The Other Side of 50

 I seem to be using Instagram far more than dipping into writing on the blog. Although I can see a time when this effectively transfers across, it still ain't dead yet...

The idiocy that is the Padshaw!

This year has been one of introspection. This started with the race to condition my body into something stronger and more robust before I entered my second half century. On the whole this has been successful, with more careful monitoring of the feedback from my body and a more scientific commitment to consistently nudging it forward.

Never thought I'd lift weights

As a metric for this, I had the whimsical notion of climbing something a grade harder than I've previously accomplished. I've climbed a few things given F7B, so decided to try and find a F7B+ boulder to work on over the year. I knew I needed something that played to my comfort zones of technique and finger strength ( there are no jamming boulders of that grade locally), and after discounting some aretes ( balance not so good) I'd settled on Ultimate Warrior.

The move eludes

Since that first visit back in February, I've had 8 further sessions. Apart from one where I learnt the value of gaining good conditions, it has been steady if microscopic progress. Every session teaches me something. I've learnt about connecting a heel hook through the core, targeting minor muscles to provide dynamic movement in awkward positions, and the importance of rest. 

I get about 10 goes at the crux before I'm rolling down the downhill slope. When a hard boulder is as cruxy as this you can really tune into the subtleties of movement. Once I'd started touching the target hold, I had a crisis about what was going to allow me to keep hold of it, worrying that my heel skills were too clumsy. However, another session came and I was able to see it was the coordination of arms and shoulders that will bring success.

My fiftieth birthday came and still no ascent. I did however have a great session on another project..

What this space on that one.

So what have I learnt?

That consistency in training keeps you climbing. 

That if you pick a project that's really hard you have to be patient.

That some of the climbing I've done trying unclimbed projects was probably harder than 7B.

Hopefully Ultimate Warrior will happen before Christmas, I'm certainly now allowing myself more time on other projects, but I also hope I keep learning. Not a bad mindset to take into your second half century.