Suffice to say, Its going to be a rather hard offwidth to conquer. All the usual suspects know I've set it in my sights and, are graciously allowing me a good go (cheers G, Stevie and Tom).
So all I have to do is get strong, get it clean and grind to victory... Think Gin Palace on trad.
As to actually getting strong, I'm in the dilema of time management and having to isolate my busted bits.
There's also the fact that training hurts, at least for offwidths it does...
Currently thinking of serial micro sessions of beasting mini-supersets to failure; something like 3 push ups into 3 pull ups-in-pike and continue until puke.
Might take some refining..
The view off the end of the craft
Once again, Craine's law struck and it turned out to be 10ft high and full of unpleasantness. In the end, just to be out on the hill under cobalt blue skies was reward enough.
South of hidden wall, this 40ft deep cave has a nicely flared horizontal chimney running through its entire roof at head height. The rear of the cave is fairly cramped and non descript, but a couple of yards towards the light a chockstone marks a sensible starting point. From here, jamming, back-and-footing, and general squirming will get you to the light and here...
Barred to the Bone V3
This is inside the Crackhouse. an enclosure of boulders entered via the wide slot on the right of the main picture. It gives enumerable aretes, cracks, and slabs. These are mainly quite eliminate, although still follow strong lines (i.e. following a slab whilst ignoring its aretes etc). The best of these is the stand up Shed Party V4 which takes the central arete. this picture also gives a sense of scale to the boulders
Toebar V4 goes up the front of the prow from the chalked holds near the vertical pod to top out direct. its a sds which utilises toes cammed into the gap between the prow and the block below.
The White line is the amazing Wriggler, a classic E1 on the lofty heights of Cefn Du. Consisting of two contrasting pitches of enjoyable adventure; the first an easy dolerite ledge shuffle, the second is a bold and airy slate slab.
Project RED
A blunt 40ft fontesque arete. The rock is crysaline slate over an ingneous intrusion, solid once clean but not prone to traditional crimps. Can be top roped off the P1 belay of the wriggler.
Project BLUE
A blank expedition up a near vertical baldness, through an overlap into a very thin slab, joining the wriggler at its second bolt. The route could be top roped off this.
So there we go. Both would benefit from / require bolts. Both are mondo hard, but dripping in glory.
Might even clean them for you tommorrow...
53.126267,-4.14051
On a rare excurison to England, Alex the Hoff and I took a jaunt to Brimham Rocks, home to a plethora of lovely wide cracks and this benign E3 in particular. Much fun was had, warming up on Desperation Crack, before seiging Bog Crack, and moving down here for a spot of yoyoing. There was not a little blood loss, Particularly from Lord Bertram, who became enamoured by Charming Crack and fed her small morsels of his own flesh. We then tried to feed the Brutaliser a small maiden, but she got spat out...
All In All, much fun was had, woes and cares were draped on the jaws of these noble beasts, and some small victory was shared.
However, the rock always wins, and we now all ache in fundamental ways. I think We'll be back.. (maybe when the Owl leaves Giggling crack?)
Thanks guys for taking me away!
SunCharm Ledge offers a crisp smooth quarried Dolerite Wall, with 4m of highball fun, and a heathery patch to plonk your pads
Calum M and I went down here on Saturday with a pad each and this 2pads + spotter set up Seemed to work really well
Its a traverse off left to get down, The Suncharmer being from a little higher, as can Rhinoplasty if you want too..
1. Flock of flying Butt Monkey's V1 tackles the flying arete on the left.
2. The Groove of Smooth V3 is the flying groove entered from the left
3. Maurice Chevalier V3 the central arete
4. Observation groove V0- the easy central corner
5. Sunshine Swing V4/5 The impressive right arete taken via left side and rock onto ledge to scamper off rather than top out
6. Rhinoplasty V5/6 the right arete taken head on to finish as for SS
7. The Suncharmer V3 the ltr girdle to the proper highball finish
Just the blank right wall to go..
To Get to Suncharm Ledge:
1.Follow the tourist path from bus stop to Twll Mawr
2. Hop over the right fence, scamper to the hut and look over the edge
3. Take the obvious scramble down to Suncharm ledge.
Back in Gods own Country for this month and another Dyffrym Mymbyr boulder, follow the wire fence up for this one. and bring a team of Spotters as the landing is a bit slopey. (mat for scale)
Did my talk "The Daddy club- How to have an epic and still be back for bathtime" to a small but receptive audience last night, Included this awsome slide that proves there's class bouldering in the quarries. Got to climb with a rope today tho' First time outside since October. I will admit itt made me a bit emotional, must be going soft, but there's a lot to be said for this climbing lark.
Finaly went back to clean this thing with some gear to keep me in. All was going good until I reached a 3m section of Doris. Not for a soon-to-be father of three. Maybe if someone else goes to town with this section It may clean up, but for me I'm off to examine the project list I gave to the aformentioned hippy, to see if there isn't another plum worthy of the name.
