Sunday, 21 March 2010

Giveaway Project of the Month -March

Back in Gods own Country for this month and another Dyffrym Mymbyr boulder, follow the wire fence up for this one. and bring a team of Spotters as the landing is a bit slopey. (mat for scale)

happy landings...

Saturday, 6 March 2010

LLAMFF and life stuff

Did my talk "The Daddy club- How to have an epic and still be back for bathtime" to a small but receptive audience last night, Included this awsome slide that proves there's class bouldering in the quarries. Got to climb with a rope today tho' First time outside since October. I will admit itt made me a bit emotional, must be going soft, but there's a lot to be said for this climbing lark.
Must try harder

Thursday, 18 February 2010

Never Trust a Hippy part2

Finaly went back to clean this thing with some gear to keep me in. All was going good until I reached a 3m section of Doris. Not for a soon-to-be father of three. Maybe if someone else goes to town with this section It may clean up, but for me I'm off to examine the project list I gave to the aformentioned hippy, to see if there isn't another plum worthy of the name.

Friday, 5 February 2010

Giveaway Project of the Month- January and February


January has been rammed with work and organising the BMC Youth climbing series. Consequently we've reached February and no project was released from the vaults. To pay for this grave error this giveaway is a biggie.
Take note anyone going to host for the BMC International meet this year as these projects are in Haldrine Cove, a couple of minutes scramble from Bosigran, and both are single pitch, so quick to capture.

First on the wave cut platform at the back of the cove is both an overhanging arete, and a corner crack groove thing, both appear Low to Mid Extreme. There is also a blank wall of matchstick edges, and a paddable base.

Secondly the bay on the far side of the wave cut platform is a line I coveted for years, but have not had the chance to seize. The right wall of the bay is a particularly wave polished bulging sweep of prime cornish granite. Bisecting this is a sweeping hand crack, bottomed out in places by a typical bosigran "coal seam". This would provide a stiff challenge in jamming and an aesthetic jewel in anyones crown.

There. Given away a prized posession, I'll try not to forget March's gift...

Friday, 15 January 2010

New Year, New Adventure

Well I seem to have succesfully avoided being tempted out onto the ice for another year, Shame really as the memories of my last ordeal of hypothermic masochism seemed to have all but faded now in the stream of enthusiastic babble my friends are spouting, maybe next year...

I also have news of more mini hosey's on the way so the ultimate adventure seems to be growing somewhat, I'll have to refine and improve the fast and light "expresso" adventure so watch this space.

I've also submitted my title for LLAMFF this year:

The Daddy Club - How to have an epic and still be back for Bathtime
The Adventure of fatherhood, and trying to balance extreme enthusiasm for esoteric adventure with emptying the nappy bin.

I'm feeling in need of more material so anybody want to experiece some lovely adventure, do get in touch..

Sunday, 27 December 2009

Giveaway Project of the Month - December

Went for a walk with the family on Christmas Day. The quarries was all snowy and seemed a popular destination for crimbo jollies with foot and paw prints going off in all directions. We got as far as looning the tube before the Boys tummy was rumbling, But Got a couple of snaps off that reminded me of an old project..


Now above the Oildrum Glacier is an Water course that freezes each year, Its in the shadows in the above photo (important), I've blown it up below off a different angle.

You can see the bottom half is well whited up; this is a forty five degree slab, above it the water runs over blocky ledges and often mushrooms in winter, It looks a little lean in this piccy.

Of course Its all thawed now, but it does seem the right time of year to giveaway a winter project, and I'm sure it'll return.

Enjoy


Friday, 18 December 2009

Two steps forward..

Had a rare afternoon to flog myself up to the Mighty 'Tashe boulder last sunday, This is my current vaguely secret pebble obsession on the lovely hillside of Wales somewhere. Despite the cold I still found myself puffing a bit on the slog in (wellies this time -top kit) although that might be because I was also dragging up my new bouldering pad, a 4ft by 8 stunt pad curtesy of "Clash of the Titans".
The 'Tashe itself is a 30ft long sliver of slopeyness, that I started toying with last year, getting two upward lines, and half the traverse (left hand 'tashe) done. With a feeling of leaness, and doing rather well in this pulling on plastic stuff, I thought I may have a chance at the Full 'Tashe itself.

It took a whole session to get the Left hand bit..

Plastic strength don't mean much, I've got to get up in them thar hills.

Once again praying for babysitters..