Well as I've just been there and have now done the research, it seems fitting that this months giveaway is on the Red Wall Promontory:
I spent a happy afternoon traversing the base here. Into the light looks really nice and has the appearance of a nice VS... The groove I intended to use as an alternative to jugging the ropes (below the n of Promontory) turns out to be a well protected E4.. Its clear that appearances can be deceptive on the promontory.
There are a few variations of Into the light that probably aren't worth a separate name, but might amuse some on a sunny day, they involve a hand crack in a deep groove and a hanging fin. However, this months giveaway is the entire Righthand Red wall side of the Promontory! A tad generous I grant you, but its almost overhanging enough to DWS and festooned with Jug "like" holds. The rock on the Promontory is good, more Holyhead Mountain than Red Walls, and unlike the slabby side, it has plenty of cracks for gear. I can only imagine the slight inconvenience of access is the reason it remains clear of routes thus far.
Enjoy
These are my meandering musings on Climbing, Adventure, Esoterica, and Rocks of both types; solid and not
Friday, 22 November 2013
Tuesday, 12 November 2013
Hat's out, all out
Hat came out of the box today, Two weeks later than the last year, due to warmth and wetness. Today was sunny and crisp, and I wasn't at work.. HOORAY!!! I was given strict instructions by my lovely wife to go out and have fun, and as luck would have it.. I did.
Messrs Caffity and Cal were having a crack at some hard thing on the red walls promontory, Woo was along as lensman, and I was invited as general chummer company and passenger.
The sun was balmy, the rock solid, the project nails. I enjoyed traversing back and forth along the lower fringes of the promontory, soaking rays and spotting lines (more research needed) as Caff looked for handholds (small) and footholds (poor). There was even some insitu gear (rusty). Cal had a play on top rope and then they thought they'ed let the passenger have a go. Blow me, I even managed to climb some of it....
Anyhoo, Caff then dispatched it with minimal fuss and the long jug back to red walls began, tiring for someone who's only trained for trying hard over a max of 10 meters. The real treat was that Caff pottered up Anarchist in his trainers dragging a rope, and therefore I got to experience red wall for the first time ( I know, I've a lot of non quarry experience to catch up on..) By Light house and sunset, up an amazingly enjoyable, interesting and a little adventurous route.
Yes I need to get out more, and I think I will.
happy place
Messrs Caffity and Cal were having a crack at some hard thing on the red walls promontory, Woo was along as lensman, and I was invited as general chummer company and passenger.
The sun was balmy, the rock solid, the project nails. I enjoyed traversing back and forth along the lower fringes of the promontory, soaking rays and spotting lines (more research needed) as Caff looked for handholds (small) and footholds (poor). There was even some insitu gear (rusty). Cal had a play on top rope and then they thought they'ed let the passenger have a go. Blow me, I even managed to climb some of it....
Anyhoo, Caff then dispatched it with minimal fuss and the long jug back to red walls began, tiring for someone who's only trained for trying hard over a max of 10 meters. The real treat was that Caff pottered up Anarchist in his trainers dragging a rope, and therefore I got to experience red wall for the first time ( I know, I've a lot of non quarry experience to catch up on..) By Light house and sunset, up an amazingly enjoyable, interesting and a little adventurous route.
Yes I need to get out more, and I think I will.
happy place