Dark Autumn

 Well it rained a lot. And the family got Covid (all except me bizarrely)

To be Frank, my motivation took a bit of a nose dive, I went back to Porth Howel, which was nice..

The autumn storms had brought winter pebble levels. I was pleased to confirm that it didn't really make Barcode Punk easier, and I got to repeat What a Difference a Wave Makes, which again was nice.

I also followed up a hunch and checked the prow project at the old Trefor pier.

So the big prow project is back on... There is a niggle in the back of my brain, and at this point I think the seeds of discontent were sewn. 

I'll explain. 

I've had a great year. Properly Stonking. The motivational boost provided by the new bouldering guide has meant that I've ticked a humongous amount of long term projects this year. 

The shard

George's crack

The Tosheroon 

Barcode Punk... 

But there is still so much to do, and the wave of success has to reach the beach at some point. Fear of Failure has been a long-term foe, one I have repeatedly defeated only for it to jet off like The Claw. 

Throw in some external stress, and it's quickly becoming a bit black. 

Feeling burnt out is OK, feeling incapable and vulnerable is OK. Withdrawing a bit is not bad... But I'll be damned if I relinquish control.

So to try and break this low patch I went back to exploring. 

A bit of Google Swooping* found me a wood with a cliff in it and an adjacent public footpath.

*flying round Google Earth with help from Geograph.Org.Uk

Path was closed due to an exciting bridge (well I enjoyed it).

Turns out the interesting path wasn't exactly public.. 

Proper mushroom circle 

Slightly too small boulder. 

There was a massive and inaccessible cliff in the wood, but by that point I'd had enough, and diverted myself along a contour to check out a dark roof in a cwm. 

English Sheepdog Sheep! 

Turned out to be a slatey hole.. 

All in all a tad disappointing. I was lucky enough to get an actually sunny day, but with little psyche I diverted to more Google Swooping and a hunt for Tone's Golden Boulder. I found it, was underwhelmed, and quested on to see these reprobates:

Not rubbish, but not enough to pull me out of my slump. 

Driven by a unhelpful desire to add to the forthcoming Nwb3.2 idid a last bit of Google Swooping and decided to check out Carreg Lefain. I'd seen on ukc that the parking described in the Llyn guide was no longer welcomed by the land owner. Fortunately, the excellent work on the Mynydd Nefyn footpath network had meant easy access via a carpark just south of the crag. 

The crag itself looked ace, almost tempting me to dust off my rack and revisit in the Spring ;

Slight digital photobomb.. A couple of boulder bits at the bottom, but no pot of gold. 

In nearby mynydd nefyn quarry I found a cool looking crack.. 

And a too small but perfectly formed microgranite boulder. 

So yet another disappointing ramble, at this point I swore off further Llyn exploration.. 

(though I might come back for Gwylwyr quarry). 

What finally snapped me out of the doldrums was an indoor climbing session with my wife. I hadn't lead climbed apart for when I was setting for months, and it was fun just trying stuff and getting pumped.

It's OK to fail if you're having fun.

Find your own fun, this may not be the same as other people's fun. 

That's OK too (within the usual societal boundaries ofc). 

Thus I found myself going to an old venue, in an unfashionable out of the way spot. I'd told myself that I'd try some of the easy stuff I'd scoped out. However, I soon got sucked into old projects. 

So I'm now looking forward to trying, Failing and maybe succeeding on random things that I find fun. I'm putting aside tick lists for a bit (save some for next year). 

I hope the rest of the winter will be a bit drier, but I won't base my happiness on it. 

Finally I probably wouldn't have exited this wallow quite so speedily without the support and heckling of my wife and kids, and the shadowy network of professional banter merchants known as the Pebble Helms (cheers lads). 

Keep me posted on any virgin offwidth sightings.. 

I'll try not to leave it so long between blogs, but there's always the Instagram.

Forward Always 

The Lockdown Diaries - I've got 99 projects..

And I can't climb one.
That has been the situation in sunny Wales. I made a moral choice to respect the BMC's request that we pause climbing for now. This was due to feeling a bit unjust when there was the masses who couldn't walk to their boulders, and not wanting to make the BMC's position harder.

Can't touch this 

Well actually I think climbers being climbers, especially in the North Wales scene, I think they have. To be honest I can't blame them. Lowball esoteric lumps barely gazed at by man abound in this area, my blog is littered with them. Judging by the viewing stats, it appears that people have cottoned on to this too. So with my backwater projects preyed on by bloc hungry freedom fighter's what's a man to do? 

I started with what I was allowed to do. I noticed that the national park had moved their no play zone back south to Nant Peris. This meant I could wander from my house to the mysteries of Fronllwyd. 

And have a gander into Penrhyn

Even gaze into the Carneddau (which has always remained open, lucky Bethesdarites) 

The road ahead is uneven and frustrating. Tonight our prime minister has allowed Englanders to drive to their "unlimited" exercise. This week gone, the BMC's advocated bouldering and top roping as phase 1 appropriate.

The stable door is open to the masses, and keeping my bouldering mat locked away won't save any lives. Obviously I don't want to go anywhere anybody else is (I never do really). Also the science is beginning to indicate that if someone gave my boulder cooties, it wasn't likely to give it to me. Certainly less likely than the trolley at Tescos. 

Controlled and polite rebellion may save minds as well as lives. 

Stay safe. 

Fatneck gets me Climbing!

A certain frequenter of UKBouldering celebrates the close of the 40th year of his life. The weather is kind AND I'm allowed out for the Whole weekend. It was emotional folks...

The keen of eye will identify our location as Porth Ysgo, not been here for a few years as it doesn't usually fit in with my quick mornings adventure while the kids are at school. Its been Two years or so that I ventured down with Mr Panton and crowd. Back then I climbed a few things and tried a few more that I was keen to complete.

This was one of them(being expertly modelled by TomTom). This time I did Foam Party; my first established 7A+. This has made me think I may have created a few sandbags amongst my harder FA's, as it was not the living end. Also at Porth Ysgo I managed Perrin Crack sit, and to fall on my head in front of the president of the BMC. I was trying to demonstrate my only ysgo FA "The Diminutive Fister", my heel-toes slipped, and I torpedoed into the boulders next to my carefully placed mat. Ho hum, Fatneck was wearing my offwidth helmet at the time too....

The next day was a distinctly crowded Talfarach. Although the location choice was mainly due to Fatneck wanting to go fishing (Did you get any lid?). For those not familiar with this site, its the headland east of ysgo with the big boulders with bad landings.

Many Spotters, Plenty Mats, Mike looks away and Shudders...

My plaything for the day, turned out to be "The Black Pearl" 7B, and distinctly feasible if I ever come back here fresh, and with a mat surplus.

Fun was had, skin used, and psyche regained. Hoever, I also got a bit homesick for the missus and sprogs, so didn't climb until totally trashed.

Roll on this years projects!

Tick Report - June

So here we are, half way through the year. This month I have mainly been aspiring. That is I really want to climb stuff, but I am not yet up to scratch. Therefore its been training, reconnoitering, and cogitating.
Georges crack and Big Bari have been my training ground for advanced suffering, such as I would need for Tosheroon. After the first session on Georges, I had set up another date, with partners and every thing. But, then one of my Son's lost the school's dog (a stuffed one) and I had to bail to Pwllhelli Haven to see if they had found it. Returning with all the dogs paraphernalia (but no dog) I stopped in at Shale city to follow up on the point of interest raised while out with my brother.
This ended up with me down here with nothing but my rockboots and a smile...

No obviously this wasn't low tide, or high tide, but somewhere inbetween... 

Here's what it looks like on a pretty damn low tide. on this previous exploration I assumed this was the low tide norm....

The traversing around was fun, and I had hoped to coincide with enough low tide to explore at a wade. However, the water proved to be fairly deep.

The dark slash roof is the one of the first cave

almost shown in this pic...

So the sideways shuffling not only gave crap pics, but didn't give me access to the suspected bouldering... Yes I ended up swimming, but even though my phone claims to be waterproof, I was too chicken to take it with me. What I saw was that the suspected bouldering was another mirage, but this cave system may give some cool DWS, although with it being Shale city, the top out may be a little interesting...

Exciting enough to inspire this Ebay purchase (£28)

First it was the scooter, now a rubber dingy, Is this the normal actions of a 40 year old man? probably..

Talking of being old, or at least feeling it, more progress with the physio this month. Having done my 20 min physio exercise routine twice a day for a fortnight, we discovered that it wasn't really cutting the mustard, so I've been bumped up once more through the NHS ranks to the next level of specialist staff. All I want to do is not be afraid of coughing my back out in the morning.... 

On a plus side, I'm back setting at the wall, and it seems I still enjoy it, and am not damaging myself further. I also can lead 6c+ in a laden Navaho harness unclipping the static on the way, so what training I'm doing is obviously sticking.

Although I think its pinch gripping the towel I use for 5 minutes of hamstring stretches twice a day that's having the real effect.

Following climbing the Baron, I've sort of got disenchanted with dealing with Twll Mawr. There's been a lot of argy bargy, and opinions flying about. I'm hoping that the next BMC Cymru meeting on the 16th of July will be a chance to settle things down. On the plus side Ian Lloyd-Jones has put up an ace looking trad crack pitch on the south side of Twll Mawr; Lost in the Echo. Its a line I've often admired in the past, and would link very nicely into Tales of the Golden Monkey.

The other thing all this stirring of the pot has brought up was a desire to see one last Joe Brown foray turn into a route. So I got out Reeve's magic Abb rope again

And as if by magic, it reached the ground (just) clearly a bit longer than 100m...

Watch this space.

So half way through.

I started with 14 projects, and none of them have been mined out. One however was returned to the dealer for another card. I've had three(ish) successes, and a fair bit of milage, but I'm finding my original psyche for the projects ebbs and flows. Especially with the dues i'm having to pay to get them done, be it ground work, training, battling the tides, or simply being arsed. My windows of opportunity are slimming down, so those more time heavy ticks are slipping somewhat.

I chose to get some science on the list:

...So The List now in order of Personal Psyche

1. Tosheroon

What more could you wan't? pain, suffering, technical difficulty, a narrow tide window and its also quite burly. Got to get Georges crack done first as its a good benchmark (topical) for this sort of suffering, and it isn't tidal.

2. Marchlyn Mawr.

This could be my first proper hard new boulder problem. Training is ongoing, and I'm keen for a social visit to get some extra opinions, and introduce others to the pretty good circuit that's developing

3. Trixibelle

Never thought I'd take this seriously, but it works my weaknesses so well, whats not to like?

4. Nant Gwrtheyrn

Bring on warmer sea temperatures! a proper ready made playground. I've been advised that DWS on your own is a bit stupid, so I'll be recruiting some mates.

5. Trefor DWS

Bit more serious this. However, once I've found a way of barnacle proofing the boat (I'm considering a rubble sack) and I've got some knackered wires and old tat to rig the caves, it could be a right giggle.

6. The Cube.

Boss line, rubbish landing. will need a team, or a proper snow drop.

(Top Six are all Whoop Whoop! what follows are the Hmmmmmm's)

7. Twll Mawr Trad.

One more time..

8. Llugwy Bouldering

Interesting one this, as the walk in make it time heavy, and the ride out is tire heavy. However, there could be a cool little circuit up there..

9. The Super Prow

Extreme top roping with an hour walk in, and a chunk of cleaning required. Again, a Boss line.

10. Skdoosh.

Surprised how I felt about this slight line one James' Boulder. I'm way off the bounce required to visit yet.

11. Porth Howel

Let others hoover it up, however, I'll certainly visit again

12. The Whale.

The Whale abides... will probably get done on a whim.

13. Neverfall

Again surprised how low this came out, but the remaining line are proper hard, and I haven't the time to give to them (surprisingly I'm not that awesome at slabs)

14. Cae Dafydd

Got at least one line I may return to, but having done a bit, and the landings are.... inventive. I think I've done my time on the ground works crew..

So there we go. If I mine out the top 6 ticks I'll be well made up. However, as I have a Daughter arriving mid September, I'll be well made up anyways.

(I haven't bothered back linking the ticks, as you either already know about them, don't care, or need no further encouragement to nick 'em)

Here's to a progressive July.

Tick Report - May

So its been a weird Month....

The Bads
My psyched-for trad project got a dusting of someone else's bolts
My back, or more specifically my pelvis is still killing me periodically
My elbows have flared up at inopportune moments
My Work life has got unhelpfully stressful
I'm Feeling Weak

The Goods
I have some cool boulder projects where I am making progress
My Tribe is going to be joined by my first daughter (4th child)
I'm making progress on my journey towards Development coach
Sam and I had our first mini-break away from the kids in 6 years
I'm getting regular free physio (thanks NHS)
Our house is having a bit of a posh make over.

So there we go.
As a result of all the mess in Twll Mawr, and with Little Miss Dicken due in September, I've sacked off the trad for this year. That's not to say I might have the odd jolly, but I've given away my projects, and will be leaving Twll Mawr alone for a bit. The fact is that with the imminent arrival of Little Miss, I'm bordering on contentment, at least my perspectives have been altered.
I am also trying to get some consensus on ethics for Twll Mawr, and will be raising it at the next BMC Cymru meeting. My views on Twll Mawr, specifically the Back wall, have be documented on this blog many times (eg here and here). I'm aware that the new sport routes have proved popular, and I know pretty much all the ascentionists of the trad routes personally, and could probably get them all into a quite small room. However, the climbing is unique and special, and historically routed in the ethics and mindset of climbing in North Wales.
Currently the Back Wall looks something like this:

Cue the scrappy topo..

The Routes

1 Taith Mawr (2008) Trad

2 Long in the Twll/ the North will rise Again (March 2015) Sport

3 Tân y Ddraig (4^th May 2015) Sport

4 Hamadryad (1971) Trad

5 Desolation of Smaug (April 2014) Sport

6 Antiquarian Direct (September 2014) Trad

7 Twll Love (September 2014) Trad

8 The Baron (1^st May 2015) Trad

9 The Razors Edge (1971) Trad

10 The True Finish (1989) Trad

11 Bushmaster (1982) Trad

12 Scorpion (1981) Trad

A= Retro bolted belay first used for True finish

B = Retro bolted belay first used for Twll Love

When Smaug appeared, I was concerned that it might effect existing routes, and to some extent it did, although not so much as to harm their character. I was also saddened that it removed some of the risk for subsequent new routes, and that it was in an area that was pushed heavily into in a ground up ethic. The result was Antiquarian Direct, and Twll Love.

It must be said, however, that the reduction of risk may have prevented catastrophe on the 2nd pitch of Twll Love (or prevented an awesome display of onsighting and my hardest route to date, we'll never know).

Smaug also opened the bottle. I chatted to the first ascentionist at the time about what it meant for the future, and expressed my opinion that all right of smaug should be left of future trad. At the time I thought this view was shared. When the Long Twll team starting their bolting mission, They sent me many long emails, agonising over how existing trad routes could be avoided, and encouragingly, also how potential trad lines could be given space too. On the whole this worked too.

But the lure of the longest sport route in the UK was obviously too much.

Maybe also the lure of the arete too, many people had tried to get to it via traditional means over the years, with True Finish coming closest.

Enough maudlin mumbling, if all those existing trad line weren't enough to tempt you, here's an unadulterated version to spot the blanks, and the actual lines I scribbled over..

I've deliberately kept these picture files big so you can search around, The lines on the back wall are all strong, but hidden by perspective tricks. This is the best angle I'e found so far to reveal them. There's a strong line on the right that Mr brown got within half a pitch of the top, for instance...

Next Month

Get up something

Stop aching

Stop moaning

Day 5 -We went climbing!

With ropes and everything!

My partner for the day was none other then Rab Carrington President of the BMC, which kind of makes him my boss (I volunteer as Area Youth Coordinator for North Wales) and I was under strict instructions that no Adventure would be involved (I appear to have a reputation), so we went to Tremadog; land of bomber gear, and eternal sunshine. Much fun was had, we warmed up with the Plum in a one pitch, followed by my first outing on Vector buttress proper. I've been putting this off due to not wanting to fall off and look a ninny. However months of inactivity merely psyched me up to get blooming well on with it.

Vector is a classic. You all now that, I on the other hand with my predilections for the unordinary, distrust of superlatives, and phobia of polish did not. In a fit of bravado I elected to string the first two pitches together, This combined with choosing to leave the guide in the car, Rab's decision to climb with a slimmed down rack of 10 quickdraws and three crabs of doodads (stopped unnecessary dallying) all made for an unforgettable experience (I didn't cheat or fall off either!).

Tea and cake was called for, to be followed by a quick nip to Pant Ifan for Rab to scoot us up Falcon. I'm really grateful to Rab for a great day.

The eagle eyed amongst you will have noted that the Days of adventure no longer align with the dates. Wednesday was a no adventure day, due to Logan being out of sorts and making babysitting somewhat more tiring than usual. I did get out for a boulder in the evening, but I've been reliably informed that doing the Edge Problem from a crouching start doesn't count as a real adventure.