The Holy Trinity of Weather, freetime (thanks Mum for the Babysitting) and a climbing partner has all coincided Today!
The Result is "Liquid Armbar" E4 6a. Yes today I didn't fall off, rest on gear (or pull on it) or even get tempted by the handy abb rope (backing up the belay).
Ivan came along for the ride and I was extremely grateful for his calm support, We go way back, but life lately has got in the way and we've not climbed much together (soon to be remedied).
He was very close to showing me up by seconding in trainers, but unfortunately the abb rope beckoned...
Once I collapsed onto the resurrection ledge, I knew that it was going to be cool. Slight worry as this time I was climbing with 2 wild country 6's rather than camalots and it showed when I started the wide second section, Camalots are a lot more stable in the wide. This gave me an excuse to dawdle on the ledge fishing for the other six lodged way down in the crack, with 2 slings and doctored crabs.
All that practise certainly paid off (although I didn't stack in any meaning full way) I certainly felt strong and concentrated more on finding rests rather than panicking. Less blood this time as well. I might, however, invest in some thin neoprene ankle supports as these might be less faff.
Don't worry Tom BTW I have a new unclimbed slate offwidth in my sights and the lead is all yours...
Cilfan y Coed 8A+
4 days ago
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