZ3UU_Q4sHo6oIMN9zof0CW6ajFmySD1GnOWNLEQsWOAxv0VdDUGDmUMzyOVATdEvOnPg0UABwqKj-7ukHUROpRJXsH_pqazcr4PN5f4XdLL5T/s640/IMG_20200621_131229.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>Big brother paid a visit, however he's more into sport climbing and hurling himself into the sea.. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_Ei2UwVHX8zeCO-h8wxZ9f-j1IVXOj2Nbt3kF9Rm0GY_JMPOO7o6QIMomRbxvUGpPw13ndOUs8hHed8bY3xAtpqsEYQFRzAcTSX2pEk9gi2gp_NfYH7mQ2y7NJd8iWGa0iF-SCvCvr1eH/s2048/IMG_20200630_191842.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_Ei2UwVHX8zeCO-h8wxZ9f-j1IVXOj2Nbt3kF9Rm0GY_JMPOO7o6QIMomRbxvUGpPw13ndOUs8hHed8bY3xAtpqsEYQFRzAcTSX2pEk9gi2gp_NfYH7mQ2y7NJd8iWGa0iF-SCvCvr1eH/s640/IMG_20200630_191842.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div>This was his penultimate send. Lean n' mean was tricky for him as the leaning arete required some forceful footwork (hence it was mean). Two sessions and an exciting jettison into the bushes later it was in the bag. </div><div><br /></div><div>The last gap on the wall was a blank bit with a lovely pocket and a little slanting edge. There was only a little rock pimple in the place Ethan needed to plant his foot, and his stature meant he was a little stretched. Credit to him, three sessions smacking himself through the same move, watching the footage and seeing what worked, it had to go eventually.. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxjxH_umm4XwSpD2N4BPZfSy0Ri1NloFj-QznNaFIKZN_i6-zsJ-BmtISQDY3ucXAEqt3r4kP0hlj4qWqlV1g' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><div>Jurassic Dyno. 5C++ (Dad is tight as they had to have adult grades. </div><div><br /></div><div>Throughout all this Ethan assembled his topo (although the lazy tyke made me his secretary). Therefore, if any of you climbing parents want an off piste roadside venue for your own chaos monkeys you can plug (53.1284168, -4.1528944) into Google maps. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpee3biEl1n0WHb56btONBLYd69g4q1NNBTLfxAzraHPOVcH8Mf4g243IAp0lAIwnen2OlJbcTRRDzGJKFjBj1HP2VqAokbRMUnYhit-__FO7pUiFucLM98OrCsF0bllNIP9dgWbtPXOcl/s2048/IMG_20200726_212354.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpee3biEl1n0WHb56btONBLYd69g4q1NNBTLfxAzraHPOVcH8Mf4g243IAp0lAIwnen2OlJbcTRRDzGJKFjBj1HP2VqAokbRMUnYhit-__FO7pUiFucLM98OrCsF0bllNIP9dgWbtPXOcl/s640/IMG_20200726_212354.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>The bloc is all his own work but as the traverse was a little reach, he kindly let me have a crack. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/VzMyQscyJ2k" width="320" youtube-src-id="VzMyQscyJ2k"></iframe></div><div>Home Skoolin' 6B. No tops, and even Ethan ignored the foot block in the middle. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV_Vvc4VMtCKIZyQhInxLt5XSPzLjNaylirC_RBQO-JnacT9B4pgtl0kVfwiE3nSx7TLznnr_5lzwQdG2AI1QGwRsUUV7eQnosut4-87naZb1SHr_PjvN3iNhyNkKQYStdsbf_inP4GmJ5/s2048/IMG_20200709_215646_702.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV_Vvc4VMtCKIZyQhInxLt5XSPzLjNaylirC_RBQO-JnacT9B4pgtl0kVfwiE3nSx7TLznnr_5lzwQdG2AI1QGwRsUUV7eQnosut4-87naZb1SHr_PjvN3iNhyNkKQYStdsbf_inP4GmJ5/s640/IMG_20200709_215646_702.jpg" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>The midgets descending, well it is Summer, and the car is 10m away. </div><div><br /></div><div>Enjoy if you visit. This is the last Lockdown Diary entry, as I should be back at work next week (yippee). </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div></div>HoseyBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07146986140129451636noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-275668537772803979.post-44253516475621701912020-07-22T14:02:00.001-07:002020-07-22T14:02:31.871-07:00The Lockdown Diaries: FearSo lockdown is sidling into the background like an awkward troll.<br />
Fear of coronavirus appears to be replaced by the fear of missing out. There were reportedly 500 cars illegally parked around pen y pass, such was the clamour to stomp up Yr Wyddfa. I just wanted to stomp up to cwmffynnon. Although to be fair this was another product of fear. I was trying to get projects done before the area was highlighted to all and sundry. For the guidebook gods were chuntering...<br />
As I live behind Elidir, it seemed a good ldea to take the scenic route through Ogwen..<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz5MBzVpI3MT4aAAiIrPOgrPyGBXCTdmKvV4uGaMmiZ8WanmJe9LwzPOxKyDjZoiN3R84YNaV3X8yQIMQM0LmOw1M_cK7MRmdKTQQVYW0jGaPO02YyXzMYN_4hVTBEMy2lZ4430OOMTQ7U/s1600/IMG_20200719_133131.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz5MBzVpI3MT4aAAiIrPOgrPyGBXCTdmKvV4uGaMmiZ8WanmJe9LwzPOxKyDjZoiN3R84YNaV3X8yQIMQM0LmOw1M_cK7MRmdKTQQVYW0jGaPO02YyXzMYN_4hVTBEMy2lZ4430OOMTQ7U/s320/IMG_20200719_133131.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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Only that was chokka too. </div>
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However, I eventually arrived (and legally parked!) at my destination and slogged up to my little playground. I did pass an elderly couple, who I thought were being very sensible avoiding the crowds. Only they then asked how to cross the river, and it became apparent they were more (slightly lost) snowdon baggers. </div>
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There was even a crowd at Smith's rock, and peeps at mallory,. No hiding place it seems. </div>
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Eventually I arrived at my destination; F Hole crack area, home to <a href="https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2020/02/those-wile-e-coyote-moments.html?m=1">The Cutthroat World of Esoteric Bouldering. </a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_ZY_64PAKPS7gHBWv07hmYf77VmazN-isQBK79y9E4rp8ZMCx5r1tqqMuqIOOoz-sQMZ4102dVxq3vKvZ2XUHuBLgSrUNqG2Xh5JbRM4LiJuNa0p_y_j3sJjcRBKdmHSyRWhelSEIgzoK/s1600/IMG_20200719_154328.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_ZY_64PAKPS7gHBWv07hmYf77VmazN-isQBK79y9E4rp8ZMCx5r1tqqMuqIOOoz-sQMZ4102dVxq3vKvZ2XUHuBLgSrUNqG2Xh5JbRM4LiJuNa0p_y_j3sJjcRBKdmHSyRWhelSEIgzoK/s320/IMG_20200719_154328.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioT5N7E1CSujua7D-h92DlfB315AoqQRFApfeloeVVx3v2Wmy_I_8DP1GlolLsspDdt5SUzb5g-sLSor-_uHp3XJ9e-IG8yepSp9rWmafBD3K-3H7glb-ZZaEQh9k4UY_ZeKcUTbQ3PGIS/s1600/IMG_20200719_154343.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioT5N7E1CSujua7D-h92DlfB315AoqQRFApfeloeVVx3v2Wmy_I_8DP1GlolLsspDdt5SUzb5g-sLSor-_uHp3XJ9e-IG8yepSp9rWmafBD3K-3H7glb-ZZaEQh9k4UY_ZeKcUTbQ3PGIS/s320/IMG_20200719_154343.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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A couple of shots looking up the aforementioned route. </div>
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My previous visit had found the crack wet, and I was keen to climb this feature. I had suitable equipment to clean it this time and it was duly dispatched. </div>
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<br /><iframe width="320" height="266" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/ABPicUd1WLY/0.jpg" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ABPicUd1WLY?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
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F Hole Crack 5C! </div>
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The name refers to the fret holes in violins that let the sound out. My adled brain sees a resemblance. Having done that I was drawn to the arete, which was peppered with lots of protruding shards mushrooming out of the Tuff. These attractive features are in reality a pain in the butt, as they provide an exercise in Russian roulette. Un daunted I saw this as a good opportunity to test my mental resilience and had a pop. One unexpected pop later I successfully managed to get to the top. </div>
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Organ Stop Arete 6B!</div>
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The reference is the protruberences all over the rock, best not to pull them at random. </div>
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I've always been fond of highballs. Coming into bouldering from an adventure trad background, they provide an element of that primal fear / danger/ risk that first set alight my climbing passion.</div>
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After these easy ticks, I approached the altar that was the Shard. This was one of the first things <a href="https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2017/02/stepping-off-once-again.html?m=1">I found in cwmffynnon</a>, and despite the firm intentions I'd chickened out of properly going for it. Whether it was fear of failure /injury, fear of not controlling the risk (I only had a couple of mats) or fear I couldn't persuade anyone to come help me get it safe and sorted. It was a way into the wilderness, not everyones into slogging through bracken. </div>
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I had decided to see it I could do it with two (decent DMM highball) pads. I worked out the sequence off a rope, I believed I could do it, but once committed and at height, I got scared. Fear is the mind killer, and often leads to stupid things. I lost faith in my sequence and improvised into a blind alley. </div>
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Oops... </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoP5_CaFAhgm2VJUskBR676vDqsWMnCOaWIuh3BdNbru7B9wa1dCNfDI3oxwsg_M9ZHF3yKsARPG8WNfDTXwX3qHHKxIDbsNygnK7toa0ScbEQPxkSj3I5BVPba43ArenqP39WhLDz5zsk/s1600/VID_20200719_4192188152436757620.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoP5_CaFAhgm2VJUskBR676vDqsWMnCOaWIuh3BdNbru7B9wa1dCNfDI3oxwsg_M9ZHF3yKsARPG8WNfDTXwX3qHHKxIDbsNygnK7toa0ScbEQPxkSj3I5BVPba43ArenqP39WhLDz5zsk/s320/VID_20200719_4192188152436757620.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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Strangely this left me quite excited. I was now 40 minutes from the road with an ankle that just went click. I rummaged in the bag and got inventive.. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj2KUbaMaR8DznVnSNnVjvscd7eZyepg1KU_zyRlzQgrxtA_iBRgivxO2uEhRNqFRVrGx430G0D1DjK6Ipwr161D1Qj7T764pumKxqZf9nCLmDw6PJqYWy3l9TiCYJq5VXgUkIx3AAdbnI/s1600/IMG_20200719_171733.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj2KUbaMaR8DznVnSNnVjvscd7eZyepg1KU_zyRlzQgrxtA_iBRgivxO2uEhRNqFRVrGx430G0D1DjK6Ipwr161D1Qj7T764pumKxqZf9nCLmDw6PJqYWy3l9TiCYJq5VXgUkIx3AAdbnI/s320/IMG_20200719_171733.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now I know not everybody carries decorative gaffa tape, there was a reason for it. However it made an excellent splint! </div>
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Fortunately, being an old man I already was carrying a walking pole, and 80 minutes later I shuffled into my car with all my kit. </div>
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I was blessed that it was a minor (and weight bearing) sprain. With icing and wiggling and generally having to use it, I've made progress every day. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA6BcSQq7EcA5vZRwjJQ5skh7VuqavbBJem4ouMVQRuR-Jmz5xlemP3uRyOxgqv7En-QpuVMQGvpKNTLP1U820sG_DOttVLjzm9sTo-XC9Ta-GNxe8vjsn6CBltSe-mhzvZNtp1ewK6yTF/s1600/IMG_20200721_102727.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA6BcSQq7EcA5vZRwjJQ5skh7VuqavbBJem4ouMVQRuR-Jmz5xlemP3uRyOxgqv7En-QpuVMQGvpKNTLP1U820sG_DOttVLjzm9sTo-XC9Ta-GNxe8vjsn6CBltSe-mhzvZNtp1ewK6yTF/s320/IMG_20200721_102727.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnQ1uqsh_bpC39kM_9HlkSVkRa1nGwSNz87H4ttIf5nYUS3r065SHKemD64C8s_TlYDrQ_ftBhjYAoI_2mhg9pCVwBIg1gtjtw_A6eHpyrNjyyNWX1d6hVVXvg7htTwzSx6YpkQqBgy8L6/s1600/IMG_20200721_102837.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnQ1uqsh_bpC39kM_9HlkSVkRa1nGwSNz87H4ttIf5nYUS3r065SHKemD64C8s_TlYDrQ_ftBhjYAoI_2mhg9pCVwBIg1gtjtw_A6eHpyrNjyyNWX1d6hVVXvg7htTwzSx6YpkQqBgy8L6/s320/IMG_20200721_102837.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifJZAsToZyO7po3Gna4wHSMyceNdWzfpAGqmv8HflpqU3d_A77UvIVvgWxMhWe97iu3WeoJ9Et3FJH6gMIfK1677zTSOU9O1iDEtIFm6T1bX4v59jQmnNdVUBpY_ltLMHjLsSlePgGZ2gZ/s1600/IMG_20200721_104237.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifJZAsToZyO7po3Gna4wHSMyceNdWzfpAGqmv8HflpqU3d_A77UvIVvgWxMhWe97iu3WeoJ9Et3FJH6gMIfK1677zTSOU9O1iDEtIFm6T1bX4v59jQmnNdVUBpY_ltLMHjLsSlePgGZ2gZ/s320/IMG_20200721_104237.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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40 hours later. </div>
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So Fear. Important to help bring things into focus, important in that it provides us with something to overcome. I'm already planning the successful ascent of the Shard. This will involve me overcoming my fear of asking for help. I need a pad party. I need to trust my sequence, and trust my ability to prevail. </div>
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Exciting times. </div>
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This is the vid of the almost successful attempt :</div>
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<br /><iframe width="320" height="266" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/PzDqa4NRCwg/0.jpg" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/PzDqa4NRCwg?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
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Enjoy. </div>
<br />HoseyBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07146986140129451636noreply@blogger.com0