Friday, 29 April 2011

Moose's Wall is Open for Business

I've had a couple of evenings free over the last month, 40 minutes here, 90 minutes there, not enough to go mad or anything. I've used it to decipher G's instructions and get about cleaning the Fabled lost wall of Moose; First discovered by Mike Thomas, Matt Anthoine and other hero's.
Last night was the last of these gardening missions and what a pleasant one it was too..

The wall is high, sphincter tighteningly so, but does have a cowards wall on the right. Very nice it is too, as long as you're au fait with old skool crozzly crimps and enjoy thin thin climbing, its mega absorbing.
I must admit this wall was the last thing I turned too as I'm not that good at this sort of thing. I turned to the cracks which required nut keys, lapis brushes, secateurs and a penknife to return to their former 80's glory. The shorter (less high) crack was seiged first, and was quite friendly until the slightly font top out.

The Biggun was unjustifiable for a punter on his own with only one mat. Unfortunately it also has the pulling power of an ultraviolet exterminator, and I found myself wedging my toes far too high up whilst far too high up.
Fortunately for a family man such as myself it all went swimmingly and I beached over the top.

So there it is, go to it. I've left a pirate's rope in place for swinging about and brushing holds, and three of the problems are chalked up. I haven't found out from Moose whether anything has names. The Biggun is no harder than V5, The Right Craic is no harder than V3, and the Coward's Wall is maybe V5 from a stand up, with a sitter feasible. Moose's main wall probably needs more brushing (and a bigger capacity for bravery) and there is a seam leading into the biggun from the right. More maybe unearthed but these are the good stuff.

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