Friday, 3 May 2013

Quack Crack Bloc

Here is the Quack Crack bloc:
The central crack is Quack Crack F6B+, which goes from a sitter. The overhanging nature of this boulder, coupled with its annoying dearth of foot holds make most of the sitter's very hard indeed. I was up here again yesterday playing on a few problems and managed only one other sitter; Fat Duck Arête F6B on the left hand side starting off a pinch on the arête and a side pull for the right hand. Good boppy fun. I also did a stand start on the shield immediately left off opposing arête's. I played on both finishes (the righthand exit is best) and almost linked it from a sitter similar to fat duck arête, although a fist jam replaced the pinch. I was thinking, although fun, my jumpy moves into the standing start position was a bit eliminate, as you could just slope up the right arête. However, looking back at the pic's I think a toe hook could make going into the standing start position the more sensible method.
A couple of stander's on the left hand side; Ball's Groove F6A+ takes the obvious clean hanging groove, and starts with hands on the left arête. The Chalked crimps to the right of the groove are the start of a Fast Cars type thing - Love Battery F6C finishes out right on the nose. Linking into this from the start of Quack Crack would be the send of the Bloc.

I'm quite keen to return with a wad to tidy up some of these bits, let me know if you're up for it.

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