Tick Report - February

So things are beginning to kick off...

The month kicked off with some throws at tick 7, I think the failure came down to a lack of back up, its so hard to push on on a lone trip like that, once I'm happier with the fall then even the central line might fall, just go to give it some. Its frustrating also that my commitments to work and my beautiful family, meant the next window of opportunity would be the 27th, some three weeks later. 

so I schemed and hit the training..

On the slivers. The plan was pull up, drop off times 3, 5 mins rest, repeat three times. So a running warm up, 100 easy moves, three pull ups on the beastmaker 1000 jugs, rest. three on big slots, rest, 2 more sets on reducing sizes, finishing on the beastmaker 2000 small edges. I then surprised myself by cracking out three on the slivers. 5 mins rest. then 4 easily. 5 mins off, then I did 5....

Knocked it on the head, I knew I was going at it like the randy dog I was trying to avoid, but it felt so satisfying. At least i could get a few days rest in before trying again..

Ooops

I ended up setting this rather fun F7a+ the next day as we needed a cash prize problem, and we wanted to get this sexy volume on the wall. My elbows didn't thank me. Time to hit the bottle. So 3 weeks to get the rehab on the go, my ongoing self repair included a trip to a mighty fine NHS physio to assist in kicking my shoulders into shape. learnt a new exercise as well, and we're targeting an area that may have been originally aggravated by a crucifix into a gaston at Eldon square in '96...

The weeks advanced and the 27th was a sure fire sun trap, then a stormy day with snow, then a cloudy day with drizzle. By the night before, the body didn't ache much, and a posse was forming. Not only that but pad offers were trickling in...

 The last pick up, 300m from bus stop. with two spotters and 7 highbll pads already in the car, this one travelled on the roof, with Derw securing it out the window..

And the sun shone as Derw got us organised... but the walk in was rather comedy, and unfortunately we were too busy stumbling to photo Mark the cuboid snail with three DMM highballs clipped together in a block, and Ben with his leaning hightower of Pod.

First job on arrival was to abb the line and give it some chalk. I spent a lot of time thinking about this over the last month, and given all the tasks I've set myself, and the fact that the wife Forbade me from breaking my legs, meant I was going to give myself some help.

Glad I did because the winter has loosened some of the flakes (the line follows twin crack/seams up the middle of the wall) and rather than being spat off bleeding onto my head, I was able to remove the buggers, and blunt off any knives. Slate can be like that, and while the top got a bit harder, a couple of jugs opened up lower down. It wasn't going to be F7A anymore.. but it would be safe.

We also forgot to photo our warm up antics at Suncharm ledge, where we duly crushed the Escape Groove and Flock of Flying Butt Monkeys, were chastened by Maurice Chevalier, and I also got up the Groove of Smooth...

Looking at the line, I like this photo due to the fact it shows the whole route up to the finishing jug rail.

Setting up for what turned out to be the crux, although there's good food for thought in the last two moves...

Getting High.

Again the photo is useful as it shows the quality of the slate either side. these are free of the cracks Neverfall follows and will clean up to be nice and hard. You can also see my random chalking up and pink tick marks, slate often only unlocks in the climbing, so I wasn't going to risk a vital hold being overlooked.

OK. Tick; The main tick for me was to get Neverfall done, especially after all that ground work, I was keen for some paydirt. But with all the ticks on the list, there's minor ticks (Frontside arete on tick 7 come to mind), main ticks (Neverfall and Tumbleweed on tick 8) and super ticks.
These would be the lines either side of Neverfall (Derw and Muskrat are super keen), and the front face of the Cube (Gleaning the Cube). I think every tick has its super ticks, ones I'm very happy to hand over, but maybe, just maybe....

Upcoming action for March..
Tides are rubbish on my main days off, but Benllech and tick 5 are definitely on the radar as Ben's psyche rises. Off to Dyffryn Mymbyr next week if the weather's nice so a brace of ticks up there.
and there's also tick 1...

I Never Fell

So Ben, Derw and myself went and did the Deed Today...

Job one was chalking the line, which went well until I started brushing the holds off. Turns out the winter had loosened some flakes, which in the cause of self preservation, I removed and made right. This deleted the jugs from the top section and added some in the middle. Hard bottom, steady middle, thin top. and a grade reduction, Happy days.

Job two was warm up at Suncharm Ledge. Derw and Ben hadn't played here before, so it was a chance to introduce them to Maurice Chevalier...

Job Three.

Three Ascents. No Falls.
Neverfall F6B+! M.Dicken 27/2/15

Three strikes and yer off...

Beautiful day today so went up to the cube, on my lonesome (boo hoo)

My plan was to try a snow platform, my lake of shovel didn't put me off... fortunately the remaining snow had hardened and as it had never been trodden on, was easy to peel off the heather in huge chunks.

when I arrived the pit was looking ouchy with that big boulder..

soon buried under hard snow...

I then started working the Backside Arete project (should that be Goofy Arete?) and it certainly was exciting. No falls but plenty of jumps. Failing due to being too scared is a hard thing to accept, better to back off due to it feeling too difficult to attempt safely. I know, its a fine line.

Here are my last three attempts:

I think I won't be returning without 2 spotters and maybe 4 more mats.. I don't think I can get back up this month anyway, so if anyone wants to make use of my snow platform, be my guest.

Tick Report - January

Well happy new year folks, I wish the weather would make up its mind...
My first tick report has good news; Tick no. 8 has given me an ascent! Of course this leads me to want more...
The direct sitter is blatant, and a better problem, and a lot harder. Things to do: Patio, after last time I'm not repeatedly hitting that landing. Also, try a scooter rather than a trike for the descent. I'm not in the mood to patio right now, so 8 is on the back burner unless someone joins in.

As an aside I'm a little happier that the grade of Tumbleweed is somewhere between 6C+/7A. This is due to a lovely weekend with a sadly aging Fatneck (at a rate of 60sec/per minute no less!) I ventured past Pwllheli for the first time in over 2 years to enjoy the boulders of Rhiw, mucking about at the Shelter Boulders (invert off a wing) and flashing Gwefus Ddreinog 6C+ and eventually getting Berrial 7A after 5 goes. lots of fun to be had here, although Mr Hayward has hoovered up most of the plum lines..

Looking along Berrial at Mr Crouch dwarfing the Ddreinog boulder. Given that these are being bigged up as a class venue, it makes me even more proud of the blocks of Dyffryn Mymbyr, which definitely withstand comparison...

Right this month has not all been about Tick no. 8, I also visited Tick no.12 lounging near the bottom of the list. I got agonisingly close to this once, only to be thwarted by elbows, so I was keen to asertain exactly what I was up against.

A respectable angle

These are the starting holds people, a bounce off poor feet off to the side latches another poor hold (did this once), matches and bounces again for the boss on the lip, mantle, and sip champagne.

Working Title of the project: Skadoosh

 As ever with fatherhood...

We really want to see those fingers folks

Specifically, we want to see them stronger, now with all the shoulder stuff going on at the moment, I want to have to maintain form as perfect as possible, and work intensity for as little as possible. Hence I screwed these slivers either side of the Beastmaker at work:

Shaped for as open a grip as possible (no thumbs!) I can hang them long enough to pull up, but not lower down. 3 reps and I'm done. Unfortunately, I've been so busy at work, there has not been many safe windows to do this, but I'd prefer a long term slow gain, rather than, going at it like a randy dog and breaking myself.

Other schemes and plans. I get a window to play, most Monday and Friday mornings, so a dry day goes through the plan sorter. If warmer than 10 degrees, get a posse for Neverfall, if no-one about then reccy Tick no. 14. If colder than 10 degrees, get a posse for the cube, if not enough peeps then go to Georges crack; to my shame I still haven't done it....

Slow start, but a positive one.

Tick Update - Tick no.8

I had an hour to play today that I managed to stretch to 2, this meant that I could pack a mini adventure and March up to Marchlyn Mawr Reservoir to try tick no.8
My coat contained drinks, sweeties, brushes and fingertape, My boulderpad, just shoes, chalkbag and a kids fold up trike for the journey down(no, it didn't work out too well). I was travelling light.

It took 30 mins to get to this view:

...And another 15 to slip and slide over the verglassed rock to get to the boulder

This is a screen grab of the boulder, the landing was a little rougher than I remembered (3 pads and a spotter folks, unless you want to patio it properly first). However, I was tight on time, and I didn't want to turn round and go home.. so it all got a bit trad.

an older pic of the boulder showing off the arete

I pulled onto Erodeo for a warm up and then had a pull on the stand.

Scary.

Pushed through the fear.

Nailed it.

Then the silly thought came, what if I came in from the Erodeo sit start? It would make a less morpho and consistent problem, but I'm going to be blowing above a less than perfectly managed landing..

This is the result:

Think I'm calling it Tumbleweed. As for grade, I'm having a crisis at the moment as I haven't tried anything established for a while, somewhere in the F6C/7A ballpark anyway. The conditions were mint, dry windy and just below the snowline, so things were stacked in my favour. Enough for me to consider the direct sit next winter....

Watch this space

The To-Do List

Happy New Year and all that.
This post is a way of collecting all last years Open Projects in one place,  throwing a couple of other aims, and putting some strategy in place. At the end of each month I'll report back, reflect and mentally kick my own arse into gear.

Here's the list, in some order of personal excitement.

Tick 1 -The Joe Brown Project
Location: Twll Mawr
Requirements: Dry rock, Determination, Courage, and possibly a Rope Gun.
The Sketch: Wait until spring and coerce the Keen Calum.

Tick 2 - Neverfall
Location: Neverneverland
Requirements: About 6 pads, some spotters, some courage, some skin
The Sketch: Warm up at Suncharm ledge, take some abb kit if some of the holds are too loose/sharp

Tick 3 - Nant Gwrtheyrn Bloc and DWS
Location: Nant Gwrtheyrn
Requirements: Summer! the bloc needs low tide and better hip flexibility for the last line, the DWS requires courage, and a few changes of kit.
The Sketch: Wait until Summer, and assemble a team of like minded souls.

Tick 4 - The Super Prow
Location: Cwmffynnon
Requirements: Top rope kit, a brush, an increase of personal ability
The Sketch: I'm not looking for a personal ascent off top rope, although I'd been keen to assess the feasibility for others, but I want to get the direct and make good links on the true line, we'll give the visit a whole day (get the bus or a lift?) and take pads for satellite boulders.

Tick 5 - The Tosheroon
Location: Benllech
Requirements: old tough jacket, stout socks and lots of tape, 2 mats for the top out, warm conditions for barnacle wrangling. a Low tide below 1.5-2m.
The Sketch: Wait until spring then get Ben psyched again.

Tick 6 - Porth Howel
Location: Llithfaen
Requirements: A few mats, some company, some dry weather for some of the walls
The Sketch: Just keen to re-visit with a crowd, if I get a bit better (as planned) the low traverse may go, also have a cool trad project to try which requires a low tide.

Tick 7 - The Cube
Location: Dyffryn Mymbyr
Requirements: about 6 mats and a couple of spotters, a bit more ability
The Sketch: There are 2 lines left to do, and they are both above the most complicated landing; the Backside arete (left arete of Manly Groove, right arete of the Cube, climbed on its left side) and Gleaming the cube - the direct through the steepness and up the slab. The arete is totally possible now given suitable fall management, the direct is proper boss, and will require steelier fingers.

Tick 8 - Marchlyn Grit
Location: Marchlyn Mawr reservoir
Requirements: Pads and probably a spotter, a low tide(!) for some of the satellite boulders
The Sketch: I really want to climb the central stand, the sit is well beyond me, but some feasibility studies for next year won't hurt

Tick 9 - Trixibelle
Location: Dyffryn Mymbyr
Requirements: Pads, a belayed spotter for the moves after the crux dyno, a hike up in ability.
The Sketch: Start with some solo visits, take some abb kit for cleaning and feasibility studies, when happy return with a crew.

Tick 10 - The Old Pier Prow
Location: Trefor
Requirements: Low tide, possibly spring tide to get a better pebble level, healthy elbows, dry windy (warm?) conditions. A rise in ability.
The Sketch: I need to be sleek and steely, and I'm not sure when the best conditions would be. Access is quick though so maybe a series of test visits once I've beaten myself into shape.

Tick 11 - Caedafydd Boulders
Location: Nantmor
Requirements: Many pads, a good spotter / patio team.
The Sketch: I'm not putting myself forward for the Koyamada roof, but I have a little line in a backwater to deal with. The main thing is to get some psyche and buzz going for the place. a visit will be made at some point with a enthusiastic crew.

Tick 12 - James' Boulder
Location: Cwm y Glo
Requirements: Myself in peak form
The Sketch: get myself in peak form and do it!

Tick 13 - The Whale of Galedffrwd
Location: Mynydd Llandegai
Requirements: A bit of dry weather to lower the stream, a spotter, some good sloper conditions
The Sketch: This might be an Autumn project.

Tick 14 - Craig Bach Cwm Uchaf
Location: Cwm Uchaf, Llanberis Pass
Requirements: A bit vague this one as its just something I spotted from afar, but it certainly looks intriguing...
The Sketch: A walk with Abb kit, possibly coincide with a look at this.


So there it is, a full list for one year, but with lesser pressure targets such as more obscure spots, and possibly some classics at Tremadog, and Gogarth (do my first Big G route...) to fill the gaps I expect to be happily occupied in 2015.

Have a good one!

Aims for 2015

Hee hee I just wanted that to pop up on UKB...

Anyhoo, This year has been one of trying to be normal, then tentatively getting back in the saddle of the new. Twelve open projects, well... Opened, and new routes in Twll Mawr.
Next year is simply the logical continuation. Complete the projects to a level of personal satisfaction, and get happy in Twll Mawr.

Today I got out for a visit to Open Project June:

Unfortunately I chose to ignore my advice about walking along the inside of the wall, as the path outside looked so easy and flat. I obviously forgot about the bottomless blubbery bogs....
(socks, trousers and wellies drying in the sun, went above knee but not as far as groin..)


Time was limited so I rigged a rope and cleaned the next toy; the left arete.

I only went and got it 1st go! and enjoyed it enough to repeat it for the cameras:

Frontside Arete F6C! (thinking the cube needs a sk8 theme...)

 

So as well as The Cube, Tosheroon, Neverfall, and of course the SuperProw are in my sights..

Roll on 2015!