Approaching Official Operating Speed

June was a good month, so good in fact, its had to wait until July to Blog about it. Not only that, but I considered delaying further to include shenanigans scheduled for the end of the week.. However, that will have to wait.

Following May's deep recon, and the investigation of Craig y Ecs, I was left a bit frustrated. This was due to events left out of the annals of last month, at the fore mentioned Ecs. Following our great successes on the highball blocs, we went down to a steep boulder near the bottom of the slope. Here I stitched together something rather hard. We were against the clock as we had to punch in at work, and as the last grains of sand were trickling down, I did it! If you could ignore the mighty dab that is...

Crestfallen and with work calling, I had to leave my prize undefended, until the next window of opportunity. What if SteMac caught wind of it?

Fortunately, two weeks later I was able to stomp up and find it still pristine. Following a short pilates warm up and some crimp wrestling I dove in:

The result was "Dutch Trance" named after a Ballboy track that was earworming me at the time. The above vid is split as I tacked on a repeat of the top section for you to see as it isn't all over after the crux.

Particularly memorable was the point mid crux that all pinkies bar one popped off the gaston and I had to dig deep and power through the crux off a mono. Even without this poor beta, its probably F7A.

Good fight that.

Craig yr Ecs continues to provide sport, hence its cheesy nom-de-plume, Here's a highball F5 called Billy crack (another Ballboy Track)

Not content with this honeypot of hits, more recon ensued

Here's Y Fedw, Tremadog's answer to the Lleyn:

Heres a steep highballish lump of it..

Proper dolerite on the hills behind, but a bit small and grubby

More ventures around the borders of Craig y Ecs

Following a lot of extreme walking, Fathers day occurred and Ethan took me to visit an old nemesis, namely the Tosheroon. I hadn't been here for a couple of years due to fear and flaccidity. I couldn't quite remember what made this project so special. However, it had been the wallpaper for my phone for at least five years, and Ethan (who has caught the climbing bug despite my poor parenting) had decided as it was the one that has evaded me the longest that A) it must be hard, and therefore he should beat me to it, and B) as it was Fathers day and everybody else was on their tablets we should go. I should state at this point it had nothing to do with the tides being perfect and my climbing partner having to let me down due to latent zombie-ism.

Ethan Almost giving the secret location away...

The pebble level felt about a foot higher than my 2015 visit, This made it feel almost welcoming. We ventured further in , and fount the pebbles didn't ramp up too much, in fact the starting point (a Chckstone 40ft into the depths) still had the same small boulder below.

The crux section I've yet to breach

The jams through the crux are always wet and therefore dependant on what little constrictions you can find amongst the flareness.

I remembered why It ensnared me so, the technicality and novel nature of the climbing. If offwidth climbing involves Scarpelli's "Intelligent Brutality" Then imagine a wet one covered in crumbly barnacles!

I asked Ethan he minded loitering while I had a quick go , and he offered to be cameraman (good lad).

Heres a little video which may explain why this project is ace:

I left without the tick, but I reached my previous highpoint. I was impressed that I reached this point without entering the Heart of Darkness like last time. I'm certainly not fitter, so I can only put it down to the last 3 years of pilates giving me a more efficient core and lower body for extended knee barring

The sum total of my owies.

This month has definitely seen a return to form for myself in terms of simply being me. I'm getting out, climbing random stuff with some respectable difficulty, and also this month I've seen some of my giveaways bearing fruit. I'd nagged Dan McManus about Nant Gwrtheyrn's DWS potential and Finally he must have got fed up because he dragged Pete Robins along and they bagged it all.

7a ish

another 7a ish

This ones apparently 7b+. However, the last DWS Dan put up at this grade (well he originally said 7b) was White Lightning at Rhoscolyn, and I remember seeing Caff fall off that. The Picture is of Pete in his underpants. He fell off snapping a foothold shortly afterward.

Part of this return to form is having a surplus of projects. So here's one at Clogwyn Melyn, 10 minutes above the Watkin Path, 15 minutes from Caffi Gwynant's fine cakes.

There's a couple of scrappy bluffs which the Crook may have beaten you to, but there's one or two boulders too.

Tuck in. 

As I looked out towards Moel Meirch I am content Knowing...

There is Treasure Everywhere

The To-Do List

Happy New Year and all that.
This post is a way of collecting all last years Open Projects in one place,  throwing a couple of other aims, and putting some strategy in place. At the end of each month I'll report back, reflect and mentally kick my own arse into gear.

Here's the list, in some order of personal excitement.

Tick 1 -The Joe Brown Project
Location: Twll Mawr
Requirements: Dry rock, Determination, Courage, and possibly a Rope Gun.
The Sketch: Wait until spring and coerce the Keen Calum.

Tick 2 - Neverfall
Location: Neverneverland
Requirements: About 6 pads, some spotters, some courage, some skin
The Sketch: Warm up at Suncharm ledge, take some abb kit if some of the holds are too loose/sharp

Tick 3 - Nant Gwrtheyrn Bloc and DWS
Location: Nant Gwrtheyrn
Requirements: Summer! the bloc needs low tide and better hip flexibility for the last line, the DWS requires courage, and a few changes of kit.
The Sketch: Wait until Summer, and assemble a team of like minded souls.

Tick 4 - The Super Prow
Location: Cwmffynnon
Requirements: Top rope kit, a brush, an increase of personal ability
The Sketch: I'm not looking for a personal ascent off top rope, although I'd been keen to assess the feasibility for others, but I want to get the direct and make good links on the true line, we'll give the visit a whole day (get the bus or a lift?) and take pads for satellite boulders.

Tick 5 - The Tosheroon
Location: Benllech
Requirements: old tough jacket, stout socks and lots of tape, 2 mats for the top out, warm conditions for barnacle wrangling. a Low tide below 1.5-2m.
The Sketch: Wait until spring then get Ben psyched again.

Tick 6 - Porth Howel
Location: Llithfaen
Requirements: A few mats, some company, some dry weather for some of the walls
The Sketch: Just keen to re-visit with a crowd, if I get a bit better (as planned) the low traverse may go, also have a cool trad project to try which requires a low tide.

Tick 7 - The Cube
Location: Dyffryn Mymbyr
Requirements: about 6 mats and a couple of spotters, a bit more ability
The Sketch: There are 2 lines left to do, and they are both above the most complicated landing; the Backside arete (left arete of Manly Groove, right arete of the Cube, climbed on its left side) and Gleaming the cube - the direct through the steepness and up the slab. The arete is totally possible now given suitable fall management, the direct is proper boss, and will require steelier fingers.

Tick 8 - Marchlyn Grit
Location: Marchlyn Mawr reservoir
Requirements: Pads and probably a spotter, a low tide(!) for some of the satellite boulders
The Sketch: I really want to climb the central stand, the sit is well beyond me, but some feasibility studies for next year won't hurt

Tick 9 - Trixibelle
Location: Dyffryn Mymbyr
Requirements: Pads, a belayed spotter for the moves after the crux dyno, a hike up in ability.
The Sketch: Start with some solo visits, take some abb kit for cleaning and feasibility studies, when happy return with a crew.

Tick 10 - The Old Pier Prow
Location: Trefor
Requirements: Low tide, possibly spring tide to get a better pebble level, healthy elbows, dry windy (warm?) conditions. A rise in ability.
The Sketch: I need to be sleek and steely, and I'm not sure when the best conditions would be. Access is quick though so maybe a series of test visits once I've beaten myself into shape.

Tick 11 - Caedafydd Boulders
Location: Nantmor
Requirements: Many pads, a good spotter / patio team.
The Sketch: I'm not putting myself forward for the Koyamada roof, but I have a little line in a backwater to deal with. The main thing is to get some psyche and buzz going for the place. a visit will be made at some point with a enthusiastic crew.

Tick 12 - James' Boulder
Location: Cwm y Glo
Requirements: Myself in peak form
The Sketch: get myself in peak form and do it!

Tick 13 - The Whale of Galedffrwd
Location: Mynydd Llandegai
Requirements: A bit of dry weather to lower the stream, a spotter, some good sloper conditions
The Sketch: This might be an Autumn project.

Tick 14 - Craig Bach Cwm Uchaf
Location: Cwm Uchaf, Llanberis Pass
Requirements: A bit vague this one as its just something I spotted from afar, but it certainly looks intriguing...
The Sketch: A walk with Abb kit, possibly coincide with a look at this.


So there it is, a full list for one year, but with lesser pressure targets such as more obscure spots, and possibly some classics at Tremadog, and Gogarth (do my first Big G route...) to fill the gaps I expect to be happily occupied in 2015.

Have a good one!

Aims for 2015

Hee hee I just wanted that to pop up on UKB...

Anyhoo, This year has been one of trying to be normal, then tentatively getting back in the saddle of the new. Twelve open projects, well... Opened, and new routes in Twll Mawr.
Next year is simply the logical continuation. Complete the projects to a level of personal satisfaction, and get happy in Twll Mawr.

Today I got out for a visit to Open Project June:

Unfortunately I chose to ignore my advice about walking along the inside of the wall, as the path outside looked so easy and flat. I obviously forgot about the bottomless blubbery bogs....
(socks, trousers and wellies drying in the sun, went above knee but not as far as groin..)


Time was limited so I rigged a rope and cleaned the next toy; the left arete.

I only went and got it 1st go! and enjoyed it enough to repeat it for the cameras:

Frontside Arete F6C! (thinking the cube needs a sk8 theme...)

 

So as well as The Cube, Tosheroon, Neverfall, and of course the SuperProw are in my sights..

Roll on 2015!

Open Project of the Month - September

This month, following a tip off from a certain stout naped gentleman, I took my first of hopefully many visits to Nant Gwrtheyrn. This former quarrying village was subsequently abandoned and recently restored to form a unique heritage center and school for those Dysgu Cymraeg. The valley it which it resides is very steep and secluded and reminded me more of the French Alps than Wales.

Looking down from the car park to the cafe, and Fantan B beyond. Being a popular stop for walkers and the retired, I got some funny looks stomping through with two pads.... There is a winding path beyond, that gains the beach 50 meters below (that's elevation folks not distance, long winding path...) 

Upon arrival this is the view to the left; Craig y Llam and Fantan B, this might make an alternative approach, and I'm keen to explore Penrhyn Glas quarry next time.

To the right Avernus, and our goal; a little cluster of boulders at the beaches end. 

Yes its a walk (I'll only take one decent pad next time, rather than a stack) but the beach is serene and Groovy (certainly on this sunny day) and I shared its entire length with about 5 people. Although there is many sizable blocks here only one gave worthwhile value: 

Other blocks were okay to warm up on, but were either too easy or a bit loose. This puppy, however was worth the 2 hour wait for the tide to recede (I had a good book)

First I tackled the nose, which took a while as the Grandolorite offers good holds at awkward angles, and perfectly positioned poor ones. The result was Moli Mawr, SDS off a side pull and a nubbin (a&b), maybe F6B. the undercut prow meant that heel hook maneuvers were the order of the day, I explored the slab on the right with a couple of standing variations before setting down to try the sitters.

The obvious slanting crimps c&d required a heel rockover outside my current flexibility and are the open project for this month, as its the line of the bloc.

I did make it up Two Bites of Cherry off of d & e (a flatty hidden under neath) at about F6C

 The Cellar bloc might be of interest to some as it give steep 2-3 move eliminates with lots of poor and hard to grasp holds to choose from. (I failed to top on any of them)

Also of significant interest is the peninsular jutting out into the sea, I explored it at high tide, but the initial section would give some boulder potential, and the remained would provide some  fine sea level japes ( I was not prepared with cozzie)..

All in all, this is a really tidy spot, good for families that don't mind the odd slog, and Dads who don't want to just sit around, swimming looks good too.

I stopped to photograph this cliff on the steep hair pinned drive out, after my shenanigans in Twll Mawr last week they look really appealing (and Big), incidentally Calum returned yesterday and straightened the Antiquarian with a direct! Bon Effort, and makes me keen forth crack system to the right.

Oh and if you visit in the next few days, I left my sunnies on a boulder above the high tide mark

Enjoy

Open Project of the Month - August

Send-Tember is around the corner, and I'm starting to line up some time to tackle these open projects. All my kids will be attending school full time for the first time, so when I'm not at work I'll have a whole 5 hours and 45 minutes to pursue the dream.
Super prow and the Neverfall project are obviously high on the list, with hopefully some repeat visits. I'm still lacking mileage, but I'm hoping to nail the Tosheroon too.
Mainly though, due to convenience, available quality existing problems, and personal love, I think I'm going to be hiking up to Dyffryn Mymbyr...

Thus this months Open Project is the biggest plum I've found up there so far: Giveaway April '13

So the First proper trying session was a bit rushed, due to child care duties, but at least I identified some viable holds and had a quick play.
The lowest arrows are your starting holds; a sloper and a crimp. these are reached from a sitter with feet cammed in the block. What follows is a lot of clever foot work that, combined with some slapping brings you to a compression like stance at the end of the main slopey rail.
This sequence eluded me on that visit, probably not helped by my fitness levels. The next move, however is likely to be the crux. A massive dyno to the next arrow (well, the chalk to the right of it..) BOOM.
I'm psyched to work it upto this point, especially as upto this hold, the landing is conventional enough. The next section is a little close to the end of the flat, and the hill slopes away rather severely. All within a highball range, but some rafting of mats and tethering of spotters will be required. I have a whimsical notion of binding a taco mat into a D shape at the base of the raft to make a "catcher" platform to pile more mats on....
However I'll try to latch the dyno before resorting to mad science.

As for project names, I'm considering Trixibelle.

Enjoy

Open Project of the Month - April

Passion versus Obsession. Two sides of the same hill, one side full of positivity, then go too far and you're over the brow and into the slough of despond. I seem to spend a lot of time teetering on the top of this hill, and it has happened again with the latest big discovery.

This is the chappy I discovered on my last (February) visit to Shale City. And very happy it made me too. Its solid and big (2m wide at the nose) and has lots on unhelpful slopey directional holds.

I returned with mats 2 months later during a neep tide and found this:

The pebble level had risen 1-2 feet, so the appealing huggable prow was off limits, and the arrival of spring had raised the algal growth. With a little trial and error I found that the rock cleaned up with some ragging ( a flannel, but next time a towel, more clean bits to use) followed by chalking and brushing off. With limited warm ups I found it slow to get going, but slowly pieced some links between holds and established some finishing points:

G was a highball finish and K was the lowball. I did a traverse from pockets C&D to K via F, and managed a lower start from B and D. I also went C&D up to G, E&H to F, J&I to K, and spent a while trying to link into this from the crack underneath (in Vid) via the cool pocket M.
This last project would be worthwhile regardless of pebble height, and if the pebble height lowers to previous levels then the A&B start can be used for the high traverse. The keel might be possible from the L hold by the strong, and with lower pebbles the talented may link the keel from A&B.

I've done enough obsession, but I'm passionate that someone should make something of this. I will still return at  some point, preferably the end of spring tide cycle to see if the pebbles levels lower, but I'll want a spotter and less creaky elbows.
Don't try to solo out the back as the last 2 feet is shale cities finest.

Now for the location; Park at Trefor Beach and walk past the pier to the headland. Scramble down to the remains of the old pier and its found in the second cove. Its accessible about 1.5 hours either side of low tide. Here's a Pic.

Enjoy.

Open Project of the Month - March

As the last post stated, I've been trying too hard and flared up my elbows, April is promising a few bits of cool climbing, so I'm reining it in a bit for the moment, and here's the project(s) that are a bit too hard for me, although I may return once you've done them (Or before if you're tardy).

So James at work found a new boulder on Clegir, somewhere I thought I knew intimately. Intrigued I waited until he'd done what he wanted to do, and them swooped in for the crumbs.

A Very Cool boulder for Clegir as it happens, Although the landing was a bit poor. Some patioing was required...

This was the result

The Mats give scale..

So the established problems are as follows:

James' Sit Down F6B+ on the left of the pic, from the chalked slot to the top. (FA James Lloyd)

The Filling F6C From the right pillar, sort of following the slopey ramp via the tooth into the central rail and mantel out. Airy. (FA me)

The Projects up for grabs:

The Central crouching start. Its off the pinch and slopey crimp on the lowest rail, snatching through into the finish of The Filling. I had a good go at this and did all the moves, but the initial snatch was just too low percentage for me at the moment. Felt about F7B

James' Sit Down into the finish of The Filling via the slopey rail. Its a powerful sideways throw off a fingerlock in a sharp V slot (something I avoid on the original problem) to gain the pinch, and up into the previous project. Somewhat harder.

Ahh yes. to find the boulder park as for pig pen.Don wellies, and walk towards Llanberis a bit, until opposite the Beran road, quest down until you hit a wall and then follow it rightwards. the boulder is on the edge of the woods, just below a gate into the woods.

Enjoy

Open Project of the Month - February

Yes its early in the month, and yes a slight change in post title (to reflect this years challenge etc..) But I'm quite excited about this one.

In an Earlier post I alluded to a former Giveaway of the month . Having calculated that a low tide of under 2m was required, plans were made for the end of January, and a small team assembled. Despite the best planning, we arrived to torrential rain, which ceased 4 songs later to release us from the epic mobile into a drenched Benllech. As ever my optimism drove me to drag the pad down and we settled down for a soggy session. Dim ots, as the say as due to its extreme tidal nature its always sopping anyway, and part of the fun.

The problem starts 30-40ft back in the cave at an obvious chockstone. The Nature of the challenge meant that no chalk was taken (too wet) and tape gloves and an old jacket were deployed (barnacles)..

Myself golem-like and wedged in the niche directly after the chock stone, and pulling round the 1st bulge.

Ben Egypto-Barring and myself beginning to Bez slightly.

Eventually through tiredness and lack of 3D processing we both got to this point and plopped off to sterilise our wounds...

The Jaws required more victims so come and play! The cave is just around the corner from hidden wall, and is easily accessed by those who can use Googlemaps...

The Rules

Start at the chockstone, don't touch the ground until at the top of the crag.

No chalk, use adequate protection against barnacles.

We will be going back in warmer weather so we are more aware of the damage we are doing to ourselves, so why not get in contact, and come along for a team effort.

Photos by Charlotte who refused to play that day...

Open Project - first visit to Neverneverfall

Got a dry moment yesterday to reacquaint myself with this, as its been a few years since took it seriously. First impressions were Noooooooooo! as it looked death.

The Slab looked like this

No real grips, futuristic like I thought, and a bit high, very high, too high? well its an open project so maybe not for someone. Also, as the slope leading in is quite steep, there was lots of patio material. I set to work  on the ground works, as this is the fun bit, none of that updown updown struggle for me.. Just giggling as I destabilized the slope and rained boulders down into the pit, proper juvenile adventure.

A Before Piccy

And Afterwards

Still lots to do but come and have  a trundle as its good fun, if a little "exciting"

Next mission is to make it possible to top out...

Fortunately there is a bomber belay

Then its clean the wall and play...

I understand that the previous post was a little vague on the location. Its below the tourist path in the back of the cereal bowl (lower tier). I'll take a better piccy next time.

Enjoy