Had a good evening on the Torture rig tonight. I'm now up to 4 pull ups on a 5" parallel box. I've had to switch to some minimal taping to prevent unsightly blood loss, but even with that slight cheat My confidence has certainly taken a boost, I truly believe that I can seize my next chance in both hands and throttle it soundly. I've even managed to get of the ground with the mash potato set non-goofy...
...Sorry I seen to be inventing language. What I mean is I've found that my favoured stack for parallel cracks is with one fist setting pinkie to the rock and the other thumb against crack (mash potato) Now being a lefty I'm setting my left consistently pinkie to the wall (goofy, as in boarding) as this allows a better "squish", but I'm now working on non-goofy. Another key tip seems to be butting the heel of your palm into a "strong" thumb of the other fist.
This is probably all 101 type knowledge over the pond, but I'm slowly clawing my way into new territory for me.
This kind of specific training is nothing new to me. I've found that where intuition, or basically my body, fails me, I have to lean on the appliance of science to get through. One Sport route I put up in the quarries required me to force my thigh muscles to hoist my right calf to chest height with out any other assistance.
Next step is to increase to 6" parallel, pretty much the limit for my diminutive fists
Effort in equals Effort out.
Thus is the path for those blessed with obsession over talent
Cliffs below, cliffs above. By Stevie Haston.
20 hours ago