So here we are, half way through the year. This month I have mainly been aspiring. That is I really want to climb stuff, but I am not yet up to scratch. Therefore its been training, reconnoitering, and cogitating.
Georges crack and Big Bari have been my training ground for advanced suffering, such as I would need for Tosheroon. After the first session on Georges, I had set up another date, with partners and every thing. But, then one of my Son's lost the school's dog (a stuffed one) and I had to bail to Pwllhelli Haven to see if they had found it. Returning with all the dogs paraphernalia (but no dog) I stopped in at Shale city to follow up on the point of interest raised while out with my brother.
This ended up with me down here with nothing but my rockboots and a smile...
No obviously this wasn't low tide, or high tide, but somewhere inbetween...
Here's what it looks like on a pretty damn low tide. on this previous exploration I assumed this was the low tide norm....
The traversing around was fun, and I had hoped to coincide with enough low tide to explore at a wade. However, the water proved to be fairly deep.
The dark slash roof is the one of the first cave
almost shown in this pic...
So the sideways shuffling not only gave crap pics, but didn't give me access to the suspected bouldering... Yes I ended up swimming, but even though my phone claims to be waterproof, I was too chicken to take it with me. What I saw was that the suspected bouldering was another mirage, but this cave system may give some cool DWS, although with it being Shale city, the top out may be a little interesting...
Exciting enough to inspire this Ebay purchase (£28)
First it was the scooter, now a rubber dingy, Is this the normal actions of a 40 year old man? probably..
Talking of being old, or at least feeling it, more progress with the physio this month. Having done my 20 min physio exercise routine twice a day for a fortnight, we discovered that it wasn't really cutting the mustard, so I've been bumped up once more through the NHS ranks to the next level of specialist staff. All I want to do is not be afraid of coughing my back out in the morning....
On a plus side, I'm back setting at the wall, and it seems I still enjoy it, and am not damaging myself further. I also can lead 6c+ in a laden Navaho harness unclipping the static on the way, so what training I'm doing is obviously sticking.
Although I think its pinch gripping the towel I use for 5 minutes of hamstring stretches twice a day that's having the real effect.
Following climbing the Baron, I've sort of got disenchanted with dealing with Twll Mawr. There's been a lot of argy bargy, and opinions flying about. I'm hoping that the next BMC Cymru meeting on the 16th of July will be a chance to settle things down. On the plus side Ian Lloyd-Jones has put up an ace looking trad crack pitch on the south side of Twll Mawr; Lost in the Echo. Its a line I've often admired in the past, and would link very nicely into Tales of the Golden Monkey.
And as if by magic, it reached the ground (just) clearly a bit longer than 100m...
Watch this space.
So half way through.
I started with 14 projects, and none of them have been mined out. One however was returned to the dealer for another card. I've had three(ish) successes, and a fair bit of milage, but I'm finding my original psyche for the projects ebbs and flows. Especially with the dues i'm having to pay to get them done, be it ground work, training, battling the tides, or simply being arsed. My windows of opportunity are slimming down, so those more time heavy ticks are slipping somewhat.
I chose to get some science on the list:
...So The List now in order of Personal Psyche
What more could you wan't? pain, suffering, technical difficulty, a narrow tide window and its also quite burly. Got to get Georges crack done first as its a good benchmark (topical) for this sort of suffering, and it isn't tidal.
2. Marchlyn Mawr.
This could be my first proper hard new boulder problem. Training is ongoing, and I'm keen for a social visit to get some extra opinions, and introduce others to the pretty good circuit that's developing
Never thought I'd take this seriously, but it works my weaknesses so well, whats not to like?
4. Nant Gwrtheyrn
Bring on warmer sea temperatures! a proper ready made playground. I've been advised that DWS on your own is a bit stupid, so I'll be recruiting some mates.
5. Trefor DWS
Bit more serious this. However, once I've found a way of barnacle proofing the boat (I'm considering a rubble sack) and I've got some knackered wires and old tat to rig the caves, it could be a right giggle.
6. The Cube.
Boss line, rubbish landing. will need a team, or a proper snow drop.
(Top Six are all Whoop Whoop! what follows are the Hmmmmmm's)
7. Twll Mawr Trad.
8. Llugwy Bouldering
Interesting one this, as the walk in make it time heavy, and the ride out is tire heavy. However, there could be a cool little circuit up there..
9. The Super Prow
Extreme top roping with an hour walk in, and a chunk of cleaning required. Again, a Boss line.
Surprised how I felt about this slight line one James' Boulder. I'm way off the bounce required to visit yet.
11. Porth Howel
Let others hoover it up, however, I'll certainly visit again
12. The Whale.
The Whale abides... will probably get done on a whim.
Again surprised how low this came out, but the remaining line are proper hard, and I haven't the time to give to them (surprisingly I'm not that awesome at slabs)
14. Cae Dafydd
Got at least one line I may return to, but having done a bit, and the landings are.... inventive. I think I've done my time on the ground works crew..
So there we go. If I mine out the top 6 ticks I'll be well made up. However, as I have a Daughter arriving mid September, I'll be well made up anyways.
(I haven't bothered back linking the ticks, as you either already know about them, don't care, or need no further encouragement to nick 'em)
Here's to a progressive July.