Friday, 21 October 2011

An Alternative List

After much digesting of the new Llanberis Slate guide, I'm on the cusp of some form of enlightenment:

  1. I have been far too busy looking for unclimbed rock when the climbed bits are quite good

  2. I may have a diferent view on what makes a good slate experience...

Traditional views on what makes a good slate route:

  1. Strong line

  2. Memorable moves

  3. Reliable protection

  4. Trustworthy rock

  5. Wanting to climb that route again

In my quests and foray's into the slate realm I've been drawn to a slightly skewed criteria:

  1. Memorable setting

  2. Magnetic line

  3. Guarenteed adventure

  4. An intimate psychological experience

  5. A Good Name

Therefore, here is my alternative slate list:

  1. Act Naturally (p77) Still my favorite VS.

  2. See you Bruce (p81) My first E3 lead (back when it only had 2 bolts).

  3. Big Thursday (p56) Inspected but not started yet (still toying with a solo like Buffer).

  4. The Serpent Vein (p97) A memorable belay duty.

  5. Dali Mirror (p102) Sandbag-tastic.

  6. California Arete (p119) best experienced in solitude.

  7. Fruit of the Gloom (p122) an equal balance of desire and revulsion.

  8. Taith Mawr (p172) (trumpet blowing alert) a proud moment.

  9. Bushmaster with the Scorpion finish (p172) all that is good about Joe Brown routes.

  10. Josy Puss (p181) the line! the line! (still lacking courage).

  11. Rainbow of Recalcitrance (p203) one day..

  12. Come inside (p225) again, a good solo experience.

  13. Liquid Armbar (p290) (trumpet blowing alert) distilled sweat in a jewel of an arena

  14. Bring me the head of Don Quixote (p299) (trumpet blowing alert) I didn't give it stars in the guide as it's specialist enjoyment, but a stout adventure in another surreal hole.

  15. Giddy Variations on a Theme (p304) less a line, more a desire.

Five left to do

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