The Beast in Chains

So after a few days reflection I realized someone might want to actually repeat it, so I thought I had better include a description:

The Beast in Me - Hard Very Marvelous F7+ 20m

The Offwidth groove system leaving the tunnel of the penultimate belay of Scorpion- Mordor side.
Approach by abseil, climbing Scorpion, or deathly traverse (Twll mawr Side).

Protection is bolts and a Cam#2.

Climb the bolted offwidth groove to the Eagle's nest. Rest, then boulder past the roof to the highboard. Ponder, then tech your way to the summit via a jam or two (cam), some head scratching (bolt) and some welcome jugs (a way above the bolt).

Mark Dicken 24/9/2013


The timid could reduce the run out with a fiddly wire, but they are unlikely to arrive at this point.

The Collected Saga in Posts
http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2010/12/brewing-next-years-psyche.html
http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2011/06/getting-beasted.html
http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2011/06/initial-tickle.html
http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2011/06/block-talk.html
http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2011/09/beast-in-me.html
http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2012/10/back-on-beast.html
http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2012/11/the-beast-is-caged.html
http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/05/brewing-up.html
http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/building-bigger-anvil.html
http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/first-blood.html
http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/twilight-shunt.html
http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/red-point-1-hosey-nil.html
http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/09/september-sessions-day-one.html
http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/09/september-sessions-day-two.html
http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2013/09/september-sessions-day-3-of-3.html

I guess looking back at all the nerding and noodling certain lessons could be learnt:

1) Know yourself and accept yourself. I'm not the lunatic I once was, I don't think I could have ever climbed it trad, and no one would be bothered to repeat it anyway.
2) Accept pain.
3) Refining technique and protecting your skin is a lot more valuable than dangling from a wooden box.
4) Flexibility is great, but technique and craftiness is easier.

I intend to return at some point to see if I can improve my style on the vice section, and I'd like to get some piccies as a memento, so watch this space.

“It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end.” 
― Ernest Hemingway