Tuesday, 29 September 2015

A Visit to the Dark Side

So it turns out baby number four is not quite as nails as a simultaneous arrival of babies 2 and 3. This coupled with some autumn sun has meant I've been chomping to get out and about. While I'm currently suffering from general weakness, I've realised that throwing myself at the long term goals (LTG's) is not going to help. I've been mulling on what I have done in the past when in this situation, and dredged up this old List. Thinking back, Jamming has got me well strong, especially the steep stuff, and the worthwhile bouldering specimens tend to be beautifully technical too. Life is busy, so I've trimmed the list to now only contain suitably steep mountain Jamming boulder problems, I'll return to the coastal stuff later.
Ladies, and Gentlemen, the new and improved...
Fist List
(Welsh Inland)
1.Georges Crack 7A
2. Big bad Bari 6C
3. Crack House G2
4. Dangleberries 6B+
5. Happy Feet 6B+
 6. Quack Crack 6B+
7. Teyrn Roof Crack 6B

So no. 1. 3. and 4. were still to be done (2. 5, and 6 were my own anyhoo). George had been subtly encouraging me to visit his Crack House, so that became the next mission. I've always been intrigued by the Dark side of Dyffryn Mymbyr, the boggy flanks of Moel Siabod always just out of strolling distance. To make a swift first reccy I enquired at Garth farm, if I could cross his land. He's a nice chap and said yes.


The view from Garth. this point is as far as you want to go without wellies.

Creig'ir Garth, home to some pegged E6's that look fairly savage.

The location of the Crack House, my map reading meant that I first had to reconnoiter all the top ridge first...

Inside the crack house.

My first visit was like Georges, solo, and without mat, I had a good go , but was afraid of braining myself on the ledge that guards the exit. 

Following a quixotic urge, my next visit started at my usual parking spot for Mymbyr, much further up the valley. My reasoning was that as long as I was exploring, I'd better leave no stone unfondled. I'd also heard this idyllic grassy valley was a boggy nightmare, and was keen to wet my wellies.


hidden blocs in the bog


almost out the bog

Looking down on the Crack house cluster

This time I had a mat! (just the one mind) and this reassurance that I wasn't going to fracture my cranium while committing to the baggy jams was all I needed.
The grade (G2) refers to the number of goes George took to complete it. My previous session doubled this number, but this time I cruised it, twice so I could film a couple of angles..

video

Come and do it, its ace (maybe 6B+), also the hills have many opportunities for the explorer:




I'll poke around a bit more in the future, and I'll knock those last two off the list, then the enchainments can start....

Watch this space

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