Giveaway Project of the Month - December

Went for a walk with the family on Christmas Day. The quarries was all snowy and seemed a popular destination for crimbo jollies with foot and paw prints going off in all directions. We got as far as looning the tube before the Boys tummy was rumbling, But Got a couple of snaps off that reminded me of an old project..


Now above the Oildrum Glacier is an Water course that freezes each year, Its in the shadows in the above photo (important), I've blown it up below off a different angle.

You can see the bottom half is well whited up; this is a forty five degree slab, above it the water runs over blocky ledges and often mushrooms in winter, It looks a little lean in this piccy.

Of course Its all thawed now, but it does seem the right time of year to giveaway a winter project, and I'm sure it'll return.

Enjoy

Two steps forward..

Had a rare afternoon to flog myself up to the Mighty 'Tashe boulder last sunday, This is my current vaguely secret pebble obsession on the lovely hillside of Wales somewhere. Despite the cold I still found myself puffing a bit on the slog in (wellies this time -top kit) although that might be because I was also dragging up my new bouldering pad, a 4ft by 8 stunt pad curtesy of "Clash of the Titans".
The 'Tashe itself is a 30ft long sliver of slopeyness, that I started toying with last year, getting two upward lines, and half the traverse (left hand 'tashe) done. With a feeling of leaness, and doing rather well in this pulling on plastic stuff, I thought I may have a chance at the Full 'Tashe itself.

It took a whole session to get the Left hand bit..

Plastic strength don't mean much, I've got to get up in them thar hills.

Once again praying for babysitters..

Never Trust a Hippy

Well Its about time I moved onto my next project...
About 2 years ago I gave a friend a list of about 5 unclimbed trad projects in the slate quarries as he said he was quite keen to do one. As of today they are all still unclimbed. I thought I'd have a go at this one:


My memories of it were a widish crack going up a corner, So blessed by babysitting I had 2 hours to run in abb down, clean and run out again. I set off fast and light, with abb rope, helmet, harness, a few screwgates and my cleaning kit. This was 15:30, I was in place by 4 with the light fading. The crack seemed steeper than I remebered. Once over the edge I saw that the abb rope was touching down 2m from the face, With me without a rack to stitch myself in.
Arse.
With the bottom 2m cleaned, I had to get out in the dark, scaling 2 pipes in the process and was back at the homestead in 1hr 58. nice if frustating day.

Operation "never trust a hippy" will continue....

Giveaway Project of the Month - November

I had a bit of difficulty picking this months freebie. I seem to be increasing in my enthusiasm for getting stuff done lately, and correspondingly my Optimism that I might actually try any of these has risen. However, snow has fallen on these thar hills and a winter mindset is now required. I have two Plum winter lines to give away, but these require more research (I.e have they been done already).

The long and the short of it is this month I'm giving away an entire unclimbed crag, although you might have to wait until its unfrozen / dry.
Meet Mynydd Drws y Coed:

This piccy is from that font of all knowledge Geograph. This is due to me forgetting my camera on my first aquaintence. I was out scrambing and the sun hit those crags on the right and made them glow like a box of Terry's all Gold. Further extensive research has failed to find any sign of prevous routes so fill your boots. The aretes look pretty clean, but I reckon the undercut butress could yield the best results.

Enjoy the walk in.

My Favourite Quarry

Got To hang out here again today, a quick two hour hit in the hideous weather. The fact that I thouroghly enjoyed myself and had plenty of adventure points just goes to show what a cool place Mancer Quarry is. Effectively i went in to scout out the buttress below Liquid Armbar for Deep Water Soloing potential (its too ledgey) but got to do some pruning on the belay tree, abseil into the lake for a swim, and observe very large newly deposited boulders...

There's also quite a lot of new routing potential here (there are only two routes in this photo)

However, I'm waiting for another rather large block to fall off before my next offwidth here is safe enough to try.

(it was a bit cold tho')

She's Quite a Lady..

Gabriel that is..

The worlds first 5.13 Squeeze chimney.

Just Knowing its there fills me with good feelings and suitable psyche to ignore the hurricane outside.

inspiring effort from Shanti

(leg lifts are going well.. must keep going)

Sucking in the gut

The price of complacency is weakeness. A dismal month of work and weather has resulted in my eye temporarily being destracted from higher things. Indoor bouldering is all well and good, but my offwidth fitness has taken a dive, at least from my highly scientific calculations.. (I can only do 2 pull ups with legs in pike rather than 6).
It is writen that without vision people perish, Well I'm wringing out the psyche! There's unclimbed rock in them there hills!
(Note the footpath to unclimbed rock leaving the level on the right)

So Those who have contact with me in the real world, I value your beration to drive me towards some semblance of fitness. The rain can't last forever!

Say hello to my little friend..

The Summer is now over, The Winter draws on...

And My Hat is out of hibernation.
Warm fuzzy feelings..

Come Inside...

Today I had personal time in the morning! This consisted of being free to read a bit, then I jumped on the old push bike and pedalled off to the Peppermint Tower, this is an area of the slate quarries where Willow was filmed and Quite a good spot to poke around..

I had originally intended some extreme afternoon alpinismm, but it was the morning and I might be getting past all that sillieness anyhoo. So I soloed Come Inside instead.

This is a lovely squeeze chimney that is definatlely worth some stars, and there's even a bolt at the top to abb off of if you have a bail out 'biner (or a rope).

Pretty chuffed, Especially as I beat the rain by a good 100 seconds or so..

Give Away Project of the Month - October

My Offering this month is a little more remote, In fact its in Cornwall, See the piccy here

This is the Porthmissen Bridge, The Proud owner of a delightful shale seaward face and one of those places I always said I'd go back to with a rack and have an adventure.

Well, I haven't had that adventure yet, so one of you lot ought to!

Tell us how it went...

Hose

Blessed by Babysitting!

The Holy Trinity of Weather, freetime (thanks Mum for the Babysitting) and a climbing partner has all coincided Today!

The Result is "Liquid Armbar" E4 6a. Yes today I didn't fall off, rest on gear (or pull on it) or even get tempted by the handy abb rope (backing up the belay).

Ivan came along for the ride and I was extremely grateful for his calm support, We go way back, but life lately has got in the way and we've not climbed much together (soon to be remedied).
He was very close to showing me up by seconding in trainers, but unfortunately the abb rope beckoned...

Once I collapsed onto the resurrection ledge, I knew that it was going to be cool. Slight worry as this time I was climbing with 2 wild country 6's rather than camalots and it showed when I started the wide second section, Camalots are a lot more stable in the wide. This gave me an excuse to dawdle on the ledge fishing for the other six lodged way down in the crack, with 2 slings and doctored crabs.

All that practise certainly paid off (although I didn't stack in any meaning full way) I certainly felt strong and concentrated more on finding rests rather than panicking. Less blood this time as well. I might, however, invest in some thin neoprene ankle supports as these might be less faff.

Don't worry Tom BTW I have a new unclimbed slate offwidth in my sights and the lead is all yours...

I'm not dead..

...There's just a dearth of notable adventures, hence the lack of posts recently.
Thought I'd better clear that up in case any souls, thought I may have been taking my research too seriously.
Life has been happening.
My boy had his first birthday, I spent 3 hours propelling myself skyward on a big bouncy pillow, I've been skulking round a climbing wall trying to think myself stronger.

But Sadly no adventures.
I'm currently trying to arrange both work, family commitments, weather, climbing partners and my physical well being to coincide with the weekend after next so I can get on that bloody crack and give it back the kicking it dealt out last time..

(still scabbed)

hosey

Giveaway Project of the Month -September

This is Mount Doom, to be found near the summit of Cefn Du. It consists of a base of igneous stuff with a wizards hat of slate dropped on top. One route is currently recorded following along the low gouge before questing up the slate above. The low smooth blunt arete is up for grabs and has a bolt belay above in the gouged terrace. Looks about F7c-8?. May require a scrub.

Do the Goofy Mash Potato..

Had a good evening on the Torture rig tonight. I'm now up to 4 pull ups on a 5" parallel box. I've had to switch to some minimal taping to prevent unsightly blood loss, but even with that slight cheat My confidence has certainly taken a boost, I truly believe that I can seize my next chance in both hands and throttle it soundly. I've even managed to get of the ground with the mash potato set non-goofy...

...Sorry I seen to be inventing language. What I mean is I've found that my favoured stack for parallel cracks is with one fist setting pinkie to the rock and the other thumb against crack (mash potato) Now being a lefty I'm setting my left consistently pinkie to the wall (goofy, as in boarding) as this allows a better "squish", but I'm now working on non-goofy. Another key tip seems to be butting the heel of your palm into a "strong" thumb of the other fist.
This is probably all 101 type knowledge over the pond, but I'm slowly clawing my way into new territory for me.
This kind of specific training is nothing new to me. I've found that where intuition, or basically my body, fails me, I have to lean on the appliance of science to get through. One Sport route I put up in the quarries required me to force my thigh muscles to hoist my right calf to chest height with out any other assistance.

Next step is to increase to 6" parallel, pretty much the limit for my diminutive fists
Effort in equals Effort out.
Thus is the path for those blessed with obsession over talent

Climbing on the anvil

Today has been a being Daddy day. Highlights include doing the whole "I'm an organised and together parent" thing while at the doctor's, while taking up most of the boy's appointment trying to get his nappy back on.. and having our sandwiches together at lunch, while laughing and dropping food (me) and pulling faces due to the discovery of mango (him).
Once we got to that sacred hour that is bedtime, I got to get on my new rig..

Having heard of training rigs on that codex of wide that is WideFetish, I decided I had to have one. Although fairly mini, It will let me beat my fists into shape, hammer-harden if you like.

I've currently got it set to about 11cm (4.5" in yank) at the bottom and 13ish at the top to give me a chance, the fist tape give a comparable friction to slate, and doesn't strip the skin too much.

I can currently do one pull up. I've also found I prefer to "mash potato" rather than fist stack in mirror image. This is probably a well known fact but I was chuffed. Next step is two pull ups, The plan is to get to five and then start tilting it more parallel.

I'm going to need more beer..

Sucking in the Hurt

So attempt no. 1 on the monster offwidth project (code name "Liquid Armbar") occured yesterday.

I hate it when a trad project doesn't go to plan....

I'd borrowed a new Camalot 6 and old style Camalot 5 to suppliment my flexifix 6, and arranged a belayer, all was positive and life affirming.

More importantly, these were big enough (just) to keep this a family man affair. It was all going so well until I started to get tired, and thirsty, and scared.
Like a sheep nibbling the verge of the A5 a bit of fear and I bolted- Straight into a layback. Quite reasonable, only there was no way to return inside and no means of topping out in this style, a rapid retreat below my last gear was followed by a plop and an awkward moment.

All was alright. Much faffing ensued, and I failed upwards to the top.

So the facts:
Its safe enough.
I can do all the moves apart from 3 feet.
The crux crack is actually only 10m.
Skin heals
Pain is forgotten

I guess its training time..

a mornings work...

Got to have a little adventure this morning. been thinking of moving back off bouldering cracks to routes and remembered a little unclimbed crack in Mancer quarry. Its in the centre of the photo below the mass of cotoneaster. Over the last week the whole lot lost its grip and plummeted into the lake, dropping a bunch of boulders with it. So it was with some trepidation that I abbed over the edge to see if it was distilled death or not. Thankfully the line was unbashed and out of the line of remaining stone shot. Unfortunately its 20m or so of unrelenting cam #6! no chicken wing, no stacks, no kneelocks, just heel toe and scissors all the way.
So anyone wanting to lend your #6 to the cause, as a family man I need about 6 or so..

Nant A-mor?

Finally got a moment to post about my mainly unsuccesful trip to Nantmor. This was due to my incomplete research, and generally looking in the wrong place. However their were many positives:

1] Its very beautiful

2] It confirmed my view that wellies are the way forward

3] I now know where not to look

4]I did find something..

This is the obvious jumbles of minibus sized boulders you see as you walk in. Unfortunately, the landings will require multiple mats, and the worthwhile lines all look brick.

This apears to be a left over project (hence the rotting abandoned ladder) The seam leading out of this 10ft horizontal roof has a few pods of possibility, fingers or gear) but generally looks brick and probably needs a rope.

I think that another walk with the family in tow may be called for.

How to crack a grin.

After a day plodding around nantmor in my wellies foraging for boulders in the wrong area, I was driving home a little dejected, when I remembered some elder figure telling me "..you should really do Gwynant Crack.."

Now for those of you that are Unaware, this is one of the first routes recorded in the Tremadog guide, a Severe with lots of character, and more importantly, 20 feet from the road.


Ditch car, Jump fence, get stuck in.
=Grin
However unlike this photo, I favoured the depths (harder to fall out)

Feeding the Stainless Steel Rat.

An obsessive needs data, it it this data that leads to finds, reduces bog trotting and provides projects and Unclimbed Rock!

This is a short guide to how the web can help an obsessive get into more trouble than he can handle.

First -The tip off:
This is a hint that there might be treasure out there. The vast array of image sites help here, such as Pixaerial (for Anglesey and particularly the Lleyn) and Geograph, which is keyword linked (eg. boulder)

Second -The shufty:
This is the ground work (in your head). It allow a bit of further inspection and maybe useful initially for the tip off as well. Sites such as Google maps, and Flash Earth allow you to scope a site, see whats there and plan an approach. However, I would always advise cross referencing it with an o/s map to check the shadows you are seeing aren't just a pebble on a steep slope. Also the distance measureing tool on google maps allows you to actually measure the length of boulders!

Third -Go get 'em!
heres a tip off, save me some cracks.

Giveaway Project of the Month -August

The Venue this month, is Craig y Llam, the place of my baptism into sea level traversing. As promised this months humble offering is a potential route, good and proper.

This little bay is just round the corner from the beach start, and could be walked to at low spring tide. The 45 degree overhanging face is spit by a thin crack which widens to hands near the top, before giving way to less vertical ramblings. The seagulls give scale, and also fair warning..

Enjoy!

Anybody out there?

I've been running this blog for 3 whole weeks now and I've got my first follower who's not related to me! (hello Jon)

To be honest I was only keeping it as somewhere to scribble down musings and important ideas, (not had any yet) but i've been gratified by those who've mentioned they've stumbed apon my witterings.

Anyhoo, Its my Birthday so if there are any locals around, I'll be in the Gallt y Glyn on Wednesday to celebrate. I'f the weathers nice I may even precede it with a pilgramage to George's, But I bet It'll Rain..

Stolen Moments

Well its been a week since my break from work, and I finally got out bouldering last night for a quick blast. Between the vagaries of work and demands of parentood, these moments can come sporadic and must be seized by both hands and preferably both feet!

After a quick warm up on cromlech roadside and a little banter with passing friends, I took myself off to Wire Brush Crack, another off the Fist List, although its only got a smattering of jams to be honest. The main reason of inclusion was its grade, being comparable (hah) to George's.

As it goes, with one mat and no spotters, it proved to be fairly exciting... But I'm proud to say another one has gone off the list. (yippee!)

A Very Sweet couple of hours.

Day 7 -Satisfying Curiosity..

Today is the last day of my holiday, and with the chores piling up and time running out, I decided today to take a brief meander to look at some rocks that form my view when I'm washing up.

Now the area known as Creigiau'r Cadeirydd, or Chairman's rocks, has long been known as a bit of an explorer's dead end, complying to Craine's 1st law they are nothing like they look from the village.
I started at James' Wall and quested up in the general direction of Chairman's, and discovered these cool things:

A yellow and black horsefly thing, that sang whilst resting on a rock.

A flooded vertical mineshaft that looked like an evil well, in the back of a carved gorge.

A very pretty holly tree, lots for the treehuggers up here.

A passable hvs/E1 ish project. Abet 25ft high.

A couple of boulder problem's just of the Llanberis path

That my camera had no batteries in it.

My Wife and Son, out for a walk.

Life is alright a lot of the time.

Day 6 -Marital bliss

Finally got to climb with my better half today, its only taken 6 days...

The truth of the matter is its been 10 months since the mighty Logan burst onto the scene and I'm sure it was a few more before that Sam and I last got roped together for some climbing. It wasn't until the afternoon that we were able to part with the boy (who was gardening at Nain and Taid's) and headed up the Mot. It took a while get back in the old rhythm, bickering over the guidebook and the like. However, we jumped on Lorraine Direct and were soon giggling like naughty school kids huddled at the base of Trauma, which we had reached in a one 60m pitch.

Continuing my non avoidance of the classics, we finished with the Crack's mantle (cracking!) before abbing down the gully on our single 60m rope, plopping off the end safely on rope stretch.

Highly reccomended as a quick couple-time adventure.

Day 5 -We went climbing!

With ropes and everything!

My partner for the day was none other then Rab Carrington President of the BMC, which kind of makes him my boss (I volunteer as Area Youth Coordinator for North Wales) and I was under strict instructions that no Adventure would be involved (I appear to have a reputation), so we went to Tremadog; land of bomber gear, and eternal sunshine. Much fun was had, we warmed up with the Plum in a one pitch, followed by my first outing on Vector buttress proper. I've been putting this off due to not wanting to fall off and look a ninny. However months of inactivity merely psyched me up to get blooming well on with it.

Vector is a classic. You all now that, I on the other hand with my predilections for the unordinary, distrust of superlatives, and phobia of polish did not. In a fit of bravado I elected to string the first two pitches together, This combined with choosing to leave the guide in the car, Rab's decision to climb with a slimmed down rack of 10 quickdraws and three crabs of doodads (stopped unnecessary dallying) all made for an unforgettable experience (I didn't cheat or fall off either!).

Tea and cake was called for, to be followed by a quick nip to Pant Ifan for Rab to scoot us up Falcon. I'm really grateful to Rab for a great day.

The eagle eyed amongst you will have noted that the Days of adventure no longer align with the dates. Wednesday was a no adventure day, due to Logan being out of sorts and making babysitting somewhat more tiring than usual. I did get out for a boulder in the evening, but I've been reliably informed that doing the Edge Problem from a crouching start doesn't count as a real adventure.

Day 4 -And the Rain came down...

So I went Snorkeling!

This is Mancer lake in Llanberis, home to such delights as Clippopotomus, and Mancer Direct. As I still had a wetsuit and the weather was really Damp, This seemed like a suitably cavalier way to pass an afternoon. It also gave me an excuse to dig out my flippers, which haven't been used since my honeymoon.

The lake is pretty well equipped with a tunnel to kit up in (it even has a coat hook) and this promontory to enter off. I wasn't quite prepared for quite how deep this puppy is, the waters pretty clear but there's no way to see the bottom. Furthermore the shallows, where they occur, are covered in fluffy algae. This should be repulsive, but bobbing along face down, snorkeling above, it seemed more like a tropical sponge garden. This underwater world was populated by zillions of three spined sticklebacks. I'm fairly sure I saw no other species, (maybe one small broader fish) but no biggies. Certainly nothing like the behemoths a friend saw looming in the depths whilst pootling along the quarry rim one summer...

It was with these beasties in mind that I made my first launch out over the depths, heading for the base of Mancer Direct. I'd spotted some potential deep water soloing here, unfortunately from the water I could see the wall had many vertically aligned razors that would punish a failure unduly.

Much more positive was a scramble round the bay to the left of Mancer. Truly there are some great potential lines here; some are good to go trad lines, others need a declutter. There's even some lines that could value the odd bolt... go see for your self.

Tommorow holds more babysitting, maybe I'll go for some extreme pram action?

Day 3 -Adventures in Babysitting

Today I was in charge of the mini me, and coincidentally the clag and grot descended on our happy valley. hey ho, no room for big adventures.. However once Logan refused lunch, and was clearly suffering from cabin fever, I launched into the assembly of his baby carrier.

This contraption is multi strapped and dangly but come with various rain beaters, so once strapped and dangled on my back. We set off on our mission.

One of our agents (Agent 'M') had informmed us of a big boulder up the hillside above the house, and I preceded to get lost in an uphill direction trying to find it.

Much bog insued.

However it really did exist. A quartz marble, 10ft in diameter, all erratic in the middle of a field. Logan touched it first so he gets first dibs, but no doubt Agent 'G' and the Boulder of the Month Beckons.

... Maybe 7 days of adventure was a bit optomistic.

Day 2 -Another tick on the list

The list in question is one I compiled a few months ago to fuel my new found love of jamming.
This list is made up of boulder problems in North Wales that are primarily composed of holes to wedge your limbs in. Somewhere along the line this became the Fist List...
Joining the likes of Browns Crack, Running Jam, Happy Feet, Quack Crack, and err January's Boulder of the Month is todays trophy...

Teyrn Roof Crack. V4
The days been mainly family stuff so an evening jaunt to pen y pass was required, where I got to road test my wellies on the way down to Cwm Dyli (they passed, although thicker socks are required). Teyrn, is pronounced as one long slurred syllable, rather like the beginning of 'Murder' as spoken by Tagart fans. The Crack is 45 degrees overhanging or so and hands to off fists. It took an hour of flinging myself onto my carry mat to solve the conundrum, as I was lacking a little flexibility and cursing my tiny fists, but my grin was fixed and slightly manic all the way home, up the hill, through bogs..

Left on the list:
Wire brush crack V5
George's Crack V5
Dangleberries V4
Jellybowl Crack V6

Feel free to suggest more..

Day One - 7 days of Adventure!

Its finally, arrived, My first week off work where I'm not running kids climbing competitions or moving house!

Its my intention to get an adventure in Every day, even if it has to be snatched from between the jaws of day to day chores..

Day One

Coasteering round Craig y Llam, near Nefyn. This was brought about via a train journey and a chance meeting with Martin Crook. He had mentioned a chimney in the vicinity of Fantan B, that might be worth a look. I decided to take in the whole headland, Starting on the Nefyn side.

I managed to stay dry the whole of the first gap, Making fine use of limpets and barnacles for holds. Many a flared groove gave way to a limpet mono, and I often forsake crimps for a barnacle sloper.

Eventually, the swimming started. Now as a exponent of the doggy paddle, this was a little alarming

Its not the getting in, or the vauge flailing in the general direction whilst waves do their best to send you in the other direction, It the trying to get out that provided the most dread. Rebounding waves not only snatch holds away, but can be an arse if your trying to catch a breath. Mantleshelving became the skill of the day, along with getting your body in exactly the right shape to stick to the available holds. A bit like one of those sticky toys you throw at windows.

Anyhoo, apart from killer waves, menacing seals, and the excreta of a million seabirds, It was quite a fun trip, Even found the chimneys! Saving for later tho I think.

Give away Project of the Month -July

It is my intention to provide the infrequent visitors to this blog a freebie, in the form of some virgin rock. Sometimes a boulder, sometimes something slightly larger, mostly stuff too hard, or far away for me..

This overhanging edifice is up in Cwm Ffynnon, the sharp eyed viewers amongst you will have spotted the bouldering mat below to gain scale, the notch in its snout is the termination of a slopey ramp that feeds in from the other side. All in all, its a biggy and the TR is more like a bridge swing. GR SH645570.

Miles of bog per cool find...

It Seems to be a ratio of about 20 miles per boulder problem, and loads more for new routes. Quarry foraging is a lot easier..
Oh well, this little beauty is Quack Crack, a V4, 45 degree overhanging 20ft hand crack, with about 5 extra footholds besides the crack. Its out in the wilds of Dyffryn Mymbyr.

A quick wander...

Having chosen to dive into the random world of blog, I thought I'd better start as I mean to go on and describe the last outing. Nowt special, was able to exit work early, and as I wasn't due to recapture my 9 month son for a few hours, I decided to quest out to the top of cwm glas bach, to examine that elusive breed; undescribed cracks!

Having entered fatherhood, my interests have moved away from tottering slate rubble epics and onto that safer alternative, offwidth cracks. So off I set to scope out "fear of infection" and the many cracks surrounding it that didn't fit the guide.

First obstacle was crossing the stream, as the levels were up and the bridge in bits and full of diggers. A wobbly tree below Craig Du deposited me safely over and a scramble past Craig cwm glas bach led me past slime, sheep-goats (they get very friendly up here), moss and billberries (yum yum). This lead to somewhere (not quite sure) and then some slithering down gullies, tree trunks, vertical bogs and wobbly rocks, lead to the "fear". Looks cool, and not to seepage troubled, unlike the approach, which as my decent, included more dampness, some rock fall, an abandoned croc(not mine- lacking hippyfeet), and some "maybe" projects... Watch this space.