New Shoes, Old Memories

Saturday I got out climbing with Wolf, the joys of August meaning

- It was my birthday at some point, so I was allowed more climbing time

- The aforementioned birthday meant I had some new rock shoes to christen

- It was August, so only Tremadog was dry.

Weeks of not doing much outside, and my wide week making me feel so out of shape I decided to give myself a slap and we stormed off to Zukator buttress to try the Zukator-Grasper connection. I don't know if it was the new boots or just the fatherhood drive kicking in, but I hadn't led E3 at Tremadog before, in fact my only clean E2 was Vector. However, I thought I should stop ducking and diving and take it on the chin.

It was similar on my first grit E3, Smear test at the roaches. Success came when I stopped mucking about and accepted the fall. I seriously thought it was too hard, but my mate had a camera, so I committed to the possibility of airtime and just flipping did it. No fall. In the bag. Done.

History had found me on the Zukator-Grasper connection before. Back in 2004, I was out with a couple I knew, the lad was pretty handy and he led the 1st Zukator pitch. I remember thinking this was quite hard and quite bold, I opted to lead the Grasper 2nd pitch and subsequently fell off. All in all I was Quite knackered, and My intimidation by Tremadog extremes was untarnished. On the way home the couple had an almighty barney and I was Left in the car With the Young lady... The Gentleman off to solo at the cromlech. I took her to the quarries for a route to distract her, and Promptly cratered and got airlifted off.

So Yes this route seemed a good place to get some grit and take on some character.

It went okay actually, starting proper technical, but with gear. Then followed some burl, less gear, then a rest. Gear.

The hard bits above made me think. As did the lack of gear.

Back to the Smear Test. Accepting what you can't change, accepting the consequences of your own actions. Take the step and move.

I didn't remember much of the actual climbing from before, and now its still a mash of hold positions and tight focus on gear slots. But I succeeded. My First Tremadog E3 pitch. I didn't fall off seconding the Grasper pitch either.

Thought it wise to skip the quarries afterward tho'

Day 5 -We went climbing!

With ropes and everything!

My partner for the day was none other then Rab Carrington President of the BMC, which kind of makes him my boss (I volunteer as Area Youth Coordinator for North Wales) and I was under strict instructions that no Adventure would be involved (I appear to have a reputation), so we went to Tremadog; land of bomber gear, and eternal sunshine. Much fun was had, we warmed up with the Plum in a one pitch, followed by my first outing on Vector buttress proper. I've been putting this off due to not wanting to fall off and look a ninny. However months of inactivity merely psyched me up to get blooming well on with it.

Vector is a classic. You all now that, I on the other hand with my predilections for the unordinary, distrust of superlatives, and phobia of polish did not. In a fit of bravado I elected to string the first two pitches together, This combined with choosing to leave the guide in the car, Rab's decision to climb with a slimmed down rack of 10 quickdraws and three crabs of doodads (stopped unnecessary dallying) all made for an unforgettable experience (I didn't cheat or fall off either!).

Tea and cake was called for, to be followed by a quick nip to Pant Ifan for Rab to scoot us up Falcon. I'm really grateful to Rab for a great day.

The eagle eyed amongst you will have noted that the Days of adventure no longer align with the dates. Wednesday was a no adventure day, due to Logan being out of sorts and making babysitting somewhat more tiring than usual. I did get out for a boulder in the evening, but I've been reliably informed that doing the Edge Problem from a crouching start doesn't count as a real adventure.