I've had a couple of trips to try to establish some deep water soloing this month, but they're going to have to wait until next year I think. The only big ticks I'm properly psyched for are tosheroon, and the Marchlyn grit. Saying that, I have fallen back in love with Dyffryn Mymbyr, so I think I'll be up there quite a lot when I get a moment.
Other things this month; Bought myself a pair of Solutions for my birthday. I guess having two different pairs of unholey shoes makes me now officially a boulderer.
I was also able this month to have another visit to Joe Brown's house to talk Twll Mawr. This time for an article that will grace the climbing press in the near future. I recorded two hours of conversation, about 30 minutes was Twll Mawr,the rest was an enjoyable romp through adventure climbing, bolts, corrections to the current slate guide, Morocco, and getting old.
And finally, I installed my first conventional training aid to my house:
So far, I have done a pyramid up to 5 of pull ups and press ups, as well as a quick 10 pull ups on the slopers. I'm keen to do something to make trips to Marchlyn worthwhile. As for Tosheroon, its now scheduled for the spring, but if I can get Georges crack done by Christmas, I'll be a happy man.
Having taken Fiend to Mymbyr, I realised that more folks might like to come visit. so as well as the instructions here, I've included a pic from just after the 2nd bridge you cross if you are aiming for the Quack bloc and surrounds:
A= Bari Island, B = Quack Bloc, C = The Mighty 'Tashe
The Quack Bloc looming just above the wall
in all its glory
So I got up to here today to try the last line currently feasible to me. This is the big lip traverse, starting up Minnesota Loon, and finishing up Ball's Groove. Bill Travers is somewhere in the F6C+ region and after I practiced the various sections, surprisingly it went down first go. I only had two mats with me so I put them under the two spots I might get a foot/heel stuck, and started a bit crouched, as I had no mat to sit on:
So to further encourage you guys to visit and correct my grades for me, here's a crappy topo:
1.Ball's Groove. 6A+ Standing start, hands on the left arete, can stand on the block.
2. Love Battery. 6C Standing start, hanging on the crimps on the right arete, feet on and boof up to the crack, then through the roof
3. Quack crack. 6B+ Sit start at the lowest jam. the stand is about 6A
4. Fist Full of Teal. 6B+ Sit start, Quack Crack start into Teal Appeal
5. Teal Appeal. 6B Sit start, LH undercut jam, RH undercut the fang
6. Minnesota Loon. 6C+ Sit start, LH undercut fist jam, RH side pull, slopes and a leap, monkey up to the horn. rock out right for a thoughtful top out.
7. Fat Duck Arete. 6B Sit start LH pinch, RH side pull as for ML. big move to gain horn then up the arete with occasional face holds. Stand(or sitting on the right hand block) is about 6A
8. Duck Life. 6A+ sit start, LH pocket RH rail,blast up the slightly overhanging face
9. Bill Travers. 6C+ sit start on Minnesota Loon, cross into Quack Crack without recourse to the jug rail, reverse love battery, and finish up Ball's Groove
Enjoy.
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