Tuesday, 29 September 2015

A Visit to the Dark Side

So it turns out baby number four is not quite as nails as a simultaneous arrival of babies 2 and 3. This coupled with some autumn sun has meant I've been chomping to get out and about. While I'm currently suffering from general weakness, I've realised that throwing myself at the long term goals (LTG's) is not going to help. I've been mulling on what I have done in the past when in this situation, and dredged up this old List. Thinking back, Jamming has got me well strong, especially the steep stuff, and the worthwhile bouldering specimens tend to be beautifully technical too. Life is busy, so I've trimmed the list to now only contain suitably steep mountain Jamming boulder problems, I'll return to the coastal stuff later.
Ladies, and Gentlemen, the new and improved...
Fist List
(Welsh Inland)
1.Georges Crack 7A
2. Big bad Bari 6C
3. Crack House G2
4. Dangleberries 6B+
5. Happy Feet 6B+
 6. Quack Crack 6B+
7. Teyrn Roof Crack 6B

So no. 1. 3. and 4. were still to be done (2. 5, and 6 were my own anyhoo). George had been subtly encouraging me to visit his Crack House, so that became the next mission. I've always been intrigued by the Dark side of Dyffryn Mymbyr, the boggy flanks of Moel Siabod always just out of strolling distance. To make a swift first reccy I enquired at Garth farm, if I could cross his land. He's a nice chap and said yes.


The view from Garth. this point is as far as you want to go without wellies.

Creig'ir Garth, home to some pegged E6's that look fairly savage.

The location of the Crack House, my map reading meant that I first had to reconnoiter all the top ridge first...

Inside the crack house.

My first visit was like Georges, solo, and without mat, I had a good go , but was afraid of braining myself on the ledge that guards the exit. 

Following a quixotic urge, my next visit started at my usual parking spot for Mymbyr, much further up the valley. My reasoning was that as long as I was exploring, I'd better leave no stone unfondled. I'd also heard this idyllic grassy valley was a boggy nightmare, and was keen to wet my wellies.


hidden blocs in the bog


almost out the bog

Looking down on the Crack house cluster

This time I had a mat! (just the one mind) and this reassurance that I wasn't going to fracture my cranium while committing to the baggy jams was all I needed.
The grade (G2) refers to the number of goes George took to complete it. My previous session doubled this number, but this time I cruised it, twice so I could film a couple of angles..

video

Come and do it, its ace (maybe 6B+), also the hills have many opportunities for the explorer:




I'll poke around a bit more in the future, and I'll knock those last two off the list, then the enchainments can start....

Watch this space

Tuesday, 22 September 2015

Normal Service will Resume Shortly...

She's Here!
D.A.D and Seren

Seren arrived on Saturday at the very considerate time of 5pm, weighing a dainty 11 pounds and 5 Ounces. She's feeding, sleeping and pooing like a professional.

In other news, two days later I passed my Development Coach assessment, So its been a busy week, Time for sleep, slouching, and some hard work.

See you all soon.

Thursday, 10 September 2015

Baby's still in, Scooter's out

With life a little on pause as we eagerly await the arrival of child number four, adventures have tended to be swift and erratic. As such, I reckon I'll be bunching a few together to be worth an actual post.

First mini adventure was an evenings boulder at the Quack block, where I bent my jack trying to move a rock (ain't happening folks) and managed to repeat Fat Duck Arete F6B, whose sit boils down to a rather stiff dead point:
video

Next trip was up to Marchlyn:
Scooters are the future!

Note the improved patio, now a one pad venue! (two would still be nice if you've dragged a spotter)

This became Seamus F6A+ a stand off the low ledge. (the mats on a cage full of rocks) It was also one of the more amusingly poor FA video's I made, as the sun was too bright for a sensible angle, and instead I wedged it in the wire cages for a rather close up view, some good fear shots though.

video

As well as this I applied some science to the issue of the direct into Tumbleweed. This consisted of sticking the phone on record, while I flailed at a series of improbable sequences. the 26 minutes of footage yielded 55 seconds of semi useful stuff, which i shoved through Coaches Eye. Basically I'm too weak, and my core is stopping me even tickle the slaps into slopers properly. Here's another crappy topo


The only other proper thing I've done up here is Livesey's Love Child round the back, a slopey top out grovel that starts under the lip on a big flake on the right, and is about F6B.

Gate to boulder took 53 minutes today (38 to the Dam). Boulder to gate was 22 minutes (10 from Dam). Useful knowledge if I want to revisit before the baby arrives.