This weekend I got to have some "fun"
Binky the Wonder boat got launched in Trefor on the Saturday. All was calm in the bay, but waves are a bit scary. I got flipped on my bum onto the rocks when I tried to get out in a little surf. My plan is to stick to inland waters until I can row in a straight line.
Sunday I was awoken at 5am by a ferret eating all our lady guinea pigs. After a little wet work and "cleaning" I was in no fit state for adventure. However, I had a date with Shale city. Arriving tardy and after high tide, I was pleased to find that the belay for the abb. was solid and reliable. Unlike the cliff below..
I've not climbed on stuff like this since Whitley Bay. I cleaned as best I could on the way down and then thought I'd just take a peek under the roof...
So there I was like Toni Kurz, admiring the solid architecture under the roof, and being unsettled by the shallow looking nature of the water below. Not wanting to get wet, and with only a shunt and reverso for company, I took a few pics, and then started to kick a swing into motion. This was a little tricky as I was spinning, and the rope was rubbing a little ominously on the roof lip. However, as the worst outcome was a quick dip, I pushed on until I could latch an undercut and pull onto the left hand ramp. Switching to shunt, I started climbing back up through the roof. This was absorbing and sphincter troubling, but all achievable, and from the ledge above the roof, it seemed all above sufficient water. The top out from there was an exercise in avoiding the loose holds and safely using the solid ones. All 4 of them. Flopped on top, I didn't feel up to the challenge of a S3 solo, and limped home.
Basically is it sensible (of course not), OK is it not mental to try it?
I guess a pirate rope would reduce it to S1 or 2, but its definitely a high tide venue. I may return to do the easiest full top out, just for completeness before it becomes a pure pirate DWS venue. I'm sure I need to be there with someone else, so that collective psyche and spidey sense can kick in..
It wasn't over there though, as Monday evening I had an unexpected pass to go out bouldering. I was fortunate to be joined by the cuddly Fiend, who I've sort of known since UKC had less than 500 members. The venue was Dyffryn Mymbyr and a opportunity to get some of Fiend's opinions on the place. 300m into the 400m walk in I realised I'd left my fingertape in the car. A quick sprint later I was thoroughly warmed up and ready for action. First stop was the Mighty 'Tashe which was a tad midgy, The quality was confirmed, although my memory was a bit hazy how I started stuff, and Imhotep was declared a sandbag.
Onto the Quack Crack bloc to escape the midges. The venue is the boss rock of the lower "Wall" boulders, with flat landings, a breezy outlook to deter the biteys, and seven established lines in a full spectrum of Font 6. Duck Life 6A+ went first..
Fiend giving some questionable beta on Duck Life..
After that was dispatched we moved onto Quack Crack. I managed to link it into Teal Appeal to give Fist Full of Teal F6B+. Fiend then lay siege to Quack Crack, finally latching the top jugs with a manly yell. Birthday happiness is sandbagging your f(r)iends. Completing the birthday festivities, a pint was secured in the Vaynol, where the presence of Mick Fowler and Catherine Destiville, sent me scurrying round the back for fear of embarrassing myself with gawping and hero worship. All good stuff. Ready for a baby now...