Send-Tember is around the corner, and I'm starting to line up some time to tackle these open projects. All my kids will be attending school full time for the first time, so when I'm not at work I'll have a whole 5 hours and 45 minutes to pursue the dream.
Super prow and the Neverfall project are obviously high on the list, with hopefully some repeat visits. I'm still lacking mileage, but I'm hoping to nail the Tosheroon too.
Mainly though, due to convenience, available quality existing problems, and personal love, I think I'm going to be hiking up to Dyffryn Mymbyr...
Thus this months Open Project is the biggest plum I've found up there so far: Giveaway April '13
The lowest arrows are your starting holds; a sloper and a crimp. these are reached from a sitter with feet cammed in the block. What follows is a lot of clever foot work that, combined with some slapping brings you to a compression like stance at the end of the main slopey rail.
This sequence eluded me on that visit, probably not helped by my fitness levels. The next move, however is likely to be the crux. A massive dyno to the next arrow (well, the chalk to the right of it..) BOOM.
I'm psyched to work it upto this point, especially as upto this hold, the landing is conventional enough. The next section is a little close to the end of the flat, and the hill slopes away rather severely. All within a highball range, but some rafting of mats and tethering of spotters will be required. I have a whimsical notion of binding a taco mat into a D shape at the base of the raft to make a "catcher" platform to pile more mats on....
However I'll try to latch the dyno before resorting to mad science.
As for project names, I'm considering Trixibelle.
Setting yourself goals, by Stevie Haston.
6 days ago