Went Billy no mates on the Beast last night. Due to child wrangling duties I did't get out the house until 1930, so the light was lovely (if fleeting). The main purposes of the session were to assess a top roping rig, make a kit list for the ascent, dial the top section and have a proper grind on the crux section. As such it was a success. Midges provided ample abuse and drive, I now know the numbers on the upper sections crux and I learnt lots about the crux section; "The Vice".
1) I managed all moves bar 1.5 or so, abet with multiple rests.
2) My upper body strength is now amply sufficient.
3) I'm only let down by a) leg flexibility, and b) leg power.
Thus topping out at 2245, I decided the following changes to the training plan.
1) Rest. the session completely funsted me.
2) Upper body regime can be reduced to some flesh conditioning in the Coffee table, and "climbing".
3) Need to get serious with the lower limb flexibility.
4) Put the poorest Miniwave I can find on a slab, and do some one legged squats.
First attempt at training with the Offwidth Machine today.
Its been christened "the coffee table" by the workshop, due to them utilising it as such as they restart the build of the Beacons Routing Roof (last time I store it there).
I've set the crack to 26cm (coincidentally the distance from my elbow to the base of my palm, for those of you playing along) which seems to give a non-mechanical but not too painful chicken wing.
First attempts were a little amusing..
However, by the end of the session I'd managed to complete a series of sets of 10 curls. Working both arms, first with both feet on and then with just one foot on the same side as the armbar. I'm painfully aware that I need to ease myself into this, as I have a history of funny bone issues and need to build up some skin.
Got out today with Ben and Charlotte. It was good fun giving them a tour of Mymbyr blocs, with Happy Feet and Quack Crack providing much hilarity.
I'm finding that many of the problems I clawed my way up back in the day somewhat harder than I remembered. The Heel Keel in particular feels a lot harder than 6C and I need a third visit to knock out a full repeat.
I currently, therefore, should not be trusted with any of my current grading and please just repeat things that look pretty and decide for yourself.
So we started trying the wall to the right of Fat Duck Arête. Ben And Charlotte were giving it much blood and passion, but I got competitive. This resulted in Duck Life. Start off the obvious slopey rail and blast to the top via more slopey ledges. Probably 6A+ but as stated above, what do I know.
Contemplated the line of the bloc, but couldn't even transfer body weight onto the crux position.
Did my first set of 50 wide press ups tonight. It seems particularly hard to crawl on all fours after this activity.
An empty Beacon meant I was surplus to requirements today. Instead I went back to Quack Crack Bloc and nailed the sit start to the shield on the right.
Minnesota Loon is about 6C+ and starts with the right hand side pull of Fat Duck Arête, and rather than a pinch, the left utilises an uppercut fist Jam.
Managed to get a vid from just after the starting move (typical amateur production I'm afraid..).
It looks like there is going to be a team of us going up here Tuesday Morning, so come along if you're at a loose end.
More hands to catch Ben as he attempts the Highball slab the merrier...